
(lass 
Book 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT 



CAMP LIFE 



IN 



FL O E I D A ; 



A HANDBOOK 

FOR 

SPORTSMEN AND SETTLERS. 



COMPILED BY 

CHARLES HALLOCK, 

Author of "The Fishing Tourist." 



^ OF CO^?Q^ 






PUBLISHED BY 

FOREST AND STREAM PUBLISHING COMPANY. 

AMERICAN NEWS COMPANY, AGENTS. 

1876. 



COPYRIGHT, 1875, by CHARLES HALLOCK. 



Electrotyped by Smith & McDougal, 82 Beekman Street, New York. 






I^JSCR^IBED 



TO THE FR.IENDS op 



mcOD;% 




CONTENTS. 



PAGE 

Prefatory 7 

I. —Birds-eye Gla>:ce at Florida 16 

II. — Outfit for Sportsmen 26 

III.— Hints for Southern Hunting 30 

IV, — Coastwise Routes of Travel 35 

v.— Game Animals and Blrds of Florida 41 

VI.— Game Fish of Florida 50 

VII.— Three Months in Florida for One Hundred 

Dollars 67 

VIII. — Supplementary Hints for Cheap Recreation. . . 85 

IX. — Up the St. Johns Ri\t:r 92 

X. — Indian River 102 

XL— Florida the Promised Land 107 

XII.— Fort Capron 113 

XIII.— Fishing at St. Augustine 118 

XIV.— Black Bass Fishing on Spruce Creek 123 

XV.— Hunting the Panther 127 

XVI.— The Environs of Tallahassee 135 

XVII. — Private Dougherty and the Bass 140 

XVIII.— Pet Birds op St. Augustine 145 

XIX. — Steam Yachting on the St. Johns 151 

XX. — Among the Seminoles 179 



vi CONTENTS. 

PAGE 

XXI.— In the Cypress Swamps li)-i 

XXII.— Gruis:Imq along Suoue 201 

XXllI.— Shooting AT Salt Lake 217 

XXIV. — The OKEEcnoBEE Expedition 224 

XXV.— Florida Travel 213 

XXVI.— IIomosassa-Tallaeiassee 259 

XXVIL— South West Florida 2G4 

1, — Fernandina to Cedar Keys 2G4 

2. — Manatee Sarasota and Gasparilla 209 

3. — Among the Keys 277 

4. — ^Meteorology 284 

5. — Punta Rassa and CaloosaLatcliie 291 

G. — Up tlie Caloosaliatcliie River 296 

7.— Visit to Okeechobee 305 

8. — Indian Mounds and Canals 312 

9.— Tampa 321 

10. — Subterranean Streams 328 

11. — A Sportsman's Paradise 334 

12. — Suggestions to Tourists 343 




CAMP LIFE IN FLORIDA. 



PKEFATORY. 

THIS Yolume is a compilation Irom the columns of 
the sportsmen's journal known as the "Forest 
and Stream." It is, in great part, the outcome of two 
special commissions sent hy the publishers of that paper 
to explore southern and south-western Florida — one 
of them to Lake Okeechobee, in the winter of 1873-74, 
and the other, in the winter and spring of 1874-'75, to 
the section layed by the waters of the Gulf of Mexico. 
To some of its readers it will therefore appear at second- 
hand ; but republication is justified and extenuated by 
the fact that it has been pressed by repeated solicitations 
of gentlemen who appreciate the yalue of the informa- 
tion its chapters contain. So little is known of the 
Florida Peninsula, and so very meagre are the written 
accounts of its geography and resources, that the citizens 
of Florida have, privately and through the press and 
public meetings, acknowledged to the editor his substan- 
tial service rendered to the State. Now, more than ever, 
IS attention being directed to the Land of Flowers. 
Winter visitors in vast numbers migrate thither as regu- 
larly as the birds of passage. Twenty thousand people 



8 PREFATORY. 

visited St. Augustine last winter, and will be multiplied 
in tlie next. The hotel accommodations there have been 
trebled within five years, and are still increasing. Not 
only at Jacksonville, Green Cove Springs, and other 
favorite resorts on the St. Johns river, but also on the 
eastern seaboard and the south-west coast, hotels are 
being erected for use in the approaching season. New 
steamers have been added.to the St. Johns river lines, 
and increased facilities opened for communication with 
the North. Agricultural resources have been developed 
beyond expectation. Lands have been opened that are 
richly adapted to the cultivation of the orange, banana, 
guava, and pineapple, while the early northern markets 
for green peas, cucumbers, strawberries, tomatoes, and 
melons, oiler pecuniary temptations to gardeners that 
cannot be overlooked. Agricultural and emigration 
societies have been established, and newspapers devoted 
to the economic interests of the State. Land for well- 
located farms has appreciated five times its value in three 
years, and real estate has advanced to fancy jDrices at the 
principal watering-places. Northern merchants have 
built princely residences there ; considerable settlements 
have been made at numerous points on the coast and in 
the interior ; and old familiar places are no longer recog- 
nized, such changes have a few years wrought. Even 
that old travesty on railroads, the wooden line from 
Tocoi to St. Augustine, has given place to iron rails, 
quick transit, and comfortable passenger coaches. In- 
valids throng its health-giving atmosphere and healing 
springs. Sportsmen find rich returns in sections that 
are alive with game, and which, only two years ago, were 
unknown and inaccessible. There is no place on this 
continent like Florida, for both game and fish. 



PREFATORY. 9 

Among other modern improvements, a railroad is 
projected, to connect Lake Harris with the St. Johns 
river, at Hawkinsville on Lake George. The lands on 
Lake Harris are among the best in East Florida. The 
scenery is unusually beautiful and attractive. Frost 
seldom, if ever, injures the sugar-cane ; it tassels, and 
grows from fifteen to twenty feet in height. Lake Har- 
ris connects with Lakes Griffin and Huestis. The 
timber around the lakes is tall and stately. Fine fish in 
abundance abound in their waters. This section is 
healthy, and is rapidly filling up with ncAv settlers, and 
will in a few years become one of the most interesting 
settlements in this country. These settlers find much 
profit in the culture and sale of fruits and vegetables for 
the early northern markets. Even in the interior of the" 
State, notably at Lake City, many of the citizens are 
speaking of giving up the cultivation of cotton, and turn- 
ing their attention to English peas and other vegetables 
for shipment to northern markets. Several intend try- 
ing tobacco, and, if successful, it will soon become a 
leading production. Eighteen years ago, with the 
exception of Welaka, scarcely anything was to be seen 
but the interminable forests along the St. Johns river. 
There Avas scarcely a settlement or clearing to mark the 
advance of civilization. What a change noAv ai:)pears ! 
landings, clearings, houses, and orange groA-es map out 
to the eye of the traA^eller the rapid improvement noAV 
goins: on. 

With regard to orange culture, the " Rural Caroli- 
nian " says that trees can be had at some wild groves for 
the getting. At others, ten to tAventy-fiA'e cents each 
is the price. An ordinary sail-boat will carry thirty to 
seventy-five trees, averaging two inches in diameter, and 



10 PREFATORY. 

a round trip of twenty to forty miles can be made with 
a load in tlircc or four days. If judiciously taken up, 
carefully handled, and properly planted, from January 
until March, and the sweet bud put in in May or June, 
they will grow three or four feet the same year, and 
sometimes will bear the next. Nearly all will bear the 
third year, with proper attention, and the fifth will 
reimburse all expenses. From the present stand-point, 
looking through the experience of others, and taking 
success as a guide and error as a warning, a straighter 
and shorter path (fast becoming a plain, well-beaten 
highway) can be taken to success. Sweet seedlings, 
from three to five years old, cost twenty-five cents to 
one dollar each, according to age and size. They are 
hardy, rapid growers, and usually bear the seventh year. 
The effect of budding or grafting is the same on them 
as the sour tree. Field crops are usually made three or 
four years, widening each year the space between the 
rows and trees. The past has presented no difficulty 
in the way of orange culture, which energy and good 
judgment will not overcome. 

One of the most useful improvements contemplated, 
is the canal now being laid out by the United States 
Coast Survey, across the narrow strip of dividing lands 
between the Indian river proper and Mosquito lagoon, 
where the present canal has been cut. This strip of 
land is coquina rock, soft, and very easy to excavate, 
about ten feet above the water, and only eight hundred 
yards wide from this canal north to the head of naviga- 
ble waters. On the Tomoko the channel is open and 
clear. The distance is about seventy-five miles. From 
thence across the land to navigable waters of Haws* 
creek, the distance cannot exceed ten miles, and the 



PREFATORY. 11 

average height above the water level of both streams 
cannot be over six feet. No dams or locks will be 
required ; there will always be water enough. In fact, 
these two canals will make Indian river a tributary to 
the St. Jolms one hundred times more valuable than 
the whole ujiper St. Johns. This scheme, the Palatka 
*^ Herald" says, is receiving the gravest attention of the 
most practical men. 

There seems no doubt that the population and de- 
veloped resources of Florida are destined to double in 
ten years. Those who have some prescience will do well 
now to take time by the forelock, that they may reap 
coming advantages. 

Very little of value to the sjoortsman, the yachtsman, 
or the intending settler, remains unsaid in this book re- 
garding these abundant resources, or the lines of inter- 
nal communication. The game and fish are here scien- 
tifically classified ; the routes of travel, coastwise and 
internal, are accurately outlined ; ample instructions are 
given to the sportsman and tourist ; the capabilities and 
profits of the soil, with eligible localities for settlement, 
sojourn, health, or pleasure, are indicated to those who 
desire to become j)ermanent or temporary residents. 
In its entirety the volume is just what has been long 
wanted and much asked for ; and therefore the editor 
offers no apology for the manner in which its material 
has been appropriated and collated. Those who have 
contributed to its contents will be recognized as well 
qualified and reliable. 

It may be literally asserted that the southern portion 
of the peninsula of Florida has never been settled. 
Ancient as was the old Spanish tenure, and obstinately 
contested as was the possession of its territory for two 



12 PREFATORY. 

centuries and a half^ the population at no one period 
was ever considerable, while the feeble settlements were 
widely scattered and confined to eligible points upon 
the lower St. John and the seaboard. The interior was 
occupied by the Seminole Indians, and the negroes 
whom they held as slaves, while the innermost jungles 
Avherein they dwelt were almost impenetrable, as events 
proved, even to the well-appointed armies of the United 
States, which, forty years ago, were delegated to hunt 
them out. When, finally, the great body of the Indians 
were induced to migrate to the West, some spirit of 
curiosity or adventure, or hope incited by vague state- 
ments of the fertility, fecundity, and tropical luxuri- 
ance of the interior, prompted a few to attempt settle- 
ments there ; but their advance was invariably barred 
by a cordon of swam.p, lagoon, and jungle, that swarmed 
with repulsive reptiles and noxious insects, making 
occupation not only unbearable, but dangerous. Never- 
theless, the desire that by nature becomes insatiate when 
unsatisfied, the incentive to explore where mysteries 
hide, has been burning continually, and attempts have 
been periodically repeated to explore the unknown pen- 
etralia. Occasionally some survivor of the Seminole 
war would recall for eager listeners some shadowy 
reminiscences of a great interior lake, beside whose 
limpid shores military outposts were planted after assid- 
uous toil through the morass that intervened, and dilate 
upon the luxuriant farms that were found where the Red 
men once inhabited.* Tliese statements gave color to 
traditional rumors, and stimulated the desire of those 

* Lake Okeechobee was frequently visited by officers of the 
regular army engaged in the several campaigns against the Semi- 
noles in that eection. The gallant Captain Grelaud, of the Fourth 



PREFATORY. 13 

who came, to regard the Everglades and Okeechobee as 
a forbidden Eden, which none might enter except by the 
sesame of some secret portal. The evidences that some 
undiscovered route existed, by which the lake could be, 
and had been, reached in earlier times, at last became so 
indubitable as to determine the publishers of '^ Forest 
and Stream " to fit out an exploring expedition with all 
the appliances necessary to success. Volunteers were in 
readiness, and the expedition started about December 1, 
1873. It was headed by Mr. F. A. Ober, a young natu- 
ralist of Massachusetts, possessing all those qualifications 
indispensable to the accomplishment of its object which 
are so rarely found in combination, yiz. , physical tough- 
ness and endurance, pluck, push, dogged perseverance, 
a thorough knowledge of woodcraft in general and of so 
much of this portion of Florida as he had acquired by 
previous visits, skill with the canoe, the rod, and the 
rifle, and an intelligent acquaintance with drawing, pho- 
tography, and natural history. To this valuable stock in 
trade he added an outfit complete in all its requirements 
of boats, implements, guides, photographic instruments, 
etc. He was absent four months, and the successful 
result is shown in the chapters that follow over the signa- 
ture of *' Fred Beverly." Only those who have engaged 
in similar service can appreciate the difficulties that beset 
his endeavor. More than twenty miles- of the journey 
was accomplished by wading and pushing their boat by 
hand through swamps swarming with alligators, and 
infested with poisonous snakes and all kinds of creeping, 
stinging, and flying vermin. Mud, water, and heat 
made the transit most fatiguing, trailing vines that con- 
Artillery, once a professor at the United States Military Academy 
at West Point, now lies buried upon its banks. 



14 PREFATORY. 

stantly barred their progress had to be cleared away, and 
whenever they found a bit of terra firma solid enougli 
to camp on, it was scarcely more tlian six inches above 
the surrounding mire. 

Of Lake Okeechobee itself few praises can be sung. 
It is a vast lagoon, surrounded by marshes, with shores 
scarcely above its level in any place. Writers who pre- 
tended to have visited it, invested it with a romance 
that was very far from the realization. It was repre- 
sented to be studded with islands, and flanked with bold, 
rocky shores, and forests of mahogany, palmetto, and 
fragrant magnolia ; and ruins were found on the islands, 
and strange creatures inhabited the earth, air, and water. 
These, however, are as mythical as was the original fact 
of its supposed existence. 

The second expedition occupied the winter of 1874 
and the spring of 1875. It covered the whole of south- 
western Florida, a section but little known beyond its 
limits, but which is proven to be one of the choicest of 
the delectable lands of the State. It Avas under the 
charge of Dr. Charles J. Ken worthy, an old campaigner 
in many foreign countries, but now a resident of Jack- 
sonville, Florida, whose efforts were heartily seconded 
and essentially expedited by the officers of the various 
lines of coastwise and interior communication, who fur- 
nished him with free passes and transportation for his 
boat and outfit, whenever asked for, throughout the 
field of exploration. The telegraph companies also 
rendered their services when needed, and at Punta Rassa 
even provided store room for his boat and implements, 
the narrative whereof is written over the signatui-^ of 
*'A1 Fresco." 

In other chapters the charms of the St. Johns river 



PREFATORY. 15 

life are unfolded by Com. L. A. Beardslee, United 
States Navy, and L. W. Ledyard, Esq. , in a way to make 
tliem the most attractive and enjoyable ; there are a few 
miscellaneous sketches by General Jordan, Major H. W. 
Merrill, and Captain Aug. E. Egbert, United States 
Army, and Asa Wall, Esq., of Virginia ; while the contri- 
butions to Natural History by those well-known students, 
S. C. Clarke, C. J. Maynard, and George A. Boardman, 
have a special value to the student and scientist. The 
book will certainly not fail of the appreciation it deserves. 

Chas. Hallock, Editor. 



BIED'S-EYE GLANCE AT FLOEIDA. 

IT is a singular fact that for a part of the year at least 
three-fourths of Florida is under water. After such 
an introduction my readers will perhaps tliink that I 
have chosen a very unattractive subject, for they can 
scarcely see what there is that can possibly be interesting 
in sivamj)s, even though they are vast, and teeming with 
an exuberant growth of vegetation, or in sluggish rivers, 
if they do abound in all classes of animal life. Had I 
nothing to write about, however, excepting the sub- 
merged sections, I trust I could find something even 
there which would interest and perhaps instruct my 
readers. But it must be remembered that the State of 
which I am speaking contains nearly as much land as is 
occupied by New England, and that notwithstanding 
three-fourths of it is under water, the number of square 
miles which ai-e never flooded considerably exceed the 
area of Massachusetts. This country has also considera- 
ble value, and the United States was aAvare of this fact, 
for in 1819 $15,000,000 were paid to Spain for relin- 
quishing her claims. Although the Government has 
doubtless committed many errors, this purchase cannot 
be considered as one of them. For, aside from the 
question of the protection afforded to our southern bor- 
ders, this peninsula is certainly a desirable acquisition 
to tlie Union. 



bird's-eye gla:n^ce at Florida. 17 

The water which covers so much of Florida is both 
detrimental and beneficial to the inhabitants. Much 
arable land is rendered worthless from this cause, but it 
is by means of the numerous riyers and baj^ous that the 
settlers gain ready access to the interior. The St. Johns 
is the largest river in the State, and forms the principal 
thoroughfare to the numej'ous little towns which are 
situated on its banks. As the region through which 
this river flows contains as many inhabitants as any 
other portion of the State, I will endeavor to convey 
some idea of this section by describing what I have seen 
while making several trijDS up this stream. I say up, 
but as the St. Johns rises nearly two hundred miles 
south of its outlet, this term will perhaps give an errone- 
ous idea, for this is the only river in the United States 
that flows directly north, and as the peninsula lies north 
and south, this stream runs parallel with the coast as far 
as Jacksonville ; then turning directly ^ast flows into the 
Atlantic ocean, within twenty-five miles of the northern 
boundary of the State, thus traversing in its course 
nearly two-thirds of the entire length of Florida. 

Jacksonville is the largest city in the State, and 
although of recent growth compared with other towns, 
contains about 10,000 inhabitants, and is the centre of 
trade. Several lines of small river steamers form the 
means of communication with the interior. 

I found myself on one of these little steamers early 
one December morning, gliding over the sun-lit waters. 
The river for about a hundred miles is very wide, being 
a succession of lakes, on which account the Indians 
named the stream " Welaka," which in their language 
signifies the river of lakes. These lakes vary from two 
to ten miles in width, and as tlie boat kept in the mid- 



18 bird's-eye GLAXCE at FLORIDA. 

die, we could see but little of the shores, excepting when 
we called at various towns. The small size of these vil- 
lages surprised me much, for I had long been familiar 
with their names on the maps, and although some of 
them have been settled for about three hundred years, 
at tlie time of my JSrst visit, in 18G8, they contained but 
three or four houses. Of course, in the days when the 
Si^aniards occupied Florida these places were much 
larger, being important military posts, and formed the 
homes of many inhabitants. They have deteriorated 
much* since, but are now growing slowly ; how slowly 
may be seen by the fact that after an absence of four 
years I again visited this section and found that some 
villages had added only one or two houses to their num- 
ber, while others remained as I had previously seen 
them. I have used the term houses in speaking of the 
inhabited structures along the upper St. Johns, but 
shanties would perhaps convey a better idea of their 
appearance. It will be a source of much wonder why 
the steamers touched at such places, but it must be 
understood that they are with a few exceptions represen- 
tatives of the towns in East Florida, and contained post- 
offices. We stopped then to leave the mail, and fre- 
quently to take on wood, or occasionally found a passen- 
ger waiting. And odd passengers they were too, many 
of them genuine Florida ^' crackers." 

At a wooding-up station where there was but one 
dwelling, a queer looking specimen of humanity came 
on board in the shape of a long, lank individual, clad in 
homespun. In one hand he carried an old-fasliioned 
rifle, and with the other led a fine looking horse, upon 
which was strapped a large saddle, with a saddle-bag 
and an axe-handle hanging on either side. This singular 



bird's-eye GLA>'CE at FLORIDA. 19 

being had a powder-horn suspended from his brawny 
neck, and his matted black hair hung down to his shoul- 
ders, while his unkempt beard reached nearly to his 
waist. A pair of sinister eyes looked out from under 
the shaggy brows, which were shaded by a slouched hat. 
He was evidently a hunter by profession. At one of 
these stopping places we dropped a little dried-up man, 
whose countenance indicated an uncertain age. He 
might have been twenty or even fifty, for he was evi- 
dently one of the Eip Van Winkle type of men who can 
lie down and sleep an age or two in the wilderness with- 
out trouble. From this sleep they will arise half awake, 
and again jolod through the world, no more or less 
musty-looking or dried up than before. Snch men, 
even while in infancy, have scarcely enough flesh to 
cover their bones. As they grow older this little ex- 
imnds, until a certain age, when it hardens ; then old 
Time may shake his glass over their heads without pro- 
ducing the slightest effect, or hack at them with his 
rusty scythe in vain — they look not an hour older. 
Such was the bodily appearance of the man whom we 
dropped at this place. He was clad in a very dirty 
suit of homespun cotton cloth, while a satchel of the 
same material hung at his side. His not very prepos- 
sessing face was shaded by an old palmetto hat, from 
beneath which his long flaxen hair hung in tangled 
skeins. His stockingless feet, thrust into a pair of 
broad-soled shoes, proclaimed him a cracker of the lowest 
class. 

The steamers move slowly against the current, so 
that in twenty-four hours we had accomplished but one 
hundred miles of our journey, and on the following 
morning we were crossing Lake George. This is a very 



JiO bird's-eye glance at FLORIDA. 

large expanse of water, about ten miles in diameter. 
At the southern extremity the river suddenly narrows, 
so that it is but a few rods across. Here the scenery 
changes entirely. The stately live-oaks and pines of the 
more northern St. Johns give place to the troj^ical-look- 
ing palmetto and the graccf ul-foliagcd sweet bay. Vege- 
tation is also much moi'c advanced, and as the steamer 
almost brushed against the luxuriant foliage, we could 
catch the odors of thousands of flowering shrubs grow- 
ing in the dense forest which lay on either side. It was 
indeed a scene of surpassing loveliness, to which I can 
scarcely do justice. One must stand, as I stood that 
morning, with every sense rapt in profound admiration 
of the beautiful panorama that was passing before the 
eyes, and with the south wind, laden vv^ith those delight- 
ful odors, blowing gently across the face, to thoroughly 
appreciate it. For every turn of the now winding river 
disclosed new beauties for enjoyment. 

At first the brain is confused with the multiplicity 
of objects that are presented to the gaze. Gradually, 
however, the eye becomes accustomed to the mass of 
green, and selects objects of greater interest from the 
whole. From the exuberant growth of creepers and 
shrubs which line the water's edge, the attention is 
drawn to the gray, straight trunks of the palmettos, 
with their stiff fan-like fronds. The dark green of 
these is relieved by the paler foliage of the sweet gum, 
while high over all hang the giant branches of the lofty 
black walnuts drooped with festoons of Spanish moss. 
Large bunches of the emblematic mistletoe are brought 
out in strong relief against the blue sky, with tlieir 
bright green colors heightened by their more sombre 
surroundings. An occasional group of the gloomy 



bird's-eye glance at FLORIDA. 21 

cypress might be seen among this sea of living green, 
raising their dark trunks covered with leafless branches 
from the swampy ground. As we passed onward our 
attention was attracted by numerous orange groves, 
which were growing upon shell mounds, with the golden 
fruit relieved by the dark green and shining leaves. 
This scene was rendered intensely interesting by the 
multitude of birds which swarmed on all sides. Numer- 
ous ducks and gallinules swam among the aquatic j^lants 
on the river's margin. At one point we saw a group of 
red and black-headed vultures feeding upon the carcass 
of some animal. Large numbers of wood ducks started 
up everywhere, flying but a short distance, then tamely 
settling down again. Among all this apparently peace- 
ful life the gTeat law of nature, which ordains that her 
subjects shall live by preying upon one another, was in 
full force. At every few rods along the river was 
perched a hawk. They sat silent and apathetic, but 
were only waiting for the coots and ducks to finish their 
morning meal of aquatic life before seizing the plumpest 
of them for breakfast. High overhead the osprey was 
sailing with motionless wings, in huge circles, gazing 
with eager eyes upon the fishes below. The ever-watch- 
ful bald eagle was perched upon the lofty black walnuts 
or cypresses, intent ui)on the motions of the fish-hawk. 
This magnificent scenery, in which is mingled so much 
of life and animation, must attract the attention and 
call forth the admiration of tlie most casual observer. 
What, then, must be the sensations of the earnest stu- 
dent of nature ? Words fail to express the intense 
ecstasy that he feels as object after object presents itself 
to his bewildered gaze. The brain is completely over- 
whelmed, and can simply grasp the mingled mass as it 



22 bird's-eye glance at Florida. 

is seen, and in calmer moments arrange each in its 
proper place. 

Tlie sun had now reached a considerable height, and 
was shining hotly on the water. The captain of the 
steamer informed us that we might as well be on the 
look-out for alligators. About a dozen among the pas- 
sengers produced rifles or shot-guns, and we took our 
stations on the upper deck. As we stood near the 
wheel-house an old negro, who was steering, exclaimed, 
*' See, dar's one ! " at the same time pointing toward a 
large object. His words were followed by tlie sharp 
crack of half a dozen rifles, and as many voices excitedly 
shouted, ^'I have killed him." But the loud laugh 
from some of the experienced hunters, and a broad grin 
on the black face of the pilot, told these amateurs that 
they had been sold. Their bullets had merely set free 
the gases contained in the carcass of a dead alligator. 

A short distance beyond this point we saw a flock of 
about twenty wild turkeys on the river bank. They 
were beneath some orange trees, and were very tame. 
As we came in sight of them there was a simultaneous 
discharge of fire-arms ; but in the excitement of the 
moment it was entirely without effect. The turkeys 
scattered right and left, and were soon lost in the thick 
underbrush. Soon after this the alligators became quite 
numerous, and the deck of the steamer presented an 
animated scene, resounding with the sharp crack of 
rifles. The hideous reptiles were in all positions ; some 
were sleeping on the banks, others half in the water, and 
some were swimming swiftly about with only their ugly 
snouts and repulsive-looking eyes visible. Sometimes 
one would roll over in his death agony, after receiving a 
single shot. Then the attention of the whole party 



BIED'S-EYE GLAI^CE AT FLORIDA. 23 

would be turned to one individual, and lie would escape 
beneath the water, pierced with a dozen balls. They 
would die in all positions ; some would turn over upon 
their backs, but oftener they would lie as they had been 
shot. The most fatal place for a ball to strike appeared 
to be in the head. The report that a rifle bullet will 
glance from the back of an alligator is entirely un- 
founded, I have seen them shot in every part of the 
body, and have yet to meet with a single instance of the 
kind. The ball always penetrates easily if thrown with 
ordinary force. Many of these reptiles are destroyed by 
the passengers of every steamboat which passes up and 
'clown the river, yet their numbers are scarcely dimin- 
ished. The alligator grows to a large size, some measur- 
ing seventeen feet in length. The large ones are quite 
dangerous, but a closely allied species — the cayman, of 
South America, which is occasionally found in Florida 
— is particularly noticable for its fierceness. I have met 
with it but once. 

Three of us were crossing the country which lies 
between Lake Harney and Indian river, on foot, when 
we came to a dense swamp. As we were passing 
through it we discovered a huge reptile, which resem- 
bled an alligator, lying in a stream just to the right of 
our path. He was apparently asleep. We approached 
cautiously within ten rods of him and fired two rifle 
shots in quick succession. The balls took effect just 
before his fore leg, and striking Tvithin two inches of 
each other, passed entirely through his body. As soon 
as he felt the wounds he struggled violently, twisting 
and writhing, but finally became quiet. We waded in 
and approached him, as he lay on a bed of green aquatic 



24 bird's-eye glance at Florida. 

pliints with his liead toward us. It was resting on the 
mud, and one of tlie party was about to place his foot 
upon it, when a lively look in the aninuirs eyes deterred 
him. Stooping down, he picked up a floating branch 
and lightly threw it in the reptile's face. The result 
was somewhat surprising. The huge jaws opened 
instantly, and the formidable tail came round sweeping 
the branch into his mouth, where it was crushed and 
ground to atoms by the rows of sharp teeth. His eyes 
flashed fire and he rapidly glided forward. Never did 
magician of Arabian tale conjure up a fiercer looking 
demon by wave of his wand, than had been raised to lif^ 
by a motion of the branch. For a moment we were too 
astonished to move. The huge monster seemed bent on 
revenge, and in another instant would be upon us. We 
then saw our danger, and quicker tlum a flash of light,* 
thought and action came. The next moment the gigan- 
tic saurian was made to struggle on his back, with a 
bullet in his brain. It had entered his right eye, and 
had been aimed so nicely as not to cut the lids. To 
make sure of him this time we severed his jugular vein. 
While performing this not very delicate operation, he 
thrust out two singular-looking glands from slits in his 
throat. They were round and resembled a sea-urchin, 
being covered with minute projections. They were 
about the size of a nutmeg, and gave out a strong musky 
odor. We then took his dimensions, and found that he 
was over ten feet in length, while his body was larger 
round than a flour barrel. The immense jaws were 
three feet long, and when stretched open, would readily 
take in the body of a man. They were armed with rows 
of sharp white teeth. The tusks of the lower one, when 



bird's-eye glance at FLORIDA. 25 

it was closed, projected out through two holes in the 
upper, which fact proved to us that it was not a com- 
mon alligator, but a true crocodile {Crocodilus acurus). 
This is the second instance on record of the capture of 
this reptile in the United States. 

C. J. MAYlf AED. 



11. 

OUTFIT FOE SPOETSMEN. 

IN preparing for a winter's campaign in Florida, one 
should take with him, if practicable, a tent and 
small boat. If they can be shipped by sailing vessel two 
weeks in advance of his sailing, tliey will reach Jack- 
sonville in season for use, and at little cost. If sent by 
steamer the charge for freight will be enormous. A shot 
gun, rifle, ammunition, and lishing tackle should be 
taken from the North. The tent should be as light as 
possible, and so constructed that all the room can be 
utilized. The Ijoat should be small, flat-bottomed and 
light. A large sail boat can be hired in Jacksonville at 
a reasonable price, and a man to sail it and do the cook- 
ing. Gun and rifle should be breech-loading, thus 
securing safety and despatch in loading. Eevolvers may 
be useful. Big bowie knives are superfluities. Every- 
body takes them, and everybody finds them in the way. 
Wear old clothes ; half the pleasure in camping out is 
to be able to rough it. Don't put on fancy costumes 
expecting to " make a spread," as no one will appreciate 
the effort or effect. Wear woollen clothing at all times. 
For the feet, take good stout shoes, lacing up tightly 
about the ankle. A pair of tight (not tight fitting) 
boots, may be very good for a short, wet walk, but for 
an all-day's tramp, through swamp and pine-woods. 



OUTFIT FOR SPORTSMEN". 27 

shoes are far superior. Two pairs good woollen, and one 
rubber blanket. A mosquito bar is indispensable, as 
many nights the tormenting insects call their own. If 
the country on the coast be yisited, the " bar " should 
be made of thin cotton or lawn, to keep out the " sand- 
flies," insects so small as hardly to be discernible, but 
with a bite like the burn of a hot iron. It would be 
well to take a little salve and thin plaster for cuts and 
bruises. In the line of medicine, one can take a whole 
apothecary's shop, if so disposed, but, excepting a little 
whiskey and. quinine, the former for snake-bites, which 
seldom occur, and the latter for imaginary fever, no med- 
icine will be needed, except for particularly squeamish 
folks who think life not w^orth the living out of sight 
of an *'E," or quack-doctor's laboratory. For light at 
night, a lantern and candles will be sufficient, though ker- 
osene, where little transportation is to be made, is pref- 
erable. Buy it in New York in five-gallon can, boxed. 
It will ahvays sell for twice its cost. The keen, bracing 
air gives more pungency to a haunch of venison or brace 
of quail than all the sauces-piquante ever concocted. A 
bunch of Spanish moss is infinitely superior to a napkin, 
and the clear w^aters of some spring to the finger-bowl. 
And here a word as to w^ater. 

Nearly all the w^ater in East Florida is impregnated 
more or less with lime, or some mineral or salt that gives 
it a "flat" taste to the uninitiated, and a drink of raw 
unadulterated water is not always acceptable. Some 
people " qualify " it — indeed the majority of settlei"^ 
'^ qualify " it so much that the original taste of the aqua 
is lost in that of the qualifier. That is all — a word to 
the wise. We advise a plain mode of living. Take hard- 
bread, " self-raising flour," pork, salt, potatoes, brown 



28 OUTFIT FOR SPORTSMEN". 

sugar, rice or hominy, Borden's condensed milk, and 
coffee, a little jelly for venison, butter, pepper, and 
mustard. Venison, lish, and game birds may be on the 
bill of fare every day, but again they may not. No one 
should start down the river depending upon a supply, as 
the game is regulated and controlled by a multitude of 
laws that the visitor knows nothing about. Preserved 
fruits, meats, etc., are not necessary, though sometimes 
found acceptable — they don't stay in camp long. Re- 
garding cooking utensils, if cooking is to be done in the 
usual way over an open fire, they should be a " bake 
kettle " or oven, a foot in diameter ; frying-pan, same 
dimensions, with a long handle ; tin plate, plated knives 
and forks, pint tin-cups, iron or tin spoons, and butcher 
knife. A regular camp kit is preferable, however.* 
If a stove is preferred, go to the tin-smith's and have 
him make a sheet-iron box, two feet long, one broad, 
open at one end. The door a sheet of iron, to slide in a 
groove, perpendicularly, acting as a draught regulator. 
The legs should be flat, fastened to the box by hinges, 
shutting under it when i)acked. The pipe small, and in 
joints, to be packed in the stove. A piece of tin should 
be taken to fasten to the tent to run the pipe through. 
With a such stove, well suj)plied with '' light wood " or 
])itch pine, a fire can be sustained that will vacate the tent 
in short metre. If the camper-out prefers to embark 
upon one of the many steamers that navigate the St. 

* H. L. Dancklee of Boston, manufactures a very complete 
camp stove and kit, which ])ack8 into a small space and is quite 
portable. Lalance & Grosjean, of Beekman street, New York, 
puj)ply a very desirable kit also. A camp-kettle made by a firm 
in Marquette, Michigan, is much used by the lumbermen, and la 
regarded as an acquisition to a sportsman's outfit. 



OUTFIT FOR ^PORTSMEiq'. 29 

John's, he can reach any point available in East Florida. 
To assist him, a list of prices will be given to the differ- 
ent places on the river, as they are reached in a sail 
down the stream. The steamers City Point, Dictator, 
Nick King, and Lizzie Baker make the trips to Pilatka 
seventy-five miles from Jacksonville), upon arrival from 
Savannah and Charleston. The Florence, a fine steamer ; 
makes daily trips to Pilatka. The Darlington, Hattie, 
and Starlight, to Enterprise, two hundred miles, twice 
a week, each. The Ocklawaha and Silver Springs to 
Lake Harney and Salt Lake, one week. 



m. 

HINTS FOR SOUTHERN HUNTING. 

THE Gulf States, with woodljind in unlimited areas, 
with broad rivers of fresh water and estuaries 
witliout end, with open sea beaches and rocky coral 
harbors, invite Northern hunters ; and if perchance he 
meets the Southrons in their homes, or at their camps, 
a new and congenial companionshij") is assured, that 
once enjoyed will not fade from memory, for Southern 
welcomes are as broad as Southern fields, and as full of 
sunshine. 

In going far from home there is usually an inclination 
to carry many articles of impedimenta that are found 
not to repay the annoyance of their care. "We will not 
counsel those who would go with much ^^ duffel," as the 
guides term luggage : they will suit their own abundant 
fancy ; nor will we hint to the luxurious yachtsman how 
to store his lockers with dainties, although pleasant 
memories recall the way it has been bountifully done, 
but will venture on a few simple suggestions that may 
be of some value to persons going South. 

First and foremost, as to guns : For all but boat 
shooting, guns to be used under the hot sun that, even 
in winter, falls on the Southern fields with a fierce heat, 
should be light, and not of too large bore, to economize 
weight of ammunition. A rifie should be short, and 
one chosen that will in opening be free from long levers 



HI:N-TS for SOUTHERiq- HUNTIN"G. 31 

that may catch in bridle reins, will avoid annoyance. For 
alligators, the Mead explosive ball is unequalled, and its 
use increases very materially the chances of so shocking 
and stunning those tenacious animals, as to recover 
them at once. As they lie on logs, and on slimy banks, 
they usually retain life enough to wriggle into the water, 
when they sink ; but we have shot them with the Mead 
bullet, and have seen them dash out upon the land, and 
be unable to get any command of their movements. All 
the talk of a ball glancing harmlessly from their scales 
may have been true years ago, but the modern rifle 
carries its missiles through the scales and skull, and 
penetrates any 23art of the animal, even at a long range. 
For all but ^^'gaitor," the shot gun is the convenient 
arm. Deer are usually '^jumped" and shot bounding 
through the large leaves of the low palmetto, and at all 
times one load of fine shot is needed for quail, snipe, and 
plumaged birds, that are constantly fluttering up. 

Wild turkeys are hard to kill, but often an expert 
caller will bring them so near that missing is needless, 
and the use of a wire cartridge of large shot in one barrel 
will do all that can be done to insure success in getting 
this superb bird, which is a far finer trophy, and more 
difficult to obtain than any that tempts the sportsman 
from his camp while the day has not dawned. The 
hen turkey should never be shot (she can be readily 
distinguished by her color), as the broods will at once 
disperse and thus deprive the sportsman of his pastime. 
Quail should not be shot after the 1st of March. 

No dainty split bamboo rods, nor leaders of tinted 
gut need be carried south of the mountains of Carolina ; 
for the trout, grayling, and salmo solar live not in the 
streams that bear away the washings from rich mellow 



32 HINTS FOR SOUTHERN HUNTING. 

bottom lands. The trout of these rivers is a black bass, 
and when gar-fish, cat-fish and other heavy-mouthed 
fellows try physical force with the angler, artful devices 
are not called for ; but one or two stiff boat rods, all 
the better if in pairs with all the joints interchangeable, 
and some large lines, gimp and wire-mounted hooks, 
strong spoons, a gaff and one or two spears for torch 
fishing, and some ponderous sinkers for tide-ways, will 
fit the fisherman for all ordinary work. If he wishes a 
new sensation, it may be obtained at the end of a half- 
inch rope, with shark hook and chain, but beware of 
any coil about the legs, and get up anchor for a tow 
seaward, if a large shark or swordfish accepts the 
challenge; 

About Anastasia Island, St. Augustine, the Minor- 
cans capture huge swordfish and sharks by fastening 
the rope to a post, and carrying the hook out in a boat, 
leave it, and retire to conduct their share of the conflict 
on terra firma. A boat is as needful in Florida as a 
horse on the plains. For short trips from the settle 
ments, notliing will be more convenient, and render the 
sportsman more independent, than a flat-bottomed boat, 
with small sail, centre board, and a water-tight end with 
tight trap to carry dry clothing, tea, sugar, etc., to 
protect from the frequent showers. Floating quietly 
with the current or tide, a patient hunter may surprise 
almost all the game birds and animals, and he will see 
more of interest in the little streams than in miles of 
the frequented channels. For exploration and travel a 
boat eighteen to twenty-two feet long, four and a-half 
or five feet beam, with the full width carried to the 
stern, built with a flat keel, and broad bearings to 
insure light draft, fitted with centre-board and sail, the 



HINTS FOR SOUTHERIT HUKTING. 33 

liitter on sliding topmast for compactness, will be found 
the best. When anchored, the bow will point to the 
wind. A tent, open aft, may be hung under the boom, 
spread with stretchers, and furled sail ; and with light 
boards a bed for three or four may be arranged, and 
cooking by spirit lamp be done at the wide stern. 
With such a boat, and two good negroes, boatmen 
(cooks they generally are), more interesting trips can be 
made than with a yacht, and more unfrequented points 
be reached. If cruising in the wide waters is intended, 
some considerable shear to the bow lines will make a 
drier and safer boat, and a canvas bow deck will do 
good service. Air cushions will be found very comfort- 
able, and in mishaps they are invaluable as life- 
preservers. 

One of H. L. Duncklee's stoves will fit out such a 
party, but a spirit lamp is very useful to heat water for 
a preventive punch, or for a bowl of soup from Liebig's 
extract of beef, and with it and an Old Dominion coffee 
pot, excellent hot coffee may be made, or Borden's Ex- 
tract will give it more simply. Often for miles no hard 
ground is to be found, and some heating apparatus is 
indispensable. No one should brave the night air of 
the everglades without warm and stimulating food and 
drinks, and a little quinine will do no harm. Light 
wines are of great service, and the water flowing from 
the swamps will not harmed by a " wee drop," and for 
the rattlesnake or moccasin bite that never comes, the 
same is needful. Prudent ones usually do not wait for 
a bite, but show unbounded confidence in preventive 
measures. 

For sleeping in camp, in this animated land of fleas, 
spiders, and the creeping things, so unfortunately taken 



34 UINTS FOR SOUTHERN HUXTING. 

into the ark, a Iiammock should be used ; one arranged 
(as it may easily be), with a light canvas roof, with sides 
of netting. Two or three rafter-shaped triangles hung 
on a line will -spread such a shelter, and in a canvas 
hammock under it, one can rest free from the compan- 
ionship of guides and dogs, and witliout vivid ideas of 
snakes and centipedes. Sportsmen are often disabled 
by the fiercest animal in Florida, the flea. High boots 
will be some defence, but keep away from the vicinity 
of domestic animals, and sleep not in any of the 
" cracker " houses, but camp in remote pine woods and 
keep the dogs away from the tent. Such forest is com- 
paratively free from mosquitoes, and in mid-winter the 
Band-flies are not very annoying. 

For minor details the hints common to all hunting 
will alford a general idea. 



IV. 



COASTWISE ROUTES OF TRAVEL. 

'TT'T'I^TER is approacliing, and numbers are un- 
VV doubtedly looking forward with pleasure to the 
period when they will leave Old Boreas in the rear, and 
bask in the health-promoting sunbeams of Florida ; and 
as the present seems an opportune time, I propose fur- 
nishing a few statements for the benefit of those who 
contemplate a visit to this State. 

As the south-west coast (the scene of my last winter's 
wanderings) presents an attractive field for the true 
sportsman, I shall refer to it in this communication. I 
fancied that my articles published in the "Forest and 
Stream" were sufficiently explanatory, but from the 
large number of letters I have received, I find that 
something more is necessary, and I shall endeavor to 
furnish the required information. 

Steamships leave Boston and Baltimore regularly for 
Savannah. Florida can also be reached by any of the 
various rail routes, and fares ean be ascertained by 
inquiring at any of the principal offices. Steamships 
leave New York for Charleston three times weekly, and 
from Philadelphia every Saturday, connecting with rail- 
road, and with the stanch, seaworthy, comfortable, and 
ably officered sea-going steamers, the Dictator and City 
Point. Fare from New York to Jacksonville, including 
state-room and meals, $27.50 ; excursion ticket, $50. 



86 COASTWISE ROUTES OF TRATEL. 

Steamships leave New York for Savannah three 
times weekly, connecting with the steamers Dictator, 
City Point, and Lizzie Baker. If travellers prefer it, 
they can reach Jacksonville from Savannah by the 
Atlantic and Gulf railroad. Coupons of excursion 
tickets will be received by the company. Travellers will 
find this road supplied with excellent Pullman cars. 

Gelpcke's line from New York to Fernandina consists 
of the well-known steamships Huntsville and Montgom- 
ery. The rates by this line are as follows : New York 
to Fernandina, $20, excursion ticket $35 ; New York to 
Jacksonville, $22.50, excursion $40 ; New York to 
Cedar Keys, $26, excursion $45 ; New York to Tampa 
and Manatee, $3G ; New York to Punta Rassa, rate not 
received, but presume about $40 ; New York to Key 
West, $46. 

A direct line to Jacksonville is advertised, but we 
must await results before anything definite can be stated. 
Fare to Jacksonville as advertised, $20, excursion ticket 
135. Jacksonville or Fernandina reached, the sports- 
man can take railroad, daily except Sunday, for Cedar 
Keys. If Homosassa is the objective point, a boat can 
be hired at from eight to ten dollars for the trip, or if 
disposed, the intending tourist or sportsman can com- 
municate with Alfred E. Jones at Homosassa, and if 
timely notice is given, Mr. Jones would meet his 
guests at Cedar Keys and land them at his attractive 
home, free of charge. The only difficulty attending 
this arrangement is the fact, that there is but one mail 
])cr week to Homosassa, arriving on Mondays. Homo- 
sassa can be reached by another route : Steamer from 
Jacksonville to Silver Spring, a natural curiosity that 
should be visited by every tourist. Hack from Silver 



COASTWISE KOUTES OF TKAYEL. 37 

Spring to Ociila, fare one dollar. From Ocala to Homo- 
sassa, a distance of thirty-six miles, over a good road, in 
comfortable vehicle ; charge for carriage from eight to 
twelve dollars, dependent upon number of passengers. 
Board at Homosassa, from ten to twelve dollars per 
week ; accommodations good, table excellent ; fishing 
and shooting superior ; and we may add, rooms large 
and airy ; verandas spacious ; fresh milk and butter ; 
oysters and oranges ad libitum. 

Bronson, a point on the Fernandina and Cedar Keys 
railroad, is thirty miles from Homosassa. The ponds 
in the neighborhood afford fine bass fishing ; quail and 
duck are plenty, and the sportsman may succeed in 
shooting turkeys or deer. Accommodations : hotels, 
fifteen dollars ; private boarding houses, twelve ; board 
one dollar per day, or five dollars per week. For infor- 
mation interview Mr. Gr. Levet. 

With the exception of climate, bathing, and fishing, 
Cedar Keys presents but few attractions for tourists or 
sportsmen. We regret to state that the hotel accom- 
modations cannot be recommended as Al. Sportsmen 
arriving at Cedar Keys and requiring information, need 
but call upon Mr. Gore, editor of the local paper, or on 
Willard and Koux, and mention that the liberty taken 
was in accordance with the suggestion of ^' Al Fresco." 

The steamer Valley City, commanded by that jolly 
sea-dog. Captain McKay, leaves Cedar Keys every Fri- 
day for Tampa, Manatee, Punta Eassa, and Key West. 
Parties desirous of ascending the Caloosahatchie river, 
or of spending a few weeks on the coast, could take 
steamer to Punta Eassa, and from there ascend the river 
or explore Charlotte Harbor. For 'gaitor shooting, 
ascend the Caloosahatchie to the upper islands, six 



38 COASTWISE ROUTES OF TRAVEL. 

miles above Fort Myers, and thirty-one from Punta 
Rassa. Above the ishmds the disciple of Old Izaak can 
})ut in all his spare time in landing cavalli ranging from 
five to fifteen pounds. For fight and plnck we can rec- 
ommend this fish. They take the spoon or spinner 
without hesitation, and we are of the opinion that they 
would not object to a salmon fly. For hunting and sea 
fishing we can recommend Tanibel, Lacosta, or Gaspa- 
rilla islands. For a camping place for the invalid who 
requires a bracing sea breeze, an equable temperature, 
salt bathing, and life-giving sunbeams, we would say 
camp on the northern end of Gasparilla island. The 
island is two miles in length, and is well stocked with 
deer. At the entrance, or Little Gasparilla Pass, the 
fishing is unequalled. On the opposite flats beach birds 
are more than plentiful. The main land is distant 
about three hundred yards. In the centre of the island 
a lagoon with excellent water will be found ; but by dig- 
ging a hole in the sand (and planting an empty barrel 
in it) from twenty to eighty yards from the bay beach, 
fair drinking water can be obtained at low tide. If a 
party landed at Punta Rassa, a small sloop or schooner 
could be chartered to transport boat, provisions, and 
camp equipage to camping ground. A few weeks spent 
on one of the islands in Charlotte Harbor would do 
m.uch to restore the invalid. Frosts are unknown ; 
uorth-easters and north-westers lose their injurious inilu- 
ences before reaching these favored spots. A weekly 
mail is received at Punta Rassa, and supplies could be 
obtained through Captain McKay, of the Valley City. 
We have advised parties to camp on the end of the 
island, for, by pursuing this course, bushes and grass 
would be distant some hundred yards, and in conse- 



COASTWISE ROUTES OF TKAYEL. 39 

quence mosquitoes would not prove troublesome. To 
intending visitors I would say, secure coast survey charts 
of this harbor, two in number, obtainable at any large 
nautical store. 

Eeturning northward, sportsmen could run the coast 
line from Little Gasparilla Inlet to Sarasota Inlet, a 
distance of thirty-eight miles. But unless they are 
familiar with sailing, and know how to pick their way 
between bars, and keep clear of breakers, we would 
advise them to take themselves and boat on board the 
Valley City and land at Tampa. At Tampa they would 
find good accommodations by calling upon Lieutenant 
"Wall. Leaving Tampa Bay, with its islands stocked 
with deer, and every inlet furnishing superior fishing, 
they would reach Clear Water Harbor by the Indian 
Pass. From Clear Water Harbor they could run along 
within two or three miles of the main land in from three 
to five feet of water. A barrier reef exists from five to 
seven miles from the main land, and owing to the shal- 
lowness of the water, and the grassy nature of the bot- 
tom, the water is smooth. Bayous, coves, and small 
bays will be found in numbers along the coast line, and 
a good harbor can always be made. The voyageurs 
could enter and examine en route the attractive and 
beautiful sjDrings at the heads of the Wiccawatchee, 
Cheseowillski, Homosassa, and Crystal rivers. During 
the winter months the gulf is usually as calm as a mill- 
pond, and can be safely navigated with a seventeen-foot 
Whitehall boat ; but for the purpose of navigating shoal 
water and carrying jilunder, we would recommend a 
batteau, such as is used on the Delaware river. If 
decked over and supplied with a centre-board and sail, 
such a craft would be found admirably adapted to the 



40 COASTWISE ROUTES OF TRAVEL. 

niivigatioii of the soutli-Avesfc. Arrangements could be 
made for the clieap transportation of such a boat from 
Now York to Cedar Keys by tlie New York and Fer- 
nandina line of steamers. But if money is no object, I 
would recommend intending sportsmen to secure a boat, 
witli sailing master, at Cedar Keys, Tampa, or Manatee, 
at an ex})ense of from four to five dollars per day. But 
I may remark that many of the boatmen along the coast 
liave acquired a weakness, and if peace is desired the 
whiskey bottle must be kept under lock and key. 

"Al Fresco." 



GAME ANIMALS AND BIRDS OF FLOEIDA. 

THE foUowing quadrupeds and birds have been ob- 
served in Eastern Florida, but the presence of the 
latter is only noted in spring and winter ; at least we 
have received no account of the fact that they are 
regular denizens. The quadrupeds embrace the Felis 
concolor, or panther, common in the unsettled part of 
the State ; the Lynx rufios, also abundant ; the Canis 
Lupus, or gray wolf (some nearly black), is rather 
scarce ; the Vulpus Virgmianus, or gray fox, is abun- 
dant, also the Frocyon Lotor, or raccoon, the Ursus 
Arctos, or common bear, and the Gariacus Virginiayius, 
or Virginia deer; this is of a very small size. The 
Sciurus 7iiger, or Southern fox squirrel, is abundant, 
but is confined to pine woods ; also the Sciurus Caroli- 
nensis, or gray squirrel, which is very tame. The 
Lepus sylvaticus, or gray rabbit ; the Lepus Falustris, 
or marsh rabbit, and the Didelphys Virginiana, or 
opossum, are quite common. 

The birds include the Meleagris Gallopavo, or wild 
turkey, which is very numerous ; males often weigh 
twenty-five pounds ; females six to ten pounds ; the 
Ortyx Virgmianus, or quail ; very abundant ; Squar- 
tarola Helvetica, or black-billed plover ; the Charadrius 
Virginicus, or golden plover ; the ^gialitis vociferus, 



42 GAME ANIMALS AND BIRDS OF FLORIDA. 

or killdcc plover ; the ^gialitis Wilsonius, or Wilson 
plover, and the ui'EijialUis melodiiis, or piping plover. 
The jilover were seen only in spring. The Philohela 
wi)io)\ or Avoodcock, is not common, bnt the Gallinago 
Wihoniy or snii)e, is. Tlie latter go in large flocks and 
cover the whole country. The red-breasted snipe ; the 
Sxjmpliemia scmipalmata, or willet; the Gaiiibctta Fla- 
vipes, or yellow legs ; the Gamhetta Melanolenca, or 
greater yellow legs ; Simosa Fedoa, or marbled god- 
wits, are also common. The Kumenicus Hudsonicus, 
or Hudsonian curlew, and the Numenieus Borealis, or 
Esquimaux curlew, are rare, but the Numenieus longi- 
rostris, or long-billed curlew ; the Himantopiis nigercollis 
or black-necked stilt ; the rails and gallinules, and the 
herons, cranes, and ibis, are abundant; the Annas 
ioschas, or mallard, is very abundant, also the Annas 
obscura, or black duck ; the latter duck has a lighter 
color ; its neck is more like a female mallard, and it is 
said to breed in Florida. The Dafila acuta, or pintail ; 
the Nettion Carolinensis, or green wingtail ; the Quer- 
quedula Discors, or blue wingtail ; the Spatula Cly- 
pcata or *' Shoveller ;" the Marcea Americana, or bajd- 
pate ; the Aix Sjjonsa, or wood duck ; the Fidex Marila, 
or scau]) duck ; the Aythya Americana, or red-head ; 
the Aythya Vallisneria, or canvas-back ; the Buce- 
pliala alheola, or butter-ball ; tlie Erismatura ruhida, or 
ruddy duck ; the SopJiodytes Cucullatus, or hooded 
merganser, and the Canada goose, are all abundant ; 
the latter especially in the north-western portion of 
the State. 

The following-named birds are found in the Lake 
Okeechobee region : 

1. Wilson's thrush {Turdus fuscescens). Saw one 



GAME ANIMALS AND BIRDS OF FLORIDA. 43 

specimen on Lookout Island ; the only island dry enough, 
to aiford residence to birds of this family. 

2. Cat-bird {Galeoscoptes Carolinensis). Upon the 
eastern shore, saw several in the elderberry thickets. 

3. Blue-gray gnat-catcher [Polioptila coerulea). 
Abundant in the boxwood and ash on the eastern shore. 

4. Troglodytes aedon (common wren). Earely seen. 

5. Yellow redpoll-warbler {Dendroeca 2^almarum). 
The most abundant species of the warblers here as 
elsewhere. 

6. Yellow-crowned warbler {Dendroeca coronata). 
This species seemed to delight in the maple swamps, 
and where those trees were interspersed among the 
cypress, these beautiful little birds were to be found ; 
comparatively abundant. 

7. Maryland yellow throat {Geotlilypis triclias), 
Earely seen in the marshy hammocks bordering the 
shore. 

8. White-bellied swallow {Tacliycineta Ucolor). 
Numerous ; flocks of them were seen flying over the 
marshes near Kissimmee Bay and along the western shore. 

9. The purple martin {Progne purpurea). Was 
abundant in the pine woods near the Kissimmee ahove, 
though none were seen near the lake. 

10. White-eyed vireo ( Vireo noveloracensis). Com- 
mon in the cypress belt, wherever there was a thick 
undergrowth. Its peculiar note was the one most fre- 
quently heard. 

11. Savannah sparroAV {Passerciilus savanna), Not 
numerous. 

12. Cardinal bird {Cardinalis Virginianus). We 
missed the pleasing song of this bright songster as soon 
as we left the live-oaks upon the Kissimmee, but after we 



44 GAME ANIMALS AND BIRDS OF FLORIDA. 

had emerged from tlie desolate marshes and gained the 
first maple island their notes fell upon our ears ; not 
numerous. 

13. *'Chewink" {Pipilo erifthrophthalmus). Upon 
the Kissimmee I saw them in abundance, and a few upon 
the dry sand of Lookout Island, scratching among the 
dead leaves. I also detected the local variety, or species, 
discovered by Mr. Maynard on the St. Johns, having 
the iris white instead of hazel. 

14. Cow black-bird {Molothrus pecoris). Not so 
numerous as the red-wing. 

15. Red-winged blackbird (Agelceus phceniceus). 
Very abundant. Everywhere seen in the marshes, en- 
livening us with their presence and song. 

IG. Meadow lark {Sturnella hidoviciana). The pine 
woods near the Kissimmee contained this species in 
abundance, but none were observed near the lake, owing 
to the swampy character of the shore. 

17. Purple grakle (Quiscalus purpureus). Very 
numerous, this and the Florida species, Q. haritus. 

18. Boat-tail grakle {Quiscalus major). Extremely 
abundant, associating in flocks with the red-wings and 
purple grakles. 

19. Common crow (Corvus Americanus). Very few 
seen. 

20. Fish crow {Corvus ossef vagus). Abundant eve- 
rywhere ; made sad havoc with the eggs in heron rook- 
eries wherever we landed. 

21. Blue jay {Cyanurus oristahis). None seen ; few 
heard on the east shore. 

22. Pewee {Saijorms fuscus). Very few seen in the 
larger hammocks. 



GAME ANIMALS AKD BIRDS OF FLORIDA. 45 

23. KmgG.sh.er (Cerylealcy on). Comparatively abun- 
dant along the Kissimmee and all sides of the lake. 

24. Chuck^\i\Ys^yidow {A ntrostomus Car oline7is is). A 
few heard at the deserted Indian village on the east shore. 

25. Iyoyj hill wood])ecker [Picusprmcipalis). None 
satisfactorily identified, though I caught a glimpse of 
several which I then thought to be this species. 

26. Pileated woodpecker {Hylotomus pileatus). 
Abundant ; its noisy, rattling note could be heard in 
all the cypress belts. 

27. Eed-bellied woodpecker {Centurus CaroUnas). 
Numerous ; the most abundant of the picidce here, as 
well as all over Florida. 

28. Golden-winged woodpecker, {Colaptes auratus), 
Not numerous. 

29. Paroquet {Conurus Carolinensis). Few flocks 
seen. Along the upper portion of our route on the 
Kissimmee they were abundant. I think they breed in 
the cypress belt of the east shore. 

30. Turkey vulture (Catliartes aura). Seen every- 
where sailing high over the lake, or suddenly flapping 
out of some thick cypress. 

31. Black vulture (Cathartes atratus). Eare. 

32. Caracara eagle {Polyhorus Brasilieiisis). Not 
numerous. Eegarding this species, and the sacred vul- 
ture of Bartram, I shall have some notes in a future 
number. 

33. Falco sparrerius, (sparrow-hawk). Abundant 
along the Kissimmee ; rare on the lake. 

34. Buteo lineatus (red-shouldered hawk). Most 
numerous species, having young in nearly every large 
collection of trees. 

35. Fish-hawk {Pandion lialietus). Everywhere 



4G GAME ANIMALS AND BIRDS OF FLORIDA. 

abundant in tlic lake. None of the white-lieaded eagle 
were seen in the whole trip, though the osprey had nests 
everywlierc. 

30. Barred owl {Symium nehulosiun). Numerous ; 
young found a week old. Its hootings filled the air 
every night. 

37. Great horned owl {Bubo Virginianus). Saw 
none, but heard several. 

38. Wild turkey {Mcleagris gallojmvo). The shore 
of the lake is not suited to the habits of the turkey, 
though we saw feathers at the old Indian camps, pro- 
bably brought there from the hammocks above on the 
Kissimmee, where it is comparatively abundant. 

39. Quail {Ortyx Virginianus). None seen on the 
lake, though bevies met with above. 

40. Killdee plover {yEgialitis vociferus). Abundant 
on the Kissimmee ; none seen on the lake. 

41. Snipe {Gallinago Wilsoni). Abundant on Kis- 
simmee. 

42. Yellow-legs [Gamhetta flavij^es). Very numer- 
ous on the Kissimmee. 

43. Red-breasted snipe {Macrorha7nplms griscus). 
Abundant at the ford on the Kissimmee. 

44. Sand-liill crane {Gnis Canadensis). But one 
seen on Okeechobee ; abundant on the prairie of the 
Kissimmee. 

45. Clapper rail {Rallus crejntans). Many heard ; 
none seen. 

46. Puri)le gallinule {Gallinida Martinica). Not 
numerous ; in the lily pads of the lake border. 

47. Coot {Fidica Americana). Abundant. 

48. Louisiana heron {Demigrctla ludoviciana). Not 
very abundant. 



GAME AN"IMALS AND BIEDS OF PLOEIBA. 47 

49. Snowy heron {Garzetta candidissima). Not 
numerous. 

50. White heron {Herodias egretta). Very numer- 
ous. Along the river and in several places in the lake 
I found them breeding in large numbers. The Qgg?^ 
were laid about February loth and 20th ; no young then 
hatched. 

51. Great blue heron {Ardea herodias). Abundant ; 
not near so many as of white ; breeding. 

52. Blue heron (Florida ccerulea). Not common. 

53. Least bittern (Ardetta exilis). Earely seen. 

54. Green heron {Butorides virescens). Very plen- 
tiful, and breeding. 

55. Night heron {Nycticorax griseus). Common. 

56. White ibis {Ibis alba). Exceedingly numerous, 
especially along the river. They had not commenced 
breeding to all appearances. 

57. Roseate spoonbill {PJatalea ajaja). Two pairs 
found breeding on an island in the lake ; several seen 
there. The Indians say they breed abundantly on Fish- 
eating Creek. 

58. Crying bird {Aramus giganteiis). Very numer- 
ous along the Kissimmee and western lake shore. Eggs 
had been taken a month before our arrival, February 
22d, according to a resident on the river. 

59. Green-wing teal. Abundant along the Kis- 
simmee. 

60. Wood duck {Aix sponsa). The most abundant, 
in fact the only resident species I saw on the lake. They 
were apparently breeding, as they were occupying holes 
in the dead cypress of the east shore. 

61. Florida cormorant (Graculits Floridanus). 
Abundant, and breeding on the shore bordering the Ever- 



48 GAME ANIMALS AKD BIRDS OF FLORIDA. 

glades. The custard apple trees there were filled with 
their newly built nests. 

G2. Snake bird {Plotus anJmiga). The most abun- 
dant species, with the exception of the white heron, on 
the lake or river. It had both eggs and young as early 
as February 23d ; everywhere abundant. No mammals 
were seen about the lake, and signs only of rabbit and 
raccoon. Deer occurred on the Kissimmee prairie, but 
in small numbers. 

Game and fish are abundant in the vicinity of St. 
Augustine during the winter. Besides English snipe, 
the brown-winged curlew, mallard ducks, blue and green- 
winged teal, there are the summer duck, spoonbill, wid- 
geon, shag-pole, sprig-tail, black-head, blue-head, Eng- 
lish diver, canvas-back, and the raft duck, which is found 
only in salt water. These ducks infest the rivers in 
thousands, and are considerably hunted. The sports- 
men do not exhibit a great amount of desire to fish, 
although fish are plentiful and large. Not long since, a 
number of boys, while casting their fishing lines from off 
the old fort battery here, hooked several large channel 
bass, the largest one weighing as high as thirty-four 
pounds. Trout also are freely caught. Then there is 
the mullet, whiting, black-fish, sheepshead, and other 
varieties, all in season. The oysters which line the 
river banks are delicious, and are gathered with- 
out any difficulty and to any amount. We recently 
gathered a good mess just along the city sea wall, not fifty 
yards from the streets. The deer, wild turkey, and bear, 
are successfully hunted in close proximity to St. Augus- 
tine. The hotels are kept in bountiful supply with ven- 
ison and wild turkey, killed by our old hunters. One 
of them, and undoubtedly the most experienced in the 



GAME AIS'IMALS AKD BIRDS OF FLORIDA. 49 

neighborhood, is John Canova. He tells us the game is 
handy, especially the deer. The bear is hunted but 
little, as few or no good bear dogs are to be brought into 
requisition. When they are available the bear is then 
molested, and very often old bruin succumbs. Mr. Can- 
ova, while in the woods alone one day the past summer, 
encountered a monster black bear. His ^^old reliable" 
double-barrel gun was convenient, and Mr. Bear quietly 
expired. Its weight was 400 pounds. Sportsmen hunt 
considerably some few miles south of here, on the Hali- 
fax river, as they like the idea of spending a few weeks 
of camp life. They general go by way of the Matanzas 
river, running south about twenty-five miles ; thence 
they are hauled — boat and all — over a strip of land nine 
miles in width to the Halifax river. 
3 



VI. 

GAME FISH OF FLORIDA. 

I HAD always supposed that the fishes of the northern 
coasts were of better quality than those of southern 
waters, but an experience of three' winters on the east 
coast of Florida has convinced me of my error. In a 
day's fishing at Mosquito Inlet, on the Indian river, we 
often took six or eight species of edible fish, all of which 
were quite equal to those of the Xorth. They are also 
very abundant, and not being much pursued are easily 
caught. This is particularly the case in the Indiaa 
river, where the angler might say — 

" Tliey are so unacquainted with man. 
Their lameness is sliocliing to me," 

The Indian river country is mostly wilderness, and 
can only be fished and hunted by camping out, wliich, 
however, in a Florida winter, is delightful, the weatlier 
being much like the finest October days in the Northern 
States. At New Smyrna, near the Mosquito Inlet, 
tliere is also good fishing, and there is an excellent 
hotel, kept by £. K. Dowd (the Ocean House), mostly 
frequented by anglers and hunters from the Xoith. 
Here you are near the fishing grounds, and behind the 
housO stretches awiy to the south an immense forest 
and swamp, containing bears, panthers, deer, wild 



GAME FISH OF FLORIDA. 51 

cattle, turkeys, quails, squirrels, and all kinds of ducks 
and water fowl. The house is clean, the table very 
good, the host and hostess obliging and friendly, and 
the charges moderate — about $14 per week. The route 
is as follows : From Savannah, by rail, to Jacksonville, 
ten or twelve hours ; fare, 18. From Jacksonville to 
Enterprise, on the St. John, per steamer in two days ; 
two hundred miles ; fare, $9. At Enterprise you hire a 
wagon to take you through the pine woods thirty or 
forty miles to New Smyrna ; time, twelve hours ; per- 
haps more if the swamps are full of water ; fare, $7. 
You can employ a day or two at Enterprise (Brock 
House), in fishing for black bass (here called trout) in 
Lake Munroe, or in hunting deer or wild turkeys in the 
woods. The expenses of a trip to Florida will be from 
$100 to $150 per month, according to the habits of the 
traveller. 

During parts of three winters spent in this region I 
made some notes of the food and game fishes, from 
which I have prepared the following sketches : 

Sheepshead [Sargus ovis). Dekay. — This is one 
of the most abundant sjoecies, as well as one of the 
most valuable as food. Though much more numer- 
ous than on the coasts of the Middle States, they are 
of smaller size, averaging, at Mosquito Inlet and in the 
Indian river, about three pounds. A six-pound fish is 
large, and a seven-pound one is rare. The baits gener- 
ally used are clams (better boiled, being touglier), crabs, 
fiddlers, and conchs. The latter bait is very tough, 
well resists the strong teeth of the sheepshead, but is, I 
think, less attractive than the others. We find the best 
fishing usually in the channels which run along the 
banks, upon which is a thick grove of mangrove bushes ; 



52 GAME FISn OF FLORIDA. 

the roots of tlicsc arc in the water, and are coTered 
with barnacles, wliich attract the sheepshead. From 
lialf ilood to hif^^li water they nsnally bite most eagerly, 
tliougli liero, as elsewliere, there sometimes comes a day 
on wliicli ilsli do not feed — alfected, probably, by the 
wind or weatlier. 

I am disjiosed to believe, w^ith Norris, that the 
sheepshead found on the northern coast are the surplus 
production of more southern waters. In April, the 
slieepshead on the coast of Florida become heavy with 
s]>awn, and lose their fine flavor. I think they spawn 
in May. We often t;ike them quite small, only a few 
ounces in weight. Most fishermen use a hand line, 
witli two hooks resting on the bottom, but anglers find 
more sport in the use of rod and reel. A four-pound 
sheepshead will make a strong fight, and a pair of them 
will try the angler's skill to save both. Owing to the 
hard pavement of enamelled teeth in the mouth, it is 
difficult to hook this fish, and when hooked his jaws are 
so strong that few hooks can resist their power. After 
trying many kinds I have found but two that I could 
depend upon. One is the hook used at Newport for 
tautog, and the other is figured in Norris' book under 
the name of the Virginia hook. It is the best of the 
two, having a sharp cutting edge to the barb, which 
gives a better penetration. Sinkers of different weights 
are required to suit the force of the tide at different 
times, the sheepshead being a bottom fish. Two, four, 
and six ounces will be found suflieient. "We usually 
averaged a dozen fish to a line in one tide, even when 
half a dozen persons were fishing from the boat, most of 
wliom were unskilled. I have taken twenty-five sheeps- 
head ill a tide to my own rod, and I have known two 



GAME JFISH OF FLORIDA. 53 

anglers to kill a hundred in a day. We used generally 
to fill a two-busliel bag, hanging over the boat's side in 
the water, so as to bring the fish home alive, and then 
put them in a car anchored in the creek in front of 
the hotel. 

Red-fish, or Chais^kel Bass {Corvina ocellata). Cu- 
VIER. — This is a v.ery common and numerous species on 
the Florida coasts, and is a fish much resembling in habits 
its congener, the striped bass of more northern waters. 
It is taken with similar baits, such as shrimp, crab, or a 
piece of mullet ; it fights long and hard on the hook, 
and in the proper season is an excellent table fish, boiled, 
cut in steaks, and broiled, or even fried. I consider it, 
after the month of March, to be equal to the striped 
bass. In the fall and winter the red-fish is lean and 
without flavor, but improves in March, and in January 
it is the best of the coast fishes, as well as the most 
abundant. At that, season it swarms in the river mouths 
and sounds, and can be taken with almost any bait. It 
is also found of large size in the surf on the sea-beaches, 
and can be readily taken by casting a baited hook with 
a hand line from the shore. 

Xorris represents the red-fish as ^^ stringy, and lack- 
ing flavor," while Herbert calls it excellent. Both are 
right, since its quality varies with the season. Mr. 
Norris, quoting Holbrook, describes the red- fish as of a 
beautiful silvery color, and iridescent when taken from 
the water, adding that in the Gulf they are invariably 
red. I have found that specimens under seven or eight 
pounds' weight have the back of a steel-blue, sides golden, 
and belly white — the larger fish are of a brilliant golden 
red on back and sides. All have the black spot near the 
tail, from which the specific name is derived. Some- 



54 GAME FISH OF FLORIDA. 

times there are two or more spots. Tlie cut in Xorris' 
book gives a correct figure of tlie red-fish, or clianiiel 
bass. It comes into tlie rivers with the tide, and is best 
taken in the channel near the shore at half flood. As 
in sheepshead fishing, most })ersons use the hand line, 
with the bait on the bottom, but I have found better 
sport with a brass rod and reel to hold sixty or seventy 
yards of line, using a float to keep my bait within three 
feet of the bottom. The same hook as for striped bass ; 
this fish has a tough, but not very bony mouth, and is 
easily hooked and held. In March and April we get 
them in the rivers and inlets of from five to ten pounds 
weight ; later in the season of larger size, say from fif- 
teen to thirty pounds. My largest was taken by trolling 
with a hand line from a boat in the Indian river, and 
weiglied twenty-five pounds. I have known a dozen to be 
taken by one rod in the spring, averaging eight pounds, 
but in summer a wagon load could be hauled out of the 
surf "with a hand line almost anywhere along the coast 
from Mosquito Inlet to the Indian river. 

Salt-water Trout {OtoUtus CaroUnensis). Cu- 
viER. — This belongs to the same genus as the weak-fish, 
or squeteague of the Middle States {0. regalis), differing 
chiefly in this, that the southern species has rows of 
black spots ovC the back, like the lake trout of the 
Adirondacks, which it much resembles in figure. It is, 
liowever,'not a salmon, but rather allied to the perches 
of the order Ctenoid^ of Agassiz. Our southern species 
is not much esteemed as food, becoming soft and flavor- 
less soon after capture. It is a game fish, and affords 
good sport to the rod fisher ; a very handsome and 
lively fish, from two to twi pounds in weight, and is 
taken usually with mullet bait. It is of very rapacious 



GAME FISH OF FLORIDA. 55 

habits, and on a still night in spring and summer the 
snapping of their jaws may be distinctly heard as they 
ciiase the mullets and small fry in the creeks. Hol- 
brook gives a good figiire of this species. 

The Drum {Pogonias cromis). Cuvier. (P. fas- 
ciafns). Holbrook. — There seem to be two species on 
the southern coast. Pogonias cromis is the black drum, 
the larger and coarser, sometimes weighing fifty or sixty 
pounds. P. fasciatus, the striped drum, of ten or twelve 
pounds, is the better fish. They appear at Mosquito 
Inlet about April, and spawn, I think at that season. 
The roe of the drum, salted, is a favorite dish on the 
coast, and was formerly exported in large quantities to 
Cuba. In Charleston, Savannah, and St. Augustine the 
drum is the common dinner fish when in season, though 
I think it much inferior to the sheepshead or the red-fish. 
It is taken in the same way as its cousin, the sheepshead, 
and with the same bait, and behaves in the same way 
w^hen hooked, though from its greater size and strength 
its capture is more difficult. This fish derives its name 
from its habit of emitting a hollow^ drumming noise, 
principally, I think, in the spawning season. This 
sound, like the drumming of the partridge, is difficult 
to trace, as it appears to diffuse itself in space. 

The Whitixg, Barb, or Ki:s^gfish ( Umhrina neb- 
ulosa). Storer. — The whiting is considered one of 
tlie best of the southern fishes, and is prized higher by 
the natives than even the sheepshead ; perhaps because 
it is a scarcer fish. We seldom get more tlian six or 
eight of them in a tide. The flesh is both rich and deli- 
cate, and the average weight about a pound ; but its re- 
sistance is greater than would be expected from the size 
of the fish. They are taken in rather deep water on the 



60 GAMK FISH OF FLUKIDA. 

bottom, witli either clam, crab, or mullet bait. The 
tig lire in N orris' book is accurate. 

Red Snapper, or Grouper {Serrcuias cnjtUogaster). 
CuviER. — This tish seems to be called by both names in 
ditrerent localities. In East Florida it goes by the name 
of '* snapper," and is known by the large canine teeth 
and by its rapacious habits ; when put with other fish alive 
in a car it proceeds to devour those smaller than itself. 
It has large scales, with spines in tlie dorsal fin, and has 
been placed by Cuvier among the perches. At Mos- 
quito Inlet they are small — from one to tliree pounds, 
but in the Indian River Inlet I have taken them of ten 
or twelve pounds' weight, and I have seen them brought 
in from the Gulf of double that size. The snapper 
seems to be a wary fish, and requires finer tackle and 
more careful fishing than most of the coast species. I 
have found that a rather small liooJc, fine line, with mul- 
let bait cast from a reel, using a float so as to let the 
line run off down the current thirty or forty yards from 
the boat, was the most successful way to delude the 
snapper. It bites sharply, fights hard, and is good eat- 
ing, either boiled or fried. Color, reddish brown on 
the back and sides, growing darker after death ; belly 
silvery. Holbrook, in his figure of this fish, gives it 
rows of black spots on the back. 

Black Grouper {Serranus nigritus). IIolbrook. 
— Commonly known on the Florida coast as the 
*' grouper"; it is a perch also, and is of the very best 
quality on the table, being rich and well flavored — a 
better fish than the preceding, in my opinion. It is 
shaped something like the black bass of fresh water, the 
color an olive brown, with dark mottled lines, resem- 
bling tortoise shell. At Mosquito Inlet it is taken from 



GAME FISH OF FLORIDA. 57 

two to eight pounds in weight, with mullet bait, on the 
bottom. The grouper has a stronghold under the man- 
grove bushes, or in a hole in the bank, to which it re- 
treats when hooked, and being a vigorous fish often suc- 
ceeds in reaching its fortress, from which it can with 
difficulty be dislodged, and the loss of fish and tackle is 
the result. More hooks are lost by the grouper than by 
any other fish, but as it affords good. sport and excellent 
food, it is a favorite object of the angler's pursuit. A 
bass rod and reel, with a strong line and Virginia hook, 
with lead enough to keep the bait on the bottom, is the 
best rig for the grouper, and, after all, the prospect of 
getting him is uncertain. He fights so hard that you 
have to give him line, and if you give him too much he 
is sure to escape into his hold. 

CoBiA, Crab-eater, or Sargea:n:t Fish {Elacate 
Atlanticus), Cuvier. — This fish I have never seen, ex- 
cept in the Indian river, where it is a common species, 
lying under the mangrove bushes in wait for prey like a 
pike, which it much resembles in form, and in the long 
under- jaw, full of sharp teeth. It derives its trivial 
name from a black stripe running along its silvery sides 
from head to tail, like that on the trowsers of a sergeant. 
I found it rather coarse and indifferent food, in that 
also resembling the fresh- water pike. Size from two to 
three feet long. 

The Pompais'O (Bothrokemiis pampanus). Hol- 
BROOK. — Most persons who have been in Mobile or N'ew 
Orleans have heard of the pompano. Perhaps few have 
seen or tasted it, though it has the reputation of being 
the finest fish in the world, and brings in the southern 
markets three or four times the price of any other fish. 
It is a rare fish, which may in part account for its higli 
3* 



58 GAME FISH OF FLORIDA. 

roi)utation, tlioui^li liaviiig Jnn] tlie good fortune to 
caUh and oat a ponipano in Florida I am prepared to 
ailniit its claims for merit of tlie highest order. Hol- 
brook is the only writer who, to my knowledge, gives a 
scientific descri})tion of this fish, and he apparently con- 
founds it with the cavalli or crevalle, which much 
resembles it in a})pcarance. In his '' Fishes of South 
Carolina," he heads his description " The Pompano, 
Bothrolceimis pamjmmis. Synonyms — Lichia Carolina, 
(Dekay and Storer;) Tracliinotus pampamis (Cuvier 
and Yal) ; vulgo, cavalli or crevalle ; known in New 
Orleans as pompynose." — Page 11. 

The fish known on the coast of Florida as the cavalli 
or crevalle, I take to be Caraux defensor (Dekay), which 
belongs to the same family as B. pamjmnns, but is of 
different habits and merit, and has important structural 
distinctions. 

The pompano has a truncated snout, rather a small 
mouth without teeth, jaws strong and massive, eye of 
moderate size, body much compressed and deep, about 
one-third the length ; first dorsal fin represented by six 
spines; second dorsal soft and extending to the tail; 
anal fin extending to the tail also. The pompano is a 
bottom fish, and is found singly. My specimen was 
taken in the Ilillsboro river, near New Smyrna, with 
clam bait, while fishing on the bottom for sheepshead. 
It weighed only two and a half pounds, but made so 
furious a resistance that I thought I had a large sheeps- 
head hooked foul. It ran in circles, darted under the 
l)oat, fouled (mr lines, and made fuss enough for a fish 
of tliree times it size. As soon as our boatman saAV it ho 
sliouted, " A pomi)ano ! and the first I ever saw caught 
with a hook in this river ! " This man had fished on the 



GAME FISH OF FLORIDA. 59 

coast all his life, and knew every fish in the waters. 
He liad been with us when Ave caught the cavalli ia 
the Indian river, and named both species at once. My 
specimen was a splendid creature. His colors were as 
brilliant as those of a fresh-water salmon, but instead of 
biiglit silver lie was like a bar of frosted silver. This 
clianged after death, to dark blue above and lemon-yel- 
low beneath. We had him cut in slices and fried, and 
even under that treatment, which I suspect was not the 
most appropriate, he was superb. A combination of 
richness and delicacy of flavor quite unique — like a 
Kew Brunswick salmon and Lake Superior whitefish, 
which, of all the fishes on this Continent, I hold to 
be the best. 

This specimen measured eighteen inches long and 
six in depth. 

The Cayalli, or Cretalle {Caraux defensor), 
Dekay. — Belongs to the same family as the last, and 
much resembles it in appearance. The cavalli has a 
more pointed head and snout, with moderately large 
conical and pointed teeth. The mouth is larger than 
ill the pompano, the body not as deep in proportion to the 
length, the eye is larger, has two dorsal fins, and at the 
junction of the tail with the body it is smaller than the 
pompano. In color it is olive green, and silvery above and 
yellow beneath. I found it quite numerous at the Indian 
River Inlet. It goes in schools, swims near the surface, 
and takes readily a trawl, either bait or red rag. It is an 
■active, sporting fish, but of indifferent quality on the 
table, being dry and tasteless, like the dolj:>hin of 
tropical seas. Those I caught were of about two 
pounds' weight, but I am told that it grows to five times 
that size. 



OU GAME FISH OF FLORIDA. 

It would appear that these two species, from their 
strong resembhmce to each other, are often confounded, 
and I think it very probable that si)ecimens of the pom- 
])ano rei>orted to have been taken this year in Buzzard's 
Bay were in reality cavalli, this being a more roving as 
well as a more numerous species than the pompano. 

liLACKFiSH, OR Sea Bass {Ceutrojnstes nigrica7is). 
CuviER. — This seems to be tlie same s])ecies which is 
known in New York as the sea bass, and at Newport as the 
blackfish. Like the sheepshead, those in northern waters 
are much larger than we find them in Florida waters, so 
that I am inclined to believe that they breed here and 
go North in the summer. At Mosquito Inlet, they are 
very abundant, and being voracious feeders can be taken 
almost at will, and with any bait. Usually under a 
pound, while off the reefs at Newport I had taken them 
of six or seven. 

Sailor's Choice, or Hogfish {Hemidon falvoma- 
culatus). Dekay ; Croker (Micropogon undulatus). 
CuviER ; Black Grunt {Hemulon arcuahim). HoL-; 
brook; Skip Jack, young of Bluefish {Temnodoii 
salt at or). Linn. — The above are small pan fish, which 
can be taken in vast numbers in the bays and creeks, 
but the larger species being numerous few persons 
seek for these, though they are all nice eating. The 
fullgrown bluefii^h are numerous on some parts of 
the coast at certain seasons, as I am informed, as 
are also the S])anish mackerel, but I have never met 
with them. 

Mullet {Magil lineaius). Dekay. — I think there 
are several species of the mullet here. Tliey are found 
everywhere in the bays and sounds in immense shoals, 
and arc taken in seines and cast nets in size from lutlf a 



GAME FISH OF FLORIDA. 61 

pound to six pounds. It is a very valuable fish to the 
inhabitants, since it takes salt better than any other 
southern species, being equal to the mackerel in that 
respect. It also furnishes a valuable food in its spaAvn, 
which is salted and smoked. It is also used extensively 
as bait for most other fishes. The mullet appears to 
subsist upon the minute animals found in the mud, 
with which substance its stomach and intestines are 
usually found to be filled. Eaten fresh, the mullet 
affords a rich and savory food. 

Salt-water Catfish {GaleicJithys mariniis). Cu- 
viER. — Much resembles the fresh-water catfish, but is 
a handsomer fish, both in form and color. It has the 
barbels dependent from the mouth, and strong spines in 
the pectoral and dorsal fins, capable of inflicting painful 
wounds upon careless hands. As to its value as an 
edible species, I cannot say ; they are numerous, and 
greedy biters, but are generally thrown away, or left for 
the coons and buzzards. Size in the Indian river, ten 
or twelve pounds. 

Sharks ajs^d their Coxgexers. — Sharks are very 
numerous in these waters, from six to nine feet long — • 
probably the mackerel shark, Lamna punctata — Storer. 
There is a species here called the nurse shark, Somni- 
osus hoeirpin7ia, De S., which is sometimes taken with a 
hook ; it is about five or six feet long, and its teeth are 
very small. 

Other members of this family are the garfish, angel 
fish, rays, skates, etc. The garfish, Pristis antiquorum 
(Dekay), is shark-like in form, with a cruel weai)on pro- 
jecting from its snout one-third the length of its body. 
This is studded with sharp spines on either side, iind is 
used to kill other fishes. The sawfish has a largo 



6% GAME FISH OF FLORIDA. 

nioutli, l)ut no teeth in it, so ho shishcs his saw among a 
sc'liool of nmllets, killing half a dozen at a ])lo\v, which 
lie then gohbles np at his leisure. He is dreaded by 
lishennen, who disable him by a blow on the saw. 

The angel-fish is a very bad angel indeed, judging 
from his a])pearance, which is between a shark and a 
ray — a hideous combination. 

The rays or skates belong also to this class, and tliey 
are of large size and numerous on this coast, particularly 
the sting ray, Trygon hastata (Storer), which is a terror 
to fishermen. In wading to cast their nets they are in 
danger of treading on this creature, which lurks in the 
mud or on the sandy bottom, and when touched strikes 
with his terrible barbed weapon, making ragged wounds 
so difficult to heal that they are popularly supposed to 
be poisoned. These rays are often six feet long, includ- 
ing the tail, and three feet across. They appear to live 
upon the small mollusks so numerous in these waters. 
I have seen a ray, when hauled ashore, disgorge a pint 
or more of these small bivalves. 

The torpedo ray, or crawfish, is also found on this 
coast, which animal carries with him an electrical 
battery of 250,000 plates as described by naturalists, 
capable of giving a very severe shock to the incautious 
fisherman. 

Cephaloptcra vampirus. Mitchell. — :The great ray, 
vampire of the ocean, or devil-fisli, is found also in these 
waters, although it seldom enters the rivers. This is 
often fifteen feet in length, and the same in breadth, 
and is strong enough to drag off a small vessel, when it 
l)ecomes entangled with the cable, as sometimes hap- 
];ens. In Charleston harbor they are pursued in whale- 
boats, and captured with harpoons, affording great 



GAME FISH OF FLORIDA. 63 

sport. In Victor Hugo's romance, the name clevil-Hsli, 
which belongs to this ra3\ is wrongly bestowed upon the 
octopus, or cuttle-tish. This great ray, when propelling 
itself through the water with its immense pectoral tins, 
which look like the wings of a bat, is a wonderful sight. 
On its head are two horns, which, with its long tail, 
complete the resemblance to his satanic majesty. This 
is a fish, and the cuttle is not. 

I hear often from the natives of two large and valua- 
ble fiskes of these waters, which, from their great size 
and activity, are seldom caught — the jew-fish and the 
tarpum. The jew-fish seems to be a near relative of the 
grouper, and to belong, like it, to theperch family. It is a 
short, thick-set fish, with large fins, and h:>oks like a giant 
black bass or a tautog ; color, olive brown ; scales small, 
head large, with well developed mouth and numerous 
small teeth. The first dorsal fin has eleven spines ; 
second dorsal, soft ; anal fin long, like the esocidae. 
When hooked it runs for a hole, like a grouper. Speci- 
mens have been taken in these waters on a shark line, 
which weighed two or three hundred pounds, so that I 
think it must be the larger of the percoids. The flesh 
is rich and well flavored, and as I have only seen this 
one specimen in four winters' fishing here, I think it 
must be a rare fish. 

The tarpum I have not seen. It also is rare, and is 
described to belong to the mackerel family, growing to 
the weight of 80 to 100 lbs. A surface fish, very active 
and strong, with brilliant silvery scales the size of a 
dollar. It is rarely taken with hook and line, as it 
generally carries away the tackle, however strong. It 
goes in schools, and leaps from the water when struck, 
either with hook or spear. The only successful way of 



04 GAMK l-lSll UF J-1.()K11)A. 

killing the tarpum, I am told, is to strike it with a har- 
poon, to wliich is attached hy a strong line a small 
cmj)ty cask ; the lish, by struggling with this buoy, 
exhausts itself so that it may be a})})roaclied in a boat 
and killed with a lance. I lately hooked a mysterious 
fish or fishes (for the same thing happened to me three 
times within an hour) which ran out 50 or 60 yards of 
line with a single dash, and then breached on the sur- 
face, taking away my hooks. It was so strong and swift 
that in trying to check it a thumbstall of thick bnckskin 
was cut through by the line as if by a knife, and my 
thumb burned by the friction. This was either a shovel- 
nosed shark, which runs off in this way, not turning 
like a common shark, or a tarpum, and as a school of 
these fishes has been often seen near the spot where I 
hooked my fish, I am inclined to think it was this species 
Avliich I then encountered. The rush was more like 
that of a fresh run salmon than of any other fish I 
know, except that this one did not leap out of the water 
like the salmon. 

Not havi*ng access to any works on icthyology, I am 
unable to give the scientific names of these fishes. 
Tliey are mentioned under the above names by Captain 
Romans, who wrote a " Concise Natural History of 
Florida," al)out 1773. New York anglers, wlio kill 30 
or 40 lbs. striped bass with the rod, would find in the 
jew-fish and tarpum foemen worthy of their steel. 

The variety of species which one meets with in these 
waters in a few days' fishing, while it adds much to the 
variety and interest of the sport, causes a great loss of 
hooks and lines. 

Perliaps you rig with small hooks for pigfisli or whit- 
ing, and a red-fish of twenty pounds takes away your 



GAME FISH OF FLORIDA. 65 

nooks ; or you are fishing with larger tackle for redfish 
and a giant ray takes your hooks to the bottom and stays 
there, or a furious shark of 200 lbs. cuts off your line at 
the first turn he makes. I succeeded in capturing a 
nurse shark five or six feet long, with rod and reel. 
This is a shark of rather sluggish habits (whence its 
name, Somniosus hrevipenna), with teeth too small to 
allow it to cut off the line. After 15 or 20 minutes' play 
it was gaffed by our boatman. 

The Feesh- water Fishes of Florida. — Of these 
I have less knowledge than of the sea fishes. The 
species most widely diffused, and also the most valued, 
is the black trout, or bass {Grystes salmoides). This 
species is also found in the western lakes and rivers, but 
in Florida it grows to a larger size ; specimens of eight, 
ten, and twelve pounds being sometimes taken. The 
native method is with a bob, which is a bunch of gay- 
colored feathers, with two or three large hooks concealed 
in it. This is fastened to a yard or two of strong line, 
and this to a stout reed pole. The fisherman sits in the 
bow of a canoe, which is paddled by one in the stern, 
and kept at such a distance from the weedy shore that 
the bob may be skittered along the margin. Out rushes 
the bass, and cannot well escape being hooked ; he is 
either hauled in by main force, or breaks away. TsTorth- 
ern fishermen use the spoon, or sometimes cast with a 
long line and gaudy flies. Once on the Upper St. Johns, 
near the Everglades, two of us took, with spoons, trawling 
from the stern of a steamer, twenty or thirty black bass 
in an hour or two ; they were from two to six pounds 
weight. Parties who go out from Enterprise upon Lake 
Munroe in small boats often bring in great strings of 
bass. 



66 GAME FISH OF FLORIDA. 

In the lakes and rivers are also found the 3TII0W 
perch, P. flavescens (Cuvicr) ; sunfish, Poniotis vulgaris 
(Olivier) ; blue bream, FcJifheh's iNcisor (Val.) ; red- 
bellied perch, Icldhetis rtihiranda (Storer) ; goggle-eyed 
perch, Fomoxis rhomboidcs (Linn). 

S. C. Clarke. 



VII. 

THREE MONTHS IN FLORIDA FOR A HUN- 
DRED DOLLARS. 

IT is a pity that people other than rich, should be 
afflicted with sickness or devices that spring from a 
craving for a change of climate. So wide a difference 
exists between the climatic conditions of the Northern 
States and those of the southernmost, that it is quite prac- 
ticable for one possessed of means to remedy any defect 
in his constitution, pulmonarily, if this expression be 
allowable, merely by a change of residence. It is so well 
known that it needs no further showing, that consump- 
tion, that scourge of the North, can be cured (if not 
radically, at least its fatal consequences postponed), if 
the patient is taken in hand in the early stages of 
the disease, and treated to a dose of the bland and 
health-renewing climate of Florida. It is so well known 
that thousands seek, and gain, relief by a temporary 
residence in that land of the ^'Fountain of Youth." 

Pernaps that term, " the Land of the Fountain of 
Youth " has not already been used several thousand 
times ; but no matter, it is very telling, when one would 
attract the attention by the use of sonorous phrases. 
But Florida-deserves all such flattering titles as the above, 
and that of the '' Land of Flowers," no matter how much 
ber defamers may say to the contrary. There are thou- 



Gb TlillEE MONTHS IX ILOIUDA 

sands more who would l^e but too glad to avail themselves 
of tlie advantages accruing from the winter's stay there, 
could they but alford it. Consumption is so insidious 
in its approach that its victim is lulled by a fatal sense 
of security to postpone tlie day of departure until too 
late, and he departs only for the shadowy land. Any 
well-informed physician can prognosticate the result at a 
sufliciently early stage of the disease to warn the patient, 
and then — then only, is the time to profit by the knowl- 
edge, and leave a place of death for a country of health. 

To those who are suifering, who are hesitating, dread- 
ing the annoyance and expense incident to a voyage to 
Florida ; feeling that they would rather face the certain 
dangers of another winter at the North, I address myself. 
To another class of citizens the information to be given 
here will not come amiss — to those who, though in good 
health and strength, have unsatisfied longings for the 
game region of the South. It cannot be denied that many 
sportsmen suffer from a plentiful lack of money, and any 
suggestion tending to furnish a moderate supply of game 
at slight expenditure will be acceptable. To them, then, 
as well as to the invalid, the following notes may be of 
service ; though in fact, as may be expected, the invalid 
will drop his role of sick man and assume that of sports- 
man, at an early period of his stay in a land whose cli- 
mate is so gloriously rejuvenating as that of Florida. 

To fulfil the expectations aroused by my announce- 
ment at the head of this paper to treat one to a three- 
months' trip to Florida for a hundred dollars, I must 
assume that the tourist be tolerably strong, and able to en- 
dure a sea voyage in a sailing vessel. Fifteen dollars will 
cover the cost of a ' ' cabin " passage from New York to 
Jacksonville, in Florida. Fifteen dollars and two weeks' 



FOR A hu:n"dred dollars. 69 

time. Perhaps three weeks ; may not consume but eight 
days ; but two weeks is a fair average. Assume, then, that 
$15 is expended for passage down, twice fifteen (coming 
back) makes thirty dollars, leaving a balance of seventy 
dollars for other expenses for two months, one month 
supposed to have been passed on the briny deep. Re- 
garding the joys and delights of an ocean voyage in 
%vinter, I remain silent ; that is a matter of taste, and 
individual taste does not come within, the scope of this 
article. There are people who revel in the beauties of 
an ocean storm ; who climb out upon the bowsprit as 
the vessel rises and falls, to get the full benefit of the 
plunge. To such, a trip to Florida in a schooner would 
be unalloyed bliss, provided cabin accommodations were 
good, and *'grub" well-cooked and varied. Again, 
there are those to whom* the dreary monotony of sailing 
on and on is horrible, and to whom a storm but represents 
so much racking of bones, and so many dinners lost for- 
ever. These seek consolation within themselves, and 
draw upon their reserve fund of vitality fearfully. 

Other routes are at the disposal of one not confined 
to a limited amount of cash, and for thirty-five dollars 
he can reach' Florida by one of the many steamers that 
ply between New York and the South. These steamers 
run to Charleston and Savannah, and connect with 
other steamers that enter Florida. The accommodations 
are very good upon the majority of them, and the time 
consumed in the entire trip generally less than five days. 
All-rail routes there are, for those who dread the ocean, 
which make the distance in about a day less, and at a 
cost of about forty-five dollars. The most preferable 
route, in my opinion, is by steamer to Savannah, and 
thence by the new road direct to Jacksonville. Pro- 



70 THREE MONTHS IN FLORIDA. 

vidcd time is not an object, the " inside route," among 
the sea-ishmds of Georgia, is very pleasant. 

There are but three ports directly accessible by sail- 
ing vessel upon the east coast of Florida. Commencing 
with the northernmost, these are, Fernandina, Jackson- 
ville, and Kcw Smyrna. The two first named have a 
large lumber trade with the North, and frequent oppor- 
tunities are offered for passage and freight upon the 
vessels engaged in the business. They go down liglit, in 
ballast, and are but too glad to receive any quantity of 
freight. This is why Jacksonville can furnish provisions, 
and nearly everything else, at New York prices. 

Fernandina has many inducements to offer in the 
matter of out-door life. It has a magnificent ocean 
beach, pure air and delightful bays, harbors, creeks and 
rivers to sail and fish, close at home. In many things 
it out-ranks its lower neighbors, but in the way of game 
it cannot approach some places on the lower coast 
and St. Johns. It has direct rail communication witii 
the west coast at Cedar Keys, fare about $7, and steam- 
boat communication with Savannah and Charleston 
both the inside and outside lines. The town itself 
is orderly, pleasant, and well supplied with markets 
and stores. 

As a place from which one may reach the most 
attractive portions of the State, Jacksonville should be 
sele?ted. Situated upon the St. Johns, it has steam 
communication with every settlement upon that interest- 
ing river, and with St. Augustine, New Smyrna, and In- 
dian rive.r, upon the coast. It has direct rail connec- 
tion with Tallahassee, the capital of the State, with 
Cedar Keys upon the west coast, and thence with all 
the Gulf ports, the keys, and Cuba, and with Savan- 



FOR A HUNDRED DOLLARS. 71 

nail, via the old circuitous route, and a more direct new 
one. Being naturally, so centrally and commandingly 
situated, drawing tlie trade and productions of the St. 
Johns, with its countless tributaries and lakes, it is the 
place of all places to obtain a first glimpse of Florida in 
its most flourishing condition. The climate of Jackson- 
ville is not all that could be desired, for it does not pos- 
sess that remarkable softness and warmth generally 
supposed to belong to Florida. It is subject to extremes 
of temperature, and in winter will chill a sensitive 
invalid to the bones with its nocturnal frosts. It has 
much that is desirable, however, in its bright warm days, 
and possesses a grand birthright in the St. Johns alone. 
Here the camper-out had better procure his outfit, except 
tent and personal effects. From Jacksonville to Enter- 
prise, 200 miles up the St. Johns, the fare by steamer is 
$12, and of proportionable price to intervening landings. 
To Salt Lake, the farthest point reached by steamers 
(curious stern-wheelers), it is about $6 more ; all freight 
at the rate of about $1 per barrel ; a small boat up 
the St. Johns pays $5 for passage upon the steamers. 
Indian river, the great game section, is reached via Salt 
Lake, from the St. Johns, the distance across land at 
that point being but six miles. 

New Smyrna, one hundred miles south of the mouth 
of the St. Johns, has more inducements in fish and game 
and real enjoyable camping life, but lacks the many 
conveniences of diet and travel that the other places 
possess. Few vessels visit it, and these for lumber, 
chartered by live-oak contractors. For a party in good 
health, with plentiful sujiplies, it is the best point one 
can choose for a few months' stay, when the object is 
merely to gain flesh and have a good time hunting and 



73 THREE MONTHS l^ FLORIDA 

fishing. Two large lagoons, thirty miles in length, 
enter the ocean at this point, and via the south, or 
MoscLuito lagoon, can be reached the famous Indian 
river. 

St. Augustine, thougli claiming attention from its 
delightful climate and the interest attached to its ruins, 
is not especially referred to, as not being in direct com- 
munication with the North. It has small sailing vessels, 
as well as has New Smyrna, connecting it with Jackson- 
ville, and a rail connection with the St. Johns, but is a 
dear place to visit. 

When to go depends upon so many things that it 
is not an easy matter to advise correctly. If one wished 
merely to get rid of cold weather, then the first of 
December would be the time, being sufficiently early, 
and in season to catch a parting touch of the hot season. 
The months of January, February, and March are prob- 
ably the best to spend in Florida ; being the pleasant- 
est there, as well as the most trying to the invalid at 
the North. 

Perhaps a few facts as to climate will be pertinent to 
the subject, and are accordingly produced. By reference 
to my note book of three years ago I find that the temper- 
ature in January ranged from 28 to 80 deg. ; was more 
equable in February and March, with less extremes, 
though growing warmer. The mean temperature of 
January was about 60 degrees. According to the only 
tables at present accessible, the mean temperature in 
Jacksonville, for January, for 20 years, was 5e5 degrees, 
for February, 58 degrees, and for March, 63 degrees. 
In Augustine, for the same time and months, the means 
were, respectively, 57, 59, and 63 degrees, thirty degrees 
warmer than the mean temperature of West Point dur- 



FOR A HUITDRED DOLLARS. 73 

ing the same period and montlis. At Key "West, the 
extreme southern port of Florida and our Union, the 
range of the thermometer was nine degrees higher. 
At New Smyrna the temperature is essentially modified, 
and on Indian river the change is much greater, temper- 
ature being several degrees warmer. 

With the object in view of spending two or three 
months in Florida at an expenditure of no more than a 
hundred dollars, the only mode of living practicable 
will be in the open air. To many of our readers, whose 
camp-fires have gleamed in every corner of the Union, 
the proposition to camp in such a wild and delightful 
climate as that of Florida would be hailed as likely to 
give the ^^ substance of things hoped for." Let those 
who wish, patronize the hotels at a monthly expense 
exceeding our total outlay for the winter's trip. Camp- 
ing out, then, is to be the manner of living, and to do 
that successfully a tent is needed. If desired, this 
luxury can be dispensed with and a shelter constructed 
with the stalks and leaves of the palmetto. To one 
'Miandy"with an axe and knife, and an old cam- 
paigner, this house-building would be a small matter. 
It is assumed, however, that the party be ignorant of all 
that pertains to camp life, and needs to go provided 
with a shelter from the elements. Now tents can be 
bought in any variety, but what is really needed is — 
first, strength to withstand the weather, and the 
greatest amount of room consistent with weight and 
bulk. A tent, large enough for a party of four, with 
room for '''traps," and provisions for two months, can 
be made at an expense of about $1-5, if made by the 
party, and of light, waterproof drilling. It should be 
about twelve feet long, with walls about four feet high, 
4 



74 THREE MONTHS IX FLORIDA 

and slanting roof, witli ridge-pole six or seven feet from 
the ground. Should be made so that it can be tightly 
closed at times. Fifteen dollars for a tent, and thirty 
dolhirs for passage down, amount to forty-tive dollars 
already expended. Can we provision and provide foi 
the welfare of the party with the remainder ? Let 
us see. 

After the tent-jioles are cut, at the place of camping, 
which sliould be upon fresh ground, in a rather airy 
situation and tolerably near wood and water, the tent is 
pitched, and we have a habitation. If a party of four 
start together something is saved to each individual, as 
the labor and expense of freight, etc., is much less, borne 
individually. While one is driving tent-pins, and 
another cutting wood for fire, another can be preparing 
the food for cooking, while the fourth is hunting for the 
long Spanish moss (TiUcmdsia), for bedding. Provis- 
ions demand the first attention, and, in this matter 
alone, much will depend upon the tastes of the camper- 
out. Having but fifty odd dollars, and having many 
wants to supply, some very close skirmishing must ensue 
between actual and imaginary wants. It will be 
admitted that we must have pork. Without that the 
camper-out could hardly exist. It fries his potatoes 
(provided tliere be a fire), cooks his flapjacks (if he has 
any), and spatters and sizzles over a *^ light-wood " fire 
in a way that, in itself, is refreshing to a hungiy hunter. 
Pork, then, must be taken, say fifty pounds ; this may 
be enougli and it may not ; there may be an abundance 
of venison, when the pork will, of course, be consigned 
temporarily to solitary confinement ; but the chances 
are, that pork will appear upon the table, or palmetto 
leaf, three times and more, a day. Pork $5 ; dry salted 



FOR A HUJ?"DEED DOLLAES. 75 

is best for transportation, and a coarse bag, denom- 
inated ^^ gunny-bag," the best receptacle for it. 

Flour, some persons may need to be told, is some- 
times called the staff of life. That depends wholly 
where it is. In some places it is made of secondary 
importance to whiskey, and the true Floridian regards 
the fluid that cheers, likewise inebriates, as the real staS 
and mainstay of his existence. When the whiskey is 
gone he is gone. When the popularly known ^^ staff" is 
gone, he can repair to the nearest hammock and cut a 
'^palmeeter cabbage;" but no satisfactory substitute 
exists indigenous to Florida for the much-loved whiskey. 
Flour for one person, two months, sixty pounds. Bet- 
ter take the self-raising flour, either Hecker's or Jewell 
Brothers' ; being in convenient packages, and ready for 
use by the addition of a little water, and a stick (not 
the metaphorical '^ stick"), it is much prized, and saves 
a great deal of labor. With the flour costing about $3, 
and a box of good crackers (better than flour, because 
ahvays ready cooked), costing as much more, one will be 
prepared with all the farinaceous food he needs during 
his stay. A few pounds of meal, costing nothing worth 
calculating, should be added. A bushel or a barrel of 
good potatoes is necessary, and if those give out, 'sweet 
potatoes can be purchased at a dollar per bushel or less. 
Out upon the man who would exclude the potato as a 
luxury dispensable. We can afford it in the quantity 
desired, even with so small a balance remaining of our 
hundred dollars. Who does not remember the delicious, 
delicate, fragile conceptions of potatoes sliced and pre- 
pared at the highest class restaurants ? At least, who 
does not remember reading of them ? Two dollars fifty 
for potatoes, and as much more for coffee. Nothing so 



76 THREE MONTHS I:N' FLORIDA 

helps to strengthen one after a heavy tramp, or long 
hunt, as a cup of good colfec. Carry it whole, brown it 
in the frying-pan and pound it in a shot-bag with a 
axe. Thus it will be kept until needed, of refreshing 
strength and aroma. The condensed coffee is liked by 
some, and if it suits the taste, should be taken, as it 
saves much in bulk and preparation. A dollar more 
needs to be added for this substitute. A little sugar, of 
course, unless one prefers "long sweetening," which 
latter is more liable to loss, being un-pick-up-able Avlien 
spilt. A dozen cans of condensed milk, costing about 
three dollars, will last a single person a long time. If 
this is taken, the sugar may be disjiensed with ; if it is 
not, then take three dollars' worth of cut loaf sugar. In 
a land of sugar-cane one need not be without sweetening 
for his coffee. Salt and pepper, a few pickles, or 
pickled onions, and a little condensed beef, in all not 
exceeding three dollars ; to which may be added, very 
gratefully, a choice list of delicacies, but they will not 
be allowed in this bill, as we haven't got any further 
than the larder, and liave expended sixty-eight dollars 
already. The indispensable cooking utensils are few. 
First, as the chief friend of the camper-out, is the fry- 
ing-pan. Never omit it. Let it receive early attention. 
It should be a foot in diameter, well made of wrought 
iron, and with a Zoy^y/ handle. The handle is especially 
marked long in italics for the benefit of the novice in 
cooking over an open fire. 

Next in order is the bake kettle, an article once in 
use among our ancestors a hundred years ago, or so, in 
the good old times ; and to be found in every ^' cracker " 
family at the South at the present day. The camper- 
out cannot do without it. It should be at least a foot 



FOR A HUNDRED DOLLARS. 77 

in diameter, and cost, with the frying-pan, not over $3. 
A quart tin cup, a tin plate, a knife and fork, and 
spoon, will be seen only to be appreciated by the know- 
ing one. These may be duplicated, as the loss of either, 
though not wholly irreparable, might occasion discom- 
fort. They cost but little, say a dollar or so. A sharp 
knife should be in camp, but we are not Yankees if we 
do not have a jack-knife in our pocket. An axe or 
hatchet should certainly be taken, say II for a hatchet. 
A few matches, candles, a little soap, salve for bruises, 
and liniment perhaps, should be taken, and two dollars 
will cover the whole bill. 

As no extra expense is entailed in respect to clothing, 
nothing will be allowed for its purchase. If anything, 
there should be credit given for the amount saved by 
wearing old clothes the entire winter. Aim to dress 
comfortably, and be able at times to dress warmly. 
Take a good stock of old cast-off clothing, and remember 
to donate it when you leave, for the benefit of some ona 
— you are sure to meet him — poorer than yourself. 
Wear woollen shirts and stockings, old trousers and 
boots, and light, broad-brimmed felt hat. Take one 
pair water-proof leather boots, but rely mainly upon 
easy fittiug shoes. An old overcoat is most acceptable 
at times, for, though the temperature will rarely descend 
below 35 or 40 degrees, it will certainly, at times, reach 
to 28 degrees, and then the unprotected ones shiver. 
It is at night, however, that it is cold, and good blan- 
kets are necessary. At least one pair army blankets, 
costing about 86. Rubber blanket, or better, a good 
'' poncho," costing 12. A mosquito net, or bar, of fine 
lawn or mosquito netting, is absolutely necessary, as 
mosquitoes and sand-flies fairly revel at times, and at 



78 THREE MONTHS IN FLORIDA 

such times — generally when the camper-out most desires 
repose — commit insufferable depredations. Make the 
bar of fine lawn or cotton cloth six feet long, four broad, 
and three high. This will shelter two persons, or ought 
to, and will cost about 12. A pocket compass is some- 
times very valuable to one travelling in the woods, and 
as he will not want to remain at all times in close 
vicinage to camp, and as the faculty of direction is not 
generally sufficiently developed in an amateur to enable 
him to wander far into the swamps without getting lost, 
one had better be taken. Expend a few dollars in fish 
lines ; good, strong bass lines and hooks, and some 
smaller ones for sheepshead and smaller fish. These, 
with the expense of freight, will take at least five dol- 
lars, making a total expense for the whole trip of ninety 
dollars. This leaves l>10 for contingent expenses, which, 
by a judicious expenditure, may be made to conduce 
materially to the comfort of the camper-out. I flatter 
mj'Self that the amount would not have remained had I 
not, by very careful calculation, reduced his wants to 
the minimum. Do not cast about for some means of 
spending this sum, though it may burn the pocket ; it 
is best to retain a gri-p upon it, at least until the very 
last week of camping. By the addition of a few dollars 
one can secure a most convenient arrangement called a 
*' camp kit," containing everything desirable for cooking 
in a small space. In a large pail is packed frying-pan, 
plates, knives, forks, etc. — in fact, everything necessary 
to the wants of a party of six, for the sum of a dozen 
dollars. And then there is the portable stove, which, 
weighing but little and small in compass, will prove a 
blessing in any camp. A kerosene stove is very con- 
venient, but will necessitate carrying fuel, while for 



FOR A HUNDRED DOLLARS. 79 

the camp stove, the fuel is at hand, only needing to be 
cut. I speak of these things lest any one should think 
me regardless of their comfort. It is possible that some 
desiderata may be omitted, but the main desires and 
wants, at least, are provided for. In provisions there 
may not be quite enough, but I think what I have enu- 
merated will cover the wants of a winter's stay. Fish 
and game will very likely aid greatly in providing for 
your wants ; but then fish are sometimes very perverse 
and will not bite, and turkeys, quail, and deer will per- 
sist in secluding themselves in inaccessible places. That 
ten dollars should be sufficient to cover all extra outlay 
for provisions. Now I expect some cavilling person 
will say, ^' You haven't provided gun or boat, nor many 
other things necessary to one's comfort in a land un- 
known to him." 

I know that. I didn't agree to ; merely promised to 
take you to Florida and back, giving a month on the 
water, two on land, for one hundred dollars. I have 
done more than that. I have provided for your wants 
for that period, not taking into consideration the fact that 
your bare board at the North would cost you twice the 
amount it will to camp. You haven't allowed for the 
value of the cooking utensils, blankets, etc., after they 
have served your purpose, and you do not consider, 
though it is true as gospel, that you have, if an ordi- 
nary man, saved at least half the expense of clothing 
a winter's residence at the North would necessitate. 
Really the trip to Florida has cost you nothing, and with 
a little more time and " figgerin' " I might perhaps 
show that you had made money by the venture. Any- 
way, you will come back with a renewed lease of life, and 
rejoicing in regained strength, which of themselves, are 



80 THREE MONTHS IN FLORIDA 

inestimable and incalcnlable. A gun, by all means, 
sliould be taken, and if tbe clioice lies between shot gun 
and rifle, take the former. With a shot gun one can 
secure a greater yariety of game than with a rifle, and 
should be able to supply the camp. Do not get a muzzle, 
if you can procure a breech-loader. There is no com- 
parison between them, and it is universally conceded 
that the breech-loader surpasses in safety, and rapidity of 
loading and flring. There is little choice in the various 
kinds, except in price ; they are all generally safe enough, 
and the choice of selection will depend mainly upon 
the length of the purchaser's purse. Rifles are of all 
prices, from the cheapest second-hand at $10 to the latest 
and best Remington. A revolver is sometimes useful, 
but not necessary, unless one is expert enough to kill 
small game with it. My word for it, there will be no 
occasion, unless one visits the wilder portions of Florida, 
for its use upon larger game, if I may except an infre- 
quent chance at deer or turkey. Take a few steel or 
brass shells for the breech-loader, but let the bulk of 
them be paper, which, costing but $1 per hundred, can 
be thrown away after discharged, and thus much weight 
of carriage and annoyance avoided. By oiling them 
well they will not stick in the breech, and will prove 
everyway serviceable. Carry a quarter-keg (6^ lbs.) of 
good powder, as it can be readily exchanged for other 
things, if not all needed. In shot, take three sizes : a 
few pounds of buck ; ten pounds No. 2, and ten of No. 
6 or 8. This will give sufficient variety without too 
great weight. If caps are taken, choose the best Eley's. 
The cheaper grade of water-proof, at about 61 per m., is 
good enough. 

And now, if one would enjoy himself to the fullest 



FOR A HUKDllED DOLLARS. 81 

extent, let him take a boat. Whether he camp on the 
coast or the St. Johns, he will find himself sadly at loss 
for means of conveyance, unless he has a boat of his own. 
Good boats are scarce in Florida, out of the cities, and 
cannot be obtained. It is not necessary that it be yalu- 
able or fast sailing, but it should combine safety with 
lightness and buoyancy. For merely coasting about the 
creeks and quiet portions of the inlets, a light boat, like 
a " dory," or gunning skiff, is all that is needed. But 
for more extended trips, a larger one, built upon the 
same pattern, is what is wanted. When not in use, it 
should be drawn upon the sand and covered with pal- 
metto leaves to keep the sun from warping it. A coat 
of copper paint is necessary to prevent the worms, in the 
brackish waters of the coast, from riddling it with holes. 

It is thought that everything is now provided for a 
three months' trip, and after a few words regarding the 
drawbacks to enjoyment to be met in Florida, as else- 
where, this paper will be brought to a close. 

Of the many annoyances incident to a camp life in 
Florida, the insects take first rank. In fact, there are 
no other real causes for complaint. Mosquitoes undoubt- 
edly take precedence of all others as the most blood- 
thirsty, persistent, and numerous. They cannot be 
entirely avoided, though they may be kept at bay by the 
use of a good mosquito bar, large enough to cover blank- 
ets and bedding at night ; in the day time their depreda- 
tions are confined to swamps and dark places. The 
sand-flies, which sometimes appear in clouds, bite like a 
bull-terrier, and sting like a red-hot iron. They will 
crawl into your hair, nose, ears, unless much care is 
used, and withal, are undesirable neighbors. They bite 
principally in early morning and evening, but are very 
4* 



82 THREE MOXTIIS IX FLORIDA 

uncertain, and put in an appearance wlien least expected 
or desired. Tlie mosquito is bad, tlie sand-fly is worse, 
but neither can hold a candle (figuratively speaking), to 
the flea. In many things the flea, the wicked flea, is 
wholly unapi)roac]iable. He can jump farthest, hold 
his wind longest, and bite the cussedest of any members 
of his tribe. Of all things the most annoying, he holds 
on, hits hard, and his persecutions end only with his 
death. He is a regular hard-shell Baptist ; and if there 
is no place of future punishment in his creed, his victim 
fervently hopes there is one for fleas. If one of these 
crustaceans take up his abode with you, it is for life, 
and should at once be hunted down. But the flea is not 
indigenous to Florida, as is well known, and he has no 
particular State for habitat, though dwelling only in 
certain places. If the camp be pitched in an old plan- 
tation, or near a family of crackers, where canine and 
porcine quadrupeds do abound, then look out for fleas. 
Camp on fresh ground, near no plantation, deserted or 
occupied ; allow no dogs, hogs, or flea-haunted men near, 
and you may be exempt from their ravages. Should a 
flea obtain a lodgment in your garments (you will know 
it at once), lose no time in dofiing your clothes and insti- 
tuting a thorough and vigorous search. Remain out a 
w^eek rather than carry him to camp. These are extreme 
measures, not recommended — only suggested. 

Scorpions sometimes alarm the camper by suddenly 
appearing from under an overturned piece of bark, or 
perhaps from under a blanket. They are not very com- 
mon, and their sting, though painful, is not fatal. 
There is no danger from them unless suddenly grasped or 
confined in the clothing. They are very disagreeable 
visitors, however, and one that I happened to take in my 



FOR A HUKDRED DOLLARS. 83 

hand once, gave a rude shock to my nerves, though it 
did not bite. 'Tis said that salt and vinegar, or ammo- 
nia, are antidotes, placed upon the sting. As prevent- 
ives for bites of mosquitoes take tar and oil and smear 
the face and hands, though there is a feeling against 
such a remedy. Ammonia is recommended, thougli of 
little use. Fear of snakes is almost wholly groundless. 
Though many varieties exist in Florida, there are but 
two to be feared, the moccasin and rattlesnake. The 
former is in great abundance in the swamps, though the 
rattlesnake is not common. Both are exceedingly veno- 
mous, and their bites speedily prove fatal. There is lit- 
tle danger to be apprehended, except from snakes in 
the grass ; the danger being in stepping upon one un- 
awares. There are many remedies, which may be spoken 
of in the next article, but the one surest in effect and 
most generally in use is w^hiskey in large doses and soon 
taken. This may account for the general and wide-spread 
use of that article, as it is in great demand, and there 
are many who believe that a pound of prevention is 
worth an ounce of cure, and act accordingly. 

Healthfulness of the country is the first considera- 
tion. It has been abundantly and conclusively shown 
that Florida is tolerably free from any endemic disease. 
The climate of the coast is remarkably salubrious and 
conducive to health. Except in the near vicinage of 
swamps, and along the rivers and fresh- water lakes 
in summer, there is no cause for alarm, and one can 
preserve his health with tolerable care. A winter's resi- 
dence in any section of Florida is not likely to give one 
what is so universally and justly dreaded— the ^^ shakes." 
I have camped in swamps and marshes night after night, 
and passed weeks upon the banks of rivers and lakes, 



84 THREE MONTHS IIS" FLORIDA. 

with no covering over me at night except my blanket 
and mosquito bar, and liave yet to feel the slightest 
touch of fever. I have known of instances of fever the 
first season, but do not think the disease was contracted 
there. So far as my observation extends, I am inclined 
to agree fully with one better qualified to judge than 
myself, that " Florida possesses a much more agreeable 
and salubrious chmate than any other State or Territory 
in the Union." 

Feed Beverly. 



VIII. 

SUPPLEMENTARY HINTS FOR CHEAP 
RECREATION. 

THE first consideration to the winter visitor to 
Florida, is tlie climate, which is delightful. I do 
not think so agreeable a place can be found in the United 
States. I am not so good a judge of the winter climate 
of California, having spent but one winter there, and 
think the climate of Florida much more dry, five days 
out of six bright and cloudless ; three, four, and five 
weeks at a time, clear and bright, and of most agi'ce- 
able temperature, and even as far north as Palatka there 
are generally but two or three niglits in the whole 
winter that ice is formed. Rain rarely falls, and this is 
the great charm of winter climate, and enables the 
sportsman to be comfortable in his tent, when in Georgia, 
Texas, or California, he would wish himself in the hotel. 
The whole coast, east and west, swarms with fish, and 
of a very fine quality ; pompano, sheepshead, grouper, 
red-fish, king-fish, Spanish mackerel, mullet, turtle, and 
such oysters — for flavor and size they beat anything to 
be found North. The St. Johns river is also full of fish. 
Shad are plenty all winter, and in the upper parts of 
the river black bass were so plenty as to often jump 
into our boats, and eight to ten pounders are very com- 
mon. Game, except quail, is getting scarce about the 



86 SUPPLEMEXTARY HIKTS 

larger places ; but you have only to go into the country 
to find abundance of deer and turkey. 

When I commenced, I intended from my experience 
to tcU of a more pleasant way to spend winters in 
Florida than Mr. Beverly's (provided you have money 
enough), and without costing near as much as to live at 
the hotels, have a better table, and lots of fine sport, 
and withal tlie most comfortable and pleasant way a 
company of gentlemen can spend winters in Florida. 
Let a half dozen good fellows get up a liglit-draft stern- 
wheel steamer, to draw about twenty inches of water — 
just such a boat as the little Clifton, so well known on 
the St. Johns river for scYcral years. The writer was on 
board of her for two winters. She cost about $4,000, 
built and fitted up at Philadelphia, was used four or five 
winters as a pleasure-boat, and then sold for a ferry-boat 
without much loss. Three men made up the crew. 
The whole expense was about 815 each day, which, 
divided among six, was not high for such fishing and 
hunting as we used to get ; and such bird suppers as 
Kcuben could get up I never expect to see again. This 
boat was built by a party of gentlemen from Clifton 
Springs, New York, and run down from Philadelphia. 
One could be got up much cheaper now, in Jacksonville. 
Such a boat can go to the upper waters of the St. Johns, 
above where hunters go, and where game is plenty. 
The St Johns is a wonderful river, and one of great 
magnitude, and it has always been a wonder to me where 
so much fresh water comes from. It runs from south 
to north, is over 300 miles long, and in many places is 
very near the coast. It appears more like a beautiful 
chain of lakes, for more tlian a hundred miles from 
its mouth, and will average nearly two miles wide, 



FOR CHEAP RECREATION". 87 

for that distance. The tide is felt as far up as Pilatka, 
and what appears singular, when it is high water at the 
mouth of the river it is low tide at Jacksonville. Visi- 
tors should always go up as far as Enterprise, to see the 
beautiful lakes and wonderful springs. We could not 
get the Clifton much above Lake Winder. A floating 
island covered with willows had drifted across the chan- 
nel, and we could only get up in small boats to Lake 
Washington. We found Lake Winder a fine place for 
game ; deer and turkeys where very abundant, and more 
snipe than w^e had seen in Florida. We also found 
many birds which we did not see about Lakes Harney and 
Jessup. The carrocca eagle, in full, light plumage, was 
common ; also the purple gallinule, coast bittern, yellow- 
crowned night heron ; and we found many extensive 
breeding places. This is the home of the alligators, and 
they used to trouble us by getting our birds as they fell 
into the water, before we could get to them. Sport can 
be had with alligators by bating a shark hook with a 
coot, or some other bird. Fasten the end of the rope to 
the top of a small tree that bends well, and in the morn- 
ing you are almost sure to find one hooked. If a large 
one, you can only pull him into the bank ; if a small one, 
keep away from his tail, or teeth, and to get your 
hook, after you are done playing with him, you must 
shoot him. In their stomachs you will most always find 
a roll of feathers, fish, and often large moccasin snakes, 
and they sometimes eat one another. I have seen one, 
eight feet long, in a large one's mouth. Favorite birds 
for our party to slioot were the white-plumed cranes, 
egrets, snowy herons, for their plumes ; and we could 
make quite good collections of Florida bird skins. The 
steamer had two small boats, so we could go up the 



88 SUPPLEME^-TARY HIXTS 

small creeks ; and wc explored most every lake and 
stream on the river. Although we were so far south, we 
had no trouble with insects. All the windows had wire 
gauze, and we were careful to keep the doors shut. Our 
sleeping accommodations and our dining room were very 
good. The boat would run about ten miles an hour, 
and we could change our location very easily. AVe 
found moccasin snakes very abundant in the upper 
country, but had no trouble with them. One day we 
lost a rowlock from the boat, and proposed to the black 
man, Bill, to take off his clothes and get it up with his 
feet. As he reached the bottom he stepped on a large 
snake, which coiled about his leg. He went ashore with 
a yell, and one of our party said he was the whitest man 
in the lot. He was sure he was bit, and kept hold of 
his pulse to see if he was not dying ; but was not hurt. 
The snake appeared as much frightened as Bill. "We 
saw very few rattlesnakes. One of our party, Mr. Rice, 
at Lake Jessup, shot a white heron that fell into the 
water near the shore. He saw a large alligator start 
for the bird, and Rice thought he could get the 
bird before the alligator, which he did, and threw the 
bird over his shoulder, the alligator following ; and as 
he reached the bank the alligator struck his legs, but did 
him no damage. I have made this paper too long, and 
can recommend for real comfort such a cruise. Such 
a steamer, after going up the St. Johns river could be 
taken around to St. Augustine, and so down to Indian 
river, and the expense less than to live at the hotels. 

Geo. a. BoARDMAii". 



FOE CHEAP KECKEATIOiq'. 89 



ANOTHER PLAK FOR CHEAP RECREATION. 

It has been stated that the trip to Enterprise from 
Jacksonyille will cost $12, and to retura $12 ; entire 
trip, $24. A large portion of this expenditure can be 
advantageously saved by the tourists making the trip in 
a small boat. If the seeker for pleasure camps out at a 
particular point on the river, he will soon tire of a daily 
view of the same objects, and crave for pastures new. A 
person who proposes spending several months in the State 
would find a boat journey pleasant, as well as instructive. 

Let two or three excursionists unite and purchase a 
second-hand batteau about eighteen feet long, which can 
be obtained at from twenty to thirty dollars in any of 
our Northern cities ; supply her with centreboard, 
rudder, and a sprit, or leg-of-mutton sail, costing in the 
aggregate from thirty-five to forty-five dollars. We vis- 
ited Jacksonville a few days since, and made inquiries 
regarding the price of boats, and we have reason to 
believe that the boat would. prove a safe investment, and 
bring cost price ; if the boat was even abandoned at end 
of trip, her purchase would prove a more profitable in- 
vestment than paying for passage up and down the river. 
From Jacksonville to Pilatka, and at otlier points along 
the river, a sail can be used as a means of effecting a 
change of base : and when old Boreas fails in his atten- 
tions, an '' ashen breeze " can be used ad liMtiun, and the 
river ascended at from two to three miles per hour. 
"With a boat, the tourists could examine the various 
tributaries and lakes en rouie, and visit unfrequented 
localities, where excellent hunting and fishing can be se- 
cured. At Enterprise the tourists could secure a stock 



90 SUPPLEMENTARY mXTS 

of provisions, ascend tlic river to Lakes Winder and 
AVasliington, and enjoy hunting and fishing in localities 
seldom visited by sportsmen. 

Having lived in tents in more than one portion of 
the world, I flatter myself that I am an autliority on 
nomadic subjects, and must diUer with your correspond- 
ent regai'ding the construction of tents. He recom- 
mends one ** with walls four feet high,'' but trampers will 
find an A-shaped tent, seven feet to ridge, nine feet deep 
and seven feet wide, the most portable, easiest to pitch, 
best to shed rain, coolest under a hot sun, and last, though 
not least, the cheapest and easiest to make by the unin- 
itiated. The cost of the material, at eighteen cents per 
yard, would be about five dollars, and the trampers 
could make it on board of the vessel before reaching 
Jacksonville. 

Food is an important item, and a proper fit-out in 
the way of fishing tackle and sporting appliances w^ould 
add to the culinary department as well as curtail expen- 
diture for eatables. If unsupplied with strong-jointed 
rods, we would advise the excursionists to provide them- 
selves, before leaving the North, with four strong Japan 
cane rods (not bamboo,) a few spinners and spoons, and 
some strong lines and Virginia, Limerick, or Chestertown 
hooks. A mess of trout (bass) can be captured at any 
time by trolling with a spinner and line from GO to 120 
feet in length, in open water. But as lily pads exist in 
many lakes, ponds, and rivers, a bob must be used. A 
very useful bob can be made by tying a few scarlet feath- 
ers to a strong hook. Line to be about three feet in 
lengtli, and attached to the end of a long and stout pole. 
One must cautiously row the boat, and another skitter 
the open places between tlie lily pads. "When a fish is 



FOE CHEAP RECREATION". 91 

hooked, the fisherman must haul in his rod hand over 
hand, for if a large fish is allowed to play among the lily 
pads, and foul the h'ne, the excursionists will be apt to 
retire to roost supperless. The above has not been 
written for the benefit of experts ; but for those whose 
larder may require replenishing. The artistic mode of 
fishing for trout (bass) is with rod, reel, float, and min- 
now in open water. The uninitiated will ask. How am I 
to capture minnows in the wilderness, where earth-worms 
cannot be secured for bait ? I am disposed to aid the 
gree.nhorn, and would advise him to examine the stems 
of the lily pads, and in many of them he will discover a 
small hole. If the stem is split open a borer will be 
discovered ; and if these, with small hooks, are used in 
shallow water, a supply of minnows can be captured. 
But by using a bob, a spinner, or spoon, a supply of fish 
can be secured at almost any point above Pilatka. 

If three should unite in an excursion to Florida, the 
cost of trip by sailing vessel and return would be $90 
(and as a majority of vessels go out light, transportation 
could be secured for boat free of charge). Expense of 
boat, $40 ; small stove and cooking utensils, $10 ; fishing 
rods and tackle, $8 ; ammunition, $12 ; tent, $6. Leav- 
ing $134 for provisions and incidental exjoenses. We 
have reason to believe that the boat would bring $20, if 
not prime cost, which would be placed to the credit of 
the provision account. By the use of a boat the trip 
can be made for a very small sum. 

'^Al Peesco.'' 



IX. 

UP THE ST. JOHNS EIVER. 

r 

FOUR winters ago the writer was one of a merry 
dozen who, on pleasure bent, helped swell the 
overwhelming stream of tourists who, fleeing from the 
Northern cold, sought shelter in the Sunny South. 
After various incidents of travel we found ourselves in the 
crowded joarlors of the St. James at Jacksonville, and 
planned our trip. Two years have wrought great 
changes since then, even in that sleepy land, and I am 
pleased that this winter's flock of tourists will find better 
liotel accommodations everywhere than fell to our lot on 
that day. Even as it was — Tocoi railroad and all — 
that trip is one to be remembered a life-time ; and all 
who can make it should do so. 

We left Jacksonville on a bright warm morning, in 
the Florence, a comfortable boat, with courteous and 
obliging officers ; and comfortably seated on deck en- 
joyed the trij) exceedingly from Jacksonville to Tocoi." 
Every mile carried us farther from the frosty North. 
The St. John is a magnificent stream. Originating 
among the Everglades in the south of Florida, it flows 
northward nearly three hundred miles, when it bends 
sharply to the cast, and empties into the ocean twenty- 
three miles from Jacksonville, which is at the bond. 
For over one hundred miles from its mouth it will aver- 



UP THE ST. JOH]S"S RIYER. 93 

age three miles in breadth, expanding occasionally into 
beautiful lakes. Thus the first day of our trip we were 
in such wide waters that, except as we approached the 
landings, we did not get the benefit of the semi-tropical 
scenery of the banks. But the air was soft and balmy, 
the sky blue, water smooth and clear, and we, just 
started and fresh, w^ere in high spirits and enjoyed every 
moment. 

Our first landing was at Mandarin, where, amid an 
orange grove and splendid group of water-oaks, Mrs. 
Stowe has built herself a home. The place is but a ham- 
let, and after delivering our mail we hurry along ; but 
not until they have rounded a point and shut in the view 
do the tourists relinquish their gaze upon this sunny 
Southern, home. Twelve miles farther carries us to Mag- 
nolia. At this point v/e found a goodly assemblage of 
guests. The hotel accommodations are the best, the 
hotel itself is beautifully situated, and a good table, with 
good attendance, insure a good time. Black Creek is a 
navigable stream for fishermen and sportsmen. On a 
sunny day its banks are lined with alligators, while fish 
and game of all descriptions are j^lentiful. Two miles 
above Magnolia is Green Cove Springs, where are also a 
good hotel and boarding house. This is a great resort 
for invalids, who can enjoy daily a bath in a sulphur 
spring, wdiich has given the place its importance. This 
famous spring is situated about a hundred yards from the 
landing, amid a group of great water-oaks which, covered 
with hanging festoons of gray moss and mistletoe, add to 
its beauty more than any artificial setting could to this 
emerald gem. The spring boils up in great lumps from 
a deep crevice, and fills a pool some twenty feet in diame- 
ter with its bright but greenish-hued water, clear as a 



94 UP THE ST. JOHNS RITER. 

crystal — a green crystal. Every little speck on the bot- 
tom is distinctly visible, even in the deep crevice, which 
is, I slionld judge, abont twenty feet in depth. The 
outlet forms quite a little river, and over it a bathing 
house lias been built ; and here those suffering witli rheu- 
matic or kindred complaints luxuriate in its warm em- 
brace. Seventy-six degrees is the average temperature 
summer and winter, seldom varying from this point more 
than a degree or two. The water is slightly sulphurous ; 
more perceptibly so in the odor than in the taste, but 
sufficiently to banish any form of animal or reptile life 
from its proximity. This, in a country which snakes are 
said to frequent, is in itself a great inducement, but I am 
inclined to think that the snake crop of Florida is vastly 
overrated. An old hunter told me that he had been out 
for deer at least three times a week since Christmas, and 
had not encountered a snake. On the other hand, one 
of the natives informed me that *^ there was a right 
smart clumce of moccasins." But wherever else they 
may locate, the Green Cove Spring is exempt, and the 
invalid may enjoy his bath without a nervous tremor. 

About noon we arrived at Tocoi — or, as we afterward 
dubbed it. Decoy — forty-five miles from Jacksonville. 
This miserable apology for a place contains one old 
tumble-down house, and two rough board shanties, 
which latter constitute the depot at the western ter- 
minus of the St. Augustine railroad. This road is 
fifteen rniles in length, and should make an easy 
approach to St. Augustine. We thought we were 
nearly there, but we knew more about it soon after- 
ward. Could we have but foreseen the hardships we 
were to go through, we might have decided not to 
proceed. Two hours' strolling about or sitting on logs 



UP THE ST. JOHI^S KIVEE. 95 

under tlio sliadeless pines used up our time, while a 
little asthmatic tea-kettle of a steam-engine was being 
tinkered into going condition. Finally, ready for its 
task, it was hitched to two dilapidated boxes on wheels, 
into which, by tight crowding, we succeeded in squeez- 
ing ourselves. The day 'was chilly, the cars full of 
cracks and drafts ; where there should have been 
windows but the holes remained ; and water-proofs and 
capes had to be substituted for glass. We needed but a 
rain to complete our discomfort. The road itself is, if 
possible, more disgraceful than the cars, the rails of pine 
and cypress (no iron) were worn, chipped, shivered, and 
rotten. We smashed one fiat to the ties, and had a 
narrow escape from being capsized into the swamp ; and 
had our engine the power to have bumped us along a 
few feet further, we should have had a serious, perhaps 
fatal, accident to wind up our pleasure trip. As it was, 
all hands turned out, and lifting our crazy vans again 
upon the track, we crawled along for nearly five hours, 
delaying at times to put a new rail on the track, to dip 
a few bucketf uls of muddy water from the ditch into the 
boiler, or to cut up a log to furnish nutriment to our 
wheezy little engine. At last, the fifteen miles accom- 
plished, we reached St. Augustine tired and worn-out. 
May we never have to go over that road again. The 
road leads through a swampy country, and some of the 
scenery was almost grand : great cypress trees, with 
their swollen feet standing in murky pools, and draped 
with huge "weepers" of gray moss hanging from every 
branch three to six feet in length ; foul turkey-buzzards 
resting upon the lofty trees, or sailing about in muffled, 
noiseless flight, gave a funereal character to the scenery 
from which Dante might have drawn his inspiration. I 



96 UP THE ST. JOHNS RIVER. 

am sure we saw tlie counterpart of the Stygian pool. 
And 3'et it was not all so gloomy. Bright-lmed flowers, 
green parasites entwining whole groups of adjacent trees, 
great bunches of mistletoe on the oaks, and now and 
then a bright cardinal bird or blue jay flitting among 
the branches, gave us plenty to admire, and almost 
whiled away the time ; and we had our own internal 
resources — songs, stories, and hard-boiled eggs. 

In the morning, after our arrival at St. Augustine, 
our first trip was to the Old Fort. This venerable 
pile of coquina is interesting principally because of 
its antiquity, and from the historical associations 
connected with it. Started three hundred years ago, 
it was a hundred years in building. It was owned 
and garrisoned successively by Spanish, English, 
United States, and Confederate troops. It was bom- 
barded by Sir Francis Drake's fleet, the marks of 
whose balls are still visible on its sea face. It has 
gloomy dungeons, in one of which, discovered some 
years since by accident, two chained skeletons were 
found. It has an old vaulted chapel, with its altar and 
niches for images, now all defaced, and the floor marred 
and scarred as though it had been used to chop wood on. 
Our irreverent member thought that the old monks 
must have had sharp knees, from the looks of the floor. 
The " old sergeant," who acted as our cicerone, is a 
character, and relieved his dry statistics with a drier 
humor peculiarly his own. He showed us a dungeon 
where two Seminole chiefs — I forget their names — had 
been confined, and a slit in the wall through which one 
of them escaped. They must have starved that Indian 
very successfully before he could have accomplished it. 
A subterranean passage is popularly supposed to exist, 



UP THE ST. JOHITS RIYER. 97 

connecting the fort witli the convent, but it has not been 
found. In one of the dungeons the "old sergeant" 
sprang upon us what was evidently a pet joke. Paus- 
ing in his tale until the loiterers were collected around 
him, and standing in chilly reverence, he told us of some 
prisoners who, from that very dungeon, had attempted 
to escape by burrowing under the walls. He told us of 
the great distance to be undermined before reaching the 
moat and liberty — some thirty yards, I believe. Stand- 
ing with his back to the wall he slowly lighted half a 
dozen dips as he talked, then turning suddenly aside he 
threw the concentrated rays into a hole about two feet 
deep, and curtly remarked, " They didn't succeed." 
With this co^lp de theatre the old gentleman, satisfied 
that he had ended well, left us to find our way to the 
outer air and to stroll through the narrow streets of 
the town, between the high dead walls and under the 
projecting balconies that characterize the Spanish style 
of building and give to St. Augustine an asj^ect so dif- 
ferent from anything to be seen elsewhere in the United 
States. The names of the streets, and the signs over 
the stores, show the Spanish origin of the inhabitants ; 
for instance, our party were domiciled at Mrs. Mer- 
cedes', Mrs. Hernandez', and Mrs. Seguis', and we 
shopped at Madame Oliveros'. The Spanish cast of 
feature prevails, too, and a dark-eyed, black-haired 
brunette, whom I saw leaning over a balcony, carried me 
back to days gone by, when, in old Spain herself, I 
have seen her counterpart. A walk along the sea wall, 
built of coquina (a concrete of shells), which fronts the 
town, where the fresh sea-breeze brought new vigor to 
our tired steps, and a cruise among the establishments 
devoted to the manufacture of palmetto hats, brought 
5 



98 UP THE ST. JOnXS RITER. 

our till}' to a close. Tliese liats are being iiianafacturetl 
and sold in immense nun>bers. One lady — Madame 
Oliveros — who has the most extensive establishment, 
employs fifty women, and her sales in one season, I was 
told, amounted to seven thousand. 

We left St. Augustine with mixed emotions ; while 
we had received the utmost kindness and hospitality 
from private individuals, hitherto strangers to us, and 
wTre delighted at the quaint old-fashioned town, and 
charmed with the warm, pleasant climate tempered by a 
bracing sea-breeze, we had nothing i)lcasant to remember 
of those wdiose duty it was to look out for the comfort 
of guests ; and we felt that until good hotels, large 
enough and wtII enough conducted to furnish some 
comforts, could be added to its present stock, and until 
some method of getting there free from the discomfort, 
anxiety, and danger of the Tocoi railroad can be de- 
vised, the invalid should avoid, and the pleasure-seeker 
lice from it. 

Our trip to Tocoi was made in the same comfortless 
boxes, and a good hard rain was added to the previous 
discomforts. We got over without serious accident, but 
tlie pleasure of the rest of the trip was alloyed by the 
illness of some of the more delicate, brought on by the 
hardship of the trip. 

At Tocoi w^e found the Ilattie awaiting us — a small 
steamer, but necessarily so, as the rest of our trip 
was to be made in narrow streams and shoal water. 
We were very comfortal)le on board of her. The table 
was good, quarters clean, and the captain — Charley 
Brock — a good felloAV. Our first stopping place was 
Pilatka, ten miles beyond, and here we remained until 
some time in the night, to enable us to pass over tUo 



UP THE ST. JOHXS RITER. 99 

entrance to Lake George by daylight. This gave us 
opj)ortanity for a stroll about the town, and to enjoy 
a most delicious supper at a well-kept hotel, the Putnam 
House. 

Pilatka is the head of navigation for the larger 
steamers plying on the river, and has considerable com- 
merce. Leaving at midnight, we awoke the next morn- 
ing in the ' midst of scenery ever to be remembered. 
The river is narrow, the banks but a few feet off, as the 
channel neared one shore or the other, and are densely 
covered with a tropical vegetation. Palms, palmettos, 
water-oaks, and pines are the principal large trees, all 
festooned with gray moss. The stream is so crooked 
that at no one time can we see half a mile in advance ; 
thus gliding along with our visual limit constantly cir- 
cumscribed, we seem to be in the centre of an ever- 
advancing and ever-changing panorama : herons, cranes, 
ducks, and other birds of all descri^Dtions give animation, 
and if the day be sunny, countless alligators dozing upon 
the banks furnish rare sport to the sportsman. Some- 
times great monsters, twelve to fourteen feet in length, \ 
are seen, and eagerly shot ; and if a large one be shot, 
the obliging captain will stop the boat to secure the 
head, which, when reduced to the condition of skull 
alone, is considered quite a curiosity, while the teeth are 
of beautiful ivory, and are carved into all sorts of trin- 
kets. Our day, though, was cold and rainy, and alligators 
scarce ; few were seen, and none killed. At first the 
more timid of our lady companions objected shrinkingly 
to our firing from their midst, but after a few palpable 
misses they became convinced that our rifles were not 
dangerous, even to tlie game, and from protesting 
against it became rather fond of the sport ; and they 



100 UP THE ST. JOHNS RIVER. 

all foTfrot that it was Sunday till a sharp rain drove U3 
in and broke up the shooting match ; then they expressed 
themselves ! 

Just before sunset we entered Lake Munroe, where 
the river exi)ands into a noble lake, over six miles in 
diameter. On its western side is situated the town of 
Mcllenville, where we got such beauties of lemons, ten 
to twelve ounces each, and cheap — four cents apiece. 
Thence we crossed over to Enterprise. This little place 
consists of a hotel, a store, and two or three houses, and 
has a population of perhaps forty. It is the farthest 
point to which a regular line of steamers plies, but to the 
sportsman there is still another hundred miles of narrow 
river, deep lagoons, gloomy bayous, and wild, untrodden 
land, where all sorts of game, such as bears, wild turkeys, 
deer, and ducks are plentiful, and the waters teem with 
great varieties of fish. Splendid black bass, ten pounds 
in weight, abound — they call them trout here — besides 
bream, perch, and great catfish, from three pounds up 
to incredible figures. For the benefit of travellers, I 
would state that the story of the bears here being web- 
footed is not strictly in accordance with fact. Tiiere is 
a fair hotel at Enterprise. It is clean, beautifully situ- 
ated near an jo range grove, with a fine outlook on the 
lake, a fine sulphur spring near by, and a little lake 
two miles inland, where our fishermen secured a fine 
string of black bass in an afternoon's fishing, and a 
woody back country, which, when Tyson goes out with 
his hounds, will always yield at least one deer, and gen- 
erally more. From here parties penetrate into the 
Indian river country, where a bag of a dozen alligators 
is but an ordinary day's work. The little steamer 
Silver Spring, with au experienced captain, takes 



UP THE ST. JOHNS RIVER. 101 

charge of this part of the ceremony. At Enterprise we 
succeeded in getting a few oranges. The crop had all 
been picked and sold, and oranges were not so plentiful 
in Florida as in New York. Although we saw none of 
the sweet oranges on the trees (March 20th to 30th), yet 
we were fully as much pleased with the sight of the wild 
orange. This fruit, although uneatable, is larger and 
of a more golden hue than the eatable orange ; the leaf 
is nearly the same, but of a darker, glossier green, and 
the flower identical. These we saw in profusion. A 
great drawback to the success of agricultural pursuits in 
Florida is the latinia, or scrub palmetto, growing as a 
bush from three to fiye feet in height. Its roots extend 
in all directions near the surface, like great cables three 
inches in diameter, and form an impervious network 
through which a plough cannot be forced. ' 

Leaving Enterprise at one A. m., we again had a 
cold and rainy day. Wise through experience, we did 
not waste our time watching for alligators that would 
not come out, so made ourselves happy in the cabin. 
At Green Cove our party broke up ; all who could re- 
maining at that lovely spot, and the rest of us parting 
here and there, as our roads homeward diverged. 

L. A. Beardslee. 



X. 

INDIAN RIVER. 

BEGINNING some thirty or thirty-five miles to the 
southwiird of St. Augustine,, and extending along 
the coast of Florida about one hundred and seventy-live 
or eighty miles, are two salt water-lagoons, separated 
from the ocean by a mere narrow fringe of sand. The 
larger and more soutlnvard of these is known as Indian 
river, and the other as Mosquito lagoon. Tliey are sepa- 
rated by a low belt of sand, resting upon a bed of shell 
conglomerate scarcely two miles broad. 

It is, however, with Indian river that I have present 
concern, as it is possessed of peculiar, extraordinary, and 
little known attractions and resources, which, if properly 
developed, would make it an unequalled sanitarium for 
pulmonary subjects. With its northern extremity near 
Cape Canaveral, this sheet of water stretches southward 
for about one hundred and fifty miles, with but one narrow 
communication with the ocean — Indian River Inlet, lati- 
tude 27 deg. 30 min. nortli. Tlie long, narrow strip of 
sand on either side of the inlet, wliich, as I have said, 
separates the lagoon from the ocean, is nowhere broader 
than one mile. Here and there the winds and waves 
have heaped up the sand into clusters of low dunes, but 
next to the waters of the lagoon there is a dense growth 
of the mangrove {Rhizophoracea), wood of small diameter. 



INDIAN RIVER, 103 

but of a beautiful red color, and takes a very fine polish, 
and the whole zone is thickly dotted witli the graceful, 
picturesque, and useful cabbage palmetto tree, which is 
valuable as a timber for many purposes, and its leaves 
also, while its unexpanded young foliage is a delicious 
vegetable. Other and even more valuable trees of the same 
(palm) species might be largely introduced, as, for ex- 
ample, the cocoanut, which has been shown to flourish 
there. It is in part this low-lying skirt of luxuriantly 
wooded, dry sandy soil, breaking the force of tempestuous 
winter winds, met at times on the southern Atlantic 
coast, which makes the western shore of Indian river so 
highly favorable as a winter residence for invalids. 

Near Indian Eiver Inlet, upon the main land, a mili- 
tary post (Fort Capron) was established in November, 
1849, and careful meteorological observations were taken 
for a series of years, which show rare climatological 
characteristics peculiarly favorable for pulmonary pa- 
tients, that is to say, a singularly equable temperature 
with comparative dryness. For example, during a period 
of five years ending with 1854 the mean temperature of 
the winter months was 63 deg. 20 min., with a relatively 
small rain-fall during the late autumn, winter, and early 
spring months, or 217 fair-weather days for the year. 

The lagoon has a coralline bed, and is free from 
marshes. Communicating with the sea by Indian 
River Inlet, as I have stated, it likewise receives a 
good deal of fresh water through Santa Lucia river, 
v\'hich is an outlet of the Everglades. It teems to an 
almost incredible degree with fish of the finest and most 
palatable varieties, including that most delicate and 
toothsome of all American fish, the pompano. Never, 
indeed, on either the Atlantic, Gulf, or Pacific coast 



104 IMHAV KIVKU. 

have I seen fish so fat and well llavored. The ordinary 
mullet, here very fine, is found in extraordinary shoals at 
certain seasons, and nowhere else is the sheepshead so 
line and dainty a lish as in Indian river. As for the 
oyster, it is worth a visit to Indian river to eat those 
found there, especially those which have been trans- 
planted ; their flavor is the finest in the United States. 

Some four miles southward of the inlet, the western 
shore rises some thirty feet above the level of the sea into 
a bluff of com})act, broken, or decomposed shell, for some, 
distance. Here there are fine situations for building, 
with the necessary !-i)ace for small })lantations of tropical 
fruits and plants, which thrive so well in all that region. 
There are already orange orchards which have been 
planted for a quarter of a century. The pineapple, 
found in most of its numerous varieties, and other inter- 
tropical fruits, do as well here as in the Antilles. North- 
ward the shore is skirted in large part by narrow reaches 
of dry hammock land, covered with the live-oak. This 
soil is shallow, but underlaid by a marl, which keeps 
fresh its virgin fertility, and is found particularly well 
adapted to the growth of sugar-cane, which comes to 
flower or tassel on Indian river as in Cuba, but not hab- 
itually in Louisiana. Therefore, the cane of Indian 
river is richer in saccharine matter to the pound than 
that of Louisiana. 

Immediately back of these arable tracts, the very tim- 
ber of which is so valuable in ship-building, there runs a 
sand ridge, which here and there abuts directly upon the 
water of the lagoon, and is everywhere covered with noble 
pines, affording an exhaustless su])ply of accessible build- 
ing timber. Kearward of this ridge the country, some- 
what lower than the ridge, stretches out into great spaces 



INDIAN- RIVER. 105 

of pine barrens, which afford, however, a fine range and 
pasturage for cattle, and abound in game, such as deer 
and wild turkey, while in winter the lagoon is alive with 
wild duck. On the slope of this ridge, toward the lagoon, 
by digging wells of ten or fifteen feet, an abundance of 
pure, delicious water is developed, being simply the 
rain-water of the great pools in its rear, filtered through 
the sand ridge. 

A glance at the map discloses the fact that for more 
than thirty miles of its upper course, the St. Johns river, 
flowing northward, is parallel with Indian river lagoon, 
at an average distance of not more than ten miles. At 
several points, indeed, the distance is reduced to eight 
miles, so that a canal of that length, through ground 
peculiarly favorable for cheap and easy construction, 
would give water communication by steam with Jack- 
sonville, and in fact with Charleston. At the same time, 
during the late fall, winter, and early spring tides, the 
inlet affords passage to steamers drawing from eight to 
ten feet of water, with a completely sheltered harbor im- 
mediately within the bar. Beside fish to so marvellous 
a degree in variety, numbers, and excellence for food, 
Indian river is likewise the resort for turtle. The vege- 
tation and flora, by no means so luxuriant as that of 
inter-tropical regions, are, however, largely of the same 
description. The trees are covered with beautiful air- 
plants, and other parasitic plants, which open a broad 
field of interesting investigation. The tree yielding gum- 
caoutchouc by exudation, for example, is there, although 
not in quantities for commercial purposes, and is an in- 
teresting feature of the landscape from its peculiar grovrth 
or habit of climbing and staying itself by the trunk of 
another tree, which it finally envelops, crushes, and de- 
5* 



106 INDIAN KIVER. 

stroys. Several species of very closely grained, heavy, 
liigh-colorecl woods, susceptible of tine polish, and 
adapted to the uses of the cabinet-maker, are tliere in 
abundance. Undoubtedly, tiie Campeachy or logwood, 
would thrive, if introduced upon the beach or seaward 
shore of the lagoon, or would soon so multiply (as in 
Santo Domingo, where it was first planted for hedges) as 
to become a valuable product. 

And so I might go on enumerating what nature has 
planted or supplied in forest and stream, and what man 
might easily do to make at least a charming health resort 
of Indian river, but I will only add that I have myself 
seen some remarkable evidences of the benefits which 
I)ersons of both sexes, having diseased lungs, have re- 
ceived there — benefits that proved lasting — with some 
yet more remarkable instances of persons so diseased 
that elsewhere they were in constant pain, who yet were 
able to live a prolonged and comfortable life in that 
singularly equable temperature. I likewise passed one 
summer upon the lagoon, and never found the heat op- 
pressive, as it was habitually tempered by a soft, gentle 
breeze. The only discomfort was the mosquito, against 
which, however, it was not difficult to guard by proper 
precautions. 

It is a misfortune that the real climate and general 
sanitary advantages of Indian river are not widely known 
to the thousands who suffer from weak lungs and bron- 
chial affections in the New England and Middle States. 

Tnos. Jordan. 



XI. 



FLORIDA, THE PROMISED LAND. 

A FEW months since, we resolved to leave onr 
native State, and settle on the banks of Indian 
river. Our chosen route led us overland, and journeying 
along in primitive style, we enjoyed rare opportunities 
of seeing Florida in many of her diiferent phases. 
Her scenery is of an exceedingly variegated character ; in 
some places picturesque, even grand ; in others, dull and 
dreary beyond description. Those who paint Florida 
wholly in radiant hues and flowery terms of praise, 
doubtless remember only some beauteous scenes which 
fill the memories with such fair pictures that other im- 
23ressions are overshadowed and forgotten. One can 
scarcely fancy a more lonely, deserted-looking region 
than that we often traversed, our road sometimes wind- 
ing many miles through a barren pine section, offering 
nothing new to our curious eyes except some hundreds 
of salamander beds, whitening the woods as far as we 
could see. Except at long intervals, no signs of other 
life, animal or human, enlivened the dull monotony of 
such scenes. But sometimes we came unexpectedly 
u pon something attractive. After journeying many miles 
til rough what seemed to us an endless stretch of narrov/, 
sandy road, winding through a limitless extent of pme 
woods, we were prepared, by force of contrast, to enjoy 



108 FLORIDA, THE PROMISED LAND. 

tLe magnificient view which met our delighted eyes as 
we crossed the Suwanee river — tlie old stream so inter- 
woven with recollections of the song, heard so often in 
days gone hy. As far as we could see, the banks were 
crowned with majestic water-oaks, whose rich dark- 
green foliage was beautifully silvered over with long gray 
moss drooping low to the water's edge. The slanting 
sunbeams lent a golden glory to the tree-tops, and we 
crossed the strongly flowing current, gazing in silent 
admiration at this new loveliness displayed by ever- 
varied nature. During our journey thence to Newnans- 
ville we passed many thrifty-looking farms, but the town 
itself seems fast going to decay. No new buildings 
attested prosperity and progress, and in most cases, 
the original ones were sadly in need of repair. The route 
onward to Gainsville seemed far less monotonous. We 
found it a thriving town, its main streets thronged by 
pedestrians and vehicles, while the coming and going of 
the railway trains imparted a sensation of nearness to, and 
connection with, the great busy, bustling, outside world. 
In passing from there to Orange Spring, we noticed 
many snug little farms, most of them new, and now 
we began to realize that we had entered the orange region 
of Florida, as there was scarcely a house not surrounded 
by orange trees in various stages of growth. Orange 
Spring appears to have once been a place of some note. 
The ruins of a large hotel mutely attest its former 
popularity as a place of resort, while its numerous com- 
fortable dwellings, and some new stores, show there is life 
in that region yet. Its situation is charming, crowning 
a considerable eminence, and considering its attractions, 
one does not wonder at its former fame. Its name is 
probably derived in part from a largo sulphur spring 



FLORIDA, THE PROMISED LAJfD. 109 

near by, a favorite resort in summer, when its waters are 
&aid to be delightfully cool and refreshing. This spring 
is nearly circular, about forty or fifty feet in diameter, 
and of a dark-green color. We spent a night in the 
village, with the widow of a Baptist minister, and shall 
not soon forget her hospitality, nor her quaint anecdotes. 
The kindness extended us during our long journey con- 
vinced us that, in spite of the' cant about the " cold, selfish 
world," there is much good- will throbbing in the great 
heart of humanity. The difficulty usually lies in not 
knowing just how to rouse it into action. In the vicin- 
ity of Orange Spring we noticed quite a number of 
ponds, but not the muddy, swamp-encircled ones usually 
seen in Florida. These lay here and there, looking 
^'like mirrors framed in green." The waving pines and 
luxuriant wire-grass grew to the water's edge. The sight 
of the St. Johns revived legendary memories of the dusky 
youths and maidens who doubtless once sailed gayly over 
its 1)eloved waters in their light canoes. But they have 
long since passed into the ^^Land of Shadows." 

Xot far eastward of Enterprise we passed the ruins of 
Spring Garden, once a farm of unusual dimensions. It 
was saddening to ride through the deserted fields, whose 
fences have long since disappeared, now being rapidly 
overgrown with a species of scrubby oak and pine. A 
lake of moderate extent, and abounding in fine mullet, 
is found within its borders. 

The strip of land lying immediately between the St. 
Johns and Indian rivers is a dismal-looking region, 
abounding in swampy flats and cabbage sloughs, and of 
necessity thinly inhabited. On arriving at Sand Point, 
however, we found a community of intelligent thorough- 
going people, one good hotel, and one excellent boarding- 



110 FLORIDA, THE PROMISED LAND. 

house, furnishing very acceptable accommodations to vis- 
itors. The proposed railway from there to Lake Harnee 
will add considerably to the interests of this country, 
and render Indian river far more easily and comfort- 
ably accessible to the settler, to the invalid, and to 
pleasure seekers wishing to explore its far-famed waters. 
This river, more correctly an arm of the sea, has been un- 
duly extolled by its friends, and proportionably defamed 
by its enemies. Thus many have, on arrival, been sur- 
prised agreeably or disagreeably, according to their pre- 
conceived ideas of its merits or demerits. Many regard 
this as a remote frontier country, almost inaccessible, pos- 
sessing few or no advantages, and as scarcely habitable. It 
seems not generally known that there are families scat- 
tered all along from Sand Point to Fort Capron, houses 
in many places being less than half a mile apart. Merritt's 
Island, too, is attracting considerable attention, and in a 
few years there will probably be an extensive population 
in this section. As to the character of society, I have met 
as well-bred ladies and gentlemen here as I ever saw in 
any community. Many of the citizens represent some 
of the best families of Georgia, Alabama, and other States. 
A few objectionable characters will be found anywhere, 
and our country doesn't claim to be entirely exceptional 
in that respect. 

Two or three ministers having now located among us, 
we can thus once more hear the Gospel proclaimed, and 
as settlers are moving in so rapidly, there is good reason 
to suppose that we will, before a great while, see flour- 
ishing schools and churches established. 

Indian ri\fcr is always beautiful ; Avhen its waters are 
placid as some inland lake, or when its waves are crested 
with foam, and furiously lashing its rocky shore. The 



FLORIDA, THE PROMISED LAls'D. Ill 

roar of the ocean is distinctly audible at our home, and 
since living here, I can form some faint conception of 
the emotions wliich stirred the soul of the author of the 
*' Murmuring Sea." I cannot better describe the cli- 
mate of this favored land than to use Moore's words, 
" Its air is balm," and for the most part, the atmosphere 
is pure and refreshing to a delightful degree. On the 
western shore the scenery has quite a tropical air, owing 
to a profusion of cabbage palmettoes, resembling palms. 
The eastern side presents a decided contrast, the high 
white and yellow bluff being crowned principally with 
the pine. 

In this semi-tropical region, the principal occupation 
of the people is fruit-growing. The orange, of course, 
takes precedence over other fruits, and we believe there 
will be a great demand for Indian river oranges, when 
once their superior sweetness and flavor shall become 
generally known. Many of us expect to make the citron 
and guava profitable. And judging from the growth of 
young fig-trees here, we expect to eventually ^^reap our 
reward " for the attention bestowed on them. By a lit- 
tle judicious pains-taking we can gather fresh vegetables 
from our gardens all the year round. Northern invalids 
are beginning to test the benefits of our winter climate, 
and in some cases with happy effect ; some, however, 
defer coming until some fell disease has sapped their 
vital powers too strongly for them ever to be renovated ; 
and so they come too late. 

Many of the Indian river residents are enlarging 
their dwellings, for the purpose of accommodating visi- 
tors during another season. Lack of necessary means is 
the grand difficulty which cripples the efforts and ener- 
gies of many who might otherwise get up elegant hotels 



112 FLOItlDA, TJIE PKOMI.SED LAND. 

ami i^rivatc ])oardiiig houses. However, there are some 
rough, uninviting looking buildings, where the travelling 
public will find witliin, neat, comfortable bed-rooms, 
and good, wholesome fare. The '* finest oysters in the 
world " can be had in abundance during the winter sea- 
son ; fish can be had all the year round, venison is abun- 
dant, and a great variety of fruits flourish, while there 
are countless other objects to please the eye and gratify 
the taste for what is truly beautiful. 

Many varieties of pretty shells can be found on the 
ocean beach. Sometimes one finds a sort of spiral case 
containing hundreds of diminutive shells. These make 
pretty necklaces, resembling white coral. The delicate 
flesh tint of these shells makes them beautiful, while 
their frailty insures their being carefully cherished. 
Just now, we Indian river citizens are compelled to live 
in a style not according to our former habits of life, or 
present desires, but we trust the day is not far distant 
when, instead of rude dwellings situated in the native 
wilds, the visitor here will behold handsome residences 
in the midst of grounds tastefully and lavishly adorned 
with all the different fruits, flowers, and evergreens which 
this climate is capable of producing. 

C. B. Magruder. 



XII. 
FORT CAPRON. 

HAYING served about two years in South Florida 
during the last Seminole, or "Billy Bowlegs'' 
war, I think I may safely assert that Fort Capron, op- 
posite Indian Riyer Inlet, is the very place for a sports- 
man's hotel. Its mild and salubrious climate, together 
with the abundance of fruit, game, and fish to be found 
in its immediate yicinity, render it a place of unsur- 
passed attractions for both sportsman and invalid. 
There is absolutely no endemic disease at this place. 
Its mild, genial climate banishes all coughs, colds, and 
rheumatisms, while a line of hills in its rear effectually 
intercept the malarial exhalations of the fresh-water 
swamps of the interior. The chlorinated vapors 
brought by the trade-winds, which are constantly 
blowing from the sea, also exercise their powerful 
sanitary influence. The abundance of game and fish in 
the vicinity of Fort Capron is truly astonishing. Dur- 
ing the prolonged period that I was stationed at that 
fort we were never, in the proper season, without game, 
fish, oysters, or green turtle. The fish found in the 
vicinity are red-fins (a species of drum, commonly called 
"red bass," the "rouge "of the Creole French about 
New Orleans), red-snapper, sheepshead, cavalli, sea 
trout, sea-mullet, and the far-famed pompano. These 



114 FOKT C APRON. 

two last-mentioned fish do not take a bait. There arc 
also two other remarkable fish inhabiting Indian river 
and the adjacent coast, whose scientitic naipes I am 
nnaware of. These are called b}' the natives the Jew- 
ish and the tarpum. The former sometimes at- 
tains a weight of two or three hundred ])ounds, and 
resembles a bass in its general contour, while the latter 
presents more the appearance of a dace. The tar- 
pum, owing to its graceful outlines and lustrous color- 
ing, is a fish of most surpassing beauty. The scales on 
its sides are about the size and the brilliancy of a silver 
dollar, out of which the native females fabricate beauti- 
ful baskets. AVhen a school of these fish are disporting 
themselves upon the surface of the waves, as is their 
frequent habit, the bright reflections from their sides 
produce an effect not unlike that presented by the bur- 
nished arms of a squad of soldiers at drill. This fish 
attains a length of about five or six feet, but is not so 
heavy as the jew-fish. The bar at Indian River Inlet is 
an unrivalled locality for short sjieariug, for those who 
are fond of that thrilling amusement. I have myself, 
in a common '^ Whitehall " boat, aided in harpooning 
fifteen or twenty in a morning. The rivers and creeks 
emptying into Indian river are filled with black bass 
(miscalled ** black trout " by the natives). This species 
of black bass reach a much greater size than any other 
species of this fish I have ever met with. I have taken 
them weighing in the neighborhood of ten pounds, and 
I have seen others swimming in the watei-, that seemed 
to be almost as large again. Like the bass of the Ui)per 
Mississippi and lakes of Minnesota, and unlike the bass 
at present inhabiting the Potomac and its tributaries, it 
will readly rise to spoon or fly. They are a])t to have a 



FORT C APRON. 115 

grassy taste during the summei*, biit as winter ap- 
proaches they have as fine a flavor as any other fish of 
the genus. The streams which they inhabit, flowing as 
they do through the sandy S(nl of the "pine barrens," 
which contains but little sediment, are almost as trans- 
parent as the celebrated trout brooks of New England. 
Indian river, so called, is not properly a river ; but 
rather a sound or salt-water lagoon, beirig separated 
from the ocean by a narrow strip of sandy land over- 
grown with palmettoes and mangroves. It is about one 
hundred and fifty miles long, and ranges from several 
miles to forty yards in width. On the east it is fed by 
several inlets from the sea, through which the tide ebbs 
and flows freely. Several large rivers enter it from the 
west, the principal of v/hicli are the San Sebastian, 
Santa Lucia, and Locha Hatchee. No country that I 
have ever visited alfords as great a variety of game and 
fish as South Florida. Besides large game, such as 
bear, deer, turkeys, etc., this region literally swarms 
with snipe and ducks, at least during the winter months. 
Partridges (bob whites) are also sufficiently numerous to 
afford sport ; but I have never seen a woodcock in that 
section. The snipe shooting on the savannahs is simply 
superb. These savannahs (or natural meadows) afford 
sufficient moisture to attract the birds, without being 
so miry as to render the walking difficult or fatiguing, 
as is so often the case at points further north. On one 
of these snipe grounds of many hundred acres in ex- 
tent, several miles in rear of Fort Capron, I used to 
enjoy most delightful sport, seldom returning without 
a full bag. 

I would advise sportsmen desirous of snipe shooting 
in that section, to take pointers instead of setters, for 



116 FOKT CAPKOX. • 

the long liair of tlicse latter is likely to harbor the 
numerous sanguinivorous insects which there abound ; 
its mild climate is also more suitable to the nature of 
the pointer. 

Your correspondent Fred Beverly makes honorable 
mention of a gallant exploit of one of liis followers whom 
he calls Jim. Now, if he alludes to ^^Jim" Kussell, 
of Fort Capron (and I am pretty sure he does), I am 
happy to state that I am well acquainted with "Jim," 
and have had many. a jolly day's sport in his company. 
During a sail-boat trip to Merrit's Island, in company 
with Lieutenant, now General, Jeff. C. Davis, of Captain 
Jack notoriety, and several others, among whom was 
our hero, we had occasion to take along a famous pointer 
of mine. Old Nat by name, for the purpose of vary- 
ing our amusement by a little snipe shooting. Now, 
although Old Nat's moral status was none of the best, 
for he would " steal like a quartermaster," yet his 
admirable hunting qualities made him a great favorite 
with all. Like most of his species, he was very fond of 
consulting his own comfort and convenience. At the 
fort he was accustomed to sleep in a nice shady spot on 
my porch, and seeing a similar locality on the boat, 
produced by the shadow of the main-sail, he soon 
ensconced himself therein. After getting through with 
his snooze, and thinking himself, no doubt, still in his 
accustomed spot at home, he suddenly got up, and, 
much to our surprise and dismay, leaped overboard. As 
there was a violent gale blowing at the time, the '* white 
caps " running angrily, and, furtliermore, as the dog's 
chain soon became entangled with his legs, his peril 
became extreme. We luffed up promptly ; but in spite 
of all our efforts the fate of the dog seemed sealed. 



• FORT C APRON-. 117 

when ** Jim," throwing off his coat, boldly plunged into 
the seething, surging waves. A few strokes brought 
him near enough to lay hold of the collar of the drown- 
ing dog, but owing to the helpless condition of the 
latter he could not make much progress on his return to 
the boat. Owing to the increased violence of the storm, 
we now became aware of the alarming fact that we 
were slowly but surely, falling to leeward, and our 
fears now became excited for Jim's safety also. We 
shouted to him to abandon the dog and save himself ; 
but the gallant fellow would not do it. By letting the 
sail fall and using the oars with desperate energy, we 
were enabled to hold the boat in a stationary position, 
so that Jim, swimming with one arm and aided by the 
waves, succeeded, after a desperate struggle, in coming 
alongside with the dog. I soon pulled them both in, 
and we all applauded ** Jim" for his manly daring; 
but to this day ** Jeff " swears that I pulled the dog in 
first ; but this however, I can never bring myself to 
agree to. 

Asa Wall. 



XIIL 
FISHING AT ST. AUGUSTIOTl. 

ST. AUGUSTINE is a quaint old Spanish city, for a 
long time dull and quiet, but now waking up with 
the influx of Northern people, many of whom have built 
stately and beautiful residences for their winter sojourn. 
For real enjoyment, St. Augustine far surpasses any 
other part of Florida. You avoid the bustle of business 
in Jacksonville, as well as its sharp frosts and hot days ; 
you are not ^' out of the world," as at Enterprise, nor is 
it so warm. The climate is charming ; a happy medium ; 
nor is it so variable as at most other places in Florida. 
Frost is almost unknown ; also, extreme heat. You 
have good hotels, your daily mail, and, though the 
** morning papers " do not reach you until the afternoon, 
still, you are " in the world," while the facilities for 
boating, hunting, and fishing are unsurpassed. The bay 
is beautiful, and affords a fine opportunity for sailing. 
Whether your party tries the Osceola, or belle of 
the bay, of Mr. Ivanowski (ne Sweeney), the Water 
Witch " of Captain Walton, or any of the smaller craft 
in the harbor, you can enjoy a pleasant and comfortable 
sail under safe pilotage. While for fishing, one has but 
to go to the sea-wall, or the long wharf, or take a skiff 
or a canoe and push out in the bay, and there will be 
no want of sport. The only drawback is the universal 



FISHING AT ST. AUGUSTII^-E. 119 

prevalence of the catfish, which is of all sizes, from the 
tiny youngster of three inches to the full-grown pater- 
familias of two feet or more. These are of a gray color, 
and shaped like their Northern brethren, but covered 
with a thick, tough slime, just as the eels of the North 
are, and the result is, your hook, line, and fingers — and 
often clothes — get covered with this sticky substance. 
Your hook and line must be thoroughly cleansed, or no 
other fish will touch it ; your hands and clothes are at 
your option. Another favorite fishing place is from the 
bridge over the San Sebastian, just at the back of the 
town. At any or all of these places you can catch bass, 
trout, sheepshead, mullet, flounders, sharks, and many 
other varieties. 

One of the pleasantest amusements is fishing in the 
surf for bass. The modus operandi of this sport is some- 
what as follows : 

Remember that I am giving the custom of the coun- 
try, and shall not be surprised if the scientific bass-fishers, 
who rejoice in forty-dollar reels and sixty-dollar rods with 
agate-mounted tips and rings, are somewhat disgusted. 
The line ordinarily used is nearly as thick as a cod-line, 
and about 50 yards long. A sinker, weighing about a 
half or three-quarters of a pound — with a hole through 
it — is strung on the line, and is kept there by a large 
knot on its end. Below this knot, and attached to the 
line proper by a somewhat smaller cord, is the hook — a 
cod-hook being generally used, or one a little smaller. 

The fisherman is usually clad in an old flannel shirt, 
woollen trousers, and old, loose boots — with a broad-leaved 
straw or felt hat. The bait used is a string of mullet, 
procured at the early market (price five cents), Avhich 
is cut into chunks about an inch square. Thus equipped, 



120 FISHING AT ST, AUGUSTINE. 

and with the end of the line tied around the waist, or to 
his wrist to prevent its escape as it flies out, and neatly 
coiled in his left hand to run off easily, and with a yard 
or two above the sinker hanging from his riglit hand, 
the fisherman wades into the surf, about waist deep, and 
swinging the sinker around his head, launches it out as 
far as he can, and then draws it gradually in, so as to 
keep the bait moving. "When he feels a bite he gives a 
jerk, to hook the fish, and, if successful, he puts the 
line over his shoulder, and starts for the beach, going as 
fast as he can — for if he lets the line slack, he will proba- 
bly lose his fish. On emerging from the water he runs out 
on the beach and drags the fish upon the sand, where he 
secures it — and, re-baiting his hook, starts for another 
throw. The hook, or hooks — sometimes two or more are 
used — are put on a smaller piece of line, on account of 
the abundance of small sharks, which literary swarm in 
the breakers, where the bass and other fish most do con- 
gregate, and are very apt to seize the bait and break the 
line, carrying off sinker and all, if it breaks above it. 
The sinker is perforated so that the bite can easily be 
felt, the line readily slipping through it. The surf is 
about fifty yards from tlie edge of the beach, there being 
a line of shoal about that distance, over wliich the waves 
break. Between this and the shore the water is shallow; 
about thigh-deep at low tide, and the fisherman wades out 
to the bank. As the tide rises he is obliged to come in, 
the surf breaking all the way to the shore when the water 
is two or three feet deep on the bar. It is not a very 
comfortable feeling to turn when on the shoal, and see a 
shark or two swimming up and down between you and 
the shore — especially if you have a bite and are making 
for the beach. But they are very shy, and quickly get 



FISHING AT ST. AUGUSTIN-E. 121 

out of the way. I never heard of any one being bitten. 
They are usually about three or four feet long, and are 
often caught. Still they are unpleasant neighbors. I 
remember one day, before a storm, when the water was 
dark and I could not see, while standing about waist-deep 
in this '* middle ground," and fishing busily, feeling a 
sudden sharp nip on the ankle. I sprang clear of the 
water, for I thought it was a shark. But it was only a 
large sea-crab, which pinches powerfully. Fortunately, 
I had on very heavy pantaloons, so no damage was done 
— but the shock was tremendous, for sharks are very 
bold in dark water. 

There are many large sharks and sword or saw-fish 
in the bay, and during the summer they are caught for 
the oil contained in their livers. From ten to twenty 
fish is about a fair afternoon's catch '' during the season" 
— so they say. 

Speaking of the bass-fishing in the surf reminds me 
of a somewhat ludicrous incident which is said to have 
occurred to one of our distinguished generals, just after 
the war. It seems a party were fishing at Brazos, in 
the Gulf, somewhat in the manner I have just described, 
and the General feeling a bite, started with the line over 
his shoulder in orthodox style for the beach, and ran 
out hauling his line. In course of time the fish was 
drawn out, and to the amazement of the General and 
the amusement of the rest of the party, proved to be only 
about six inches long. It is needless to say that the 
General's champagne suffered that evening, but the story 
leaked out nevertheless. So much for the fish. 

Quail are plenty in the neighborhood of St. Augus- 
tine, and within a few miles deer and wild turkey are 
abundant ; while occasionally one gets a chance for a 
6 



122 FISHING AT ST. AUGUSTINE. 

" scrimmage " with a bear or panther. As to wild fowl, 
'* their name is legion " ; shore birds of all kinds, ducks, 
geese, herons, et id omne gejms, can be had with a rea- 
sonable degree of trouble. Enough sport can be found 
in the neighborhood of St. Augustine to reward the 
most ardent sportsman ; and I know of no place this 
side of Humboldt Bay, in California, where so many 
facilities for hunting and fishing are oifered, or where the 
variety of game, fish, flesh, and fowl, is so great, or where a 
few weeks may be more agreeably passed by the sportsman. 



^•'* 



XIV. 

BASS FISHING ON" SPRUCE CREEK. 

HEARING great stories of the size of the black bass, 
or trout, as they are called by the Floridians, in 
Spruce creek, a tributary of tlie Halifax river, I left 
New Smyrna with a boat and guide on the 23d of April, 
at 9 A. M., to test the truth of these fish stories. We 
sailed down the Hillsboro with a westerly breeze to the 
inlet, called Mosquito from the abundance of that 
familiar insect, and passing through a narrow gut 
between two sand-bars, we saw a large turtle of the 
loggerhead kind, which having been crippled by the 
attack of a shark which had bitten off half of one hind 
flipper, had crawled upon the sand. It weighed proba- 
bly one hundred pounds, and could have easily been 
captured, but we had no use for it at the time. Cross- 
ing the inlet, we laid our course up the Halifax, into 
which, near its mouth. Spruce creek flows. At this 
place it is wide and shallow, winding through extensive 
marshes and mangrove islands, and much encumbered 
by oyster banks, many of which stretch across the 
stream. These oysters are large and well flavored, and 
so abundant that hundreds of vessels could be loaded 
with them. Sailed up the creek for two miles, meeting 
only one boat, which was shark fishing. Then we 
stopped to get bait, and Lewis, my guide, with a few 
casts of his net, procured for me a dozen mullet, the 



124 BASS FISHING ON SPRUCE CREEK. 

usual bait for all fishes iu this rcgiou. Sailed on four 
miles further, when the Ijanks l)egan to be higher, and 
wooded, and tlie water grew fresli, when I put out a 
trolling line with mullet bait, and caught a red fish or 
channoi bass of five pounds, and two salt-water trout of 
two pounds each {Corvina ocellata and Otolitus Caroli- 
iicnsis). Here on the east side of the creek we found a 
blull of coquina rock, some fifty feet high, covered with 
forest trees, and with its sides washed by water into 
curious forms. The river at its base is very deep, and is 
said to contain large fish, especially snappers and 
groupers. About a mile above this bluff, having put 
out a second line with a spoon, I took Avith it my first 
black bass ; it was of about two pounds' Aveight, and made 
the leaps characteristic of the species. Next I got a red- 
fish of about the same size. I observe these fish caught 
in fresh water are higher colored than those of salt 
water, the back being of a rich dark brown, and the 
sides of bright copper color. The salt-water trout taken 
here are also of deeper colors, with larger spots than 
those taken in the salt water. Three miles further, rain 
coming on, we stopped and camped, about 4 p. M., at a 
bluff on the Avest side, Avhere the King's road, one hun- 
dred years ago, ran from St. Augustine down the coast. 
After the shoAver aa'C roAved up the ri\-er a mile, and got 
half a dozen more black bass, and lost several by their 
habit of shaking out the hook as they leap. I got two 
dogfish {Amia calva), a AATstern acquaintance, and not a 
A'alued one, as this fish, though interesting to naturalists 
from being the only representative of an old Avorld 
family, is Avorthless as food, and makes himself so odious 
by cutting lines and breaking hooks, that the angler 
regrets that it should have survived its kindred. 



BASS FISHING OK SPRUCE CREEK. 125 

We swung our hammocks between two trees by the 
fire, and after a supper of bass, with bread and coffee, 
should have slept sweetly but for a band of hungry 
mosquitoes which, lighted by the moonbeams, found us 
out and sung in our ears their detestable song. Next 
morning we started at sunrise, and trolled up the creek 
with hand line and rod and reel, both having spoons 
attached. On the hand line Buel's propeller, in white 
metal ; and on the reel line two brass fliers revolving 
round a brass wire ; the latter seemed to be the favorite, 
and took more and larger fish. Got back to camp at 
8 A. M., with twenty-five black bass and four red-fish. 
The former were from one to three pounds' weight, and 
the latter of about the same size ; we lost three bass by 
shaking loose the hook. As the weather looked threat- 
ening, we broke camp and returned down the river, tak- 
ing four more bass by the way. We got entangled 
among the oyster banks at low tide, and lost an hour, 
the rain falling heavily. When we got out of these shal- 
lows, we set our sail to the breeze, and went down the 
river flying, almost running over a large alligator which 
lay on the mud, as we rounded a point. As we emerged 
into the broad Halifax, we saw two objects on the further 
bank Avhich looked, at the distance of half a mile, like 
bears, but being quite near a house, Lewis thought they 
must be black hogs feeding along the beach, though they 
looked too large for hogs of this region. We learned 
afterward that bears had repeatedly been seen on this 
very spot, and had carried off hogs from the man who 
lived there. So that if we had sailed down upon them, 
my guide having his rifle and hound in the boat, might 
probably have killed one or both. 

Having caught these black bass ( Grystes salmoides) in 



126 BASS FISniXG ON- SPRUCE CREEK. 

three rivers in Florida, the St. John, the Tomoka, and 
Spruce creek, I find them to be of abont the average 
size of the same species in tlie western waters, viz., from 
two to three pounds ; and although they may grow 
larger here than in the western lakes and rivers, yet I 
am inclined to think that those weighing from fifteen to 
twenty pounds, said to have been taken here, were esti- 
mated rather than weighed. 

S. C. Clarke. 



XV. 

HUNTING THE PANTHER. 

TO the average Florida tourist, who sails luxuriously 
up the St. John's, or stays idling at the hotel, the 
idea that there are predatory animals in the State rarely 
occurs. It is only to the camper-out that the privilege 
of making their acquaintance is vouchsafed. If he 
camp in a place sufficiently remote from civilization he 
will probably be favored with a sight at the animal men- 
tioned above. It is more than likely that he will be 
favored with its moaning cry, or see its signs about his 
camp. The panther is so rarely seen, however, that it 
is regarded as mythical by many men professing to be 
hunters. It has been my rare good fortune to meet 
with, and be in at the death of one, and soon after the 
demise of several others. There is a vast difference 
existing between this panther, tiger, or puma, and the 
wild-cat, or l3Tix. The latter animal, and another, the 
catamount, occur in Florida, but are not half the size of 
the panther. The latter has been found measuring nine 
feet from tip to tip. I have seen one measuring eight 
feet four inches, and have the skin of one measuring 
eight feet good. In color, the panther is a yellowish- 
brown, darker on the baok, growing to a yellowish- 
white on the belly. It has great strength, and no pack 
of dogs can successfully attack one. It frequents the 



128 HUNTIN-Q THE PANTHER. 

swamps and hammocks during the day, and seeks its 
prey hy night. Old liunters say it remains concealed in 
the large trees, ready to drop upon unwary travellers. 
Its tracks may be frequently seen in the woods back of 
Indian river, or interior. I have been told that an 
animal larger than this, spotted and striped — in fact, 
the regular tiger — was seen near New Smyrna, but this 
is the only related instance, and not likely to prove 
correct. This animal is more generally known by the 
name of tiger than any other, and as such is spoken of 
with dread by the ''crackers." The only panther I 
ever had a hand in killing was a goodly sized one near 
Hope Sound. I was camped at St. Sebastian creek, and 
having with me the prince of boatmen, Jim R, lacked 
not in either fish or game. But duck and fish were not 
enough to satisfy, even in the abundance provided there 
by a lavish nature, and I cast about for some new 
diversion. 

It was at this period that Jim suggested we should 
go down the river and secure the skeleton of a manatee 
we had discovered a month previous. It was just the 
thing, and we were soon sailing down river with a fair 
wind. It was about fifty miles, and we camped that 
night a dozen miles from our destination. AVhen we 
awoke next morning we discovered that our whole stock 
of pork was missing. Further search revealed the 
tracks of a panther, and, connecting the circumstances, 
we were at no loss to account for the absence of the 
pork. The most aggravating circumstance was, tliat 
the theft had been committed while we had a dog in the 
camp, whose sole purpose was^ to guard our })roperty. It 
was useless to follow up the trail, as it was soon lost, and 
we left camp and entered the Narrows, beneath the 



HUiq"TI2q"G THE PANTHER. 129 

shade of India rubber and palm. The manatee we 
were in search of had been discovered in a decomposed 
state, so, as it was securely lodged in a bend of the 
channel, we had left it to the tender mercies of a 
coroner's jury of vultures, intending to return for it 
later. ]N"ow we had returned, and making our boat fast 
over the spot where we supposed the ivory lay, we pro- 
ceeded to business. As the only method of getting it 
was by diving, and the water swarmed with the ugliest 
alligators ever seen by mortal man, there was no rivalry 
between Jim and myself — in fact, Jim desired to give 
me precedence ; he was perfectly willing I should take 
the lead in the way of diving, and developed a new 
feature in his disposition. Around our camp fire he 
always manifested a disposition to secure a front seat 
when the pork and flapjacks came along, but now a 
change had come over him, and my impetuous Jim 
seemed inclined to resign the role of leader, and be 
content with that of follower. But I was not at all 
desirous of securing glory at his expense, and so he 
went overboard first and I followed. The water was 
about neck deep, and rather cold. Our mode of opera- 
tion was to wade about, feeling the mud beneath us with 
our feet for the ivory. Occasionally we would assume 
the position of ducks feeding in shallow water, groping 
about the mud with our hands. With our heads under 
water we might have reminded a disinterested spectator 
— though there was not another white man in a radius 
of a dozen miles — of the ostrich who thought so long as 
his head was covered his extremities were secure. But 
we didn't think so, for we were constantly thinking of 
our unprotected parts, and we often wondered whether 



130 HUKTINQ TUB PANTHER. 

the saying that an alligator wouldn't bite a white man 
were true. 

It was upon coming up from such a position as I 
liave described tliat I heard a low growl from our dog, a 
huge old mastiff, whom we had left aboard the boat. 
Following the direction of his fixed and eager gaze, I 
saw, as soon as the water had cleared from my eyes, a 
huge, cat-like animal stealthily moving among tlie man- 
groves on shore. I remember getting a glimpse of a 
burning pair of eyes, and then I imitated the ostrich 
before alluded to, and stuck my head under water and 
started for the boat. Jim had seen the animal at about 
the same time, and although I started first for the boat, 
he had reached it first, being much nearer. 

Snatching my double-barrelled breech-loader, and 
slipping in a couple of buckshot cartridges, he jumped 
into his breeches and then jumped ashore, and 
was far on the trail of panther and dog before I had 
equipped myself for the race. Putting on pants and 
moccasins, I took a large bowie knife, the only available 
weapon, and insanely followed on the trail. It was long 
and circuitous, but I finally found them — Jim and the 
dog — a mile or so from the boat. I knew from the 
silence of the dog, some time before I reached them, 
that the panther was treed, and did not need Jim's 
information to that effect. It was in a small hammock 
of an acre or so that tliey had brought him to bay, and 
after closely reconnoitring we concluded he would be 
likely to stay till dark, and that it would be best for 
one of us to return and get some more ammunition and 
the rest of our clotlies. Accordingly, I remained guard- 
ing the hammock until Jim returned with the necessary 
articles. Taking courage, from a small stock we had 



HtJKTIN-G THE PAKTHER. 131 

by us in a small bottle, we proceeded to make a 
thorough and systematic search for the panther. 

The hammock was in the pine woods, and was just 
snch a one as is common in the Florida pine barrens — a 
collection of oaks and other deciduous trees, with an 
abundance of vines and undergrowth. 

We proceeded but slowly, for neither of us cared to 
meet the animal without an introduction, and it was 
late in the afternoon when we approached the centre of 
the clump toward which we had been steadily working. 
We had held the dog back all this time, for fear he would 
cause the beast to take refuge in another hammock, but 
but no sooner had we reached this central clumj^ of old 
oaks and tangled briers, than he dashed madly forward 
and wildly clawed at the bark of a huge old oak some 
forty yards away. A panther in a tree is a trouble- 
some thing to see, especially after the sun has dipped 
below the horizon ; and again, the color of a panther so 
assimilates with that of the rough brown bark that it 
takes a sharp eye to detect one, even when you know 
he is there. 

Guided by Jim's finger, I saw two fiery eyes gleaming 
from over a large limb, close to the trunk of the tree. 
Ugh ! how they pierced me. They seemed to burn me 
through and througli. Following down I soon saw the 
animal's tail, nervously working from side to side. His 
body was hidden behind the tree. 

'^ There" said Jim, *^you take the gun and shoot 
just below his eyes. If you do that you'll likely hit him 
in the throat." 

^' No, Jim, I think you can do this business best ; 
you see I am not not much in the panther line, anyhow." 

"'No, you be hanged ! you can shoot better'n I can 



132 HUNTING THE PANTHER. 

with that gun, and besides, you can hit him as he jumps, 
for you're good on the wing, you know. I'll stand ready 
to stick liini when he falls, old boy, an' Til fix him if 
you don't." 

So saying, he handed me the gun and took the bowie. 
I always had thought I should like to kill a panther, and 
had often pictured to myself a panther in my clutches, 
with my left hand ]u)ld of his tongue and my right in tlic 
act of plunging a knife into his tliroat. But now the 
supreme moment had arrived I was actually shaking with 
fear, or something akin, and refusing the high honor of 
killing one. But 1 knew that, as Jim had said, it was 
best that I should start the panther up nnd leave to him 
the coup de grace. Settling myself to this, I tried, by a 
desperate effort, to quiet my nerves. Securing a posi- 
tion behind the trunk of a palmetto, I rested the gun 
against it and sighted just below tliose blazing orbs. It 
was an eventful moment. It was to fire or not to fire — 
to leave the panther unprovoked, or arouse a terrible 
destructive power that nothing but death would allay. 
My hand yet trembled, and I let tlie barrels fall ; but, 
with a powerful effort, I held the sight upon the panther's 
throat again and fired. With the report came a howl of 
anfj^uish and a rushins^ noise as thehus^e animal launclied 
himself into the air. There were no shaking limbs now, 
but with nerves and muscles tense, I held my gun upon 
him, and stopped him midway his leap, as it were. I 
have shot birds when their flight was so swift tiiat their 
wings seemed a misty film, but never, it seemed to me, 
had I such speed and velocity to overcome before. 

He* fell nearly at my feet, and the dog was upon liim 
ere he had hardly touched the ground. The growling, 
snarling, and snapping that ensued was horrible beyond 



HUNTING THE PAKTHER. 133 

description, but it struck no terror to the heart of my 
guide, for, watcliing his opj^ortunity, he rushed in and 
plunged the long bowie almost to the hilt in the pan- 
ther's side. Groaning and gasping for breath, the ani- 
mal tottered, fell upon his side and yielded at last, over- 
come by superior numbers. We skinned him that night 
by the light of a fire of light wood. The skull, with two 
broken fangs, a paw and the claws, are in my cabinet 
now, and they are ready to vouch for this story, even as 
the man was willing to show the pen he wrote the letter 
with. My first shot had broken two of his fangs, and the 
second had broken a fore-leg, besides wounding him 
internally. 

The panther is a cowardly animal, and will not attack 
man. This refers to the Southern panther — but in- 
stances are well authenticated where it has followed 
women and children, evidently with murder in its heart. 
Indeed, I remember now an incident related by a settler, 
of a negro child being devoured by a panther, but cannot 
recall the locality of the occurrence. They are fond of 
hogs, however, and will often risk considerable to cap- 
ture a good porker — a rarity, by the way, in Florida. 
The day before my arrival at the Kissimmee river a 
panther came up to a settler's cabin in broad daylight, 
and carried of, a full-grown sow, the mother of a large 
family, before the eyes of the settler's wife and children. 
The next day dogs were gathered, and a hunt instituted 
that resulted in the death of the panther, a huge eight- 
footer. 

Near Fort Drum, in the interior of Florida, panthers 
have been very troublesome of late years, and are often 
killed there. That they will kill dogs, I have the testi- 
mony of an old guide and hunter, who described to me 



134 HUNTING THE PANTHER. 

an "accident" happening to liis dog upon the very place 
where we then camped. He said lie was camped there, 
had his mosquito bar pitched, and had gone to sleep. 
Something, lie knew not what, awoke him, just in time to 
see a dark body leap over his bar and pounce upon the 
dog. There was a short struggle, and then the worthy 
guide was minus a good dog. He didn't take part in 
the fight, but was a quiet, if not disinterested, spectator. 
Sometimes they will manifest the utmost contempt 
for man, and will seem to take delight in keeping him in 
suspense. An old "live-oaker" told me that he came 
upon two panthers in a narrow trail, and that they 
walked ahead of him to the shore of the river, where 
one of them sat down and refused to move. Upon his 
companion throwing a "chunk of light wood," at it, it 
merely started a little, and snarled in a Avay that con- 
vinced the two live-oakers that it "wasn't goin' to stan' 
no nonsense." They left him there. Another live-oaker, 
a chopper, was engaged in squaring a fallen tree, when a 
full-grown panther came up and quietly carried away his 
dinner, which lay upon the other end of the log. This 
act, though very gracefully and daintily done,^o alarmed 
the man that he dropped his axe and ran into camp, a 
mile or more. But the panther devoured his dinner. 

Fred Beverly. 



XVI. 

THE ENVIEONS OF TALLAHASSEE. 

rriHE City of Tallahassee, the capital of the State 
JL of Florida, is situated iu Leon county, about thirty 
miles north of the Gulf of Mexico, and half-way between 
the eastern and western limits of the State. Tallahassee 
is an Indian word, and signifies ^^ old fields." The 
present site of the city was perhaps long ago the corn- 
fields of the savages. It is situated upon the broad, flat 
top of a hill, and is about a mile in length, by three- 
eighths m breadth. Its people are hospitable, refined, 
polite, and very sociable ; and the stranger visiting there 
will receive more attention than at any other city in the 
South. It is a very paradise for bachelors, on account 
of the number, the beauty, and the charming manners 
of the ladies. The climate is very pleasant, and the 
number of soft, warm ''Indian summer" days during 
the winter, is very great — and, though a fire is necessary 
in the evenings, yet, during the day the visitor can re- 
main almost entirely in the open air with comfort and 
pleasure. 

To the sportsman, the prospect is admirable. In 
every direction, for miles from the town, are wide fields, 
which 'swarm with quail. A fair day's shooting — allow- 
mg the sportsman to take his breakfast at a reasonable 
hour, and start leisurely, returning for supper at dark — 



136 THE EXYIROXS OF TALLAHASSEE. 

for a good sliot, and with a good dog, is not less than 
from sixty to one hundred and forty birds. The coveys 
are all large, and often two or more are found in one 
liold. In tlie noighhorliood of the town are many small 
lakes, in which duck and other wild fowl are plentiful, 
while at Lakes Lafayette and Jackson, six miles distant, 
and some miles in extent, there is good fishing ""as well 
as good shooting. About two miles from town, and 
on a high hill, which lies between several small lakes, is 
a favorite resort for duck-shooters — as the birds are 
continually passing and repassing from lake to lake. 
There is abundance of accommodation in the city, and 
tlie young gentlemen take pleasure in giving the sports- 
man all necessary information and assistance. Horses 
and vehicles are readily obtained. Deer are often killed 
within a few miles of the town, as well as wild turkeys. 

St. Mark's, but an hour's ride from the city by rail, 
is on the Gulf ; and the fishing and wild fowl shooting 
is of the best Boats and assistants are easily had. 

One of the pleasantest trips, is a visit to the famous 
Wakulla Spring — which lies about sixteen miles from 
Tallahassee, almost due south — and out of which flows 
the Wakulla river, a stream a hundred feet wide, and 
three feet deep, with a two-mile current where it leaves 
the spring. The route, with the exception of a few 
miles near Tallahassee, is through the pine woods, which 
extend to the very edge of the spring ; though, as the 
ground begins to fall, there is a considerable intermixture 
of otlicr varieties of timber, and a heavy undergrowth. 
The AVakulla Spring is about fifty yards long, by seventy- 
five broad, and is famous for the transparency of its 
waters. Floating in a boat on its surface, one seems 
suspended in mid air — and, when the day is perfectly 



THE ENVIROITS OF TALLAHASSEE. 137 

calm, the water smooth and the sun bright, the ilhision 
is perfect. The ordinary depth of the spring is eighty- 
five feet, and objects on its bottom can be seen ahnost 
as plainly as if held in the hand. Visitors usually take 
with them small, round, bright pieces of tin, which 
appear like tiny mirrors lying on the bottom, which is 
smooth and covered with a fine white sand. On the 
western side is a broad ledge or cliff of rock, the top 
of which is sixty-five feet below the surface. At the 
edge of this cliif the water is black, and I found bottom 
at a little over one hundred and twenty-five feet. Out 
of this Gulf the stream seems to gush, and one can see 
the fish floating over in front of it, steadily maintaining 
their position — though the somewhat quick motion of 
the fins and tail show the resistance they are obliged to 
overcome. 

The water is impregnated with limestone, and is icy 
cold. One or two persons who have experimented in 
swimming in this spring, after a few seconds' immersion, 
became so benumbed as to require assistance to get back 
into the boat. The sides of the spring are very steep ; 
being almost perpendicular for some distance below the 
surface. The river leading from the spring is full of 
grass, and among this lie the fish. Fishing with a line is 
out of the question — but many are caught with a "gig." 

There is a legend connected with the spring, which 
goes on to. say that many years ago, long before the white 
man trod the shores of America, this spring was a little 
fountain, and was the favorite resort of a pair of masto- 
dons. One day while standing at the spring, cooling 
themselves by throwing over their backs ''trunkfuls" 
'of the icy water, the ground suddenly gave way beneath 
their feet— and the ill-fated pair found themselves swim 



138 THE EI^VIRONS OF TALLAHASSEE. 

ming in a lake of ice-cold water. Terrifically they 
*' trumpeted," and frantically^ they strove to clamber 
out upon the hank — but the steep sides afforded no 
foot-hold — until benumbed and overcome with the cold, 
and feebly struggling, they sank, with their trunks lov- 
ingly entwined, to rise no more. As my fair informant 
remarked : " lovingly they had spent their lives together, 
and in death they were not divided." The bones of the 
ill-fated pair remained long at the bottom of the spring 
— a memento of their fidelity and their fate. Some 
years ago, some enterprising individuals succeeded in 
getting out their skeletons, which were large and per- 
fect, and shipped them to Xew York. The vessel was 
wrecked during the voyage and they were lost.* 

The country around Tallahassee is attractive and 
beautifully undulating. There are many fine views, and 
pleasant drives in almost any direction. All the varieties 
of forest vegetation peculiar to the country are abun- 
dant. The superb magnolia, with its glossy deep-green 
leaves and large cream-white flowers, the bay-tree, the 
live-oak, so famed for ship timber, the scarlet oak, the 
sweet gum, the sycamore, the long-leaved pine, the ca- 
talpa, the hickory, the beech, the wild plum and crab- 
apple, of size almost incredible until seen ; the dogwood, 
whose large white flowers, and berries of vivid scarlet, 
far exceed in size those of its northern compeer ; grape, 
and other vines of every variety and size ; the yellow 
jessamine, which climbs the trees and overspreads their 
tops with its clusters, and hangs in graceful festoons 
from every branch, in a wealth of floral profusion which 

* Clias. Lanman, Esq., in his " Wilds of America," says that 
tlie boues referred to were sent to Philadelphia by Geo. S. King, 
of Florida, and deposited in the museum there. — Ed. 



THE ENYIROXS OF TALLAHASSEE. 139 

illumines its surroundings, and covers its forest sup- 
porters with a crown of glory. Along the fences and 
hedges the Cherokee rose — I may tell you its legend 
some day — chambers in wild luxuriance, its fair snow- 
white blossoms shining like stars in the dusk of the 
eyening, as you ride along. The oleander, the Cape jes- 
samine and the crepe-myrtle, puny shrubs and hot-house 
plants at the Korth, here are trees, that grow to the 
height of twenty feet. The camellia, too, reaches the 
height of ten feet or more, and living in the open air, 
blossoms wij:h a luxuriance unknown to its sisters of the 
northern conservatory. 

But why say more. The lover of the rod and gun 
keenly appreciates all of nature's loveliness — and where 
is the beauty and delicacy of God's handiwork more 
manifest than in the ' ' Land of Flowers " ? 

Aug. R. Egbert. 



XVII. 
PRIVATE DOUGHERTY AND THE BASS. 

I CHEERFULLY contribute at this opportune season 
the following data, showing, first where big bass 
have been caught by me, and secondly, why I am sure 
they can be caught again. 

First : Every steamboat captain who goes up the St. 
Johns river, Florida, will be able to point out where old 
Fort Butler was situated, some fifteen miles above Lake 
George, and on the south side of the river. About five 
miles above this spot, and on the south side of the river, 
anotlier small river will be found emptying into it, 
between marked embankments, having a wild orange 
grove on the one side and on the other small trees and 
bushes. Tliis river was called the Little AVeekiwa when 
I fished in it ; its mouth is quite open and prominent, 
and I think about eight rods across ; its waters are clear 
and cool, and pass out into the St. Johns over a smooth 
aud shelly bottom. • Its depth is some ten feet or more, 
and its western bank good for camping, and landing 
heavy fish with pole and line. Fish directly across its 
mouth, and if you hit the proper time, I will warrant 
you fish tliat will make your arms ache to handle. 

Second : AVhy I am sure they can be caught now. The 
reader will at once see from my description of the place 
that here at the mouth of this fine river must be a mag- 



PRIVATE DOUGHERTY AI^D THE BASS. 141 

nificent place for the big bass of the great St. Johns, 
some four hundred miles in length, in places miles broad, 
deep, abounding in small fish, lily pads, etc., to congre- 
gate annually for spawning and other purposes. But 
the proof of good fishing lies not in appearances always, 
for these are often very deceptive, as the fisherman well 
knows. No — better proof lies in the actual trials made 
here by myself and one other — Private Dougherty, of 
K company, second United States dragoons. He was 
the " Peter " of his company, and fished for over sixty 
men ; and when I think of these times and recall the 
facts, it almost makes my now old gray hairs stand on 
end. This may be a weakness, 'tis true, but yet the tales 
lose none of their interest with me. I trust younger 
sportsmen will at least admire my veneration. If not, I 
am but the mirror of their fate, and true to life. 

And now to my story, which is short, sweet, true, 
and very conclusive. With a slight preface, so as to 
reveal the scene behind the curtains, I will say, that in 
1838, during the Florida war, I doffed the ever-memor- 
able ^' gray and bullet-buttoned coat," for the more 
envied long-tailed blue. I was at once ushered into ser- 
vice by being stationed that fall, winter, and spring at the 
above-named post ; then two days' time from any other 
civilized place, steamboat time at that, and as for "com- 
mon time," in which I had been drilled, wdiy, we had 
no logarithmic tables there to calculate it. Suffice it we 
were seventy strong right in the heart of Florida, and 
about ten days' travel from all signs of civilization. I 
landed here by " walking the plank " from a small steam- 
boat, thence into the pine barren. Glorious, indeed ! 
Story ! your story, anon ! 

AVell, one morning I went to inspect the company's 



142 PRIVATE DOUGHERTY A]S"D THE BASS. 

mess and rations, wlicn to my astonislimcnt I fonnd the 
sides of the mess room all covered over with bass split 
down on the back, and as large as codfish, besides the 
mess tables for sixty men were smoking with hot fish. 
What I thonght I, am I on the coast of Newfoundland, 
among the cod fisheries of New England, or am I in 
Florida ? I will inquire, perha])S 1 am in a dream. 
*' ISergeant," said I, '^ you seem to liave plenty of fish 
here ; where did you get them ? " He replied : " Dough- 
erty is a fisherman, and he goes up the river every few 
days and catches what fish the men can eat." "Tell 
him I wish to see him." *'Yes, Lieutenant," replied 
the sergeant, touching his cap. (Enter Dougherty) 
^' Dougherty, where do you catch all these fish, and how 
do you do it?" '^I catch them," said he, "up the 
river, with a line and hook ; I troll for them. I first 
use a piece of white fat i)ork rind, cut thin, for a bait, 
and after this I use a white strip cut out of the belly of 
the fish, and about three inches long ; these last longer 
and save the 2:)ork, and arc just as good, if not better, I 
think." This was good news, as well as economy in 
pork rind. I decided to try them. The next day 
Dougherty and myself, armed with hook and line only 
sixty feet long, and a i)iece of pork rind sliced from the 
pork barrel, started off for the fishing grounds. Soon 
after passing a long line of lily pads on the right, we 
came to the mouth of the river above described, and took 
u]) a ])lace in the centre of it. " Xow, hold on," said I, 
'' while I cut off a piece of this rind and bait my hook." 
This done, by hooking it at one end so it would jilay in 
the water, "A'ow," said I, "you row across," and away 
went my line by a cast at the same time, no sooner strik- 
ing the water than — splash I up you go ! about two feet 



PEIVATE DOUGHERTY AKD THE BASS. 143 

into the air, white belly, tail, fins, and all a-fl3ing down 
you come, shaking and dangling Avith a twitcli. " Pull 
him in," said Priyate Dougherty, for I was a novice 
now, and liad never caught a fish before by trolling. I 
obeyed his orders and soon had a big bass in the boat. 
The bait yet good, away I cast it again. JSTo sooner 
done than — up she goes again ! and into the boat I haul 
him — a monster bass, the boat meeting him full half- 
way ; and soon over it goes again, and in comes another, 
and still over again, and still in another, and so on and 
so forth to the end of the chapter, with no change ex- 
cept to use the piece of belly for bait when my other was 
all gone. This sport continued for less than two hours, 
when finding my boat nearly loaded down, and my little 
fingers well cut and sore by hauling them in, I concluded 
to stop at the round number of fifty, and returned to the 
post. "When I weighed my fish, or at least one of the 
smallest and largest, the smallest weighed four and one- 
half pounds and the largest fourteen and one-half 
pounds, giving a fair average of ten pounds, or five hun- 
dred pounds in all. This looks like large bass in the 
St. Johns river. 

I was not then particularly fond of fishing, and never 
went to the place again, but Dougherty told me that he 
continued to catch them in this way for some time 
afterward, and until the weather got warmer, when 
they ceased biting there and went out into the main 
river, where he caught them, though much less abun- 
dantly. 

I visited the place, I think about the 10th of March, 
when the oranges were yellow and ripe, and lying on the 
ground. Here, in my opinion, is the spot for Florida 
sportsmen. I think the bass spawn here annually, and 



144 PRIVATE DOUGHERTY AND THE BASS. 

the few that miiy be caught will make no difference. I 
do not learn that any settlers live near this spot. Land 
from the steamer, pitch your tent, and throw the fly or 
pull the trigger at your option. I am sure you will have 
rare sport, and to your full satisfaction. 

H. W. Merrill. 



XVIII. 
THE PET BIRDS OF ST. AUGUSTINE. 

THIS is a lovely day. The sun is bright and the air 
balmy — neither too warm nor too cool. I am 
writing by the open window. Everything is as still as 
if it were the Sabbath. Far out in the bay is a boat, in 
which sits a man, lazily fishing. A querulous crow flies 
by, hoai-sely croaking, and the white wing of a gull 
gleams distantly in tlie sunlight. The old flag is gently 
floating in the soft south Avind. The sky is blue, the 
waves are bright and glancing, and a general sense of 
laziness seems to pervade the air, and one feels like 
leaning on the sill and gazing out on the quiet beauty of 
the scene forever. In the distance, above the belt of 
dark-green trees, is the lighthouse, with its pure white 
tower pointing heavenward, like a tall church spire, and 
its blessed star of hope on the summit. Right below it 
and cresting the sand hills of Anastasia Island, is the 
long line of evergreen, with an occasional palm-tree, 
whose feathery fronds wave above the general mass of 
foliage, the very emblem of grace. To the south are the 
storehouses and buildings for the workmen engaged in 
erecting the new lighthouse, which, when completed, 
will stand one hundred and eighty feet above the water, 
with a light of the first order visible twenty-eight miles 
at sea. To the north extend the long line of breakers 
7 



146 THE PET BIRDS OF ST. AUGUSTIITE. 

witli tlioir wliite-capped crests surging over the bar. 
Furtlier north yet, the snow-white sand of the beach and 
tlie interminable line of verdureless "■ dnnes" glisten iu 
the sun. Nearer are the wide marshes, so infested with 
rattlesnakes that cattle cannot graze there. Here and 
tliere a few clumps of sciiib relieve the brownish j-ellow 
of the marsli. Nearer yet is the bay, shimmering in the 
sun. On the shore near the sea-wall, the tide is down. 
A little gray-coated sand-piper comes tripping along the 
l)each, '' pecking '^ softly to itself, as if it enjoyed the sun, 
and perches upon a warm stone, dressing its feathers. 
Then comes the sea-wall — a monument of governmental 
patronage, and the favorite Sabbath evening promenade 
of Minorca's dark-eyed beauties. At its terminus, far to 
the north, loom up the massive towers and frowning 
battlements of Fort San Marco, the pride of the " ancient 
city." How peaceful the scene, for peaceful looking it 
is, notwithstanding the old fort looms in the distance, 
with racks full of great cannon-balls and field-pieces on 
the parade in the foreground. The day was so lovely 
that, having a few hours' leisure, I thought I would go 
and see ^' the birds," so I called on the Colonel, who is 
a capital sailor, and finding him disengaged, we started 
in his skiff (ycleped by the jokers the Snorting Sea- 
horse), and sailed up the bay about a mile beyond the 
town, passing the Old Fort and running in among the 
bayous which intersect the wide marshes. 

Have you ever heard of the birds ? I copy a slip 
from the St. Augustine " Press " which will explain the 
matter : 

"AVe witnessed a novel and beautiful sight a few 
days ago at the farm of Mrs. H., situated on the North 
river, about two miles above the city. Mrs. H., in the 



THE PET BIRDS OF ST. AUGUSTINE. 147 

course of a few months, has succeeding in taming the wild 
birds that fly about the place. While we were in the 
house, Mrs. H. went out to the door and called to the 
birds, which were then, in the middle of the day, in the 
adjoining forest. In a few moments a dozen or more 
blue-birds and mocking-birds came flying around her. 
She then came into the house and handed each of our 
jiarty a raisin, wdiich we were requested to hold out in 
our fingers. We remained still for a few minutes, when 
the birds hopped in at the door, flew^ upon our hands, 
and picked the raisins from our fingers. We were 
astonished, and could not help wondering the more when 
we were informed that none of these birds had been 
caged, but were thus tamed by the gentleness and art of 
this lady." 

As it may interest some of your readers, and conduce, 
perhaps, to both pleasure and profit, and aid the cause 
of the feathered tribes by inducing some of our gentle 
and fair friends to aid in their civilization and domesti- 
cation, I will give the result of my trip, which will show 
the power of continued gentleness and kindness with 
these beautiful denizens of our woods. 

After landing, a pleasant drive of a mile or two, over 
sandy roads and through a thick chaparral, brought us 
to the little farm, but we found its occupants absent, so 
missed seeing the birds, which, as it afterward turned 
out, would have been the case even had Mrs. H. been at 
home, for her feathered visitors were of those varieties 
wiiich migrate from the north and had not yet returned. 
We w^ere driving back, a good deal disappointed, when 
on the road we met the old lady and her son, so we 
stopjjed and held some pleasant talk. I told her I had a 
dear friend in the distant North who had read of her 



148 THE PET BIRDS OF ST. AUGUSTIIS'B. 

birds with interest, and was anxious to know how she 
tamed them. I added that my friend loved the birds, 
but couhl not succeed in winning them in their wild 
state to feed from the hand as she had done. Mrs. H. 
seemed much pleased at this, and smilingly began to 
tell me how it had been brought about. She is a placid 
looking old lady about sixty-five, but young and active 
for her years. She and her son, a young man of twenty- 
five, had bought a tract of land about two miles north 
of this city (St. Augustine), put up a shingle house, and 
there they ived. They are farmers, sell berries, corn, 
potatoes, poultry, etc., and thus obtain a comfortable 
livelihood. Their house is on the edge of a bayou lead- 
ing to the North river, just between the marshes and the 
woods, on comparatively high ground ; a pretty site, with 
a fine outlook toward the sea. They were very lonely 
there, however, no near neighbors and but few passers by. 
** It all came of my being so lonely," said Mrs. H., 
'* and" — I give her own words as nearly as I remember — 
" for the sake of company I began to make friends with 
the birds, though the beginning of our friendship was 
rather accidental, too. I always threw out the crumbs 
from the table, and as I did so I noticed a great many 
birds would come and pick them up. They were so 
pretty and trusting, I thought it would be a pleasant 
thing to have them round me, so I determined to make 
a regular habit of feeding them every day, and I began 
to throw my crumbs and handsful of grain far from the 
house toward the grove, each day a little nearer and 
nearer till I got tliem right 'round tlie door. All this 
time I was very careful not to frighten my little friends. 
I had no children about the house, and did not keep 
either a dog or cat, so the quiet could not be broken — 



THE PET BIRDS OF ST. AUGUSTINE. 149 

there was nothing to alarm or startle, and the birds soon 
became fearless. Then," she added, " my son noticed 
what I was doing and joined me, and by degrees, the 
birds learned to know him and trust him as they did me. 
After they had been feeding 'round the door for some 
time, I put some of the crumbs in my hand and held it 
perfectly still. Then they hopped up and began to eat 
from my fingers. I knew I had their hearts then. 
Finding I never tried to catch them, they came into the 
house, twittered about and fed without fear. I now 
began to call them, and as the little creatures knew tliis 
meant food (for I neyer disappointed them), they learned 
to know my voice and came readily at my call." 

Mrs. H. informed me that this continued for some 
time, when strangers heard of it, and began to drive out 
to see her pets ; perfect quiet was enjoined, and the touch- 
ing or catching of any bird was carefully prohibited. 
The little creatures were perfectly fearless, coming at 
her call, no matter who was there, and fluttering and 
twittering about her. Many people had been there and 
seen it, and, said she, "I have received many letters 
inquiring my method of so completely taming wild wood 
birds, but there is nothing about it, no charm, only 
kindness and perfect freedom from harm or annoyance." 
The birds went north in the spring, and this had been 
the first year Mrs. H. tried feeding them, and accident 
and loneliness had brought about this pleasant friendship. 
*' I do hope it won't be broken off," she added earnestly, 
*^ I want the birds to come back. I have learned to 
love them, so I could not bear them to forget me." 

Such was her story. I assured her that many, if not 
all her birds, would return, and very likely bring their 
little ones with them, that such were their habits, and 



150 THE I'ET lUKDS OF ST. AUGUSTIKB. 

if my friend came to this land of flowers, we would be 
sure to remember and come to see both herself and her 
birds. I must not forget to add that I asked her what 
kind of birds were her guests. " I can hardly tell you," 
she said, "there are so many that I do not know ; but I 
see plenty of mocking-birds among them, blue jays, blue- 
birds, robins, and little brown birds, which are very 
sociable." By these last I recognized the friendly little 
sparrows so familiar to us at home. She also told me they 
expected to build a new house, and she wondered if the 
birds would consider that a safe home, and come there too. 

So we parted, she to her lonely home and we to the 
barracks. But the memory of that scene returns pleas- 
antly to me — the quiet road- side shaded by the tall Flor- 
ida pines — the rough-cast and shaggy horse — and the 
gentle old lady sitting among her baskets, with her son 
by her side. I seem to see now her face lit up and shin- 
ing with sweetness and peacefulness as she talked of her 
pets. That countenance, radiant with the beauty of a 
serene, kindly sj^irit, tliat gentle voice I vividly recall ; 
and as I do so, I do not wonder that the very birds of 
the air learned to trust and love her. For all this told a 
story that even they could not fail to read. 

But I have not taken my friend there yet, nor do I 
know whether the hope of the good old lady \ms ever 
been realized, and Jier friends (the bii'ds) returned to 
brighten and cheer her declining years, and meet their 
kindly welcome. Long before I shall be able, in this 
ever-clianging army life, to revisit " the ancient city," the 
old lady will doubtless have gone to her rest. May the 
birds, as in the sweet nursery tradition of 'Hhe Babes 
in the Wood," hover over her grave and lovingly scatter 
leaves above her peaceful breast. 

A. R. Egbekt. 



XIX. 

STEAM-YACHTIXG ON THE ST. JOHNS. 

THERE is a combination of pleasure in boat life that 
is unrivalled, and it is a matter of regret that, with 
our magnificent inland waters, some among them attrac- 
tive at every season, so little eUort has been made to 
render more simple and economical the methods for 
enjoying them. Our steamboats are perfection, and he 
who will go by time card, and with half the population 
of a city as companions, may be wafted along like a 
prince, and find at hand every luxury of life ; but if he 
will go or tarry at will, hasten or linger as tempted at 
the moment, there is less chance to do it, with any pres- 
ent arrangements, than on the Nile or Amazon. 

Fleeing a year ago from the cold, your corresj^ondent 
found himself steaming rapidly away from one of the 
long wharves of the lower St. Johns, on a small, impet- 
uous little yacht, one of the busy, bustling kind, imbued 
with the restless spirit that small things usually possess 
and exhibit, to show that, after all, size is not everything. 

It was a day for idling, and the rapid puff was not in 
harmony ; so, leaning over the small bow deck, that just 
held a bell and two easy chairs, the order was given to 
old Paul, the well-known pilot, to slow up, and Paul 
conveyed the same to the engineer, when the sharp rip- 
ple at the bow lost its rustle, the engine breathed more 



153 YACHTING OS THE ST. JOHNS. 

comfortably, and witli a wide, lazy wake spreading far 
behind on the golden river, we laid back in our seats, 
and determined to abandon Northern haste, and learn 
laziness in earnest — in fact, to do nothing as hard as 
possible. And the lesson was very easy. The slow- 
drifting clouds, the currentless river, the gentle wind, 
and all about was peaceful and free from suggestion of 
haste ; and coming fresh from driven clouds and hurry- 
ing storms, it was enough to take in sunshine and re- 
pose, leaving for another time action and progress. 

All that surrounds one at the South is suggestive of, 
and in unison with, rest ; and notliing is more grateful. 
At the North it is not so ; energy and haste see^i the 
spirit of animate and inanimate life. The wind blusters 
and frets in an eager way, while the clouds drive on as 
if their haven was not yet found. The surf on the 
rocky sliores is not the low, long tone of the strand ; it 
essays the conquest and crumbling of the rock-bound 
coasts, wliile the streams hasten on their way to the sea, 
cutting corners like messengers, and turning a whirl here 
and there with an expression of relief at getting away 
from a temporary delay in the quiet pond. And are we 
not too much the same ? Do not Northern men wear 
away in efforts to save time, and never command leisure ? 
Are not brains mazed by efforts to save ^nd systematize 
that only increase complexity ? Do not our women 
assume care to preserve and protect their beautifully fur- 
nished homes, until their chairs and fragile china out- 
last their weary lives ? Can minds always engrossed 
really see wiiat is laid broadcast of beauty and interest any 
more than rui!lod w^aters can reflect the sky or beautiful 
shores ; and does not our laboriously assumed discipline 
of habit finally become a power that cannot be shaken 



TACHTIInG on the 8T. johks. 153 

off, even if weakened vitality warns that it must be 
done ? But our bows were unbent, and our surrender 
to. the peaceful influences was unconditional. The 
broad, quiet river bore no evidence of the centuries that 
have passed since the first adventurers explored it for the 
fountain of youth — a fountain that, undiscovered for 
man, assuredly maintains the evergreen vigor of this 
remarkable stream. Known longer than any river on 
the continent, it is the same to the eye as when the first 
boat passed over it. At hardly any point are there 
breaks in the line of foliage that crowds to the water's 
edge; and miles and miles did we pass on, seeing no evi- 
dence that the swells from our boat were not the first 
that set the water-lilies nodding a friendly welcome. 

The lower river is too wide for game, being often ten 
miles from shore to shore — quite sea-room enough for a 
yachtman's skill, and water enough for a good sized craft 
on nearly all stretches. From this wide water we turned 
into Black creek, where we were promised shots at alli- 
gators. This is a very beautiful stream, about one hun- 
dred yards wide. The alligator is very much like our 
northern turtles in his manner of life ; and, like them, 
enjoys sunshine on his scaly form. We slowed the 
engine and went on very quieth^, keeping near the sunny 
bank of the river, and half forgetting, at times, our pur- 
pose, in admiration of the same. The alligator is not 
easily seen by a novice among so many new forms to 
catch the eye. Their scaly backs, when dry, are pre- 
cisely the color of bark, and lying on or by fallen trees, 
tlieir form assimilates so closely to the decaying trunks, 
that we were unable to distinguish them at first, even 
when our small imp-of-all-work would grimace like a 
monkey in efforts to point them out. We did not admit 
7* 



ir)4 YACHTING ON THE ST. JOHNS. 

with candor tliat we did not sec tlicni, but bnivcl}' fired 
away, and kei)t u}) an expression of entire wisdom, even 
Avlien, in resi)onse to hurried shots, chips Hew from h^gs 
that were not very near the splash made by the escaping 
saurian. One or two were liit, and when wounded gave 
a disphiy of power tluit increased our respect for tliem. 
Smashing about, tliey made tlie foam and water lly like 
a proi)eller wheel on a tear, but almost invarialjly re- 
tained enough vitality to get to the bottom, where the 
body remains in the mud and grass until, expanded by 
decomposition, it rises to be food for swarms of turkey- 
buzzards. We continued this rifle practice for some 
time, until the long shadows covered both banks, when 
the alligators, as dependent upon sunshine as butterflies, 
went into their slimy homes. Then we turned, to reach 
the open river before dark, let on more steam, and laid 
aside our rifles to enjoy the scene. It was wonderfully 
fair. Foliage of new forms pressed out over the water ; 
vines, hid en with bloom, hnng, like Narcissus over the 
flood, lost in their reflections ; ducks swam hastily on 
before us, drawing a wake that became long rays of light, 
and, overtaken, took long circles back to the quiet scenes 
we were leaving ; wliile, on the topmost branches of tall 
trees, turkey-buzzards sat in rows, waiting like ghouls 
for death and decay to lure them down. They were un- 
mindful of rifle-balls ; safe in worthlessness they sur- 
veyed the scene their repulsive forms marred, and when 
the shadows were almost as dark as their sable wings, 
we were glad to enter the open river. Over the bar, witii 
full steam, we pressed on as long as we could see ; and 
then, tied to a deserted wood wharf for the night, lighted 
up our little cabin, had our supper, a f-W glasses of social 
wine, and turned in to dream of semi-tropical life. 



YACHTIKG ON THE ST. JOHNS. 155 

These piers are often carried a long way into the 
broad river before reaching water of sufficient depth for 
a steamboat, so shallow are many of the bays, and they 
do not endure long in a climate where heat and moisture 
expedite decay, and where, under water, various borers are 
ever at work running their galleries through and through 
even the gummy pitch-pine logs. 

With some ingenuity very comfortable beds were 
improvised from cushions, rugs, etc., and despite the hot 
breath and loud respirations of the furnace and boiler, 
very near our heads, we made out a comfortable night on 
our steam tug. At daybreak a fog hung over the stream, 
and we were forced to await its clearing. It did not 
delay long, but rolled away like a curtain, and opened a 
morning view of the scenes that we were so reluctant to 
have overshadowed the night before. Our cook was 
busy in a caboose a little smaller than a watch-box, from 
which drifted, a fragrant odor of Java as we came on 
deck and freshened up in pails of clear water, and ate 
our fruit before breakfast. We were drifting along, with 
summer all around — air, water, and sky all full of 
warmth. Our will our law, to go, to stop, hasten or 
linger as we fancied at the moment, and in unison with 
the soothing influences of the scene we gave ourselves up 
to vigorous idleness. After our meal, as our crew was 
small, your correspondent took the wheel while the cap- 
tain enjoyed his breakfast. The pilot-house was low 
and open. Just in front, in easy camp-chairs, sat the 
rest of our little party smoking, with their guns on a 
cable box in front, all of us feeling little interest in get- 
ting anywhere, the one fact of gliding along amid slowly 
varied scenes being sufficient. It was indeed luxurious. 
Our black imp was at hand to respond to every wish and 



156 YACHTING ON THE ST. JOHNS. 

attend to every want that might have caused greater 
exertion than winking, and we were convinced that- man's 
natnral bent was laziness, from the very rapid and com- 
plete surrender of three hurrying, worrying, nervously 
active Northerners to the abandon of the Sunny South. 

There was but little game in sight as yet. We were 
on the highway, where from the forward decks of every 
steamer a fusillade of small-arms is kept up on every liv- 
ing thing, from alligators to the useful buzzards that 
clustered upon the floating carrion. Every man and 
boy feels called upon to do some ^"sporting" in Florida, 
and all are armed with as varied a lot of guns and pistols 
as would adorn an arsenal. The rapid movement of the 
river boats prevents any very serious results to the ani- 
mals and birds, unless when now and then the ricochet 
of a ball kills a cow in the woods ; but it amuses all but 
the timid people, and is a customer of very great value 
to the Union Metallic Cartridge Company. 

The birds seem well informed as to the range of 
modern arms. The stately and beautiful snowy herons 
spread their white wings only when rifles are raised, and 
the less beautiful alligator seems to know just when to 
launch himself to save his scaly sides from harm. The 
animal life of the lower St. Johns is not of the simple 
kind, but the denizens of this Broadway know a thing 
or two, and are not to be taken in by any cheap tricks. 
Consequently our guns were idle, and nothing aroused 
us from the quiet state of enjoyment that is so valuable 
to the strained minds that have been keeping pace with 
the restlessness of Northern life. 

The afternoon found us at Pilatka, where the larder 
was reinforced, ice purchased, and a boat obtained. At 
twilight we pushed on, turning into the narrower and 



YACHTIi^Q ON THE ST. JOHNS 157 

more picturesque channels, where the forest crowded out 
to the water's edge, and sprays of floAvering vines hung 
far oyer the flood, lost in vain admiration of their mir- 
rored heauty and grace. 

The water was deep even to the shore, and we cut 
the bends of the stream close under the foliage that 
rustled with the breeze made by our motion, while views 
of remarkable beauty opened every moment before us, 
each in deeper shade and more mysterious beauty as the 
rapid darkness came on. As later every form on shore 
was lost in the dense blackness of night, it became a 
wonder to us how old Paul could thread the devious 
and narrow channel ; but on we sped, only halting inshore 
once to let one of the great river boats go by. The huge 
thing came panting like a leviathan breathing flame ; and 
with wide-open furnaces casting broad bars of light over 
the water, and rows of colored signal lamps far above 
the bright cabin windows, she made a striking scene 
against the night as she sped on, bearing a gay throng 
of pleasure-seekers to the upper river. 

^Ye were not anxious, however, to get on. There 
was a wealth of beauty by the way, that few on the 
great stream would see, and after feeling our way for a 
time, old Paul rang to "stop her!" '* back her," and 
our little boat drifted against a wood wharf, that no one 
but our pilot could have found, with no sign to mark it 
under the forest blackness ; and here, tied up to a decayed 
dock, we did not envy the passengers going '' on time." 

Former experience told how there would be a rusli 
for seats, and a scramble for food, and a long cue of tired 
men and women waiting to learn from a patient purser 
that there were no more state-rooms, no more beds on 
the floor, and no more blankets for a curl up under the 



158 YACHTING ON THE ST. JOHNS. 

dining tables. We were not at tlie mercy of negro 
stewardesses, nor to be snubbed by magnificent waiters ; 
we were as independent as chimney-SAveeps in a crowd. 
Your correspondent was admiral of tlie fleet (steamer 
and two skiffs), sailing-master, ^^bo'sun tight and mid- 
shipmite," and chief of ordnance (one Scott and one 
Remington), while Madame was in command of our cabin 
passengers (maid and one child), and reigned supreme 
over a culinary department consisting of two spirit-lamps 
at night and a fire on shore in the day time. 

Just at the time we tied up, hot tea was singing on 
one lamp, hot soup (thanks to Liebig), on the other ; 
and with rolls, devilled meat, and canned luxuries, there 
was a good supper laid away, and the events of the day 
came in pleasant retrospect through the cheering medium 
of sparkling wine. 

At dawn we clambered on to the old wharf. A wood 
road ran back from it through the forest to a settler's 
home. Birds were singing gayly, among them our 
familiar summer friends ; but many strange notes came 
from the low growth. Following what seenued to be the 
sound of an axe, a woodpecker was found, an earlier work- 
man than the lazy "crackers." It was one of the large 
fellows that are sometimes seen on southern trees ; as 
large as a teal duck, a gay, handsome bird, with a bill 
like iron and a head that enables them to exercise the 
feat, long considered impossible, of sawing wood with a 
hammer. Ducks, herons, water turkeys, ospreys, and 
other birds followed the narrow water in their flight, shy- 
ing above the tree tops as they found us occupying their 
solitude, and saying hard things of us in their own way, 
while high up on a venerable cypress limb sat several 
ducks, rather an unusual sight, and there they sat while 



YACHTING ON THE ST. JOHNS. 159 

. we made a fire and cooked our breakfast, and only moved 
off when a ball went very near them. 

Xothing can equal this mode of enjoying the soutli- 
ern rivers. From the lofty decks of the steamers a great 
deal is seen, but every moment one is hurried ruthlessly 
away from some spot where there is every temptation to 
linger, and then left to wdiile aAvay hours at some land- 
ing where preceding crowds have gathered every flower, 
and alarmed every bird with pistols and parasols. 

After a leisurely breakfast on shore, as free from care 
as gypsies, we went on board ; put easy chairs on deck, 
laid our guns before us, and steamed on through 
scenes of great beauty and variety, now and then getting 
a duck, wliich was picked up and enjoyed by our men, 
who cooked them in the furnace under the boiler. 

Above Pilatka the river becomes less lake-like. 
There is more perceptible current, and it bends and 
drifts by islands, when, the channel being nearer the 
shore, more of the forest is seen. Unbroken woods and 
ranks of tall stems come quite to the w^ater's edge ; 
indeed the huge cypress trees stand in the margin, and 
surrounded by the upward pointed roots, rising from one 
to four feet high, called knees, they give a novel appear- 
ance to the ground, while overhead the long gray drapery 
of Spanish moss adds an impression that these are bearded 
w^oods of unknown age, hoary and ancient as Druid oaks. 
Fresh and bright are the grand magnolias, every dark- 
green leaf polished until it is silver in the sunlight ; 
and as a new form to the N"orthern eye the tall palmettoes 
raise their tufted crowns of huge leaves. On dry ground 
the live-oak assumes superb proportions, its low spread- 
ing form and broad shade being in gi-ateful contrast to 
the rigid formality and upright lines of the southern 



160 YACHTIN^G ON THE 8T. JOHN 3. 

pines, so abundant and so mnnntonons. Beneath these 
trees is a varied and interesting growth of forms very 
strange in contrast witli tlie small thin undergrowth of 
the North. The huge leaves of the cabbage palmetto, 
five or six feet in diameter, are very handsome, with their 
crimped fan-like radiating form, and the saw-palmetto 
shrub is very similar. A wealth of small growth and 
vines is mingled in the green tangle, while parasitic 
plants, mistletoe, and air-plant, form mid-air clusters 
foreign to any our hardwood hills present. 

About noon we reached Lake George and found it 
very rough, but leaving the channel we followed an 
unusual route through the islands and ventured out, our 
yacht rolling a good deal, but we soon came under the 
west shore and found shelter. About midway on the 
shore is one of the Avonderful springs that are so beauti- 
ful. Leaving the yacht, we poled in a flat skiff over a 
shallow bar, and up the stream that flows from the 
spring. The entrance was among lilies called bonnets 
by the natives, and they were swarming with duck and 
rail ; while in the water, that was as clear as air, were 
shoals of fish, bass, mullet, long, savage-looking gar-fish 
and huge cat-fish. They would not bite, but were easily 
punched with an oar, and with a sjiear numbers could 
have been obtained. Here and there lay alligators, eye- 
ing us wickedly, and they were far more bold than in 
the main river. On the low points — resembling the 
spirituelle as completely as the alligators represent the 
infernal — were stately, snowy herons, the most beautiful 
feature of all this sunny land. Following the dark 
tliread of water through a profusion of semi-aquatic 
grt)\vth, we entered the forest until it overreached the 
narrow water, and was, in all its beauty, repeated in tho 



YACHTING OJ^ THE ST. JOHNS. 161 

calm flood below. The long gray moss hung almost to 
its reflection, and in the long vista all mingled into a 
confusion of waving form and shadow that concealed 
the water line, making a scene as indefinite and unreal 
as a dream. All kinds of birds and animals fluttered on 
before us or stole away into the woods. The grotesque 
snake-birds, or water turkeys, wriggled and stared, and 
tumbled off their per dies with a helpless splash into the 
water, as if overcome with astonishment, and would next 
be seen with two or three inches of snake-like head and 
neck, going rapidly by. Precisely do they resemble a 
small swimming snake, and one can hardly believe that 
there is so large a bird under the surface. In the dim 
light that found its way through the huge leaves, we 
came upon a congress of owls, assembled, beyond doubt, 
in the mysteries of some ancient order of Minerva, and 
never was so much wisdom so solemnly arrayed. Silent, 
dignified, and conservative, doing nothing lightly, com- 
mitting themselves to no unmatured ideas, even and 
temperate, what body could equal them ? I had seen 
less manifest self-respect in the great and august men 
who eat peanuts in the beautiful chambers at Washing- 
ton. Silently we gazed mutually ; on my part a con- 
viction of trespass became uncomfortable, and I was 
about framing an apology in long Avords of Greek deri- 
vation when the gray wings opened and the whole party 
flitted silently away, merging into the smoke-colored 
moss like a transformation scene. 

Life abounds in these retreats. Here the wood duck 
winters in solitude, curlew sweep along in flocks, coot 
and rail run among the sedge, deer come shyly down to 
drink, or, frightened by the puma, plunge in and seek 
refuge in swimming. Under the bonnets are voracious 



162 YACHTING ON THE ST. JOHNS. 

wide-mouthed bass, called trout by the natives, who 
know not our clear norlbcni waters nor the brii^ht-hued 
lisli that enliven them ; antl when the sun is bright, huge 
gar-tish, or alligator gar, long-nosed fellows, bask near 
the surface. Near springs where the waters are clear 
the study of aquatic life is very interesting. In one such 
stream, with a bright sandy bottom, I saw more varieties 
of fish than I can describe or name. Among them, in 
groups, were fish like pike, from one to two and three 
feet long. The gar were abundant, and four to six feet 
in length, going oft" like arrows, leaving a swirl like a 
propeller. In deeper spots clustered bass, a spotted fish 
I could not learn the name of, and fish called silver fish, 
while flitting along like bats, raising little clouds of 
sand at each stroke of their liver-colored wings, were 
electric rays, or stingarees. Under our boat, too, undu- 
lated the water moccasin, eyeing us angrily, and darting 
out a forked tongue most viciously. At .another time, 
in one of these bayous near Enterprise, while paddling 
along, I shot a small alligator, some four feet long. 
The ball tipped and cut his skull, and, as my excel- 
lent boatman July said, killed him. Poking him up 
from the bottom we took him guardedly aboard. He 
was seemingly very dead, so his shiny form was placed 
under the bow deck, over which I stood, shooting at gar- 
fish, hoping to get one. I had forgotten the fellow, 
when I was astonished by a smashing under my feet, 
and with a jumj^ over July made my escape into tlie 
stern, where a lady was sitting, just in time to save my 
legs from a ras}) of his well-aimed tail. Out he came, 
smasliing and spoiling for a muss, his long mouth open, 
and an unpleasant look of mischief in his bloody head 
and eyes. There were just then some amazing ideas 



TACHTIIS'G ON THE ST. JOHKS. 163 

Buggestecl. Jumping OTerboard was going from the 
alligator frying-pan into a fire of sting rays, electric eels, 
and moccasins. Shooting him was a pleasant and re- 
vengeful idea, but it meant blowing a hole in the bottom 
of the boat. The old story of the natural histories 
reminded me that it was the proper thing to jump on 
his back and hold up his fore legs ; but I was at the 
wrong end of him, and riding one without a saddle is 
not a thing to do even with the spur of necessity. It 
was rather close. The boat was not as long as we wished 
it was, and we had exhausted our retreat, but, master 
of the situation, he waddled on with an air of conquest 
and extermination until July met him bravely and pun- 
ished him with the butt of an oar until he was again 
stunned. We had lost confidence in killing him, and to 
be safe tied him overboard and towed him to a landing, 
where he recovered his fine disposition under a system of 
annoyance from all the visitors, and finally gave evidence 
of it by biting a man. When I heard this I said nothing 
of his being my pet, and due justice was meted him. 

Injury from alligators is very uncommon, but they 
are at times very fierce. A gentleman going to recover 
a duck, shot on the upper St. Johns, saw an alligator seiz-' 
ing it, and poured a charge of shot into his head, when 
the injured and infuriated beast turned and bit a large 
piece, gunwale and all, from the skiff. Their power is 
very great, and when wounded they give evidence of it, 
thrashing and crushing all about them. I shot one 
through the head on Six Mile creek, and he leaped from 
the ground until he looked as high as a horse. Heavy 
and awkAvard as they seem, they are not to be approached 
unguardedly, and although always ready to escape, if 
prevented they are very vicious. 



1G4 YACHTING ON THE ST. JOHNS. 

Half a mile from the lake, the stream ended in a 
curve under a higli bank, and liere by liard rowing we 
found the spring, and looked down into a white walled 
chasm through water that seemed too ethereal to support 
our skiff. It was a dizzy overlook down into this deep 
pool, where long weeds writhed and swayed forty or fifty 
feet below us in the swell of the current, and where 
shoals of huge fish would sweep out from under rocks 
and be swept rapidly about like shadows. The water 
rose with such force as to make a high boiling centre, 
where skilful rowing could poise a boat, only to slide 
away with a rapid balloon-like motion that was not at 
all pleasant. Fine palmettoes had surrounded this won- 
derful pool with a fit and beautiful shade, but they were 
just then a heap of smouldering ashes, having been cut 
away for cotton ground that might better have been 
taken from the unHmited forest beyond the small clear- 
ing. Vandal hands have rarely marred a more weird 
scene, nor ignorance more surely damaged the value of a 
rare possession ; but so it is in Florida ; all hands, from 
the jewelled one that wrote its owner's name in ^font at 
St. Augustine, to the ''cracker's " horny palm, are against 
the. ancient, the curious, and the beautiful ; and ere long 
the cliffs will bear quack medicine names, and the old 
walls will fall before want of taste, and give away to 
pine fences, as has the old and mysterious " Treasury 
wall" at St. Augustine. (A disgraceful fact.) 

The tropical character of this noble river is chiefly 
seen above Lake George. North of this lake the north- 
west winds, the cold storm winds of the country, pass 
only overland from the frozen north, and in mid-winter 
Bometimes bring a very unpleasant chill, one that renders 
orange culture precarious, blighting in some years the 



YACHTING ON THE ST. JOHNS. 165 

new buds ; but south of this the winds having any west- 
erly direction pass over more or less of the Gulf, and are 
disarmed by the warmth and moisture of that body of 
water of their blighting chill and dryness, and about 
Enterprise snow and frost are practically unknown ; 
palms, palmettoes, bananas, and orange trees assume 
forms of vigor that render them very beautiful to the 
Northern eye, and the refugee from winter finds an 
assured promise of gentle air and golden sunshine. 

The river is very crooked, bending sharply around 
points, cutting deeply into the banks, forming deep 
boiling pools, where fish are seen breaking constantly. 
The shores are usually low ; a point ten feet high is 
known as a bluff, and such are sought by settlers for 
homes, possessing all the freedom from miasma, insects, 
and dampness that can be expected where the sun of 
almost perpetual summer breeds during many months a 
full crop of annoyances. The driest and most desirable 
places are found upon the shell mounds, where one strata 
upon another of shells form elevations of very consider- 
able extent. These shell formations are of great interest, 
and puzzle the keenest minds with their layers of differ- 
ent shells, each distinctly defined in character, and 
differing in a marked form from the next. 

The water-worn river banks show long and perfect 
sections of this character, and the strata are plainly seen 
in even and distinctly marked lines, not always level, 
but extending in long, unbroken elevations and depres- 
sions ; showing that some disturbing upheavals have 
raised and lowered the deposited shells after they were 
imbedded in their present order. 

Some of the strata, lying perhaps six inches in thick- 
ness, are composed of bivalve shells almost exclusively, 



166 YACHTING ON THE ST. JOHNS. 

much crushed and broken, but cemented quite firmly ; 
other strata are without shells of this form, being com- 
])osed of conical, convolute shells of about one inch on 
each angular side ; but these differ again — in some the 
shells are fresh, but little broken, and not firmly 
cemented ; in others crushed in fine fragments, and 
strongly united with the lime made by their partial 
decomposition. All these varieties may be seen over- 
lying one another in a vertical height of four or five feet, 
and the different bands of color form lines that are visi- 
ble as far as the face of the formation is exposed. 

Upon these shell lands there are found numerous 
conical mounds, regular in form, rising from ten to 
thirty feet, evidently of human origin, supposed to have 
been, like the pyramids of Egypt, burial places for the 
distinguished dead of some race that has left no other 
record. The arrow-heads, axes, and other works of rude 
art, found in these mounds, are those of the Stone 
Age, which on this continent is extended to the present 
time among some remote Indian tribes ; but some of 
these implements are found imbedded in a conglomerate 
so firm and stone-like that they convey to the mind of 
the ethnologist an impression of as remote antiquity as 
surrounds the bone caves and gravel deposits of France. 

A great deal of learning has been exhausted upon 
these remains ; but full examination has not yet been 
made, and many links in the chain of unwritten history 
may be supplied when a full comparison of these 
uiounds, and the works they contain, is made with the 
corresponding discoveries of the Old World. 

As the more minute peculiarities of our pre-historic 
ancestors are learned, tliere is no safe limit to assume of 
the unravellings of the maze that surrounds the deeply 



TACHTIIS^G ON THE ST. JOHNS. 167 

interesting questions of unity or diyersity of races ; and 
it is not unlikely that secrets are hidden in the shell 
mounds of Florida that may, when discovered and inter- 
preted in the broad light of future knowledge, tell many 
a curious tale of wandering tribes and far-fetched arts 
and customs. 

Half lost in vain theories and surmises, aroused by 
these peculiar remains, gun and rod were not unfre- 
quently laid aside, and our minds given up to the ro- 
mantic associations of the first voyagers who here sought 
the fountain of youth, carrying so much of w^oe and 
cruelty with them that it is fortunate for the present 
that they did not find any elixir of the kind ; and to the 
more vague but pleasant fancies of the race that still 
earlier possessed this alluring land, and roamed freely, 
with no more idea of a coming and overcoming race than 
occurs to us now in our period of supremacy. 

But this is drifting, and we would not be left with- 
out anchorage in the realms of speculation. We really 
went rapidly against the stream, and after a long day of 
full enjoyment tied our craft to a bank, and in our 
small but snug cabin made pleasant plans for the 
morrow. 

Our third day on the little steamer found us among 
the prairies that lie on either side of the river, below 
Lake Monroe. They were low plains, with groups of 
trees like islands, and long rows of stately palmettoes de- 
fining the curves and retracings of the idle river, remind- 
ing us of the pictures of Eastern scenes of desert and 
palms. Herds of half- wild cattle were seen upon them, 
and sometimes a wild turkey would seek cover, not by 
flight, but by running like the wind. A little back from 
the river, on wet places out of rifle-range, were groups 



168 YACHTING ON THE ST. JOHNS. 

of white herons, the most stately and beautiful of birds, 
and great flocks of large curlew, while now and then gan- 
nets would spread their huge black-and-white wings, and 
seek quiet further apart from the river. No bird is so 
showy and conspicuous as the gannet, and it was long 
our ambition to get one for the plumage, but they were 
very wary, and only settled down in wet places, remote 
from any cover of trees or brush. Fortune, however, at 
last did better for me than patience or perseverance (par- 
don any imputation in favor of the fickle goddess), for, 
while rowing in a skiff, a flock, alarmed by a steamer, 
came laboring over the river, urging their way with 
powerful pinions against a gale of wind. They saw us, 
and tried to steer clear by turning their course several 
points into the wind, but they made too much leeway to 
save their distance, and one fellow came down before my 
gun, and sent up a cloud of spray from the river in 
his fall. 

" Get 'um quick ! " exclaimed old July, my faithful 
boatman, " or an alligator may carry him down ; " and 
get 'um quick we did, bringing in as magnificent a mass 
of green, black, and white plumage as nature ever 
adorned a bird with, arousing some speculations as to 
what a great economy would result, and what a vast 
amount of envious and toilsome strife and ambition 
would be saved, had poor bare humanity been as com- 
fortably and superbly clothed, witliout the toil of the 
needle, or the costly fabrics of fashion. Tliese reflec- 
tions did not impress July, who at once explained his 
*'get 'um quick" counsel, as inspired by an experience 
that had impressed him very deeply. A gentleman 
hunting from Enterprise, shot a duck which fell in the 
water. As he was about taking it in, a large 'gator 



TACHTIKG OK THE ST. JOHKS. 169 

apjoropriated tlie bird. The gentleman in turn gave the 
beast a pep23ering of shot for his sauce, enraging him, 
"without any serious injury, when he turned on the boat 
and took out a piece of the side, gunwale and all, so damag- 
ing it that they only made their way home in it by careen- 
ing the broken side high out of water. These ill-man- 
nered fellows often deprive the hunter of game that falls 
in the water, and the foregoing incident teaches the im- 
l^rudence of irritating them with shot. 

The fishing about the outlet of Lake Monroe is very 
good, but gar and catfish play the mischief with trolling 
gear, and carry away spoons most annoyingly. Bass are 
the best fish obtained. In one of the eddying pools I 
took bass so rapidly, that in less than half an hour the 
bottom of the skiff was alive with them, which, to avoid 
waste, were given to the steward of a steamboat, and 
abundantly supplied the table for a hungry crowd of 
tourists. 

In the spring time the herons assume, to adorn their 
season of love-making, a plumage of remarkable beauty. 
It commences at the base of the neck, and extending 
backward between and over the wings, the long, airy 
plumes of dainty feathery sprays hang down gracefully 
behind the bird, and give a very stylish addition, a la 
]panier, to a bird that never saw a fashion-plate, and 
has no troul3le with any laundress. To obtain these ex- 
quisite decorations for the race so sadly neglected by 
nature in regard to the adornments so lavished on the 
inferior creations, these " angel birds " are assiduously 
hunted, and are consequently so wild, that only by strat- 
egy can they .be shot on any of the borders of the river. 
From our deck we noticed that numbers of blue, white, 
and lesser herons alighted very constantly upon two iso- 
• 8 



170 YACHTIl^G ON THE ST. JOHNS. 

lated trees, standing at the end of a sliallow water-way 
tliat extended from the river into the prairie ; so, with 
tlie hope of gaining some shots, we ordered a halt. 
Tlie steamer was tied to a tree, and we launclied a skiff 
and paddled through the water-lilies, or ^'bonnets" (as 
the huge leaves are called), starting flocks of duck, rail, 
and birds, and disturbing the siestas of numerous alliga- 
tors and turtles. The only shelter was under some small 
water-growing bushes, where we hid ourselves as well as 
we could, draping our hats with Spanish moss, and dis- 
posing it about, for concealment. After a time all the 
turmoil we had caused ceased. The ducks came, one by 
one, and dodged about under the reeds and lily leaves, 
while inquisitive blackbirds flitted near with impertinent 
airs, and chaffed our ideas of concealment with un- 
bounded slang. An alligator, that had been out sun- 
ning himself where our boat laid, came up without a 
ripple, and eyed us with long curiosity as interlopers, and 
drifted almost against the boat. But we were after her- 
ons, and would only shoot them, after the manner of the 
Western man, who, ^^ when he went a cattin' went a cat- 
tin','' and would not accept a bass or pike in lieu of the 
wide-mouthed bull-head. Animal life was abundant all 
about, with little evidence of fear, and, watching it, it 
was easy to realize how deeply engrossed such naturalists 
as Audubon became in thus studying birds a»d animals 
when free in their own haunts. Nothing seemed aAvare 
of us but the herons. They came from remote points, 
and seemed about to perch on the old trees, where so 
many were seen, but swept by and went on to other re- 
treats. It was hardly possible for them to discover us, 
and we could not divine any cause for their wary move- 
ments unless they were warned by the angry scolding of 



YACHTIiq-G OK THE ST. JOH:n:S. 171 

tlie blackbirds that hovered about with incessant sharp 
cries. A shot or two reduced these pests to comj^aratiye 
silence, when a blue heron sailed up," poised for a mo- 
ment on a bare limb, and then fell lifeless into the 2:)Ool 
below. Hoping for other shots, we did not gather it in, 
but it was not long before an alligator slowly swam to- 
ward the dead bird, and would probably have carried it 
away but for the arrival of a Mead explosive ball in his 
head. He churned the water for a moment like a pro- 
peller wheel, and then sought the bottom to die among 
the weeds ; and again all was quiet. But we waited in 
vain ; herons sailed about over the marshes, but none 
came near, until, weary and sunburned, we poled back 
to the yacht, glad to get claret and ice. 

Our plan was to go above Lake Monroe, but the 
water was too low on the bar, and our boat could not get 
over. We visited Mellonville, where shad were being 
taken in enormous quantities ; and then anchored abreast 
the site of the old Enterprise Hotel, and landed, to visit 
once more, after several years' absence, the Blue Spring, 
than which none can be more beautiful. It has been 
often described, but it is not easy to convey an idea of 
the deep opaque tint of the water, nor of the picturesque 
effect of the round pool, and its overhanging shade of 
live-oak, palmettoes, and vines. It is about eighty feet in 
diameter, and very deep. There is no motion to the 
blue water, but a large stream flows away from it, show- 
ing the volume of the spring. The water leaves traces 
of white sulphur along the brook, which falls some twenty 
or thirty feet to the lake, affording a perfect place for 
running water and shower baths. A small tent over the 
stream was the only batliing convenience, but in time 
this will undoubtedly be developed into one of tlie most 



172 YACHTING OX THE ST. JOHNS. 

hoautifal resorts on tlic river, and prove one of the most 
la'iiUiiful and agreeable. 

We remained over-night at the MeHonville wliarf, 
visited some gardens conducted by people of taste 
and skill, and saw many evidences of the capacity of 
this soil and clinnite to produce almost every luxury. 
Potatoes were grown in February for the table, oranges 
and bananas flourished free from danger of frost, and 
beautiful flowers rewarded very little care with profuse 
bloom. The geranium was a small tree in the open air, 
and the oleander made shade for a party. Strawberries 
were rijie while ours were under deep snow, and it was 
not easy to put faith in the idea that the cold March 
winds were heapiiig drifts that would for many a day 
resist the sun that fell with such force upon us. 

Turning northward, we gave ourselves to the current, 
and went rai)idly on. At times we would tie to a tree, 
and leaving the yacht, row quietly wj) some of the small 
and unfrequented streams that join the river. Here all 
was as wild as when the Indians pursued game with their 
stone arrow-heads, and took fish with bone spears ; and 
nature seemed to revel in her own power and beauty, 
and cast her glories of golden sunlight and varied foliage 
on every hand. The huge serried leaves of the palmet- 
toes swayed and glistened like shields hiding a woodland 
host. Cypress trees held their light foliage high against 
the sky, and graceful vines hung in long curves from 
them to the dense undergrowth of novel form. Creep- 
ing plants held their bloom over the water on dead 
trunks, and air-plants and ferns found resting places on 
the old oaks, in whose upper branches balls of mistletoe 
ghone with their polished leaves. All this would be 
doubled in reflection, while the dividing line between the 



YACHTIiTG 02^ THE ST. JOHXS. 173 

beautiful reality and tlie no less beautiful image below, 
was so hidden by trailing yines and aquatic plants that 
the vistas of the narrow streams became dreamy and in- 
distinct as they extended far away into an uncertainty of 
waving moss and deceptive shadows. 

Again we would go on miles in advance of the yacht, 
drifting noiselessly with the stream, often stealing upon 
game, and frequently getting a few fish. When tired, 
we could wait until overtaken, tie our skiff behind the 
steamer, and enter the snug cabin to find shelter, rest, 
and all the comforts needful. No life could be more 
enjoyable. We were not confined to a limited district, as 
when in camp, and yet there was the same freedom, and 
the same opportunities for seeing and sharing wild-wood 
pursuits. There was variety in every day, fresh scenes 
each hour, and new temptations and anticipations lead- 
ing on and on from one point to another, all with little 
or no fatigue. 

This steam yachting must develop as one of the most 
l^opular of all indulgences. With our great lakes, con- 
nected by safe and navigable routes, and rivers of endless 
extent and unlimited variety, through which one may 
wander from the tropics to the far north, and find all 
climates and the fruits and game of each, there are un- 
paralleled opportunities for this luxurious life. What- 
ever taste or fancy may impel one to wandering, in a 
yacht all the comforts and conveniences can be carried. 
The botanist can, at leisure and undisturbed, unfold his 
cases of plants ; the artist can sketch and not have to 
gather up the disorder of easel and studio ; the geologist 
may ballast his craft with stone, and the ichnologisfc 
gather relics and form a museum en route. For the 
naturalist and sportsman it is perfection. His rods 



174 TACHTI^Q ON" THE ST. JOHN'S. 

need not be unjointed, or liis guns uncased. He can 
stuff his specimens, load shells, and tie dainty flies by 
a window before which new and varied scenes are pass- 
ing ; and after a hard day's tramping come back to 
abundant comforts. As yet there are but few of these 
dainty craft afloat, and few are aware of the charming 
life they offer. Tlie fleet and dainty private yacht Fal- 
con, on the St. Johns, was a pleasant exponent of a 
sportsman's craft, and in time many more will follow in 
her wake. 

Of course there is a good deal of expense inseparable 
from steam yatching, but very complete launches and 
small yachts are now put afloat in perfect trim for hardly 
any greater cost for purchase or maintenance tlian is 
represented by each of hundreds of fine carriages that are 
to be met with on the fashionable avenues of our great 
cities, and the writer is confident from personal experi- 
ence that, abandoning all ambition for the luxuries of 
cuisine, and seeking only plain and needful arrange- 
ments, a small family or a few gentlemen may make sum- 
mer or winter trips with no more cost than is incurred 
by hundreds of pleasure parties who find far less of com- 
fort and independence than they would commanding 
their own yacht and their own movements. A man 
of as much skill as is required to make a successful 
sportsman, can do a great deal in attending to his 
own boat, so that the cost and annoyance of having 
too many men may be avoided ; but unless our inspection 
laws are made more liberal, he must provide himself and 
his men with expensive licenses, and be sometimes com- 
pelled to take his men from a guild or union commanding 
needlessly high wages. All this, however, is in course 



TACHTIi^G OIT THE ST. JOHKS. 175 

of revisal, and beyond doubt, boats that do not carry 
for hire will be set fi'ce from all needless restrictions.* 

The trip described in these notes \vas made in a small 
yacht chartered by the day. She was about 48 feet long, 
and carried captain, pilot, engineer, and fireman, yet the 
cost for a party of four was only about the same as the 
daily hotel board and passage tickets over the route ; 
while the ability to visit many points without remaining 
until another boat should permit moving on, was a very 
great economy of time and money. Of course much was 
seen and enjoyed that the tourist is usually hurried past, 
or only seen in company with a crowd that does away 
with all the romance and characteristic quiet of the 
wilderness. The captain was a useless party, and did no 
service. The pilot was needful. The fireman was a 
luxury, a mere attendant upon a lazy engineer ; one man 



* The attention of owners of steam yachts is called to the importance of 
embodying in the new steamboat inspection laws some exemptions in favor of 
steam yachts and launches. As the law now stands, they are liable to severe 
penalties for not complying with requirements that neither their size nor 
character render proper, and in the Southern States a number of small explor- 
ing and pleasure boats have been abandoned because of the oppressions of a 
law designed for large vessels, carrying for hire. An immediate effort wUl 
undoubtedly secure such amendments as will encourage the use of steam 
launches, and enable explorers and sportsmen to use them with a reasonable 
economy, and free them from needless legal red tape and embarrassment. For 
instance, the requirement that a boat, however small, must carry an engineer, 
captain, and pilot— no one man to hold two licenses, and these licenses cost- 
ing $10 each, and a good deal of trouble— is one that is unreasonable when 
applied to a small boat, where one man is competent to do all about the engine, 
and the owner can steer, taking his own risk now and then of getting on a 
sand bar. There is no real reason why a boat carrying no persons for hire 
should be under any more restrictions than a sail boat, in which people are 
permitted to drown themselves with the main sheet tied, and no licensed 
sailor on board. Sportsmen cannot carry so many men on small yachts and 
launches. There is neither need nor room for them, and it may be presumed 
that any person owning a craft of the kind will, for his own comfort and 
safety, exercise the same high degree of care and skill that distinguish 
sportsmen, yachtnien, and horsemen, in their guns, boats, and equipage. 



176 TACHTIN^G ON THE ST. JOHNS. 

could easily feed the fire, and run the engine with less 
trouble than he could get out of the fireman's way, so 
that two men, one a competent and careful engineer, 
and the other. a pilot well acquainted with the channels, 
could run a launch or small yacht with ease, and keep 
her under way as many hours per diem as would be 
desirable. 

Not only are the rivers and lakes of Florida atti*active 
cruising grounds, but the inlets and estuaries of the 
southern coasts offer great inducements for the invalid, 
the naturalist, the anti(juarian, and the si^ortsman. In 
the spring, when the sun begins to fall with a fierce heat 
on the rivers, and desj)ite all said to the contrary, does 
render too much exposure impnident, the sea coast is 
perfect. The finer kinds of fish are in season, and many 
beach and bay birds arc to be obtained. In April the 
sea-bathing is safe and pleasant, and invalids and ^vell 
people will do a prudent thing who halt alongshore and 
delay their return until such birds as the bobolinks and 
orioles are with them, and not risk the loss of all the 
benefit of a long and costly trip by coming on with the 
robins and blue-birds, who are beguiled by a few warm 
days into shivering through many a long, bleak storm. 

Your correspondent was, later in the spring, one of a 
party to cruise about the mouth of the St. Johns and the 
Sisters' Islands, and during the trip we landed on Fort 
George Island, where we were kindly driven about by 
the owner, who is engaged, with a number of gentlemen 
of taste, in forming a little paradise. The island is not 
large, about eleven hundred acres. The St. Johns out- 
let is on the south. Fort George Inlet on the north, and 
the Sisters' Inlet on the west. Seaward a densely 
wooded bluff, eighty feet high, shelters from the ocean 



YACHTIXG ON THE ST. JOHNS. 177 

gales, and beyond is a superb beach for driving, bathing, 
cricket, or croquet. From the bhiU the view is of course 
very fine, and all the commerce of the St. Johns river 
passes near at hand. The cleared part of the island has 
a palmetto avenue that has no equal, and the forests are 
more varied than any that are accessible by drives. 
Shell mounds supply material for fine roads, and many 
drives are being laid out that are wonderfully beautiful. 
There is but little of the dreary formal pine ; but huge 
bearded oaks that are worthy of di'uidical homage, and 
stately palmettoes, cast deep wide shadows, while orange 
trees and flowering vines and shrubs fill in the scene with 
luxuriant bloom and foliage. At St. Augustine the 
beaches are inaccessible to carriages, and distant by 
boats, but iiere they are "where one can turn to them 
from the shaded avenues. The fishing is fine, to my 
knowledge, as my fisherman took a thirty-five pound 
bass from my skiff. 

For lingering places for late March, April, and May, 
these islands supply just what all feel the need of. ^"0 
arrangements are yet made for general accommodation, 
but plans are maturing that, when executed, will supply 
a new and valuable resort to already attractive Florida, 
and more tempting to yachtmen than any now existing. 

Eeturning from this rambling disquisition upon drift- 
ing in one's own craft, we come back to our own for the 
time, and tie her to the wharf at Orange Bluff, above Lake 
George. Night has fallen, and we light a pitch-pine fire, 
and cook thereon while enjoying the picturesque effect 
of the rich, mellow light that illumines our boat against 
the dark river, and brings out here and there a tree in. 
bright relief. Some hunters join us, light their pipes, 
and take their nightcap from our flask. The stories of 
8* 



178 



YACnTIKQ OK THE ST. JOHKS. 



a real backwoodsman arc always amusing, and awaken 
the common interest of all the craft. So it is late before 
we mature plans with our new friends for a hunt to- 
gether, and they call their dogs and go to their cabin, 
and we turn in in the yacht. 

L. W. Ledyard. 



XX. 



AMONG THE SEMmOLES. 

BY the treaty of 1842, the few Seminoles remaining 
in Florida after the war, were confined to the south- 
ern portion of the peninsula. There they still remain, 
between two and three hundred in number, leading a 
peaceful life, cultivating their fields, and hunting. They 
are governed by two chiefs ; those around the southern 
shore of Lake Okeechobee by Tustenuggee, and those 
east of that great lake by Tiger Tailee. Their inter- 
course with white men is limited to occasional trad- 
ing visits to Indian river and the Keys. Though they 
have existed as a nation for one hundred years, very lit- 
tle is known regarding their language, customs, and 
social life. 

It was with the avowed object of studying the Indian 
in his native wilds that I left Indian river one beautiful 
spring morning in '72. I had provided my elf with an 
ox-cart, oxen of course, and a guide — thoug]] just what 
he was a guide of, and to where, I've not satic^nctorily 
determined to this day — and the usual amount of hunters' 
traps. There was also a colored individual, who had 
charge of the frying-pan and coffee pot. Well, we pro- 
gressed favorably enough, till the second night out found 
us fifteen miles from my camp on Indian river, thirty 
miles from Okeechobee, and further travel apparently 



180 ' AMOXG THE SEMINOLES. 

stopped bj a long line of cypress swiimp. So we camped 
on the Alpattiokee. Alpattiokee is Seminole for Alli- 
gator creek. Game was abundant ; deer in herds on 
the savannas ; turkeys in flocks in the hammocks ; the 
half-dry creek bed swarmed with iljis and heron of 
every hue, and alligators were in abundance. They 
crawled upon the banks x)f the creek, reposed upon its 
sand bars, and swam its waters. They made night hid- 
eous witli their bellowings, and kept our mastiff in per- 
petual dread of being devoured by assailing him while 
he reposed by our camp-fire. Every inducement for the 
stay of hunter or naturalist was offered, and every tramp 
and hunt would bring new additions of rare plants and 
birds to my collection. 

While hunting along the various creeks I discovered 
signs of Indians — in the sand of the dry creek-bed the 
impressions of moccasined feet ; on its banks a "cabbage 
palm" with its terminal bud torn out and the leaves 
scattered. An old Indian camp, strewn with bones of 
deer, turkey, and tortoise, showed that the place was a 
favorite hunting ground. There were fresh tracks of 
three Indian hunters, besides fainter ones of a woman 
and child. One day Jim came in with the pickaninny's 
playthings — an alligator tooth, two or three grotesquely- 
shaped pieces of brier root, and a walnut. While we 
were examining them we heard a faint tinkling in the 
distance, and a preliminary reconnoisance revealed three 
Indians approaching the ford in the creek near our camp. 
Affecting to be emi)loyed with our duties, we only looked 
up as they appeared, and they, taking no notice of us, 
marched on with heads erect till brought to a halt by 
Jim, who ran forward with extended liand and a hearty 
*' Howdy." Then their swarthy faces displayed grins 



a:moxg the se^iixoles. 181 

which grew broad and loud as we summoned unhappy 
Tom to prepare a repast for the weary aborigines. Ee- 
moving from their pony a huge pack, upon which was a 
tin kettle, which had made the tintinnabulation we had 
heard, they hobbled his feet and sat down. While they 
were demolishing the huge pile of flapjacks which Jim 
set before them, I had an opportunity for stud3dng their 
dress and features. 

"Tiger," the oldest, was about seyenty years old, 
and had fought in the Seminole war. He was rather 
above the medium height, broad shouldered, massive 
arms, and legs like mahogany pillars, worn smooth and 
polished by many a brush with thicket and brier. His 
nose and lips indicated a trace of negro blood. His iron- 
gray hair straggled over a greasy bandana bound about 
his temples. His broad shoulders were artistically 
draped in two ragged shirts of "hickory," or striped 
homespun, the inner one about a foot longer than the 
outer, and reaching nearly to his knees. A breech cloth 
and moccasins completed his attire. Charley Osceola 
was a young man of twenty, claiming to be a descendant 
of the famous chief Osceola. Over six feet high, with 
broad shoulders and finely-shaped limbs, erect and 
straight, he was my beau ideal of an Indian brave. His 
eyes were small, black, and keen, his voice was musical, 
and he spoke in a firm, gentle manner that won my heart 
at once. His hair was thick, coarse, and black, with the 
changeable purple of tlie raven's wing. It was shaved 
close at the sides, leaving a ridge on the crown, spread- 
ing toward the neck, and hanging in braids over the 
shoulders. His dress was similar to Tiger's. The 
pickaninny was hardly worth a description. Each car- 



182 AMONG THE SEMINOLES. * 

ricd a rifle, a reserve supi)ly of bows and arrows, and 
a pouch for aminunition, etc. 

They obstinately refused to talk '* Yankaistahadka," 
or Yankee talk, but used their own language. It was a 
long time before I could be made to understand that 
" shatokanowa humkin " meant one dollar, the price of 
a set of bows and arrows, but after much labor I mas- 
tered their system of numeration up to a thousand, 
thougli I will now admit that I was much exercised at 
^' choj^kakolchokolin," and gave it up. 

AVhile Osceola was making me some talipikahs, or 
moccasins, Jim was endeavoring to extract from Tiger 
the pro2-)er route to Lake Okeechobee, and whether we 
could reach it Avith our ox-cart. Jim had mingled with 
the Indians in his youth, and prided himself upon his 
accomplishments in the manner of dealing with them, 
and S2)eaking their language. Tiger sat upon his 
haunches beneath the sj)reading branches of a live-oak, 
looking like some ragged Turk. 

Jim (in a loud voice) — " Okeechobee ; you savez ? " 

Tiger— "Eiicaii'' (yes). 

Jivi — " Okeechobee ; me go ; walkah (oxen) go ; 
Yankaistahadka go ; hey ?" 

Tiger — " Eucah ; walkah, me eatum ; good ! " 

Jim — " No, you old fool (emphasized) ; you know 
more'n you pertend ; walkah no slumpy, slumpy, no 
sticky, icky in the mud ; that's what I mean." 

Tiger—" Ilaigh ! " 

Jim — " Oh, you old blackleg ; you consarned old 
manatee ! Can't you talk Istachatta (Indian), or do yer 
mean to go back on yer native tongue ? Come, now, 
talk Yankee talk ; none of your dog-goned nonsense and 
hog Latin. Okeechobee, me go; walkah go; cartah go; 



AMOifG THE SEMINOLES. 183 

Istaliista (mulatto) go ; no get stuckali, no have to come 
backali ; hey ? " 

[This in fearful tones, for Jim held, with many 
others, that you could make any foreigner understand, 
provided you spoke loud enough]. 

Tiger — '^ Istalusta ; shookah, me give um ; pahlen ! " 
and he looked wistfully at Tom. 

Jim — ^' Ten hogs for that nigger ! There, I'll give 
up ; the — something — heathenish old chattymico don't 
know Injun no more'n a cracker ! " 

A peculiar twinkle of Tiger's eyes convinced me that 
he "knew more'n he pertended," but what his reasons 
were for baffling Jim's curiosity I didn't know till later. 

That night we left our camp on the Alpattiokee, and 
made our fire at the foot of the "forked cabbage," on a 
branch of the Alpattie. The Indians accompanied us, 
though unasked. It seems that Tiger had divined Jim's 
meaning, and had determined to jorevent us from reach- 
ing our destination. He had concocted a fearful scheme 
to prevent our departure — it was to eat us out. I didn't 
know it at the time, or I shouldn't have aided them as 
I did. 

The shades of night and the time for our evening re- 
past drew near. In honor of our guests, Tom had 
cooked just four times the usual quantity of flapjacks, 
besides our last steak of venison. I had devoured but 
one flapjack, and was about securing another, when, lo ! 
they were not. Tiger sat dignified and sad ; Charley 
dignified and serious; " Fistilokeen " dignified and dirty. 
The corners of their mouths ran hog juice, their faces 
and hands were unctuous with it, yet there they sat, 
patiently waiting, sad and serious ; grieved even, judg- 
ing from their countenances. 



184 AMONG THE SEMINOLES. 

Tom refused to cook any more. 

*'Is-tii-liis-ta lazy; ho-la-wan-gus !" said Tiger. 

Thus taunted, Tom broke open our last package of 
flour, and busied liimself, cursing the Indians the while, 
till they all united in a satisfied '*me full!" These 
untutored "sons of the forest" soon left us, with their 
customary " me hiepus j " (me go), and we were not 
very sorry that, to use their own expression, they were 
"sui-cus-j " (gone). From Tom's quarters, that night, I 
heard a muttered blessing upon the " Is-ta-chat-tas." 
In tlie morning they brought us a peace-offering of 
venison, and that night we had an alligator hunt by 
moonlight. 

I shall never forget the weird aspect of the scene 
spread out before us, as we assembled silently upon the 
banks of the creek. The creek bed could be traced 
through the vast plain by the occasional clumps of 
palms, till lost in the swamp far beyond. The bright 
plumaged herons, that told of its meanderings as they 
hovered over it by day, were now gone, and silence, as 
of the grave, reigned over us. The creek-bed was dry 
and exposed, excej^t at intervals there were great holes 
full of alligators — rightly called " alligator holes. " Here, 
crowded together, they were patiently awaiting the set- 
ting in of the rainy season, which would set them free 
from their narrow prisons. 

The " 'gators " seemed to have had notice of our 
coming, as, when we gathered upon the steep bank, not 
a head was visible. "Ump, ump, ump!"said Fistilo- 
keen, imitating the grunting of a young alligator. Soon 
a dozen knotty heads showed themselves, peering anxi- 
ously above the water. At the slightest motion they 
would disappear. 



AMOKG THE SEMIJ;rOLES. 185 

*'TJmp, ump, ump, ump, ump !" 

The evil-looking eyes again appeared, and the round 
noses gave utterance to similar though louder sounds. 
Up they came, silently, cautiously, till I counted twenty- 
seven above the water of the little pond. Giving me 
the line, Jim launched the harpoon at the side of the 
largest. True — as his aim always was — the sharp head 
pierced the reptile's side in its most vulnerable part, just 
behind the fore-leg. A rush, a roar, as though all the 
bulls of the prairie had united in one grand outburst, 
and this king of Alpattiokee sped from one end to the 
other of his small kingdom, making the water boil, and 
leaving a bloody wake behind him. I have seen the 
dolphin and porpoise cross and recross the bow of a 
steamer at full speed, I have seen the shark and bluefish 
in their most desperate rushes, but it did seem to me, 
standing by that solitary creek in the soft moonlight, as 
I slackened and tightened the line as the alligator alter- 
nately sulked and darted, that the remarkable speed of 
those fishes was paralleled in the lightning-like rapidity 
with which that huge serrated tail clove the ^vater and 
forced its owner onward. After a little while he got to 
be somewhat exhausted, and I passed the line to the rest 
of the party and seized the axe, to be ready for him as he 
was drawn ashore. It was hard work even then to land 
him on the soft sand, and he would throw that huge 
tail around till it nearly touched his nose, and snap his 
jaws till the night air resounded again. But, watching 
my chance, I sunk the axe deep in his skull, and his 
struggles ceased as the quivering paw^s clawed the sand 
convulsively and then relaxed. We finished eight more 
before midnight. A ghastly spectacle they formed. 



186 AMOXQ THE SEMIXOLES. 

lying upon their backs, their wliito bellies and mailed 
sides glistening in the moonlight. 

^' Umph ! alpatah fight heap ! " was the only excla- 
mation our red brothers made. 

A few days later we parted from our friends, and, 
after sending Jim into the river, I hired another guide 
and set out for the Indian settlement. The man I now 
hired was an old *^ cow herder," having charge of several 
hundred cattle which roamed in a half-wild state through 
the woods and over the vast prairies. His house was the 
only one between Indian river and Lake Okeechobee, a 
distance of nearly fifty miles. We left the cabin, 
mounted upon two stallions trained for cattle hunting 
and following narrow trails. Each horse carried a pair 
of saddle-bags, bag of corn, pair of blankets, and a man. 
Each man had a gun, pint cup, and big knife. Leaving 
the cabin early one day, we reached the Indian settle- 
ment late the next. Our only guide was a narrow trail 
across the vast plats, following dry creek-beds, through 
cypress swamps and saw-grass jungles, beneath gigantic 
pines and through thick palmetto scrub. We followed 
this trail, made by the Indians, in a southwesterly direc- 
tion till we struck the saw-grass bordering the '' Big 
Cypress," a belt of cypress swamp nearly forty miles in 
length. Through this swamp there was but one narrow, 
blind trail, carefully concealed, lest the white man 
should find it. But my guide was an old ^' tracker " 
during the Seminole war, and struck it just where it en- 
tered the swamp. Dismounting, we attempted to lead 
our horses through. Bleeding and torn we emerged 
from the saw-grass to enter the blackest looking swamp 
it was ever my lot to behold. The tall cypress grew high 
above our heads, shutting out every ray of light ; long 



amo:n"g the semijs^oles. 187 

vines and hooked briers hung from the limbs above and 
festooned every tree. The mud beneath was of the 
blackest and softest ; stagnant pools of water, covered 
with green slime, gave hiding places to numberless alli- 
gators and moccasin snakes, numbers of which unwound 
themselves from the gnarled cypress trees and wriggled 
silently away after darting at us their forked tongues. 
While carefully avoiding these noxious places a long vine 
would come athwart my horse's back, sweeping blankets, 
saddle-bags and all into the mud. To describe the rage 
of my guide at such a juncture would be impossible. I 
was mad, but he was even more so, and swore and 
stormed in a way that was perfectly frightful, caus- 
ing the innocent snakes and alligators to flee in ter- 
ror still farther into the black fastnesses of the swamp. 
My rage died away as his increased, for I was convinced 
that black as was the picture, he was doing it justice. 
At every leap our poor beasts sank above their knees, and 
it required much dodging to lead them through the nar- 
row apertures and escape being struck by their fore feet. 
Never was daylight hailed more joyfully than when we 
emerged from the tangled thicket and at last reached 
solid ground. The Big Cypress was passed, and we 
were in the Indian country. 

A few miles over a level prairie and we saw the first 
habitation. A little further, and we caught sight of a 
squaw running rapidly to apprise the men at work in the 
swamps of our arrival. They couldn't have chosen a 
locality more favorable to their mode of living than this. 
A swamp bounded it on the north and east, and a forest 
of pines on the south and west. The scene presented 
was one of peaceful rest and happiness. What wonder 
that the Seminole fought for his chosen land as he did ! 



188 AMOIS^G THE SEMIKOLES. 

Tlie meadow lurk trilled his clear notes from the grass, 
where, also, we heard the mellow whistle of the quail. 
\Vood})eckers and paroquets Hew screaming by, and the 
wood ibis winged his silent way overhead. 

Soon the entire population came forth to meet us, 
with the exception of the women, and Ave were welcomed 
to the village. There were sixteen shanties grouped 
together, with that of the chiefs a little way off. Four 
posts supported a pitched roof, thatched with palmetto 
leaves. The shanty was open at the sides and ends ; a 
raised platform of logs the whole length and breadth 
was used to sleep upon by night, and as a table and 
chairs, etc., by day. AVe were much annoyed by the 
dogs, who would come about us examining everything 
we had. They were nasty little curs, most of them, 
who would creep carefully up to us, with noses extended 
and tails between their legs, and who would scurry away 
at the least motion. I am prepared to vouch for the 
statement of the old sailor, Romans, who, in 1770, says : 
"Tliey (the Creeks) are very fond of dogs, insomuch 
as never to kill one out of a litter ; and it is not uncom- 
mon in the nation to see a dog, very lean, and so sensible 
of his misfortune as to seek a wall or post for his support 
before venturing to bark." (Another '^old joke)." I 
mention things in their natural order of affection in the 
Indian estimation — dog, hog, squaw, and pickaninny. 
The hogs were black, as all Florida hogs are, and nu- 
merous. The children were brown, and numerous." The 
girls and young squaws were much superior to their 
degraded sisters of the west in ])oint of beauty and 
cleanliness. Of medium heiglit, with small haiuls and 
feet and well-slia])ed limbs. Their heads were small and 
well-shaped ; eyes black and lustrous ; nose small and 



AMONG THE SEMI]SrOLES. 189 

straight ; mouth small and full-lipped. Their hair was 
long, black, and abundant. The older women were less 
prepossessing, as older women usually are. All, how- 
ever, had the same low, musical voice, excepting the old 
hags and habitual tobacco chewers. The women wore a 
short cape over the shouldeis, and a petticoat. These 
two articles, with a profusion of beads, completed their 
attire, with, of course, moccasins. The only exception to 
this style was a young widow, who, being in mourning, 
was allowed to wear but a single apron, and was forbid- 
den by their law to leave camp for two years. The 
squaws are very careful of their master's health. Picka- 
ninnies under twelve, or thereabouts, were in a " state 
of nature ; " boys over twelve, and under sixteen, wore a 
shirt, and girls a petticoat ; women as described. Upon 
great occasions both sexes ornament themselves with 
beads, ribbons, and silver. 

At first the maidens were coy and bashful, but they 
soon overcame their natural diffidence, and sweetly 
insinuated that " ichee " (tobacco), or " on-mee " (whis- 
key), would not be unacceptable. 

After a short stay at the village, we all went over to 
Indian Parker's cornfield, a mile away in the swamp. 
Parker, his wife and children, were all at work when we 
arrived, but soon washed themselves, and set before us 
great milky ears of corn, roasted in the ashes. He had 
corn over six feet high, pumpkins, beans, etc., all grow- 
ing finely — this in April. N'ext, we visited Tiger at his 
plantation. I met with a warm reception, and Avas 
introduced to his squaw. In the course of our conver- 
sation he said : '^ You hum-bux-j ? " I told him I 
thought not ; I never had to my present knowledge. 
He then repeated more earnestly, '' You humbuxj ! " 



190 AMOXQ THE SEMIX0LE3. 

This time I got ycxccI, and told liim I wasn't. A third 
*'' luimbuxj," accompanied ])y a gcstnre, directed my 
attention to a small i)almctto shanty, beneath which 
were three iron })ots, around which were three hungry 
Indians, and from wliich (the pots, not the shanty) they 
Avere " hunibuxjing " after the most approved style. As 
I was extremely hungry I humhuxjed. Here was an 
opportunity ! Tiger had eaten me out at Alligator 
creek ; I would noAV pay him back in kind. I looked 
for my guide ; he had disappeared. I unbuckled my 
belt, laid aside my revolver, and joined the band of revel- 
lers. " How romantic," thought I ; 'Uo be sure, things 
aren't just as I'd like to have them, but then, when 
you're in Rome, etc." The pot nearest me contained a 
dirty looking liquid, which, as near I could remember, 
not having seen any for six months, looked exactly like 
dish-water, boiled over twice, with the dish-rag left in. 
It was corn and water boiled. A huge wooden spoon 
was employed to convey this delectable nourishment to 
its proper receptacle — the mouth. The bowl of the 
aforesaid spoon was as big as a baby's head, and while I 
was wondering how 'twas used, a shock-headed urchin 
inserted it, drew it forth full, elevated it till the handle 
pointed toward the zenith, when presto ! the dish-water 
disappeared, the spoon was returned to the pot with a 
swoop of satisfaction, and Injun number two proceeded 
to do likewise. Number three did even so, and I was 
expected to ditto. I was hungry ; I knew it ; I'd eaten 
nothing but the roast corn since sunrise, and had ridden 
near thirty miles that day. But, strangely, my appetite 
was gone. I forgave Tiger for eating all my Ilai)jacks ; 
I promised myself to forget it. After all, he hadn't 
done so very badl}^ But the eyes of all were upon me. 



amo:n"g the semi2s"oles. 191 

I must eat, or lose my influence. Gently I grasped the 
spoon, coyly I fished for a few kernels of corn, and very 
little of the dish-water. I shut my eyes, opened my 
mouth, shuddered, gulped — lo, 'twas done ! The sec- 
ond pot contained pieces of boiled meat about an inch 
square, which proved very good eating. So, inserting 
my fingers, a la Indian, I drew forth a piece and ate it. 
The third vessel contained about thirty feet of sausage, 
looking so natural and life-like that I instinctively re- 
coiled. One of my brother revellers would seize one end 
of the membranous rope, and, after storing away as 
much as his mouth would contain, would sever by a 
dexterous cut the adipose tissue and pass it to the next. 
When my turn came I begged to be excused, and I've 
never hankered for sausage since. 

I stuck to pot No. 2 ; my appetite returned. I yet 
cherished revengeful feelings toward Tiger, and did my 
best. The meat was tender and juicy ; moreover, it had 
a delicious flavor that I never had found pork possessed 
of. Of course it was pork ; it wasn't venison, nor bear, 
nor coon ; and I vowed I would get the receipt, and that 
the next stray pig should be offered up. To be sure 
that it was a pig I said to ^^ Charley," imitating the 
Indian manner, '^ Um ; good ; too much ; ^ Shoko- 
calika ? '" A negative shake of the head, and a single 
word, ^'Efab" (dog), terminated the rej)ast. In my 
sleep that night came visions of fearful Indian curs, 
chopped into small pieces, yet having the power to bark 
and bite. 

As a special honor, I was assigned the chief's shanty 
to sleep in that night, he being away. It differed in no 
way from the rest, and probably the round logs which 
made my bed were just as hard as the others. 



192 AMONG THE SEMTNOLES. 

The next clay we visited tlie corn fields, and, a rain 
coming np, accoini)anied Parker and Tiger to their slian- 
ties. My guide having offered his horse to Parker's 
squaw, I couhl do no less than offer mine to the old 
squaw, wliicli Tiger accepted in behalf of himself. I 
hoped he would break his neck. It was an unique pro- 
cession that wound through the shady cypress swamps 
and over the prairie. First there were Parker's two 
daughters — young ladies of sixteen and seventeen respec- 
tively — who had captured one of papa's colls, and, 
mounted upon its back man-fashion, led the cavalcade. 
They seemed to be enjoying themselves, and their musi- 
cal laughter would come floating back at every leap and 
kick of tlieir half-broken steed. Next came Parker's 
wife, astride my guide's pony, with a solemn-looking 
pappoose on her back, holding up her scanty skirts with 
one hand, while with the other she guided the beast. 
Next came Tiger, witli my rubber blanket over his head, 
a tin kettle on one arm, an iron pot on the other, and a 
lap full of corn. He didn't see the comical figure he cut, 
but treated the whole matter as a thing of serious mo- 
ment. Parker, a host of pickaninnies, eleven dogs, a 
young colt, and a hog or two came next. My guide and 
I came hist. The procession started ; the girls had 
stripped, and wTre clinging to the pony and eacli other 
for dear life. We had gone but a few rods before the 
pony suddenly elevated his heels, hmding the girls — a 
confused vision of arms and legs — rods away in the mud. 
AVith another flourish of his heels, and a snort of defi- 
ance, he then scoured away over the plain. That started 
the rest ; my guide's pony vainly strove to throw his 
burden. Tiger had his hands particularly full as the bay 
stallion sped awa}^ with the blanket flapping and pail 



AMON"Q THE SEMINOLES. 193 

rattling. I shall never forget the desperate expression 
of Tiger's face as he went off, clinging to the horse and 
shouting broken fragments of Seminole, such as */ Che- 
la-koa (horse) ho-la-wan-gus ('jad) ; cha-high-wagh 
(squaw), ho-la-wan-gus — dam ! " The colt now went for 
the scene, upsetting a whole line of dogs, and extorting 
profane exclamations from the patient Parker. After 
we had reached the shanties they came in, one after 
another, and, remoying their wet garments (such as had 
any), we squatted around the cheerful blaze of pine 
knots, placed Indian fashion, with the ends toward the 
centre of the flame. 

According to promise, Charley was to pilot me to 
Lake Okeechobee, but as seyeral days elapsed, and no 
offer was made, I became impatient, and anxiously 
sought for information regarding it. The only satis- 
factory replies I received were as to its size : 

* 'Okeechobee, achiska pahleorstein, heap long ; achis- 
ka pahlehokolin." 

This intelligence was very gratifying, as it settled 
many misgivings I had indulged in 

Teed Beveklt. 



I 



XXL 



IN THE CYPRESS SWAMPS 

LAKE OKEECHOBEE is almost as little known 
1 now as it was one hundred years ago, when it 
rejoiced in the name of Mayaco. Then everything mys- 
terious and inexplicable w^as referred to Lake ^Liyaco. 
The source of the river St. Johns, even now unsettled, 
was said to be there. Another river, the St. Lucie, had 
its rise there, and strange tales were told of the wonder- 
ful lake by a Spanish captive, who reached it by this 
river. The wonderful sacred vulture of Bartram, so 
vividly described by that naturalist, was said to be a res- 
ident of Okeechobee, aiid hasn't been seen since its first 
description, a century ago. With a few exceptions, 
during the Seminole war, Lake Okeechobee has not been, 
visited by white men. There is no portion of our great 
western domain of the same area so completely unknown 
to us. There the Seminole is said to have his best plan- 
tations and choicest hunting grounds. In the secure 
fastnesses of the Everglades he may bid defiance to our 
largest armies, and laugh at every effort to secure him. 

When I found myself within six miles of the great 
lake, I thought that I should soon penetrate the dark 
belt of cypress that surrounded it, and disclose some of 
the wonders locked Avithin its mysterious shores. I had 
the promise from my Seminole guide that he would fetch 



IJT THE CYPRESS SWAMPS. 195 

me to its shores ere another sun had set. Making every 
preparation, the morning agreed upon I sought my 
guide. To my surprise, he refused to go, alleging, as 
his only reason, that Tiger wouldn't let him. All my 
persuasions were useless. Offers of revolver, howie 
knife, and money were alike unavailing. Tiger was 
chief in the head chief's absence, and could not be dis- 
obeyed. The reason of Tiger's veto, as I afterward 
ascertained, was that I had not counselled him first, and 
he felt affronted. At last a happy thought struck me. 
Would he go within a mile of the lake ? Yes, he would 
do that ; and we were soon on the trail leading westward. 
We passed through a small settlement of shanties, the 
inhabitants of which had gone on a hunt, leaving all 
their household goods stortd away beneath the palmetto 
thatch. Over broad prairies we travelled without seeing 
an indication of life, and through pine barrens without 
a single animal visible ; all had been killed, probably, by 
the Indians. Soon we left the dense swamp that circled 
the edge of the piney woods, and struck a wide stretch 
of jDrairie extending north and south as far as the eye 
could reach. West we could see the tall cypress said to 
border the lake. Just as we reached a little clump of 
palmettoes, about midway the prairie, a thunder-storm — 
such as only Florida is capable of — burst upon us. For 
an hour the flood came down, and drenched us and our 
goods, although we were covered with the broad leaves 
of the palmetto. 

Soon it was over, and the sun came out, and there 
was a solemn hush, broken only by a low, sullen roar, like 
the roll of the sea, coming from the west. I knew with- 
out other explanation what that was. It was the break- 
ing of the surf upon the shore of Lake Okeechobee. So 



196 IK THE CYPRESS SWAMPS. 

near, yet lilvcly to remain as unseen as though I was a 
lumdred miles away, for my Indian p^nide refused to go 
furtlier, and to seek a trail was an almost hopeless task. 
No present would tempt him ; no mount of persuasion 
move him. So we left him to return to his camp, and 
pursued our way toward the north. All that afternoon 
we hunted for a trail that would take us to the lake ; 
but none was found, and so we made our fire beneath a 
lone clump of pines at night, having accomplished 
nothing. Over thirty years before had the troopers, 
hunting the Seminoles, camped in this very place. There 
existed here but one trace of civilization, and that was 
the old wagon trail over which the supplies for Fort Van 
Swearengen and the lower forts were drawn. Though 
unused since the Indian war, except by some settler flee- 
ing from the dread of conscription during the rebellion, 
it still showed to the experienced e3'e where the wheels 
had worn. How strange that impression should remain 
so long ! Though at first unable to discover the slightest 
trace of it, I could soon follow its course almost instinc- 
tively, as sometimes the evidences of its existence were so 
indefinite that I could hardly tell what it was that showed 
it. It might be aAVorn palmetto root, a different kind of 
grass, or a slight depression in the retentive soil ; some- 
times, seeing it rods away, a close examination near 
would fail to reveal its presence. Next morning we 
followed the trail till it lost itself in a swamp, and tlien 
we struck the piney woods, intending to swing around till 
we could fetch Fort Bassenger, on the Kissimee river. 
On and on we went, till our passage seemed stopped by a 
black, deep creek, overhung with dark cypress, and 
swarming with alligators. This creek was no doubt flow- 
ing directly into Okeechobee, but, as much as I wanted to 



I5T THE CYPRESS SWAMPS 197 

go with it, I was powerless for the want of a boat. There 
was nothing for us but to cross it, though we were 
obliged to swim with the criticising gaze of dozens of 
alligators fixed upon us, and dodge fallen trees and 
tangled vines as best we could. Beyond was another 
swamp, and still beyond this a broad stretch of blessed 
prairie. Over this we cantered for miles, then through 
deep woods, now through swamps, belly deep in mud, 
and still no signs of the signal smokes that were to indi- 
cate the hunter's camp at Fort Bassenger. Before night 
it dawned upon us that we were lost. Now, so long as 
a man will fight off the conviction that hois lost, there is 
hope that he may eventually find his' way out. But my 
guide, no sooner than this idea had dawned ujDon him, 
gave himself over to the most unreasonable of actions 
and doings. Heretofore I trusted in him implicitly, but 
I now saw that his reason was gone for the time, and my 
heart sank. Yielding to my persuasions, he camj^ed 
in a palmetto clump, and we ate our last biscuit and 
piece of pork. We had saved this same pork to the last, 
hoping that we could induce some unwary Indian to ac- 
cept it, in lieu of more palatable food. But no Seminole 
was so accommodating, and we chewed it in silence. 
The rind was an inch thick, and had the appearance of 
amber. I sliced my piece thin and bolted it, and when 
my guide said it was six jears old I didn't raise a doubt. 
In the morning we awoke refreshed, and heading our 
horses northward we set out. Notwithstanding his age 
and experience, my guide allowed his fears to control 
him, and would not sto^o to secure one of the many deer 
that grazed about us, for fear that Vv^e should not reach 
our destination, and should have to pass another night 
in the woods. 



198 IX THE CYPRESS SWAMPS. 

Toward noon wc cnicrn^cd nj^oii the Kissimmeeprnirie, 
and then could tell with tolerable certainty the course to 
take. Abandoning- all hope of reachin<^ the river, we 
struck for the old military road, hoping to reach it 
before night. Faint and weary as we were, lie would 
not rest, but pressed insanely on, with but one idea — to 
reacli a settler's cabin before night set in. As for me I 
did not care. I was at the mercy of my guide, and 
could do nothing with him in his present state. 

To turn my back upon Lake Okeechobee, and give 
over all hope of seeing it, required a hard struggle. But 
I had to yield to necessity, and so every hour saw us 
further and further away. Toward noon we stopped at 
a brackish pool to quench our thirst, and here I ate my 
dinner, though I didn't mean to, as it consisted of two 
small fish, which went down alive in the muddy water 
and met an untimely death. On and on we rushed. 
The deer sprang u]) from their noonday rest and skip- 
ped away, with their white banners waving tantalizingly 
near. Sand-hill cranes flew screaming from under our 
very noses. Thousands of cattle now appeared dotting 
the prairie. In the midst of plenty we had passed 
nearly twenty-four hours without food. In the after- 
noon I grew weary of the continual striking of my sad- 
dle-bags against my legs, and lightened ship by throw- 
ing over the heaviest of my treasures. A bottle of 
arsenic went first, then five pounds of shot, a lot of car- 
tridges, and everything not actually necessary 

The finder will be suitably rewarded. 

Just before Ave reached the trail we were seeking, a 
beautiful fox sprang up, and, stopping a minute too long 
to look at t}ie first men he probably ever met, I gave 
him a fiying shot from the saddle that tumbled him over. 



IN THE CYPRESS SWAMPS. 199 

Then I was sorry that I had killed the animal for mere 
sport, and vowed I'd not do it again. Yet so strong is 
the instinct that, riding within forty yards of a deer — 
offering too beautiful a shot to resist — I handed my gun 
to my guide and let him shoot. But he didn't hit him, 
and I wished I'd fired instead. As the sun dipped below 
the horizon we rode out upon the old military road that 
crosses the peninsula from the Atlantic to the Gulf. 
We struck it near the site of old Fort Dunn, the parade 
ground of which is still in tolerable condition, and can- 
tering a mile or two further soon sighted the settler's 
house, and were happy. 

Though this man owned hundreds of cattle, and 
counted as his all the acres he desired, he had nothing 
in the larder but a few sweet potatoes ; but he freely 
shared those few. After a man has fasted twenty-four 
hours, buttermilk and sweet potatoes will fill a void 
acceptably. That night we slept beneath a roof, and I 
shared a bed with four vigorous boys and about three 
millions of very active fleas. Yet, though the fleas pos- 
sessed uncommon agility, and showed decidedly plile- 
botomous disj)ositions, and though there was music in the 
air, and everywhere else, from the joint and several 
efforts of the various noses in the room, and though the 
boys aforesaid procured a corner in blankets, and left 
me open to the attacks of several very bloodthirsty bands 
of mosquitoes, / sle])t. And it was sweet potatoes and 
buttermilk that awoke me in the morning. Thirty 
miles we accomplished before dark that day, riding 
across the St. Johns prairies, which fairly swarmed with 
turkeys, and over the Alapattie flats, where we found 
the creeks, so dry when we left, full to overfloAving. 
What was my surprise, when I reached my guide's cabin, 



200 IX THE CYPRESS SWAMPS. 

to fiiiil Indian Parker tlicrc with a lot of deer skins, 
wliicli I liad bought, paid for, and left — since then giving 
up all hope of seeing them. Such is Seminole honesty ! 
What white man would have ridden sixty miles to 
restore another's goods ? I knew of one who wouldn't. 

Fred Beverly. 



XXII. 
CRUISING ALONG SHORE. 

IN Florida, eighty miles due south of St. Augustine, 
lies an immense lagoon of salt water, called by the 
old Spaniards Rio d'Ais, by the Indians Aisa Natcha, 
and by Floridians Indian river. Called by whatever 
name it may be, it is the most wonderful portion of that 
wonderful State. Wonderful for its bland and genial 
climate ; wonderful for its birds, beasts, and fishes ; 
wonderful, above all, for its people, who live in such a 
state of indolence as causes a Northerner to shudder. 
Situated mainly below the frost line, many tropical 
fruits reach perfection beneath its burning sun. The 
lime, lemon, guava, banana, pineapple, citron, and, of 
course, the orange, in perfection. The climate here is 
peculiarly adapted to the needs of the consumptive, and 
he can live here for years in apparent health after other 
climates have been tried in vain. 

PeojDle who have tried California, Minnesota, and 
the various resorts in the Old World, have pronounced 
Indian river in advance of them all. The difficulties 
attending a trip here, and the insufficient accommoda- 
tions, have prevented its advantages — its natural advan- 
tages — from becoming generally known. The steamer 
up the St. Johns, from Jacksonville to Salt Lake, a 
distance of two hundred and seventy-five miles, and a 
9* 



202 CRUISIXG ALOXG SHORE. 

portage of six miles will bring the traveller to the banks 
of Indian river, at Harvey's, or Sand Point, where boat 
and guides may be hired down the river to Jupiter, one 
hundred and thirty miles further. The cost of transpor- 
tation from Xew York to Sand Point will be about sixty 
dollars. The visitor had better camp, and bring with 
hini such articles of need as a camper-out appreciates. 
An outfit may be purchased at Jacksonville at a trifling 
advance on New York prices. It was thus that I pre- 
pared to enjoy the pleasures of Indian river. The 
middle of March found me waiting at Harvey's for a 
favorable wind down the river. 

Though the sand that lined the many bays was white 
as snow, and the palms, with their columnar trunks and 
dark green fronds, made graceful pictures, I was tired 
of gazing upon the same ones day after day, and finally 
persuaded my boatman to visit the upper portion of the 
river before descending. A north-west wind had driven 
the water upon the opposite shore two days before, and 
left his little boat high and dry, with fifty feet of sand 
flats intervening between her and navigation. But the 
wind again hauled southward, deluging the western 
shore with returning waters and enabling us to get 
under way. As this wind was contrary for a down-river 
tri|^ we headed for a different quarter, purposing to 
visit tlie largest orange grove in Florida, so said to be, 
and the best. Ten miles sailing in a north-easterly 
direction brouglit us to the landing. Did you, reader, 
ever inhale the fragrance of a cluster of orange blos- 
soms ? You remember the exquisite penetrating per- 
fume. Well, add to the cluster tens of thousands more 
— the efflorescence of two thousand trees. The subtle 
odor enveloped our boat in a cloud of incense, evoked 



CRUISING alo:n"G shore. 203 

b}^ the sun and wafted to our senses by a gentle breeze. 
A mile away we were made aware of the existence of the 
grove, yet hidden from ns by a circling belt of palms. 
Two thousand trees, in long straight rows, their glossy 
green tops flecked with immaculate blossoms, a carpet 
of emerald sjoangled with snowy stars. In the centre of 
the grove we found the residence of the proprietor. 
Captain Dummit — a log-cabin with palmetto-thatched 
roof. Think of a log-cabin in the Garden of Eden ! 
But this is but one of the worthy captain's peculiarities. 
There is a mystery surrounding him which he never 
vouchsafes to break. Even in his cups — I should say 
buckets — never a word is uttered regarding his seclu- 
sion from the world. Known far and near as a hard 
drinker, he is ever the same well-bred gentleman, be he 
drunk or sober. 

He and Tom R. once started -down the river to 
perform some work at the lower grove. Before setting 
out he gave Tom $20 to jiurchase provisions with. 
Aforesaid provisions are purchased according to his, 
and, may be, the captain's fancy: Whiskey, $17.50; 
hard tack, ^^jest to chaw on, you know," $1.50; pork, 
$1. Two bottles of whiskey Tom adds on his own 
account. The captain also laid in. a choice stock. 
Thus armed they set sail, burning with an unquenchable 
ardor for work. 

" There's old Bob ; 'twould be kinder mean to pass 
him without a smile," says Tom. 

^^ That's so ; let's land." 

They land ; they "smile"; the smiles broaden into 
a grin, and the proposition to call the entire male popula- 
tion of that section, and have " a reg'lar time," is hailed 
with universal acclamation. Times, that is ^'^ reg'lar 



204 CEUISIN-G ALON-Q SHORE. 

times," are mncli in vogue on Indian river, to the great 
absor})tion and waste of Time, the old father. It was 
ratlier np-hill work drinking tlie old captain drunk, but 
the Southern people are always earnest in a worthy 
cause, and he was finally deposited on a heap of oyster 
shells, ''dead gone." In the morning he said to Tom, 
*' I presume I was a little intoxicated last evening ?" 

" You were just that, and the dog-gondest, too, that 
I ever see ! " 

'' Well, it's- no use working with whiskey around ; 
pass us the bottle." 

'' It's all gone !" 

" Gone ! then we'd better be sailing for Sand Point, 
for I'm d — d if I'll w^ork without Avhiskey." 

This was related to me while I camped near the 
grove at night, and I give it as I tliink of it, trusting 
the reader will pardon the digression. 

Twenty-five years ago Captains 0. and D. found the 
grove while hunting. A judicious grafting of the wild 
trees procured, in a few years, bountiful returns. The 
crops have sometimes been enormous — seven hundred 
thousand in a single year. Over half a million of the 
largest, juiciest oranges in America ! Camping there 
that night, it was noon the next day before a fair down- 
river wind came along. AVhen it did come a storm came 
with it, and we departed, accompanied by the flash of 
liglitning and the heavy rolling of thunder. After 
rounding Black Point, our little craft drove straight on, 
heading with the river south-south-east, passing Sand 
Point, Joyner's, Jones' Point, and all the other points on 
the western shore, six miles of water intervening. We 
draw near the western shore, and sail along its higli pine- 
covered banks, driving before the furious wind with only 



CRUisiXG alo:n-g shore. hos- 

tile jib set. Night comes and finds us still sailing. The 
moon struggles feebly witli the clouds that threaten to 
conceal her, and reveals the captain still at the helm. 
The waves beat against his back, as he sits in grim 
silence, enduring their butletings with far more patience 
than my infrequent questions. It is late at night ere he 
comes to anchor in Elbow creek, and finds a slight shel- 
ter from the tempest. Thankful that, though wet, I 
could not get wetter, as the rain had ceased, I crawled 
under the sail, wrapped myself in my blanket, and fell 
asleep. The captain never slept aboard, so he waded 
ashore and *^ turned in'' on the Eeach. The usual sleep 
of the camper-out was granted me, long and unbroken, 
and I was only awakened in the morning by the fall of 
an oar. 

Elbow creek, with its fantastically worn coquina 
banks, is selected as the Indian river terminus of a canal 
to unite the St. Johns and this lagoon. Lake Washing- 
ton being the end of navigation on the St. Johns, six 
miles away. Though I don't take stock in the company, 
I. doubt not its utility, if navigation on the St. Johns will 
warrant its being kept open all the year. A sail of five 
miles across the river brought us to a jutting headland 
of coquina, supporting a scanty soil, covered with a rich 
growth of beautiful palms, tall century plants, and Sisal 
hemp. Two crescent-shaped bays, one facing north, the 
other south, curved inland, their shores a firm, snowy 
sand. Landing, I soon discovered a small grove of 
orange trees, being guided to them by their fragrant 
blossoms. Here I discovered the only evidence of civili- 
zation I had seen this side of the river, an object that 
once must have caused joy in the household, and sad- 
ness for its loss. K piano, covered with a few boards, its 



206 CRtTISIK-G ALOXG SHORE. 

legs shattorod, and its keys rattling in tlic wind, stood 
■where once had been a lionie. It was the old story of 
war's desolation and mined fortune tliat accounted for 
this lone memento of better days in a forest five miles 
from the nearest house. 

At this place is the southern end of Merritt's Ishmd, 
"vvhich parts Indian river, the portion east, between the 
island and the coast, being known as Banana river, and 
that west retaining its old name. Cape Canaveral is not 
far distant, where lives the best man on the river. Cap- 
tain Burnliam, keeper of the lighthouse there. From 
the lighthouse down I counted six wrecks, thrown upon 
the shore in a September gale. Making a fire from drift- 
wood, we soon had flapjacks and potatoes enough for our 
inner man. It was liere that I received a lesson in clean- 
liness I shall not soon forget. I had omitted to provide 
myself with a dish-cloth, and while the captain was 
cursing my heedlessness, I went off for some Spanish 
moss in lieu thereof. AVhat was my surprise, upon re- 
turning, to find the plates dry, and apparently clean. 

^^ Where did you find a cloth ?" 

" Oh, I took my handkerchief ! " 

Now, the 'kerchief was the captain's only article in 
that line ; a very dirty and greasy bandana, which, be- 
sides doing duty in a nasal way, was frequently applied 
to his watery optics, making its cleanliness a matter of 
doubt. When I remonstrated with him he declared I 
was ''the dirtiest cuss he ever see," and inquired sar- 
castically if I thought he was a fool. The cause of his 
wrath, I afterward ascertained, was not my objections, 
but that I had overlooked the fact of his Avashing it, 
which he had done in the drinking Avater bucket. The 
native ijoodness of his character was made manifest that 



CRUISTKG ALOXG SHORE. 207 

night, when, after keeping silent all clay, he extended 
his hand witli the remark "he guessed 'twas all right.'* 
About fifty-fiye miles from Harvey's is Turkey creek, 
where is the only banana plantation of any extent on the 
river. The huge plants, with their broad green leaves 
and curiously formed fruit and flowers, were beautiful 
and picturesque. They contrasted favorably with the 
stunted, frost-bitten j)lants I had seen on the St. Johns 
in December. This lagoon is ahead of all northern 
Florida in everything — fruit, climate and game. Oranges 
grow here in three years from the seed ; ahead of St. 
Johns by at least two 3'ears. There is almost no frost, 
and no disease peculiar to the region, while game of all 
descriptions line its shores. We spent two days and 
nights wind-bound at St. Sebastian creek, during which 
time we visited the coast near the place where, in 1710, 
a fleet of Spanish galleons were driven ashore and lost. 
We found no pistareens, which Romans tells us were 
washed up as late as 1770, but found j^lenty of deer and 
bear tracks, and pelican and ducks upon the river side 
without number. The sea grape and cocoa plum grow 
here in profusion. The former is a stout shrub, rapidly 
increasing in size as it nears the tropics, with a broad, 
heart-shaped, satin leaf. The fruit of tlie cocoa plum is 
about as large as the common plum, with ii white flesh 
and red skin. It has a pleasant taste. The ]ngh sand- 
ridge, separating river from ocean, is less th:.n three 
hundred yards across here, and thickly covered with 
scrub palmetto and gay colored flowers. Standing on 
its highest portion I can trace the sj^arkling length of 
Indian river and look upon the waters of the Atlantic 
at the same moment. For seventy-five miles one can 
hear the ocean surf as he sails upon the river. The high 



208 CRUISIN'a ALONG snoRE. 

bluffs near St. Sebastian have been selected as the site 
for a hotel, but are not well suited for such a purpose. 
Near here is Barker's Bluff, named after a man who lost 
his life there — killed by the Indians, at the same time 
my friend, Major Kussell, lost an arm. A few miles 
away is an island draped in white, its trees seemingly 
covered with snow, a circling flight of birds hovering 
over it, the water around dotted with hundreds of dusky 
objects, and the same dusky forms coming and going 
with no cessation in their flight. 

" That's Pelican Island," said the captain. As we 
approached, the dark objects grew more distinct, and 
assumed definite shapes. The island of about two acres 
was covered with mangroves, long since dead ; every 
tree loaded down with nests — great, bulky affairs, two 
feet ifbross and flat. Every tree and nest was completely 
covered with the limy excrement of the birds^ gi^'ii^g the 
island its snowy appeUrance at a distance. Each nest 
contained two nearly fledged young ones, all uniting in 
giving utterance to the most diabolical and soul-rending 
sounds, w^hicli, added to the cawing of fish, crows in 
search of eggs, and the screaming of eagles overhead, 
gave one as good an idea of pandemonium as mortal man 
can conceive. Tliough standing close together, the cap- 
tain and I had to shout our loudest to be heard. The 
ground was covered with young birds huddled together 
in fright. The eagles and vultures had committed great 
havoc, and from branches susj^ended and stretched upon 
the ground, w^re the decomposing carcasses of old and 
young, wliich, added to the decaying fish, filled the air 
wuth odors — not of Araby. Tlie old pelicans were flying 
overhead in clouds, occasionally alighting on some remote 



CBUISIKG ALOKG SHORE. 209 

tree to feed the young with fish, which they brought to 
them in their pouches. 

Two months later, in May, I found the young had 
flown, and every nest with a complement of large white 
eggs. There are two species of pelican on our Atlantic 
coast — the white and brown. This was the brown ; its 
plumage of mottled white and gray on the back, dark 
sides and breast, with a rich yelyety brown neck and 
white head, was not altogether homely. Their long bills, 
a foot in length, and immense pouches, capable of hold- 
ing a gallon, give them a very odd appearance. 

The approaches to the *^ Narrows" are guarded by 
two walls of living green, which, when seen at a distance, 
seem to be but a few paces apart, leaving but a narrow 
gateway. As we draw near, however, the distance 
increases, disclosing a passage nearly a mile in width. 
Seventy miles it is to the northern end of the lagoon, 
and above there is a varying width of from three to 
eight miles. Below the Narrows is a land of plenty. 

Here the oysters accumulate in such quantities that 
they form this narrow passage. A storm is observed 
gathering, and just as we enter the Mangrove Islands it 
bursts upon us. Before the north wind we scud with 
bare poles, and are obliged to exert all our caution 
to prevent being wrecked upon some of the many oyster 
reefs that obstruct the channel. 

It is ten miles through ; and through the gathering 
gloom we just discern a sheltering point, after long 
exposure to the gale. With the storm thundering after 
us, we silently endure the rain, hopiog that night will 
bring relief ; but no lull occurs, and we anchor behind a 
projecting reef and finally wade ashore. Hanging our 
blankets on the mangroves to windward, we finally start 



210 CRUISING ALONG SHORE. 

a fire witli the aid of lio^ht wood-splinters, and after 
Avarinincf some llai)iacks and tliorouofhlv steaminsf our- 
selves, roll ourselves in our blankets and sleep, witli 
sundry aAvakenings to rci)lenish the fire. 

Toward morning the rain ceased, but not till it had 
wet us through — yes, through, for the captain said he 
could feel the rain water '* slosh about" in his stomach. 
I know that, although I had carefully covered myself 
with my rubber blanket, when I awoke it was to find 
myself in a puddle four inches deep. Under the cir- 
cumstances, wasn't it natural that I should desire just a 
drop of whiskey ? I had a quart of the best, which I 
had intrusted to the captain's locker, and thought that 
now, if ever, was the time to use it. 

" Captain, in my youth, when very young, and con- 
sequently incompetent for such a performance, I signed 
the pledge. Remember, it was while quite young, and 
at a very tender age ; in fact, I think it hardly valid 
now, and binding. Then again, I signed off from any- 
thing that would intoxicate, and I'm ready to swear that 
nothing ever distilled from grain can intoxicate me now, 
there's so much water in me. I think I'll try a drop of 
that whiskey." 

'^The bottle is in the starn." 

Quickly I drew it forth ; slowly and sadly I returned 
it — 'twas empty. The ca2)tain evaded my gaze, mutter- 
ing the while : " 'Twas so confounded bad I didn't like 
to have it round, and so I drunk it up first night." 

A run of a dozen miles in the genial warmth of the 
sun restores our spirits — not the sj)iritus fnimoiti, how- 
ever — and we land at Fort Capron, an old military post, 
with a very sharp appetite for breakfast. A hedge of 
oleanders ten feet in height surrounds the plantation, 



CRUISIifG ALOXG SHORE. 211 

now gone to decay. The Cherokee rose, and the Spanish 
bayonet with its magnificent pjTamid of honey-scented 
bells, add their fragrance to that of the oleander. A 
walk tlirongh the deserted orange grove reveals many 
tropical wonders, such as the India rubber, satin-wood, 
guava, lime, lemon, and citron. Vestiges of pineapple 
plants are shown, which can be raised here successfully. 
At Fort Pierce, four miles south, is an excellent location 
for a hotel or boarding house. The situation is high 
and airy, securing immunity from those pests of the 
low land, the sand-flies. It is opj)osite to the main 
entrance to the Atlantic, where vessels of not over four 
feet draught can enter. Directly in front are vast oyster 
beds, and in December the turtle — the ^^ green turtle 
soup " kind — swarm in to feed and are caught. Deer, 
turkeys, quail, in fact all kinds of game ; fish, from 
saw-fish and sharks, to mullets and bass. 

And then the climate ! Earely, even in summer, 
does the thermometer indicate more than 85 degrees. 
A south-east breeze blows in summer all night long, 
making the nights cool and comfortable. It is the very 
paradise for the consumptive, the fountain of youth for 
him with pulmonary complaint of whatever kind. But 
two frosts for twenty years have occurred, and those not 
serious. This description of climate will answer for 
nearly the whole river, modified only by the slight dif- 
ference in latitude. The waters of the Gulf Stream lave 
the coast, tempering the wind in winter. One of the 
surgeons in the army stationed here during the Seminole 
war, after sixteen years' service, gave it as his opinion 
that this immediate country was the healthiest in the 
United States. Absolutely free from disease, 'tis said 
that the people are obliged to remove to the next county 



212 CRUISING ALONG SHORE. 

to die. When bcl tor means of transportation arc offered, 
the wliole river Avill lie the winter rendezvous of thou- 
sands of health-seekers and sportsmen, who now sliiver 
the winter through on the St. Johns. 

There is but one annoyance — insects. For real tall 
and lofty jumping and biting, the flea is unapproach- 
able ; but liis endeavors are put to shame by the mosqui- 
toes and sand-flies. The flea may be avoided, if hotel- 
haunted, and. hog-hannted sections are avoided. The 
mosquito may be kept at bay at night, his hunting 
season, by a good, "bar" ; but unless one is provided 
with an impregnable skin and a large stock of patience, 
he will be sure to break some of the commandments over 
the sand-flies. Snakes are not numerous eiiough to be 
dangerous, except in swamps, where the tourist need not 
go. This, in a word, is the good and bad of Indian 
river. 

Twenty miles below Fort Pierce is the St. Lucie 
river, coming in from the westward, forming a beautiful 
bay as it joins the waters of the lagoon. Three miles 
south of St. Lucie the broad sound suddenly ends, and 
after a chain of small lakes, as it were, the channel 
winds through densely-covered, mangrove islands, 
scarcely fifty yards in widtli. 

An adverse wind, and consequently current, kept us 
at the mouth of Jupiter Narrows two days. We passed 
the time shooting turkeys and alligators, and watching 
the graceful *'man-o'-war hawks," as they sailed over- 
head on wide-extended wings. The ocean beach pre- 
sented many attractions ; the beautiful sea beans and 
shells of exquisite tints, besides vast multitudes of birds. 
Sometimes we would find cocoanuts and fragments of 
foreign wood, thrown up by the resistless waters. The 



CRUISING ALOKG SHORE. 213 

third day of waiting we entered tlie !N"arrows, the most 
interesting portion of this vast lagoon. From a point 
a hundred miles north it stretches away south-east, now 
expanding, now contracting, till from a width of eight 
miles near its northern end it is here less than fifty feet. 
Each side of us the mangroves rise far overhead, some- 
times mingling their leaves in an arch of living green. 
Their gnarled roots strike down into the mud in every 
direction, supporting the trunk in mid-air many feet 
from the ground. What a number of roots ! Eobts 
from the trunk, with minor roots springing from them 
in every conceivable direction ; roots from the branches, 
and these again with smaller roots of their own. Here, 
a mile or so in, is a luxuriant hammock, where a man 
named Peck undertook to subjugate the rank growth, 
but the mosquitoes and sand-flies proved too many for 
him, and his bones rest peacefully, etc. Here is a small 
S23ring, and the water cask had better be filled. 

No sound breaks the solemn hush, except the tap of 
the setting-pole and the ripple of water at our bow, as 
we slowly forge ahead. 

A noticeable feature in the gre-en walls about us is the 
India rubber. AYhenever a clump of palms occurs we 
find this tree, enfolding in its trunk the stem of a palm. 
The rapidly growing walls gradually encircle the palm in 
an embrace of living wood, till finally it is seen only 
through the interstices in the rubber. As the tops of 
the respective trees intermingle — the feathery frond of 
the palm and waxy, green leaves of the rubber — a beau- 
tiful effect is produced. Delicate ferns grown in the 
mesh-work, and gorgeous epiphytes, with flaming spikes 
of blossom, attach themselves to the branches. Iron- 
wood, crabwood, and many other valuable woods are 



214 CRUISING ALONG SHORE. 

foniifl along ilic shore of Ilobe Sound, into which we 
emerge from the Narrows. Near its entrance we saw the 
carcass of a manatee, or sea-cow, over wliicli a coroner's 
jury of vultures were holding inquest. F]-om the south 
end of the Narrows, which are seven miles in length, it 
is twelve miles to the end of the river. Crossing 
** Conch Bar," we follow the stakes indicating the chan- 
nel, and soon see the dome-sha2)ed lantern, and afterward 
the symmetrical shaft of Jupiter Light. During all our 
voyage, our course has ever been to the south. Soon we 
strike the waters of the Lokohatchee, which coming from 
the west, unite with Indian river near the lighthouse, 
and run due east, through Jupiter Inlet to the ocean. 
Eounding the point, we are soon at anchor, and ascend 
the steep bank to a small house of coquina rock, where 
we are made welcome. 

This was at noon. At night I climbed, with the two 
keepers, to the top of the hollow shaft, and looked off 
from the circling platform upon a scene of absorbing 
interest. A glimpse of northern wildness and sterility, 
and southern luxuriance and fertility, the fragile flowers 
of the tropics blended with the hardy shrubs and trees of 
the north. The i3alm and pine, the oak and orange, man- 
grove and maple. ^' Semi-tropical " indicates Florida's 
status in climate and vegetation. Half northern, half 
southern — a kind of half-and-half character that extends 
to more than climate. We have here a land and Avater 
view of surpassing beauty. The broad Atlantic bounds 
the vision east, its shores extending in curving linos from 
north to south. Down from the north comes Indian 
river, curved in outline — a bay, a creek, fringed with 
palm, pine, and mangrove. From the west comes in 
the Lokohatchee, charming in i)arks of pine and green 



CKUISIN'G ALON"G SHORE. 215 

mangrove islands ; its windings reveal it in sheets of 
silver among the trees. A narrow creek leads from it 
southward toward Lake Worth. As I looked upon this 
scene I saw no sign of life, save at the cottage, one hun- 
dred and fifty feet below me. North, the nearest human 
habitation was forty miles away ; south, one hundred ; 
west, no one knows ; the swamps and forests there are 
peojiled only by red men. 

The sun's last rays had disappeared, leaving clouds 
of crimson and gold piled up behind the dark pine forest, 
as I entered the lantern, where the light was already 
glowing. I seated myself in the crystal dome, and 
watched the reflected colors as they came and went with 
each revolution of the lantern. As the lantern revolves, 
every prism catches the rays of light and rends them into 
their primary colors, paints the colors of the rainbow 
upon the polished roof, and throws them forward to be 
reproduced a thousand times in the crystal bars. As the 
strong light shone forth, I thought of the many eyes gaz- 
ing ujoon it other than those of the sailors for whom it 
was intended. The timid deer, the ferocious puma and 
wild cat, the bear from his "hammock" — for bears do 
have "hammocks" — of palms. No doubt the reflected 
light is visible to the Indians dwelling upon the prairie 
bordering that mysterious lake, Okeechobee. Toward 
midnight a little warbler fluttered against the glass, 
striving to enter. The keeper has often found them 
after storms. The large plates have been shattered by 
bh'ds, who were afterward found lifeless with mangled 
breasts. Many birds foreign to our country have flown 
against the glittering, though fatal glass. 

Once a year the supply-ship visits this place, in its 
annual tour from Maine to Florida. Other than this 



216 CRUISING ALONG SHORE. 

visit from Uncle Sam, the inhabitants of Jupiter have 
few visitors. A few stray waifs from the North drift 
down upon them, brighten them with their presence 
aAvhile, set their sails again, and disai:>pear in the gloom 
of the mangroves. Indian river, once visited, leaves a 
longing in the heart of the visitant never satisfied, till 
the sparkle of its waters again gladden his eye, and his 
tent is j)itclied upon its sunny sands. Certainly no other 
section of our country possesses so many natural charms, 
united with real blessings, so easily accessible. 

Fred Beverly. 



XXIII. 

SHOOTING AT SALT LAKE. 

NOMINALLY three miles in length by two in 
breadth, this little lake is reduced to half that area 
in the low stages of water, thus accounting for the land- 
ing of the steamer in a creek a mile or more away. A 
vast plain of waving reeds and salt grass surrounds the 
lake on three sides ; on the eastern, the pine woods come 
down to the shore, offering the only landing. Having 
boats of our own we succeeded in evading the extortion- 
ate charges of the lightermen, and pitched our tent in 
the pine barrens, a mile from the lake. 

The morning after our arrival I sailed out to taste 
the pleasures my observations the day previous had pre- 
pared me for. The breezy freshness of that morning 
comes to me now as I write, laden witli the odor of 
flowers and the songs of birds. The quail called from 
an old field in the hammock ; the woodpecker rattled 
joyously over the pines, and that odd bird, the fish-crow, 
"haw-hawed" from the broad limbed, moss-draped live- 
oaks. As I reached the shore, I caused a flutter in the vast 
swarm of the tringince feeding there, and provoked the 
" killdee," that pest of the shore, to send forth a warn- 
ing cry. Overhead, the graceful seamews winged their 
way, anon dipping into the water for food. The fish- 
hawk drew from the lake a mighty bass, but hushed his 
10 



218 SHOOTING AT SALT LAKE. 

cxultiint screams, and fled in sudden terrar before the 
piratical attack of the eagle. Ranged along the shore 
were the various representatives of the heron family, 
from the watchful great blue to the Avary and graceful 
snowy heron. Started up the busy multitude upon the 
shore, I let fly a single Inirrel at them, picking up near 
thirty birds, yellow-legs, killdee, and red-breasted snipe. 
Then (for I wasn't bloodthirsty at all, and cared more 
for variety than quantity), I deposited my birds in a 
place of safety, and cautiously waded through the long 
matted gi'ass, the abode of moccasin snakes, to a space 
swc})t clean by fire. Scarcely had my feet touched its 
l)()r(lcr, wlien my ear was delighted with the sound, wel- 
come to all sportsmen, " scaip, scaip," denoting tlie pres- 
ence of genuine snipe. From every side, before, behind, 
came that welcome "scaip,"as the birds arose at my 
approach, or at the report of my gun. "Wisps of them 
would launch into the air, whence after a few fantas- 
tic evolutions they would return to earth again. I fre- 
quently got double sliots, and might have loaded myself, 
but as there was no one near to share the sport, and future 
wants might need supply here, I drew off early, deposit- 
ing my booty with their cousins of the shore. This was 
sufficient for the small birds, and launching my boat 
and running out from the little creek, I made an on- 
slaugiit on a Hock of coots (for coots' breasts and drum- 
sticks are good, well boiled), and then skirted a broad 
bay, where were feeding large flocks of pin-tail ducks, 
teal, and scattered groups of black ducks. Without 
inflicting upon the reader a detailed account of the 
a])])roach, through blind ponds, and within shot of 
countless hundreds of busy plover and snipe, I will add 



SHOOTING AT SALT LAKE. 219 

that tliere shortly reposed a goodly pile of well-favored 
ducks in the bottom of my boat. 

It was now near noon, and while munching my frugal 
hmch, I cast about me for some larger game more worthy 
of my labor. Kunning my eye along the shore, I saw, 
wherever a sandy reach stood out from the reedy margin, 
dozens of long, black objects stretched motionless upon 
the snowy sand. These were alligators which the sun had 
called from the depths of the lake to enjoy his beams in 
the open air. Tliere were all sorts and sizes, from the lit- 
tle snapper, a foot long, to the old bull alligator of a dozen 
feet in length, patriarch of a large tribe. Softly pad- 
dling my boat up a crooked creek, I watched the ^' 'gators " 
as they slipped off the banks into the water, where they 
would remain an instant watching me, then disappear. 
Soon came my opportunity ; rounding a sharp curve, I dis- 
covered a nine-footer, fast asleep, with mouth wide open. 
The vulnerable parts of the alligator are the eye, ear, and 
the heart, reached by placing a shot behind the fore leg. 
This I well knew, but just as I sighted his ear, a snake 
slipped into the water, distracting my attention a trifle, 
and the bulk of the charge was placed too far behind. 
It seemed to be effectual, however, and running my boat 
alongside, I essayed to roll him in. As his paws were 
working convulsively, affording no hold, I stuck my 
bowie knife full into his eye to facilitate operations. 
This seemed to have an enlivening effect, for he at once 
commenced a series of gymnastic evolutions that would 
have struck terror to the heart of Dio Lewis himself. 
Finding that he was retreating toward the creek, carry- 
ing my eigli teen-inch bowie with him, I seized my gun and 
stretched him upon his back with quivering paws. Then 
rolling him into the boat, I soon had him at the land- 



220 SHOOTING AT SALT LAKE. 

ing. As the best time to skin an alligator is while he is 
warm, and some say kicking, I skinned him at once. 
Cutting a slit down the back of each paw, and running 
a continuous line from the under jaw to the tail, just 
below the bony mail, on each side, I removed the skin 
easily by pulling from the tail toward the head. 

Observing an alligator on my way back, seemingly 
two feet longer than the one secured, I determined to 
capture him. llowing cautiously along shore, I at length 
espied liini crawling under water toward a narrow 
though deep creek. Getting between him and the 
object he was aiming for, I stopped him, and he finally 
seemed convinced that the best thing he could do was to 
lie still. I fancied I could discern a sinister gleam in 
his eye, that boded evil in case we came in contact. 
Placing my gun across tlie thwarts, and pushing carefully 
toward him, I held myself in readiness for attack at any 
moment. But he seemed to fancy himself so secure with 
the slight covering of water over him that the boat 
almost grazed his side before I had sent the contents of 
one barrel of my gun into his ear. Contrary to my ex- 
pectations he lay motionless, and instead of shooting the 
boat out of reach of his tail, as I was prepared to do, I 
lay alongside, and passed over his head a noose of stout 
line i)reparatory to towing him ashore. No sooner did 
he feel the line tightening about his throat than he con- 
cluded to come to life again, and after a few preliminary 
kicks and flourishes, proceeded to roll over and over, 
much to my grief and discomfiture. With strange 
shortsightedness I had omitted to cast off the line from 
the bow of the boat, and now that the 'gator was wind- 
ing it about him with the rapidity of a patent windlass, 
I suddenly thought of it ; but it was too late. Bracing 



8H00TIKG AT SALT LAKE. 221 

myself against the rail of the boat, I held on till my 
arms seemed about to bid me good-by, and the sides of 
the boat cracked again and again. Then he stopped, 
but just as I had dropped the line and started for my 
gun, he commenced again. This time he untwisted 
what he had twisted before, and commenced twisting in 
another direction, and when he had drawn out the last 
available inch, and I was thinking sadly what a good 
boat this used to be, and whether my friends would find 
me before dark, he stopped again. In gratitude for this 
action on his part I ought to have cut the line and let 
him go ; but no, my blood was up, and I determined to 
conquer at all hazards. Carefully drawing the gun 
toward me, I opened a ragged hole in the top of his skull 
in such short metre that he hadn't time to tighten up on 
the rope. Then after resting and reloading, I attempted 
to roll him into the boat. This time he was as dead as 
it is possible for 'gator to be, I knew ; but when, just as 
I had him poised on the rail, he made a fearful lunge 
and came down in the boat where I had wanted him, I 
was astonished. I w^as so astonished that I immediately 
jumped out on the other side, w^here the water was leg- 
deep, in order to get a better view\ When I had looked 
at him to my satisfaction, I didn't get in. Oh, no. 
That boat was only built for one ; two crow^ded. Though 
his head seemed as inanimate as a log of wood, his tail 
seemed charged w^ith concentrated lightning. A little 
wriggle, and the thwarts would fly in all directions. 
A short, sharp rap and the boat seemed to crack from 
stem to stern. If a dead alligator acted thusly, how 
Avould one in the ^^ full vigor of early manhood" act? 
I began to fear I had ^^ missed my calling"; that 
alligator shooting was not my forte. The more I 



222 51IU0TIXQ AT SALT LAKE. 

thought it over, the stronger was my conviction. By 
rapid calcuUition, the boat would go to pieces in just 
eighty seconds. Then wliere, oh, wliere would I be ? 

It was half a mile to the landing, and deep creeks 
and bays intervening. My friends were all hunting 
further east. Seeing just then that he had stopped 
wriggling, I ventured to get into the boat. I have an 
impression that I didn't make much noise ; and I also 
have an impression that I made tliat half a mile in tol- 
erably quick- time, and the perspiration that streamed 
down my face wasn't altogether caused by the heat. 

Gathering my birds together, I returned to camp, to 
find my friends engaged in skinning a deer they had 
just shot, and planning an excursion to a neighboring 
lake for heron. Notwithstanding my weariness, after 
placing a pound or two of venison and slapjacks where 
they would benefit me most, I was read}^ and launched 
upon the lake just as the sun went down. Having a 
trolling spoon, I drew forth from their retreat several 
broad-tailed black bass, with moutlis like steel traps and 
possessed of the strength of young alligators. After an 
hour's rowing and wading, we burst through the cane- 
brake and emerged into a little lake, upon one side of 
which was a long, low, willow island, from which scores 
of herons silently flew away. Concealing ourselves, we 
waited. Soon they came ; by dozens and fifties the im- 
maculate and glossy plumaged birds approached. Then 
the firing commenced, and continued till each one was 
satisfied and ready to return. Emerging from tlie canes, 
and rowing across the lake, we returned to camp laden 
with birds nearly as large as ourselves. In the soft 
moonlight we looked strange and ghost-like, with our 
burdens of white. Leaving the preparation of the birds 



SHOOTING AT SALT LAKE. 



223 



till the morrow, we kicked together the embers, arranged 
afresh the light-wood knots, and soon had a delicious 
ai-uma of coffee and venison enveloping us. Then to our 
beds of pine boughs, to sleep as only tired hunters can. 
Such was a representative day at Salt Lake ; one of 
many with varied scenes and incidents. 

Feed Beverly. 



XXIV 

THE OKEECHOBEE EXPEDITION. 

'T'TT'E had what might be called a stormy voyag-e. 
VV The very night that saw the Yirginius in 
such peril, we sighted the light off Frying-pan Shoals — 
just caught a glimpse of it, only to be driven away far 
east of the Gulf Stream. Four times did we cross the 
Gulf Stream. For a week we lay to under double-reefed 
spanker and foresail, drifting with the waves. Dolphins 
and porpoises. Gulf weed, and Portuguese men-o'-war 
swam and drifted in the water near us, but they failed 
to excite the interest they ought, for the reason that the 
objects we sought on the shores of Florida were far 
away. The New Year brought a blessing, for upon 
that day we first descried the long, low line far in the 
distance that told us of the land we sought. The next 
day the palms appeared above the horizon, but it was 
sunset ere we were boarded by the pilots and were 
threading the tortuous windings of the channel, in tow 
of the little steamer belonging to the port. 

Mosquito Inlet, our destination, is in about hit. 29'', 
long. 81°, fifty-five miles south of St. Augustine, and one- 
third the way down the Florida coast. It is about a 
mile in width, with two channels, obstructed by sand- 
bars, having a depth of seven to nine feet. It is the out- 
watering of two large lagoons, the Mosquito North, or 



THE OKEECHOBEE EXPEDITIOIT. 225 

Halifax river, and the Mosquito Soutli, or Hillsboro' 
river. Thirty miles each extends, meeting in a common 
channel at the inlet. Close in is Massacre Bluff, with 
its tragical history of the murder of shipwrecked sailors 
by Indians, early in the Indian war. Two miles further 
is Mount Pleasant, a high shell bluff, upon which is the 
residence of Major Alden, a Massachusetts man, whose 
hospitality many have shared. A mile further is Lowd's 
Hotel, the only one here, and one of the three houses 
constituting the town of New Smyrna. This place is 
about thirty miles from the St. Johns, at Enterprise, the 
road to wdiich fully maintains the reputation of Florida 
roads generally. Though to a stranger the hotel at 
Kew Smyrna may present few attractions, being fronted 
by a muddy creek and backed by a dense forest, it is 
filled to overflowing every winter, the same boarders 
forming its quota each succeeding season. The mystery 
is partly explained when one has enjoyed its hospitali- 
ties. Probably the superb fishing of Mosquito Inlet has 
much to do toward maintaining its popularity as a 
winter resort. There is the usual variety of game found 
on the Florida coast. The narrow peninsulas, both 
north and south of the inlet, are well stocked with deer 
and bear, and many panthers and wild- cats find refuge 
there. The woods back of the hotel, between 'New 
Sm3Tna and Enteri^rise, are tolerably well filled with 
deer, though it is said the panthers have driven away 
the turkeys. At the inlet are large flocks of curlew, 
bay snipe, '^peep," shearwaters and plover, affording 
excellent sport to the juvenile gunners at the hotel. 
But by far the best section for procuring large game u 
the immense Turnbull swamp, near the head of Indian 
river, abounding in deer, turkeys, panther, and bear. 
10* 



2'iC> THE OKKKCJIOIiEE EXPEDITION. 

Any old field will furnish its bevy of quail. Besides the 
means of communication with Jacksonville, via St. 
Jolins, costing about fifteen dollars, there is a small 
schooner which makes the trip as often as the wind will 
permit ; fare five dollars. The only business of New 
Smyrna is in live-oak, which, in the hands of one firm, 
employs many schooners the winter through. On both 
lagoons are large groves of delicious oranges, noted 
for tlieir size and flavor. The guava, pomegranate, fig, 
and banana will flourish here, and have been success- 
fully grown. 

Tliere are several good guides here, and they can be 
hired at the usual rates by addressing, at New^ Smyrna, 
Volusia county, M. Lewis, Dr. Fox, or Frank Grains. 
The best location for building or camping is at Mount 
Pleasant, where the channel runs close by the wharf, 
with sixteen feet of water. We camped there upon its 
shelly shore, and passed two pleasant weeks. The 
weather was unusually cold, even closing the jaws, if 
they have jaws, of the blood-thirsty mosquito for a time, 
and causing tliat omnipresent oldest inhabitant to declare 
that no such liad occurred before since the great frost of 
'35. Yet we would have days delicious in tlieir dreamy 
warmth, when the air of a morning would be full of the 
music of robin and red-bird. ^*AVe," comprehends my- 
self and a young man, a friend, of my own age, who was 
to accompany me upon my boat excursions, and remain 
at camp while I was absent upon my explorations inland. 
We then had a tent that had done service on the St. 
Johns, which I had brought more for the good it had 
done that from any love I bore it. It was called the 
" lawn tent," and resembled the tents figured as belong- 
ing to the children of Israel. It was well adapted to the 



THE OKEECHOBEE EXPEDITION. 227 

covering of a large surface, but in a ^^ norther" we had 
to get out guys in every direction, and tlicn stand out- 
side and hang on, while the winds howled and floods 
descended. We had two boats. I had named the larger 
the Forest and Stream, though I quaked inwardly 
whenever I happened to think, "What if the proprietors 
of that paper should see her ? I had her built to carry 
a heavy load in shallow Avater, and told her builder to 
sacrifice everything else to strength and lightness — and 
he did. She was twenty-one feet long by seven feet beam 
amidships, flat bottom, centre-board, rigged with two 
small sails. I had always stood in awe of her, and was 
much relieved when after she had lain idle nearly two 
weeks, a rash sailor asked me if he could sail her, and 
when he came back and said she worked splendidly, I 
could have embraced him. When the boat was loaded 
with our freight I saw the wisdom of my instructions to 
the builder, for she was full to overflowing. And so, 
one i^leasant day we started down the Hillsboro', laden 
almost to the water's edge. We were fortunate in get- 
ting a tow down the river for nearly twenty miles. 

The Hillsboro', for twenty miles, is filled with man- 
grove and marshy islands, making many exceedingly tor- 
tuous channels difficult to follow. Shipyard Reach, 
fifteen miles south of Smyrna, is a noted place for ducks ; 
but the best of all grounds is a little below on the west 
channel, where they come to a little pool to drink all day 
long. Parties have been here and shot a hundred to the 
man in half a day's shooting. Bissett's orange mound 
is a favorite place ; here the wild oranges glow and 
gleam through the dark foliage, covering a shell mound, 
at whose base is a drinking pool where the ducks flock 
bv scores. October and November are the best months, 



228 THE OKEECHOBEE EXPEDITION. 

and ngain in March, the interim being spent by the 
greater part of the mass of ducks wintering in Florida 
further south. 

From New Smyrna south occur a great many shell 
and earth mounds of ancient origin, several of which I 
have exi)]orcd, and the results of which explorations I 
shall publish in a future letter. 

The Mosquito lagoon commences at the Devil's 
Elbow, a channel of the Hillsboro' where there are nine 
crooks in half a mile. AVe passed safely through the 
Devil's Elbow, and arrived at the head-quarters of the 
Swifts, proprietors of the live-oak interest here. From 
Captain Swift and his employees we have received the 
kindest attention. Mosquito lagoon is here two miles in 
breadth and ten miles to the canal connecting this lagoon 
system with Indian river. There are several orange 
groves on this lagoon, both wild and cultivated. We 
entered the canal about noon one day, passing the first 
stake half a mile north, and standing^away south-east till 
opposite the canal. The eastern end is invisible till di- 
rectly at its mouth, owing to bushes and sand-bars. The 
canal is about half a mile long and twelve feet wide. 
Connecting the Indian river lagoon with the Mosquito, 
it forms with them an inside route of water travel over 
one hundred and eighty miles in length. The water was 
at the highest when we entered, yet we barely passed 
through, drawing but a foot. Fallen coquina has nar- 
rowed the passage to seven feet in some places. The 
cocjuina is curiously hollowed by the water, leaving over- 
hanging arches supported by pillars fantastically wrought. 
The kingfisher has driven liis sliafts into the rock, and 
then occupied them. A large tree, with table-shaped 
top, stands near the eastern end, and can be seen a 



THE OKEECHOBEE EXPEDITION. 22G 

long way, forming a conspicuous land-mark. There is 
good camping ground near here, and an abundance of 
fish and ducks close by. Deer and bear range the ham- 
mocks north. We camped that night at Andrew Jack- 
son's. Andrew has the neatest little orange grove on 
the river. Close by, two miles, is the famous Dummitt 
orange grove, so often described. Captain Dummitt, 
the original owner of this grove, died a year ago. He was 
an old resident, and highly respected. The grove is now 
owned by his three daughters and two others. This 
year's crop is estimated at 125,000, fully as many having 
been blown off in a tremendous gale last autumn. Two 
smaller groves near here have, respectively, four and 
eight thousand. It is about sixteen miles from the canal 
to the head of the river, and ten miles to Sand Point, 
upon the west bank of the river. The buildings of 
Aurantia Grove, so much advertised, can be seen about 
seven miles up the river. I had no time to visit it, 
and so cannot speak of its merits from observation. 
The land is said to be good, worth $1.25 per acre. 
Indian river needs for its proper development a railroad 
to Lake Harney, the head of navigation on the St. Johns, 
or a new canal to Mosquito lagoon, with light-draught 
steamers plpng between Jacksonville and the lagoon. 
The railroad is the more feasible route, perfectly practi- 
cable, and would probably pay. The distance to be trav- 
ersed is said to be but thirteen miles. A small steamer 
is needed upon the river, and three good hotels — one 
at the head of the river or lagoon, one midway, and 
one near the southern end. Then this delightful climate 
might be enjoyed by the thousands now kept away by 
the difficulties attending transportation and lack of 



S.IO TnE OKEECHOBEE EXPEDITION. 

accommodations. The present route, via Salt Lake, ia 
very tedious, and uncomfortably long. 

We crossed the river one night after waiting two days 
for a wind. The water was all aglow with phospho- 
rescent light. Every dash of our little boat raised a 
silver shower, and thousands of fish darted hither and 
thither, leaving tortuous trails of fire, like those Fourth 
of July serpents of our boyhood. Rafts of ducks 
sprang up with noise like thunder, invisible but for the 
fiery shower they raised u]3on leaving the water. It was 
midnight before we reached Harvey's, and anchored. It 
is six miles across to Salt Lake. There is a settlement a 
mile from the river, where also is a small boarding house. 
There is but one building at the landing, a store. Here, 
for the first time, the visitor from the North sees the 
palmetto, in the long columnar rows, so characteristic 
of the Indian river. Two days we passed here and at 
Titusville, two miles below, awaiting a fair wind. The 
hotel at the latter place is the only one on the river, and 
is said to be well kept ; $3 per day is charged for tran- 
sient boarders. Board at the settlement is SL50 per day. 
This is the northernmost of the four post-offices on the 
river. A mail is supposed to arrive and depart once a 
week, but it really arrives and leaves with the wind. 
Very fine specimens of native woods may be procured 
here, such as the crabwood, royal palm, mangrove, pal- 
metto, and iron w'ood, made into canes, etc. Titusville 
owes all of its present jirosperity to the indefatigable en- 
ergy of its proprietor. Colonel H. T. Titus. This place 
is only noteworthy as a point of the arrival and de]iar- 
ture for more interesting points on the rivei-. For ducks 
one must go across the river to Dummitt's. ten miles, 
or to Banana creek, still further. For deer, to Mer- 



THE OKEECHOBEE EXPEDrno;N". 231 

ritt's Island, or to the prairies bordering Salt or South 
lakes. Boatmen and guides can be hired to any point 
on the lagoon and interior. James Stewart, captain 
of the Blonde, is perfectly trnstworthy and reliable. 
Jim Rnssell is thoroughly posted upon the game and 
fish of Indian river, and Avill be found of great value 
to any party contemplating a winter's camp here. Ad- 
dress them at Sandy Point, which is the old name for 
Titusville. 

I visited some old acquaintances here, and walked 
over to the store of a man named Joyners. I was much 
surprised to find him apparently overjoyed to meet me, 
the more so as we had met but once. My heart 
warmed as he poured forth congratulation and welcome, 
and I thought here was one true friend, if he did have a 
suspicious squint in one eye and never once looked me 
square in the face. What was my disgust to find, upon 
returning to the boat, that he had despatched a ^^ jus- 
tice " to arrest me for an alleged violation of the license 
law, in giving a man, whom I had hired, an old coat. 
A friend told the justice he thought he'd better not 
trouble me, and the justice departed, saying he "' thought 
so too." We left Titusville at daybreak one morning. 
The wind gradually increased, till at noon it was blowing 
half a gale, and we were very glad to seek shelter behind 
Oleander Point, about twenty-five miles from Sand 
Point. A gale is the specialty in which Indian river 
excels ; either a gale or a calm. But then this is a 
stormy winter, though it is hard to realize.it with the 
ciiormometer at shirt-sleeve temperature. Oleander Point 
is formed of disintegrated shells, white as snow, the 
beach ending in a crescent-shaped bar. South of this 
beach is a coquina formation, extending for miles, where 



232 THE OKEECHOBEE EXPEDITION. 

the rocks arc worn into every shape imaginable. A Mr. 
Hardee lives here, wliose grove of tliree-year-old trees is 
the linest I have seen. He has splendid oranges, from 
trees only three years from the bud. His crop brought 
a dollar per hundred more in Savannah than the St. 
Johns oranges. 

AVe slept upon the beach that night, beneath a lean- 
to tent whicli my friend, who is an old camper-out, had 
put up between two palmettoes. The clieerful blaze in 
front made it far prefera])lc to our close quarters aboard 
tiie boat. The next afternoon, the wind abating, we set 
sail, and at niglit, the wind increasing, made a camp on 
the shores of Horse creek. Tliis is a high coquina bluff 
of pine land, a fine place for camp or residence. Nearly 
opposite is the southern end of Merritt's Island, whose 
high, pine-covered sliores have been in sight for the last 
twenty-five miles. Just south of here, three miles, is 
Elbow creek, which was to be the terminus of a canal to 
connect Indian river with Lake Washington, on the St. 
Johns. The sclieme is now '^ busted," and Indian river 
will have to seek connection with the outside world else- 
where. At Turkey creek, fifteen miles south, is a fine 
orange and banana grove, where huge bunches of the 
latter fruit can be purchased at $1 per liundred. St. 
Sebastian is twelve miles from Turkey creek. It is a 
beautiful slieet of water, and the camper-out will find 
here secure shelter during gales. From Horse creek we 
were assisted by tluit veteran guide and boatman, Jim 
Russell. Wlmt Jim don't know about Indian river is not 
worth knowing. He has spent twenty years here, and 
can tell to a certainty just where and when the rarest 
birds are to be found, where to go for deer, bear, or 
panther. Jim, then, took us in charge, and kept us 



THE OKEECHOBEE EXPEDITIOiT. 233 

through tlie Narrows, with a dim vision of Pelican 
Island north of the entrance ; by Indian Eiver Inlet, old 
Fort Capron, and anchored us at two o'clock one morn- 
ing just as the moon sank out of sight, at Fort Pierce. 
Here we made our final camp, one hundred and thirty 
miles south of our starting point at New Smyrna. 

Fort Pierce is the name given to this place during 
the Indian war, when there was a military station here. 
Here it was, according to history, that the famous chief- 
tain. Wild Cat, Coacoochee, was' captured and sent west. 
The old parade ground, made over thirty years ago, is 
still in good condition, south of the present site of Fort 
Pierce, or *^ St. Lucie." The best turtling and oyster 
grounds are here, and splendid fishing at the inlet, three 
miles east. There is a party of gentlemen camped just 
north of here. They are enthusiastic sportsmen, and have 
been fishing Jupiter Inlet and Indian River Inlet loith 
files. Their success was wonderful. They tell me that 
they caught crevalle, bone-fish, and blue-fish ; the bone- 
fish and crevalle making hard fight and splendid sport. 

I have photographed the most noteworthy and pictur- 
esque features of Indian river and Mosquito lagoon, 
and the negatives are carefully preserved for future 
manipulation. Within the week that has clasped since 
my arrival, I have thoroughly explored the country 
between the river and the cyi^ress bordering Lake 
Okeechobee, walking and riding one hundred miles in 
four days, over, or rather through, a submerged tract of 
country, visiting my old friends the Indians, and 
discovering new facts. In closing, I will recapitulate the 
different camping grounds and haunts of game, promis- 
ing a better list in some future number. 

For fish, go to Ne^y Smyrna, Indian River Inlet, or 



X';U THE OKEECHOBEE EXPEDITION. 

Jupiter. Fur duck, Mosquito lagoou and Ilillshoro', at 
the places already mentioned ; the marshes between Black 
Point and the canal ; at Dummitt's, Pelican Island, near 
the Narrows, and 8t. Lucie Sound. Ten-mile creek, ten 
miles back of Fort Pierce, also abounds in teal and wood 
duck. For deer and bear, TurnbuU's Hammock, near 
New Smyrna ; Merritt's Island, and the beach ridge 
three miles from the southern end ; the Narrows ; St. 
John's Prairie, five miles w^est of Capron, and beyond. 
For turkey, St. John's Prairie and about St. Lucie 
Sound. There are good camping sites at Indian River 
canal, Jones' Point, Addison Point, Horse creek, Turkey 
creek, Merritt's Island, south end, St. Sebastian, Bar- 
ker's Bluff, Fort Capron, Fort Pierce, and at various 
points along St. Lucie Sound. Water may be procured 
almost anywhere by digging a shallow pit in the sand. 
For other information upon Indian river I refer the 
reader to my article previously written. A party of 
four could enjoy the pleasures of sporting here to best 
advantage. Let them come as I have, with everything 
necessary for the winter, pre^^ared to " rough it," if need 
be, and my word for it they will depart with a desire to 
come again. A friend of mine pur2)oses erecting a com- 
modious hotel near St. Lucie, where everything needful 
to the jierfect enjoyment of this region of game and 
health will be at command. The guides to Indian river 
are few, but I can recommend James Stewart, Charles 
Stewart, Juim Houston, Rufus Stewart, and Burton 
Williams. 

It is a fact beyond doubt that the whooping crane 
(Grus Americanus) is a resident of Florida, There has 
been seen for many years, upon Alligator Flats, about 
twenty miles from Fort Capron, Indian river, a large 



THE OKEECHOBEE EXPEDITION. 235 

white bird^ "as tall as a man," which the native Flori- 
dans called a " stork." Last year the young of this bird 
was taken from a nest and brought to Fort Capron, 
wliere it was kept till over six months old. The plu- 
mage of this bird was white from the first. It was a 
whooping crane, if the description of its possessors was 
correct, as it agreed exactly in specific characteristics 
with the description of the whooping crane.. For many 
years these birds haye roamed over the Alligator Flats, 
and about the prairies of the headwaters of the St. 
Johns. Their large size and loud cry have always made 
them conspicuous, and the "cow^ hunters " of the back- 
woods, not knowing any other bird so large, have given 
them the name of " stork." The sand-hill crane is very 
plentiful here, and there is no cause for the belief that 
the two species are confounded. The great white heron, 
the {Audubonia occidentaUs) , is the only other bird 
approaching the whooping crane in size, and likely to be 
mistaken by ignorant jDeople for it, and the supposition 
that it may be this species is precluded by the habits and 
liaMtat of that bird. We think this the first recorded 
instance of the .discovery of this species in Florida, 
though we may be mistaken. - 

The Everglade kite {Rostrhamus sociahilis) has been 
shot upon the St. Johns prairies by your correspondent, 
and he believes that he w411 find the eggs of that bird 
this season. The specimens procured were in the adult 
and young plumage. 

x\uthentic information of the discovery of the eggs 
of the paroquet [Coyiurus CaroUnensis) , has been ob- 
tained, and it is confidently expected that they will be 
secured the coming season. 

Indian river in April is as beautiful, its skies as 



*^36 THE OKEECllOIJEE EXPEDITION. 

Borenc, and its waters as untroubled as in January ; but 
Indian river in April is not the river it was in January, 
for all that. Its visitors from the North, the Yankees, 
have departed — and its visitors from the South, the 
insects, have arrived. The temperature in April does, 
not vary much from that of March ; the mornings are 
deliciously cool, and the afternoons — well, they are 
warm. Sixty-five in the morning at sunrise ; ninety at 
noon ; a breeze from the south all day, and a gale from 
the west all night. 

When I had returned to St. Lucie from Okeechobee, 
my friend at head-quarters wanted to leave ; and it was 
only to allow me a flying trip to the Seminole town that 
he would remain. The reasons he urged for departing 
were "insects." Fleas and mosquitoes might have their 
uses, might be a blesssing to mankind, but too many 
fleas and a superabundance of mosquitoes were worse 
than none at all ; and so long as that grind-stone was 
left out of doors for them to sharpen their bills on, so 
long was life a burden to him. And so we sailed away 
from St. Lucie. A few miles from St. Lucie is Indian 
River Inlet, where the fishing is superb and the mos- 
quitoes abundant. We went over to the inlet one day, 
with my old guide Jim to assist us. The memory of 
that day's sport will not soon fade away — bass, sheeps- 
head, crevalle — all bit well, and fully sustained the repu- 
tation accorded this inlet as the best fishing ground on 
the coast. Jim had been hunting in the scrub along the 
sand ridge, and returned to the boat as I hauled in my 
last fish, bloody and torn. There was blood on his face, 
blood on his hands, hair and rifle. His shirt and pants 
were torn and likewise bloody. In reply to my questions 
he remarked in a careless way that he had run a-foul of 



THE OKEECHOBEE EXPEDITION. 237 

a catamount, and that "the beast had showed fight." 
When I requested him to bring along his catamount, he 
said it was out there in the sand, and that if I wanted it 
I might get it. Though I had doubts of the existence 
of said catamount, I went as directed, and did actually 
find one, a beautiful creature, about four feet in length, 
curiously spotted and striped, and with tufted ears. 
Jim had discovered four of them, had wounded one and 
then captured him. It was Just here that I was camped 
one night two years ago. Jim was with me, and per- 
formed a feat that many men would shrink from. 

The captain of a little schooner had got his anchor 
caught beneath a sunken mangrove and was going to cut 
his cable and leave it, when Jim volunteered to dive for 
and get it up. The water was alive with sharks — this 
place is noted for them — and the anchor was twenty feet 
under water ; but Jim, after giving me instructions in 
case he was attacked, dived repeatedly, with the sharks 
swarming about our little boat, and a rapid current 
running, till he had accomplished his purpose. Oppo- 
site the inlet, two miles, is the residence of Judge Paine, 
where board and lodging can be obtained, I presume, as 
the Judge has a snug little house, with two rooms 
and beds. He also has a noble pack of hounds, which 
do duty at the gate. They are very affectionate, these 
hounds are, and one of them formed an almost insepara- 
ble attachment for the calf of my leg one day as I went 
there for my mail. 

The hunting here is not so good as the fishing, 
though deer may be obtained in the scrub and pine 
woods, and quail at the old Eussell plantation. Fire 
hunting in the mode usually adopted for shooting deer 
and other animals. That is, fire hunting was the 



238 THE OKEECHOBEE EXPEDITION-. 

mctliod. The principal cliarm of fire hunting lies in 
the uncertainty attending it, as to what you may kill. 
A man goes out, horseback or a-foot, with a pole over 
his shoulder, hished to the end of which is an old frying- 
pan, in which is a fire of light-wood. The blaze throws 
a lane of light ahead of him, leaving him in darkness. 
The eye of a deer reflects that light, so that all the 
bearer of the frying-pan has to do is to ^' blaze away" at 
the eye. There is a deal of sport in this style of hunt- 
ing. I remember a night's experience at South Lake, 
where I followed my guide about all night looking for 
eyes. We didn't see any eyes, but we had glorious sport. 
My part of it was to carry a bag of pine knots, and when 
my guide lowered the pan to replenish the fire with a 
knot. 'Twas fine sport, but grew to be a trifle monot- 
onous toward morning. As I said before, in the uncer- 
tainty of fire hunting lies its chief attraction. Other 
eyes than deer's will reflect the light, and the bearer of 
the pan — the messenger of light we may call him — 
doesn't know just what particular eye he may '^ shine" 
at any particular moment. It may be the eye of an ox, 
or a bear, or a panther. In case it is the latter, the 
usual way — if the " shiner" is convinced the sltinee is a 
panther — is to deposit the rifle and pan on the ground 
and climb a tree. Fire hunting, then, has its votaries all 
along the river. There is one gentleman near Fort 
Oapron always successful. He never goes out without 
returning with some trophy of his skill. A few nights 
before I left lie bagged a fine mare and colt, and was 
convinced that if he'd kept on he'd have killed a deer. 

The inlet is the place where " B. Hackle " and his 
friends — thorough sportsmen, all of them — had their 
finest sport, here and at Jupiter. The Narrows is as 



THE OKEECHOBEE EXPEDITION". 239 

good a place for deer as any on the river. As I was 
sailing through them one moonlight night, I was 
awakened by my boatman, and looking up, discovered a 
deer swimming across close to the boat. Kevolver, rifle, 
everything had been packed away, and we lost him. 
Ivight here in the Narrows, one of my acquaintances dis- 
covered a bear swimming, and undertook his capture. 
As he had nothing but a hatchet, and a heavy breeze 
was blowing, he was forced to relinquish the bear after 
laying its head open, and Bruin had nearly upset the 
boat by getting his paws on the rail. 

At Elbow creek, and across the river on the eastern 
shore, is the finest picturesque portion of the river. The 
little bay, formed as the creek reaches Indian river, is 
almost shut in by high coquina rocks. The shores are 
sandy, with high bluffs behind them. The water-worn 
coquina rock here is the most attractive on the river. 
It was here that the famous canal, to connect the St. 
Johns with Indian river, was to terminate. It was to be 
about seven miles in length. A company was formed, a 
dredge-boat set to work at Lake Washington, lands pur- 
chased, a town laid out on paper, and now the machin- 
ery of the boat is being transported to Sand Point for 
use in a saw-mill, and '*Eau Gallic " has just as many 
inhabitants as it had before the bubble was blown. No 
doubt can exist as to the suitability of the locality for a 
town, could one be started ; for the high pine land 
slopes gradually to the river, the climate is delightful, 
and annoying insects comparatively few. 

Mr. Houston, the resident at Elbow creek, is an old 
Indian fighter, having served through the seven years of 
the first war. His reminiscences were interesting, espe- 
cially to me, as he had fought Indians I had met at the 



240 THE OKEECHOBEE EXPEDITION". 

Seminole town and while hunting, and fought at locali- 
ties I had recently visited. A wedged-shaped coquina 
rock terminates Merritt's Island, two miles east of Elbow 
creek. The rocky shores here are worn into innumer- 
able caverns, their roofs supported by water-wrought 
pillars and groined arches. The island comes down to 
this point, ever narrowing, till it terminates a mile north 
of a palm-croAvned point upon the eastern shore. A 
deep bay is formed, crescent shaped, covered with dainty 
shells. Bordering this bay is a high shell bluff, covered 
with wild orange trees. Back of this bluff is an ancient 
earth mound, from which leads an elevated road- way, 
sixty feet in width, to the sea-beach a mile away. 

Now, this place, in my belief, has a share in the 
tragical history attending the early settlement of Florida 
by the Spaniards. When Ribaut was wrecked on this 
coast, and fell into the hands of Menendez in 1565, a part 
of his force, some 200, escaped down the coast. Soon 
intelligence came to the Spaniards that the French were 
fortifying themselves and building a vessel south of 
Cape Canaveral. A force was despatched, which cap- 
tured the greater part of the French troops, burned their 
vessel and destroyed their fort. The Spaniards then 
built another fort, which they called St. Lucie, and 
garrisoned it. From many proofs, I adduce the opinion 
that this is the site — this ])luff or earth mound — of that 
Spanish fort. The road, from sea-beach to river, straight 
and wide, was probal^ly made by the builders of the 
mound many years before the Spanish conquest, but it 
doubtless was in condition then to offer many advantages, 
and not, as now, overgrown with scrub and palmetto. I 
am not aware that the fact of the existence of this old 
road has ever been mentioned before — at least in this 



THE OKEECHOBEE EXPEDITIOIT. 241 

connection — but, from a careful examination of the 
ground and a comparison of existing proofs with histo- 
rical description, I am convinced that I am correct. 
Mr. Houston found, some jeavs ago, a bolt, eyidently a 
large coupling-bolt, and a piece of iron resembling the 
trunnion of a cannon. I am convinced that a series of 
excavations would reveal further proofs of my views. 
Upon the south end of Merritt's Island, west of the shell 
bluff just mentioned, lives the Crusoe of the river. He 
has lived here some three or four years, cultivating the 
soil and clearing the scant hammock, till he has several 
acres in a high state of cultivation, with abundant crops 
of squashes and prickly pear. Within a year or so 
this Crusoe has purchased several goats, and lives there 
alone with them and his cat. I went over one day to 
pay him a visit, but he was away. His shanty and goats 
were still there, though, and I determined to have a 
picture of them. This shanty was about twenty feet long, 
five feet high in the middle, and about six feet wide at 
the base. It was made by covering a " pitch roof " with 
palmetto leaves, and was open at either end. Two 
boards formed one side and end of the bed he slept in, 
and the side of the shanty the other side. There was 
just room enough to crawl in, so filled up was it with 
old rope, boards, etc. It looked so snake-suggestive that 
none of us entered. There was an old broken-legged 
table, a crippled chair, a grind-stone, and a smudge-pot 
outside. The owner, we afterward learned, was camp- 
ing out to get rid of the fleas. There are many incon- 
veniences attending photographing in Florida, and I 
have had so many amusing and provoking incidents that 
I shall some time v/rite a chapter of them. I set ni} 
companions to collecting and herding the goats, abou 
11 



242 THE OKEECHOBEE EXPEDITIOIT. 

fifteen, near the slianty, while I set my camera and 
pitclicd my developing tent. AVhen all was ready, I 
looked for my goats and saw them not. They soon ap- 
peared, however, in hot pursuit of my boatman Dan, 
who just escaped old Billy by climbing the fence. Wc 
soon got them in position near the shanty, with the aid 
of my friend and the two boatmen, and retired to my 
tent to prepare the negative plate. Upon emerging, I 
discovered that the leader of the herd had amused him- 
self chasing my friend about the place — causing him to 
sit down in a bed of prickly pear, which hurt his feelings 
very much — and otherwise misbehaving himself. After 
much trouble we got them in order, and I opened the 
slide and congratulated myself upon getting a good 
picture. I hardly counted "two" before a huge old 
goat, with wide-spread horns, spied my camera and 
started on a tour of inspection. If he had started lei- 
surely I shouldn't have cared, but he came in a hurry, 
as though he saw something in my direction he desired, 
and so I concluded to postpone the taking of that picture, 
shouldered my camera and travelled among the cacti in a 
way that brought tears to my eyes and tears to the eyes 
of my friends on the fence. I never did love goats ; and 
if that goat had seemed at all open to conviction I should 
have stopped and told him what I thought of goats in 
general, and him in particular. But I didn't stop, but 
kept right on, leaped the bank and gained the boat, just 
as he struck it with his horns. Then he went back and 
stood peacefully chewing his cud. And I think he is 
still there, for I didn't go back to alarm him. 

As most of Florida visitors are aware. Sand Point 
is the principal place on the river, or lagoon, and about 
the only point the visitor sees — he is so tired and worn 



THE OKEECHOBEE EXPEDITION". 243 

by the ride there tliat he goes no further. I don't know 
tliat the people of this section are more avaricious than 
in any other — indeed, I have always found the residents 
generous and hospitable — but the temjjtation to bleed a 
man with money is irresistible where money is so scarce. 
Along the St. Johns, at the hotels, it is worse than on 
Indian river. It is just as a ^^ cracker " expressed it one 
day at St. Lucie. He came to my friend, the doctor, 
with a bottle in his hand containing some unhappy bugs 
he had captured. Says he : 

*' Doctor, I reck'n I've gut a curostv fer yer." 

" Ah ! " 

'* Yis ; when you uns was done gone inter Okeecho- 
bee, I cought these yer animils fer yer. Ye see, I was a 
cuttin' down a cabbage pulmeteer and found these yer 
into the middle on't ; and as I never seed any like 'em I 
jest put 'em in a bottle, and hev been a feedin' 'em nigh 
on two weeks. I s'j^ose you want 'em, don't yez ? " 

" Well, yes, I'll take them ; how much for them ? " . 

The bugs were worthless, but the doctor always made 
a point of taking whatever was brought, as sometimes he 
secured something of value. 

" Wall, I don't know ; I reck'n about Uvo dollars a 
piece ! " 

" Do you think that enough, Mr. T. ? " 

" AVall, they'se been a heap uv trouble to me, an' Fve 
neglected my grubbin' to feed them thar critters, an' I 
railly suppose they's worth considerable more, but I 
didn't know hoiu much you Yanhees would sta7id!^' 

That is the key note rung by the hotel keepers in 
Florida, ^' how much you Yankees can stand without 
collapsing." 

At Smyrna I met Dr. Fox, the guide to the Savan* 



244 THE OKEECHOBEE EXPEDITI0:N". 

nail party that souglit Lake Okeechobee. As has been 
stated, th?y were obliged to return after reaching Lake 
Kissimmee, owing to the illness of one of their number. 
They found an abundance of game in the islands of 
Lakes Kissimmee and Cyjoress, and the woods bordering 
the river. From the nature of the country bordering 
the upper Kissimmee, I knew that there would be an 
abundance of game, such as quail, turkeys, and deer, 
there being more " hammocks " and less real swamps 
than upon the lower Kissimmee. If I include the vari- 
ous birds and animals generally called game by many 
gunners, then the Kissimmee is well stocked. At the 
ford were hundreds of white ibis and yellow-legs and 
curlew, while the settlers vouched for several flocks of 
turkeys in the ^'hammocks." Deer were comparatively 
abundant out on the prairies, wald-cats plentiful, while 
only a few nights before our arrival, a 2}anther had put 
in an appearance at a settler's cabin, while the man was 
away, and carried away a hog before the eyes of the 
settler's wife and children. One of the party had a 
Eemington, No. 12 bore, 30-in. breech-loader along, 
and made quick work with whatever birds came within 
range. The execution of this gun is remarkable, and we 
could shoot w^th equal ease the smallest warbler or 
largest heron or hank. Its simplicity of construction, 
plainness, and cheapness, make it just the gun for the 
collector. This gun, with my 9-in. Remington revolver, 
was amply sufficient in the way of fire-arms, tliough we 
had encumbered ourselves with several other weapons. 

There will, undoubtedly, be many visitors to the 
Okeechobee and Kissimmee region next winter, and I 
doubt not that the sporting facilities will be thoroughly 
tested. The boat in which I made my trip I sold to 



THE OKEECHOBEE EXPEDITIOIT. 245 

Judge Parker, a resident on the Kissimmee, near Fort 
Bassenger, and any party desiring to make the trip 
could not do better than secure control of the stanch 
Forest and Stream, as she is a boat well suited to 
the work. 

I left St. Lucie, Indian river, the 14th of February. 
As before stated, it was my intention to have my boat 
transported to the Kissimmee river, and sail down that 
river into and around Lake Okeechobee. 

This plan has been adhered to, and has resulted in 
a complete success. Of all the parties started for Lake 
Okeechobee this winter — and there seem to have been 
many — ours is the only one that has penetrated the 
Everglades and explored the lake. It is, in fact, the 
only party that has sailed completely around the lake, 
and brought from theuce authentic information regard- 
ing its topography and natural productions. The lake 
is the largest in the South. Probably less has been 
known of this lake than of any body of water of like 
size in the Union, owing to the impassability of the 
country about it, and the alleged hostility of the Indians 
upon its borders. During tlie Indian war of 1835-'43, 
boats crossed up it on two occasions, ascending and de- 
scendiugthe Kissimmee river, and scouring the cypress 
swamjos in search of Indians. In the war of '56-'58, 
forts, or military stations, were located as near the lake 
as the character of the land would permit, and it was 
frequently crossed, and, no doubt, pretty thoroughly 
explored. But the soldiers of the last Indian war were 
principally militia, natives of the country, and but little 
knowledge of the lake was disseminated through them. 
Since that time Okeechobee lias remained veiled in 
obscurity, No one but the Seminoles knew the charac- 



246 THE OKEECHOBEE EXPEDITION-. 

ter of its shores or the productions of its waters. The 
mystery surrounding it has been unbroken, nothing has 
been really known of it, until our boat was launched upon 
its waters. The State engineer of Florida, in 1855, 
expressed the opinion generally held regarding the coun- 
try about the lake, when he wrote : " These lands are now, 
and will continue to be, nearly as much unknown as the 
interior of Africa, or the mountain sources of the Ama- 
zon." Fabulous stories of beautiful islands, picturesque 
ruins, and pirate-haunted glens, have been much in vogue 
with writers upon Lake Okeechobee, and to lift the veil 
tliat has so long hung over it, and narrate the plain facts, 
is to deprive tliem of a seemingly inexhaustible fund of 
romance. I must confess that it pains me to do so, but 
fidelity to trutli compels me to write of the lake as it is, 
and not as it should be. The beautiful groves of trop- 
ical fruits, the monkeys, spiders of gigantic size, and 
ancient ruins, are among the things that were not. 

There is but one practicable route to Lake Okeecho- 
bee, that via the Kissimmee river. There are, however, 
two routes to that river, and for the edification of the 
future traveller to the lake I will describe them. A 
good boat, provisions, and everything necessary for a 
month's stay, are necessary by either. The one I adopted 
was, as stated, from Indian river, at St. Lucie, across 
the country, to the location of old Fort Bassenger, on 
the Kissimmee river. The first ten miles is through a 
low open pine woods, very wet in the winter months, 
through which flow two deep creeks, the "Five-mile" 
and "Ten-mile." From Ten-mile creek the course is 
north of west for twenty-four miles, at first over the 
Alapattie Flats, submerged as late as March, and dry 
and alkaline in the dry season ; later, a short wiry grass 



THE OKEECHOBEE EXPEDITIO]Sr. 247 

covers them, and shallow poncTs, dry in the dry season, 
occur at intervals. The clumps of cypress here are 
characteristic of this section, being in long curving lincB, 
resembling mountains at a distance. At intervals of 
half a dozen miles, pine islands occur, with opportuni- 
ties for camping. Sixteen miles from Ten-mile creek, 
twenty-six from St. Lucie, the prairies of the St. Johns 
are taken and kept until the old military road from Fort 
Capron to Tampa is struck, when the course is due west 
for five miles through a belt of timber to the Kissimmee 
Prairies. This belt runs nearly north and south, separa- 
ting the prairies of the Kissimmee from those of the 
St. Johns and the Alapattie Flats. The road over the 
prairies is rather obscure, as also is that to the timber 
upon the other side, but easily followed by a woodsman. 
The course is south-west. The prairie is dotted with 
pine islands, the last one (in which lives the only 
settler on the route. Judge Parker) is over two miles in 
width. The Kissimmee at the ford is about fifty yards 
wide, though it sometimes overflows its banks for two 
miles upon the eastern side. We had to wade a mile 
before launching our boat. 

The other route is from Lake Jessup, or Winder, on 
the St. Johns, to Lake Tohopekaliga, or Cypress, the 
head-waters of the Kissimmee. It is said to be about 
forty miles overland, and one hundred and forty down 
the river to Bassenger. The settlers near the river knew 
nothing of the distance from the Fort Bassenger ford to 
the lake, but thought it to be sixty miles. We found it 
about fifty-five miles, and it took us two days to reach 
the lake. The river is extremely crooked, the current 
swift, and the water the best in south Florida. The 
width at the ford is maintained throughout almost its 



'HS THE OKEECHOBEE EXPEDITI0:N'. 

entire length, though narrowing in i3laccs near its 
mouth. During the first thirty miles are occasional 
live-oak and* maple bluffs, but beyond that the river ran 
through vast plains of cane and saw-gi'ass, and between 
low willows. Many lagoons make up from the river. 
Isolated clumps of magnolia grow in the marsh, appear- 
ing like large trees at a distance. Ten miles from the 
ford is a settler's cabin, the last on the river. Twenty 
miles from the lake is the last oak, and three miles from 
the lake a large cypress, from which a view of the lake 
can be obtained. 

The Kissimmee, as it enters the lake, forms a bay a 
mile in width and depth, filled with lilies and water- 
lettuce. There are two cypress trees near its mouth, but 
all around is marsh. The most conspicuous birds on the 
river have been the limpkin, or crying bird, the white 
ibis, white heron, snake bird, and vulture. Black bass 
are plentiful and large, perch, cat-fish, and bream also 
abound. All the way down, on either side, is a pine 
ridge, from three to five miles away, sometimes ap- 
proaching the river. It spreads out as it nears the lake, 
and maintains the same distance on the west side, and 
merges itself in the cypress bordering the eastern shore. 
It is a little over a mile to the first projection of the bay, 
west, where cypress and grass shoals present a dreary 
appearance. Back of this, however, is a drift of sand, 
upon which grows a thin belt of elm, maj)le, and elder- 
beiTy, interlaced and overgrown with large grape vines. 
Back of this sand, which must be covered at high- water, 
is a dark lagoon, filled with alligators. A large fish- 
hawk's nest here, induced us to call this place Osprey 
Point. A mile further is a camping place used by 
Indians when hunting, all cypress. The sand is here 



in' 

W 









/I 



THE OKEECHOBEE EXPEDITI02T, 249 

six inches above the lake, and a quiet lagoon affords 
shelter for a boat. Detached belts of cypress and marsli 
occur next, and the only place suitable for camping is 
ten miles south-west. We called it Mulberry Camp, 
from the occurrence of that tree there. Besides mul- 
berries, there are ash, maple, box-wood, cypress, India 
rubber and elderberry. There are gigantic cypresses 
here, six feet in diameter, completely enclosed in the 
India rubber, and covered with ivy. 

The shore trends south-west for about fifteen miles 
from the Kissimmee, where along cypress hammock 
ends in a lone palmetto. Here a deep bay makes in 
some three miles, and is about five miles in width. At 
the end of this bay, tlie palmetto spurs from the main 
ridge approached within a mile. All south of this is an 
unbroken marsh, deeply indented with bays, from which 
blind creeks or "slouglis" ramify in every direction. 
Due south of this palmetto point is a low willow island, 
with but a few inches of sand above water, covered with 
nests of heron and snake-bird. A marsh extends to this 
island, and south of it is another deep bay. Below this 
island the shore trends southward for about eight miles, 
then the dip is south-east — a desolate region, with a low, 
dark line of willows bordering the shore. It has a very 
deceptive appearance, this same shore, as various shades 
from the light of the grass shoals to the dark of the 
willows, make it seem very high, and the traveller is only 
disenchanted by a close inspection. 

About thirty miles south by west of Kissimmee is the 
only island in the lake affording foothold to man. It is 
one and a half miles long and four miles from the south- 
west shore. It runs north-west and south-east, and is 
dry upon its eastern or lake side, and marshy on the 
11* 



350 TnE OKEECHOBEE EXPEDITIOK. 

•vrestern, or shore side. It is nowhere more than a foot 
above tlie level of the water, a dry sand-ridge, covered 
with India rubber, ash, and sweet bay, with a few paw- 
paws in fruit and flower. Nearly half an acre, at one 
end, was covered with vines of the wild gourd. Upon 
both sides and at either end is a thick growth of willow, 
with some cypress. The northern end is covered with 
the dark vines of the ipomea, in which hundreds of white 
herons and spoonbills have built their nests. From a tall 
cypress here, the shore can be traced for many miles — 
nothing but marsh and marsh for miles, with a few 
palmettoes, spurs from the main ridge some five miles 
back. Due south of this island is a sand beach a mile 
in length, covered with large cypress. It is but thirty 
feet wide, backed by interminable marsh. Some rare 
minute fossil shells were found here. A bay two miles 
deep is found south of this point, and thence the shore 
trends south-east. The course from point to point is 
due east. There are three projecting points from the 
main marsh, of this, the southern end of Lake Okee- 
chobee, covered with a vegetation strikingly different 
from that of the western and northern shores. It is 
here that the water filters througli tlie grassy, marshy 
rim to the south. The low custard apple is the only 
tree here. Joint-grass and lilies are thickly filled in, 
the whole forming a mass easily permeated by the water. 
The lake terminates in three great bays, from five to 
six miles in width, curving easterly. If there are any 
streams leading out of them, they are not navigable, or 
even discernible. Nearly opposite the island before 
mentioned, Fish Eating creek comes in — a large creek 
in some places, but not navigable for our boat. Fort 



THE OKEECHOBEE EXPEDITION-. 251 

Centre, a military post in the last Indian war, was six 
miles from the lake upon this creek. 

After this succession of bays and marsliy points the 
shore suddenly turns northward, and vegetation assumes 
a different appearance. Cypress appear here and there, 
and a thick sprinkling of ash and palmetto. About f our 
miles from the commencement of the northward dip, the 
shore turns north-east. Three miles south of this curve 
is a group of three islands, about two miles in length. 
They curve from south to north-east, and are nearly 
submerged, only covered with ash, apparently, and low 
willows. At.this curve in the main shore ends the Ever- 
glades, and commences a cypress belt that extends north- 
east for thirty miles. The beach here is composed of 
disintegrated shells, and there are many species of salt- 
water shells thrown upon the shore. Fragments of 
coquina, also, were found here. There were tracks of 
coons and rabbits here, the first seen since leaving the 
north-west shore. Moccasin snakes were unusually 
plentiful, and unwound themselves from nearly every 
fallen tree. A belt of cypress, in which is mingled all 
the trees mentioned as occurring in the hammocks of the 
north-west shore, backs this white shell beach, the only 
breaks in which, to within two miles of the Kissimmee, 
are, first a deep sound, fifteen miles sout'i-east of the 
Kissimmee, and a bay two miles from that ri^'er. This 
latter bay so much resembles that of the Kissimmee that 
it will puzzle one unless he examines it thoroughly. 
Taylor's creek, and another smaller, empty into the lake 
within ten miles of the Kissimmee, but their channels 
are so choked with water-lettuce and lilies that an expe- 
rienced eye is required to discern them. 

The lake is about forty miles long, by twenty-five in 



252 THE OKEECHOBEE EXPEDITION". 

width. In length, the greatest from the mouth of the 
Kissimmce south-east ; in breadtli, near the centre. It 
is very shallow, and grass shoals extend for miles into the 
lake. Nowhere did we find a greater depth than twelve 
feet. In fish Okeechobee is deficient ; such is the violence 
of the storms there, and such the shallowness of the lake, 
that it is often stirred to its very centre, and no fish of 
ordinary mould can survive such a stirring up. The 
fish-food, also, the Crustacea, etc., is scarce. Alligators 
are not so numerous as one would expect, except in the 
lagoons and at the creek-mouths. Birds are not abun- 
dant, with the exception of the fish-hawk, crying-birds, 
snake-birds, and heron. A complete list of the birds 
will be found in a separate chapter. 

During all our voyage we saw but one man, beside 
our party, and the only evidence of any people ever 
having lived here was in the discovery of the remains of 
two villages, the houses sunken to the ground, and the 
plantations overrun with the wild growth of the swamp. 
This was upon the east shore, eleven miles east of the 
Kissimmee river. Bananas, paw-paws, sugar-cane, and 
guavas were growing here in wild luxuriance. These 
villages belonged to a portion of the Okeechobee tribe 
of Seminoles, now living in the Big Cypress, south- 
west of Lake Okeechobee. 

Fred Beverly. 



xxy. 

FLOEIDA TKAVEL. 



THE St. Johns river is tlie great attraction for all 
tourists ; but those who wish to examine a wild 
and weird stream, should take one of Colonel Hart's 
steamers from Pilatka and ascend the Ochlawaha ; and 
en route visit that great natural curiosity, Silver Spring. 
Owing to the character of the navigation, the boats 
present an unpretending exterior ; but the accommoda- 
tions and table can be recommended, more especially 
when we take into consideration the low price of 
passage. 

A large number of steam-boats ply on the St. Johns 
river, and the tourist will find comfortable state-rooms 
and well supplied tables. But visitors to Florida must 
remember that the stewards of the boats cannot visit 
Fulton Market and buy in a stock of luxuries. When 
we take everything into consideration, we must con- 
gratulate the owners of steamboats in the State for the 
manner in which they cater for their passengers. 

Jacksonville, the great objective j^oi^t, is well sup- 
plied with hotels, and innumerable private boarding 
houses. At Magnolia, Hibernia, Green Cove Spring, 
Pilatka, Mellon ville, and Enterprise, excellent hotels will 
be found. For the information of intendins: tourists 



254 FLORIDA TRAVEL. 

and sportsmen we will furnish rates to all important 
landings on the St. Johns river. 

Fare to all landings between Jacksonville and Green Cove 

Spring '. $1 00 

Fare to all landings above Green Cove Spring to Pilatka 2 00 
Meals Extra. 

Jacksonville to San Mateo 4 00 

Welaka 5 00 

" " Lake George Landing 6 00 

Volusea 7 00 

Blue Spring 8 00 

" '* Enterprise and Mellon ville 9 00 

Lake Harris 13 00 

SaltLake 14 00 

State-room and meals included in fare to all points beyond 
Pilatka. 

Charge for row boats to Enterprise $3 to 6 

" SaltLake 8 

From Salt Lake, passengers can secure transportation 
to Indian river for about $5. Freight one-half cent per 
pound. A small steamer has been placed on Indian 
river, but as yet nothing definite has been determined 
regarding fare or time of departure. So much has 
already been written about Indian river as an attractive 
point for sportsmen that I shall refrain from adding 
my mite. 

New Smyrna, on the Halifax river, can be reached 
from Enterprise, but as Colonel Alden has so thoroughly 
written up the locality in the columns of the public 
press, we shall refrain from commenting upon its 
climate, bathing, and piscatorial attractions. But we 
are compelled to state that sportsmen will find the Colo- 
nel approachable, and ever ready to furnish information 
regarding his section. 



FLORIDA TRAVEL. 255 

St. Augustine can be readied from Tocoi by railroad. 
The road is fourteen miles in lengtli and the charge for 
passage $2.50. The price may seem exorbitant, but 
travellers must remember that travel is limited, and that 
the road must earn sufficient, in three months to run it 
for twelve. Excellent hotel accommodations will be 
found in St. Augustine, and in addition, the tourist can 
choose between a number of private boarding houses. 

If any adA-enturous sporting reader T\dshes to indulge 
in an agreeable and romantic trip, w^e would advise him 
to obtain a light flat-bottomed boat, eighteen to twenty 
feet long, five feet beam, with centre-board and sprit sail. 
Forward it to Jacksonville by sailing vessel or steamer ; 
from Jacksonville to Mellonville by steamboat. Trans- 
port boat from Mellonville to Lake Hoptaliga by wagon, 
a distance of about thirty- five miles, at an expense of 
$25. From the lake descend the Kissimmee river to 
Lake Okeechobee, a distance of about one hundred and 
sixty miles. The river is bounded by extensive prairies, 
and the hunter can indulge in deer shooting to his satis- 
faction. Ducks and 'gators exist in immense quantities, 
and bass (trout) fishing will be found to be excellent. 
Owing to the prevalence of easterly winds, the open 
nature of the country and the rapid current, Okeechobee 
can be reached in three days from Hoptaliga. 

From the mouth of the Kissimmee to the mouth of 
Fish Eating creek is a distance of about thirty miles. 
But to find the entrance to the latter stream is the rub. 
Three parties have descended the Kissimmee, and 
searched for the mouth of the creek, but failed to find 
it. I pi-opose entering it before next spring, from the 
lake, and if I succeed, I will erect a pole at its mouth, 
surmounted with a tin can.- The best directions I can 



256 FLORIDA TRAVEL. 

furnish to parties desirous of entering the creek are as 
follows : 

From the mouth of the Kissimmce river to Fish Eat- 
ing creek the course of the lake shore is south-west by 
west, about thirty miles ; and from the mouth of the 
creek the trend of the shore is south-south-east. The 
bearings of the lake shore will guide the wanderer in 
finding the entrance of the creek. North of the creek 
less than one mile, a very large cypress will he noticed in 
the lake, about six hundred feet from the shore. Owing 
to the prevalence of easterly winds, the- mouth of the 
creek will probably be found obstructed by floating let- 
tuce, but the channel can be discovered by keeping near 
the shore and sounding with a pole. To escape the 
difficulties attending the navigation of the creek (for two 
and a half miles, beginning at the lake), inconsequence 
of the presence of lettuce, we would advise parties to take 
to the nuu-sh opposite the large cypress, and pursue south- 
west by west course, which will land them in the creek 
above the obstruction ; in an ordinary state of water a boat 
can be pushed through the saw-grass and lity-pads. 

Proceeding up the creek about five miles, an immense 
mound will be noticed on the left bank. This has not 
been opened to any extent, and if archseologically inclined 
the tourist may amuse himself. Six miles above the 
mound a ford will be discovered, and this i)oint is named 
New Fort Centre. By proceeding a few miles above the 
crossing, the sportsman could camp on the banks of the 
creek under the protecting branches of some huge live- 
oak, and indulge in the best deer and turkey shooting in 
the United States. The creek is noted for its numbers 
of large trout (bass). 

The question of how to reach the Caloosahatchie Avill 



• FLORIDA TKAVEL. 257 

be asked. The pedestrian of the party must provide 
himself with a bottle of water, and some provisions, and 
take the old military road at the ford and follow it 
for twelve miles in a south-west direction, when Mr. 
Carlton's residence will be discovered. I arranged with 
Mr. Carlton to transport boat and traps for any party from 
the creek to Fort Thompson, at the head of navigation, 
on the Caloosahatchie. The price agreed upon v\ath Mr. 
Carlton, for self, wagon, and team, was $3 per day. Going 
to and returning from the creek would require two days, 
and entail an expense of $6. I engaged Mr. Carlton to 
carry me to Fish Eating creek, and formed a very favor- 
able opinion of him. 

At the rapids, large trout and cavalli, weighing three 
to four pounds, can be captured. As a general rule, a 
number of Indians will be found in camp at the fort, 
and superior buckskins can be purchased from them 
for 81 per skin. The descent of the Caloosahatchie a 
distance of about 110 miles vv'ill be found to be an enjoy- 
able trip. When Pimta Eassa is reached, the wanderer 
may do up Charlotte Harbor, or take the steamer Valley 
City on Tuesday and reach Cedar Keys on Thursday. 

The trip from Jacksonville, and return via Punta 
Eassa and Cedar Keys, a distance of about 1,000 miles 
could be made in a limited period and at a trifling 
expense. We are under the imi3ression that we could do 
it up in the time indicated below : 2 days to Mellonville ; 
2 days to Hoptaliga ; 4 days to Okeechobee ; 2 days to 
Fish Eating creek ; 1 day to Fort Centre ; 3 days to be 
occupied in transporting boat to Fort Thompson ; 4 days 
from Fort T. to Punta Eassa ; 2 days from Punta Eassa 
to Cedar Keys ; 1 day from Cedar Keys to Jacksonville ; 
or twenty-one days for the round trip. 



258 FLORIDA TRATEL. • 

I may remark that boats can be purchased in Jack- 
sonville ; but, as they are generally built of yellow pine, 
they are heavy and apt to leak. Before leaving Jackson- 
ville, or Mellon ville, a party should provide themselves 
with a pushing pole sixteen feet long. 

It seems strange that Florida is almost the oldest 
settled portion of the United States, and up to the 
present time no person has left the Atlantic coast and 
reached the Gulf through the medium of a boat, via 
St. Johns, Kissimmee, Okeechobee, and Caloosahatchie, 
and for the obvious reason that no one has been able to 
,find the mouth of Fish Eating creek. If I can find the 
right kind of a companion, I will make the attempt 
in December or January. I have recently received one 
of Bond's sectional boats, sixteen feet long, and propose 
testing its applicability for the trip. South-west Florida 
is a sportsman's paradise, and truly worth visiting. 
Frosts are unknown, rain seldom falls during the winter 
months, the days are not uncomfortably warm, and the 
health is unexceptionable. 

" Al Feesco." 



XXVI. 
HOMOSASSA— TALLAHASSEE. 

SINCE my last communication was mailed, I have 
receiyed a letter from E. J. Harris, Esq., of Ocala, 
in answer to one of mine ; and I shall copy portions of 
it for the benefit of intending tourists : 

" Yours of the 4th was received the other day, relative 
to the route and conveyances to Homosassa. Alfred 
Davis, a well-to-do colored man, who keeps horses and 
vehicles to hire, agreed with me at the following prices : 
Eor carrying one person and his baggage from Ocala to 
Homosassa, $10. For two j)ersons, at the same time, 812 ; 
or $6 each. For three persons or more, at the same time, 
$5 each. His vehicles consist of one hack with cover, 
and one one-horse bugg}^ He says that he will have 
another two-horse hack soon. Davis will pay the ferriage 
over the Withlacoochee river, and all expenses of driver 
and team. 

*' The distance is somewhere about forty-six miles ; 
that is to the landing on Mr. Yulee's old plantation. 
The road, for Florida, is neither good nor bad, but what 
you would call middling ; a part of it over sand-hills. 
But by taking an early start, the trip may be made in a 
day, which Davis proposes to do. I think the price rea- 
sonable enough, considering the distance. There will be 
other horses and vehicles to hire. I also will keep, the 



260 HOMOSASSA — TALLAHASSEE. 

coming season, horses and hacks chiefly to run between 
this (Ocala) and Silver Spring, and convey persons free 
of cost, that may want to stop at my house. I have a . 
house at Silver Spring, and will have it fitted up in good 
style by January, to run in connection with my hotel 
in Ocala." 

In addition to the remarks of Mr. Harris, I may state 
that the old plantation on the Homosassa river to which 
he refers is distant from Jones' residence about two 
miles. I will communicate with J., and he will make 
arrangements for the transportation of guests on their 
arrival at the end of the hack journey. 

I cannot refrain from expressing an opinion with 
regard to Ocala, as a winter resort for invalids. The 
land is high, and the air is pure and dry. Last fall I 
advised two ladies to winter there — one was suffering 
from tuberculosis of the left lung ; and the other from 
neuralgia and general debility. In both cases, relief was 
obtained. Mr. Harris as well as his better half, are 
kindness itself. The hotel is large, but old-fashioned ; 
and, if he is justified, Mr. Harris will refurnish it. The 
accommodations are fair ; and tlie table very good for an 
inland locality. The terms of board are about $25 per 
month. Ocala boasts of a telegraph station, and a mail 
four times weekly. The population numbers about four 
hundred. The great objection to the place, is the exist- 
ence of fleas ; and we would recommend intending visit- 
ors to supply themselves with quantum siijf. of insect 
powder. The other day, I was favored with a visit from 
one of the city fathers of Ocala ; and advised him to 
secure the passage of an ordinance by the council, remov- 
ing hogs from the city limits ; as these animals are to a 
great extent the cause of fleas. He assured me that he 



HOMOSASSA — TALLAHASSEE. 261 

would use his efforts to accomplisli the desired end. As 
a winter residence for the consumptive, we have no hesi- 
tation in recommending Ocala. For the sportsman it 
possesses no attractions. 

As a resort for sportsmen, the fine country around 
Tallahassee has been overlooked. Before the war, a 
large area was under cultivation in cotton, and, as a con- 
sequence, old fields surronnd the city in every direction, 
and these literally swarm with quail. In fact, I ques- 
tion if they can be found as plentiful in any other sec- 
tion of the ITnited States. East of Tallahassee is Lake 
Lafayette, six miles in length ; and four miles north of 
the city Lake Jackson, seventeen miles long. During the 
winter months these lake swarm with duck and brant, 
and the gunnist may enjoy himself until surfeited. To 
the angler Lake Jackson presents many attractions, as it 
is well stocked with some of the largest bass and bream 
to be found in the State. 

Li order that I might supply the reader with valuable 
information, I addressed my friend F. B. Papy, Esq., 
of the J. P. & M. K. E., and in reply received the fol- 
lowing : 

"Tallahassee, Florida, Sept. 16, 1875. 

'' Dear Sir : Your favor of the 7th, to Mr. F. B. 
Papy, to hand ; he is now absent north, but I hope the 
information I may give will serve you. 

" Q. At what season does brant and duck shooting 
exist in perfection ? A. From middle of November to 
middle of March. 

'- Q. Have you any woodcock in your section during 
the winter ? A. Very few. 



262 HOMOS ASS A — TALLAHASSEE. 

" Q. Can comfortable board be obtained at Lake 
Jackson ? A. Country board. 

'^ Q. Can comfortable board be obtained where qnail 
are plentiful ; and terms ? A. Yes ; terms, $8 to $10 
per week. 

'^Q. AVhat are the terms for board in your city? 
A. Hotel, $3.50 per diem ; private board, $8 to $12.50 
per week. 

*^Q. Can boats be obtained at Lake Jackson ? A. 
Yes. 

^'Arrangements are in progress as regards excursion 
tickets to Tallahassee. Will be happy to give any infor- 
mation in my power, as well as any of the citizens of the 
vicinity. Favorable excursion rates will be effected 
between Jacksonville and Middle Florida during the 
season, which will be announced in due time. 
''Very truly yours, 

"Wm. E. Ames, 

''For F. B. Papy." 

Tallahassee is easily reached from Jacksonville, and is 
well worth visiting by the sportsman. Upon arrival at 
depot, if Mr. Papy is interviewed he will furnish all 
necessary information. He is a capital shot, an ardent 
sportsman, and his statements can be relied upon. 
Tallahassee is rather an uncomfortable locality for car- 
pet-baggers and scallawags, but the gentlemanly sports- 
man will meet with a true southern welcome from all ; 
and will be treated with the utmost kindness and cour- 
tesy. I am a Northern man, and speak from experience. 
Southerners have been misrepresented by bigoted and 
narrow-minded Northerners who have visited the State, 
and false impressions have been produced. A few 



H0:M0SASSA — TALLAHASSEE. 263 

prejudiced persons have visited tlie South, and have taken 
advantage of every opportunity to ventihite their crotch- 
ety and angular points. They have received the cold 
shoulder, and in their correspondence have resorted to 
misrepresentations. I have wandered around the world, 
and in the United States from the head of Lake Supe- 
rior to the Gulf of Mexico ; and during my many wan- 
derings in various portions of Florida, I have invariably 
been treated with kindness, courtesy, and hospitality — in 
fact, I have never met with the same kind and courteous 
treatment anywhere else. To the sportsman unac- 
quainted with Florida I will simply say, be courteous and 
reasonable, and a true southern welcome, and the most 
unbounded hospitality, will be extended everywhere and 
by all. 

''Al Fkesco." 



XXVII. 

SOUTH-AYEST FLOEIDA. 

1. — Fek]S'andika to Cedar Keys. 

rpHIS is the 25tli of February. On the 5th of last 
J- December, I left New York on the steamer Gulf 
Stream for Charleston, in company with Frank and 
Harry, to whom I shall refer in the future. My boat 
(the Spray), with necessaries for the trip, was shipped at 
Philadelphia for Savannah. On the night of the 7tli, Hat- 
teras favored us with quantum stiff, of wind and a cross sea 
without any foot. Although an old sea-dog, I was forced 
to succumb to the remedial measures of old Nep. After 
many voyages we fancy that we are competent to express 
an opinion regarding the sea-going qualities of steam- 
ships and sailing vessels, and have no hesitation in stat- 
ing, that the Gulf Stream is remarkable for many good 
qualities in a heavy sea. We reached Charleston on the 
8th, at nine p. M., and at eleven p. m. found ourselves 
in one of the comfortable state-rooms of the good 
steamer Dictator, en route for Savannah. The latter 
place we reached on the 9th, at six a. m., and at twelve m. 
left for Feruandina, and arrived at the latter place at 



FERNANDIls'A TO CEDAR KEYS. 265 

one A. M. on the 10th, where we knded the Spray 
and her crew. 

We have visited Florida on many occasions, and have 
tested the sea-going qualities of the Dictator and City 
Point, plying between Charleston, Savannah, Fernan- 
dina, Jacksonville, and Pilatka, and can unhesitatingly 
recommend them to the travelling public. The traveller 
who patronizes one of these boats will find large and 
pleasantly furnished forward and after cabins, large 
state-rooms, good beds, clean linen, and excellent table, 
and last, though not least, efficient, courteous, and atten- 
tive officers and servants. To those who are anxious to 
escape the buffetings of old mother ocean, we would 
say, take a sleeping car on the A. & G. R. R. from 
Savannah, and Jacksonville can be reached in a pleas- 
ant manner. Upon reaching Savannah the traveller will 
find the Lizzie Baker advertised to take the inside route 
to Florida. The statement is only true to a certain 
extent, as the Lizzie B. is compelled to take the outside 
route from Fernandina Harbor to the river St. John, 
which is the most dangerous portion of the route, and 
as the Lizzie B. is not as well adapted to cross the St. 
Johns bar or to contend with heavy seas as the Dictator 
or City Point, we unhesitatingly advise the tourist to 
take passage on one of the latter. 

Having shipped our future home, the Spray, on a 
flat car, we left Fernandina on the morning of Friday the 
11th, and at five p. m. found ourselves at Cedar Keys. 
Wc travelled over this road in February, 1873, and compli- 
ment the management upon the improved condition of 
the road- bed and motive power. One great drawback 
to Cedar Keys is the absence of a good hotel, and we are 
eatisfied that a well-conducted house, with a good table 



2(i6 SOUTH-WEST FLORIDA, 

and ])roperly cooked food, would iPiduce many tourista 
to visit tliis locality. Fishing, hunting, and shooting in 
the neighborhood are good ; — the bathing excellent, 
and the climate superior to that of Jacksonville. It 
seems to us that parties interested in the railroad 
would materially benefit themselves by erecting a first- 
class hotel at Cedar Keys, 

AVe expected to leave Cedar Keys for Manatee on the 
12th, by the steamer Emilie, but owing to the detention 
of the steamer Clyde, plying between New Orleans, 
Cedar Keys, and Havana, our departure was delayed until 
the 15th. To while away the dull hours, Ave proposed 
engaging in piscatorial pursuits, but were informed that 
•'it was too warm for sea trout to bite," Placing no 
dependence in the statement of the local authorities, I 
was resolved to test the matter, and secured several 
hundred minnows and proceeded to the railroad dock. 
With live bait we caught sea trout (weak fish) ranging 
from two to six pounds, as fast as we could bait and land 
them. On many occasions we landed a brace weighing 
from four to five pounds each. The first day we filled 
a flour barrel, and the second we abandoned the sport 
wlien we had captured 120 pounds. Around the dock 
sea-bass and porgies can be caught with cut bait, and 
slieepshead with fiddlers. On the points and about the 
reefs a few miles from town, superior red and grouper 
fishing can be obtained at Cedar Keys. The sportsman 
will find unbounded hospitality, and courteous attention 
un the part of the inhabitants. Invitations to join 
hunting and fishing expeditions were showered upon us, 
but we were forced to decline. From this point the 
tourist may take a steamship to New Orleans, Tampa, 
Punta Rcissa, Key West, or Havana. For the purpose 



FERNAlfDINA TO CEDAR KEYS. 267 

of cruising along the coast, or general sporting purposes, 
suitable boats with experienced sailing masters can be 
engaged at from four to six dollars per day. Persons 
desiring information, wishing to secure boats, or the ser- 
vices of sailing masters, may address Messrs. Willard 
& Raoux, or the post-master, J. F. Jackson. These 
gentlemen would only be too happy to furnish any infor- 
mation required, as well as assist sportsmen in every way 
upon their arrival. If these gentlemen are called upon 
by the disciples of the rod and gun, we will guarantee 
them a hearty welcome, and any assistance required. 
At this point we were introduced to a gentleman named 
Alfred E. Jones, residing at Homosassa, who invited 
us to spend a fortnight at his residence. In another 
communication we have refered to his hospitality and the 
attractions of his locality. 

At Cedar Keys we instituted numerous inquiries 
regarding Bronson, the county seat of Levy county, dis- 
tant thirty miles from Cedar Keys, on the line of rail- 
road to Fernandina. Fare from New York to Bronson, 
by Hermon Gelpcke's line (via Fernandina), $25. In the 
neighborhood of Bronson deer are plenty ; also turkeys, 
brant, duck, and quail can be found in abundance. 
Chunky Pond is distant from the village about two 
miles ; it is about two miles long and one wide, connect- 
ing with a number of smaller ponds which extend for a 
distance of about nine miles. These ponds contain bream 
and trout (bass) in endless numbers — the latter ranging 
from one to fifteen pounds. Persons visiting, or desir- 
ous of visiting Bronson, would do well to call upon or 
communicate with Mr. G. Levett, the county clerk. 
The hotel at Bronson can accommodate fifteen visitors ; 
board $7 per week. Dr. Johnson would accommodate 



268 SOUTH-WEST FLORIDA. 

two or three, and Mr. Levett, the same number ; board 
^5 per week. As a guide to the best fishing points, the 
visitor can secure the services of James Pruden, and 
for deer and turkey hunting, J. K. Tunlon or W. B. 
Kinsey. 

We spent several days very pleasantly at Cedar Keys 
and made numerous acquaintances, and in concluding I 
cannot refrain from referring to a local institution. One 
evening, at nine p. m. Messrs. AVillard & Raoux invited us 
to visit the rear of their store, where we found a portion 
of the shell of a boiler, supported by brick piers ; under 
the boiler was a large fire, and on the top thereof two 
barrels of Cedar Keys oysters. As the heat opened the 
oysters the crew of the Spray went for them, and I must 
positively decline mentioning what proportion of the 
aforesaid oysters the Sprayites deposited beneath their 
belts. 



2. — Manatee, Sarasota, akd Gasparilla. 

We left Cedar Keys Tuesday evening, on steamer 
Emilie, Captain Lefferts, and arrived at Manatee on the 
morning of Wednesday the 16th. This vessel makes 
weekly trips between Cedar Keys, Manatee, Tampa, 
Punta Rassa, and Key West. Tourists and sportsmen 
will find this steamer an excellent and comfortable 
sea-boat, and her commander an old and experienced 
sailor ; one who is ever attentive to make his passen- 
gers comfortable. In referring to the able and oblig- 



MANATEE, SARASOTA, AND GASPARILLA. 269 

ing captain^ we must not nosflect mentioning the effi- 
cient, courteous, and gentlemanly purser. To those 
who wish to enjoy a balmy atmosphere, an equable and 
salubrious climate, and a sea voyage over a calm ocean, 
we would say, take an excursion ticket on the Emilie 
from Cedar Keys to Key AVest and return. 

We are surprised that Mr. Clyde, owner of the Gal- 
veston line of steamships touching at Key West, and 
Mr. J. K. Koberts of the South-west Florida Coast line, 
do not arrange with the Pennsylvania Eailroad Com- 
pany, to issue excursion tickets, good for the round trip. 
If this arrangement could be effected, tourists could 
leave ^ew York by steamer during the pleasant autum- 
nal weather and lay over at Key West or intermediate 
points before reaching the grand objective point of 
Florida — the city of Jacksonville. Tlie return trip to 
the North could be made by rail, thereby avoiding the 
unpleasant storms that prevail on the Atlantic coast 
during February and March. This arrangement would 
enable invalids to enjoy the superior climate, and sports- 
men to pai'ticipate in the unrivalled fishing and shoot- 
ing of the south-west coast at a reasonable outlay of time 
and money. To popularize the route, we are convinced 
that it would pay interested parties to publish, for the 
benefit of tourists and sportsmen, a small guide descrip- 
tive of the route, climate, best points for fishing and 
shooting, where to obtain guides and boats, necessaries 
for outfits, etc. We have long maintained that the 
south-west coast needs but to have its advantages known 
to be appreciated. 

We launched our future home, the Spray, at Mana- 
tee, and for the benefit of others we shall describe the 
boat and outfit. Possessing a limited knowledge of the 



270 SOUTH-WEST FLORIDA. 

coast, we were convinced fchat a boat of an ordinary 
yacht model was not adapted to our wants, as she would 
draw too mucli water for the navigation of creeks, ba- 
yous and shallow rivers, and ground on the mud flats and 
oyster bars so extensively distributed in all the bays of 
the coast. A flat-bottomed or bateau-modelled boat was 
not adapted to our wants, as she would prove unsuitable 
for outside work, and would not work well to windward. 
Before purchasing, we examined a number of boats in 
New York and Philadelphia, but failed to find what we 
required. Continuing our search, we visited Burlington, 
New Jersey, and found the Spray for sale ; and she was 
purchased. Having traversed nearly three degrees of 
latitude, and two and three-quarters of longitude in the 
Spray, we are in a position to form an opinion, and 
would unhesitatingly advise intending tourists to secure 
a boat of similar model, as we found her in every way 
adapted to a boat journey on the south-west coast. 
Length of Spray, twenty-one feet ; beam, seven feet ; cat 
rigged ; centre-board ; form of bottom, midway between 
bateau and yacht ; deep scag forward ; decked over for- 
ward seven feet ; movable cabin, six feet six inches. 
This form of hull sui3plies room for stowage, light 
draught of water ; rows well ; is remarkably stiff ; and 
dry and comfortable in a sea-way. 

Outfit, two pairs of oars ; canvas awning to stretch 
over boom, and fasten to screw eyes in each quarter (thus 
protecting after part of boat), anchor and cable, palm, 
needles and sail twine, lantern, lampwick, lard oil, five- 
gallon water-keg, bucket, broom, spade, axe, saw, screw- 
driver, gimlet, hammer, oyster knife, compass, binocular 
glass, small stove, frying pan, coflee-j)ot, tin stew-pan, 
tin cups and plates, knives and forks, nails, screws, screw 



MAKATEE, SARASOTA, AND GAS"PARILLA. 27i 

eyes, tinned 10-oz. tacks, whetstone, matches in tin boxes, 
soap, towels, combs, hair and tooth brushes, pens, paper, 
ink ; postage stamps, envelopes, two feed chests, sugar in 
round wooden boxes with lids, pickles, cheese, pepper, 
salt, ten pounds best Java cotiee in tin box, six cans con- 
densed milk, forty-eight pounds best lard in eight-pound 
tin cans, ninety- four pounds best pilot bread, fifty pounds 
best breakfast bacon, two hams, two boxes red herrings, 
old boots, shoes, slippers, and clothes, blankets, with 
quantum suff. of old calico and newspapers, powder, shot, 
wads, caps, cartridges, gun-cleaning apparatus, Oolton's 
and Drew's maps of Florida, one Winchester and Rem- 
ington rifle, one breech and two muzzle-loading guns, 
hunting knives, fishing rods and tackle ; three pounds 
arsenic in tin box ; diarrhoea mixture, lead and opium 
pills for dysentery, purgative pills, and adhesive and 
court plaster, in tin cans ; tobacco, pipes, one bottle of 
brandy, and one of apple-jack. Verily, along list of 
plunder, but everything absolutely necessary for such an 
expedition. 

Our numerous necessaries were stowed, and we visited 
a neighboring saw-mill to secure spring mattresses. The 
proprietor sawed us four boards five-eighths of an inch 
thick, and three pieces one inch thick and four inches wide. 
To ari'ange our sleeping apartment at night, we placed 
the stove in the cock-pit ; the 1x4 pieces athwart ship, 
and the boards forward and aft. At night we anchored 
the Spray as far as possible from land, placed the soft 
side of the boards uppermost ; arranged our blankets ; 
secured our awning, and sle2:»t as only men can sleep, 
when inhaling the balmy and invigorating atmosphere of 
South-west Florida. 

Manatee is a pleasant village of several hundred in- 



272 SOUTH-WEST FLORIDA. 

habitants, situated on the Manatee river, eight miles from 
its mouth. At this place, tlie tourist will find two or 
three boarding houses, where fair accommodations can 
be obtained for two dollars per day, or forty dollars per 
month. This place offers to the invalid a pleasant win- 
ter climate, but to the sportsman few attractions. On 
Saturday, the 19th, we hoisted sail and bade adieu to 
Manatee. Leaving the mouth of the river we took a 
westerly course for the striped buoy in Tampa Bay, and 
from buoy, a south-west course to the tripod on Anna 
Maria Key, from a point near the tripod a south-east 
course to Palmasota Point, the entrance to Sarasota Bay. 
Between these points the channel was filled with mullet, 
and hundreds of large sharks were revelling in the su- 
perabundant supply of delicious food. 

Entering Sarasota Bay, we were greeted with a south- 
easter with some sea, but the Spray worked admirably, 
and proved herself an excellent sea-boat. Night ap- 
proaching, we made a harbor under the lee of a long 
sand-bar, and after cooking our supper we laid our weary 
limbs on our spring beds. At ten p. m. the wind hauled, 
and we found our position an uncomfortable one, com- 
pelling us to hoist anchor and seek a better harbor. The 
night being dark, I handled the lead, and stationed 
Harry at the helm. With the lead we kept in the chan- 
nel, and made tracks for the southern end of Sarasota 
Bay. At eleven p. m. we sighted two passes in the dis- 
tance, one of which we had reason to believe would carry 
us to sea, and the other into Little Sarasota Bay. We ob- 
jected to a night adventure on the Gulf, with an uncom- 
fortable sea running, and as we had been informed that the 
entrance into Little Sarasota Bay was blocked up with 
dangerous coon oyir+er reefs, except a narrow boat chan- 



MANATEE, SAllASOTA, AND GASPAKILLA. 213 

nel, we deemed it best to seek an anchorage, and having 
found shelter from the waves under the lee of an exten- 
sive grassy flat, we came to an anchor. 

Next morning we took a survey of the surroundings, 
and found that we had anchored at the south end of 
Great Sarasota Bay. We noticed a house near the beach, 
made a landing, and were gratified to find that the resi- 
ients were from Brooklyn, Xew York, and named Ben- 
nett. Being unacquainted with the coast farther south, 
and aware of the fact that a trip of thirty-eight miles to sea 
was before us, we deemed it best to secure a pilot. Ben- 
nett Junior was acquainted w4th the coast, and offered 
to pilot us, but could not leave until Bennett Senior 
returned from Manatee with their boat. The elder 
Bennett returned on Monday night, and we arranged for 
an early start on Tuesday morning. Sailing about three 
miles across the bay, we entered Sarasota Pass, a chan- 
nel of about 500 feet in width, leading from the bay to 
the Gulf. Approaching the entrance we discovered two 
channels, one leading direct to the Gulf, but bounded on 
each side by extensive sand-bars ; the other a swamp 
channel turning short to the south, around the north 
point of Casey's Key, and protected seaward by an ex- 
tensive sand-bar. We chose the latter, and soon found 
ourselves on the Gulf, with a fair wind. 

A reference to Drew's and Colton's niaps w*ill lead 
the intending tourist to believe that he will find five 
available passes between Little Sarasota and Little Gas- 
parilla inlets. But these maps are unreliable as far as 
the south-west coast is concerned. If we had relied upon 
these maps, and attempted this portion of the coast witli- 
out a pilot, we would have experienced disappointment, 
if not something worse. The distance between the 



274 SOUTH-WEST FLORIDA. 

passes referred to is thirty-eight miles. x\t noon the 
wind died awiiy, and we were compelled to resort to an 
ashen breeze. Wednesday morning at daylight, we 
sighted Little Gasparilla Pass. At low tide the pass is 
about 150 feet wide, with two entrances, one leading in 
fi'om the south, and the other a swash channel which 
hugs the north point. We chose the latter, and at 
sunrise we anchored inside the pass, discharged the pilot, 
and captured a mess of sheepshead for breakfast. After 
breakfast we got under weigh for our objective point. 
Lake Okeechobee. Possessing no knowledge of the 
route to be traversed, and anticipating dithculties during 
the journey, we resolved upon pushing ahead, and on 
our return make a careful examination of bays, rivers, 
and keys. 

From Little Gasparilla to Great Gasparilla passes, 
the distance is about two and a quarter miles. To keep 
in the channel the island must be kept close aboard. 
When Great Gasparilla Pass opens, the traveller must 
follow the channel as though he intended proceeding to 
sea, and at the southern point of Little Gasparilla 
Key he will sight a channel tending in an east-south- 
east course, which must be followed to clear a long and 
extensive sand-bar, extending from the northerly point 
of Great Gasparilla Key. Rounding the i)oint of the sand- 
bar, a channel with six to nine feet of water will be found, 
leading in a north-easterly direction, which must be fol- 
lowed. Three miles from the pass (Great Gasparilla), an 
island will be approached, and this must be left about 
100 yards to port. From this island a course south by 
east must be steered to within 200 yards of the inner 
portion of northern point of Lacosta Island. Having 
crossed Boca Grande entrance, and reached the point 



A7J0XG THE KEYS. 275 

referred to, some fishermen's palmetto huts will be 
sighted, Avhere fresh water can be obtained, and a safe 
harbor found. 

Boca Grande entrance is nearly a mile wide, with 
deep water and a rapid tidal current. If a strong south- 
erly wind is blowing against an ebb tide, a troublesome 
sea will be encountered at this entrance, and the tourist 
must govern his movements accordingly. Along this coast 
the tides differ from those of our Northern States. In- 
stead of two tides in the twenty-four hours, but one 
flood and one ebb will be found. At this point I may 
remark, that the bays north of Tampa are remarkable 
for extensive mud and grassy flats, and coon oyster bars, 
rendering navigation difficult to the uninitiated. The 
water in all the bays is very clear, and if too much sea is 
not running the tourist can pick his way through the 
intricate channels by observing the color of the water. 
A day's experience in one of these bays, with a few ex- 
periments in stepping overboard and pushing his boat 
off oyster bars and mud flats, will educate him sufficiently 
to avoide the necessity of the frequent utterance of 
language not adapted to ears polite. 



3. — AMOiq-G THE Keys. 



In my last communication I referred to a spade as 
a portion of our outfit, aud mentioned the fact that a 
supply of fresh water could be obtained at the fish ranch 
on the northern end of Lacosta Island. To the tourist, 
a supply of fresh water is indispensable, and if his boat 
is small the quantity carried must be limited, and how 
to obtain a supply is an important matter. Nearly 



21!Q SOUTH-WEST FLORIDA. 

all the islands and keys are supplied with fresh water, 
and the tourist will be informed that this indispensable 
lluid '^ can be obtained almost anywhere on the islands 
or keys by digging a hole near the beach." Water of 
fair quality can be obtained on most of the islands and 
keys, if the proper site is selected for the well. In 
digging for water, the experienced invariably select a 
locality where there are no mangrove bushes, for wher- 
ever this growth is found, water will be impregnated 
with salt. On the bay side of most of the islands and 
main land a low-growing bush or tree will be found, 
with circular shaped leaves four inches wide, and the 
searcher for fresh water should prospect near this growth, 
as fresh water will generally be found near the surface. 
We dug a well on the northern end of Little Gasparilla, 
forty feet from the beach, and curbed it with an empty 
barrel we picked up on the beach. From half flood 
until half ebb the water was very salt, but at low tide 
we found it palatable. After finishing our well, we 
explored the island, and found about its centre a la- 
goon several hundred yards in length, containing excel- 
lent water. 

From the fish ranch on the eastern end of Lacosta 
Island, we started across, south-east by south three miles, 
and found ourselves abreast of the northern end of 
Uscppa Island. At six p. m. we landed on the eastern 
side of the island, at the foot of a large shell mound. 
To the south of the large mound we found two wells of 
excellent water, and on the north side some very large 
figs, with a full supply of superior limes. Searching 
farther we discovered a luxurious banana patch, but the 
fruit was not ripe. The island is over one mile in 
length and one-third of a mile in width at the widest 



AMONG THE KEYS. 277 

point. In the centre of this island will be found several 
large shell mounds, the largest about sixty feet high. 
The southern extremity of the island is covered with 
live-oak and mangrove trees. From the mounds to the 
northern end, the island is clothed with a luxuriant 
growth of live-oak and palms, and is the highest land to 
be found on any of the coast islands south of Cedar Keys. 
In front of the mounds deep water will be found within 
a few yards of the shore. This island has been the home 
of a couple for several years, but as the female part of 
the population deemed it proper to elope with a fisher- 
man, the masculine i^ortion became guilty of arson, and 
retired from the beautiful island of Useppa, leaving 
behind him some bricks, charcoal, and the remains of a 
cooking-stove. 

This island is distant two miles from the Gulf, from 
which it is separated and protected by Lacosta Island ; 
distance to the main land, fifteen miles. Owing to its 
climatic advantages, elevation of the land, and protected 
situation, it is the most eligible site for a sanitarium in 
the South. Frost is unknown, and before the chilly 
north-west wind can reach the island, it becomes tem- 
perate by crossing the warm waters of the harbor for a 
distance of twenty miles. In this section the much-to- 
be-dreaded north-easters of the coast do not bring rain, 
and have none of that searching, chilly nature that 
characterizes them on the Atlantic side. Useppa is 
truly the winter home for the invalid suffering from 
pulmonary disease — excelling in climatic advantages Ber- 
muda, Xice, or Madeira. Y\^e 2:)redict that the day is not 
far distant when a large hotel will grace the shell mound 
on this island, and invalids in hundreds will inhale a 
.ife-restoring atmosphere unequalled by that of any pai-t 



278 SOUTH-WEST FLORIDA. 

of the world. The winter season in this section is re- 
markable for the small amount of rain and the equable 
temperature. At Punta Kassa, twenty miles north of 
Useppa, at a much less favored portion, the highest range 
of the thermometer for the years of '72, '73, and '74, 
was 95 degrees, and the lowest 40 degrees. The observ- 
ers stationed at Punta Rassa favored me with the range 
of the thermometer for the year 1874, and I shall merely 
give the highest and lowest ranges for the various 
months : 

Highest. Lowest. 

January 79 42 

February 84 50 

March 85 55 

April 87 55 

May 90 59 

June 91 70 

July 91 , 70 

August 91 70 

September 91 67 

October 85 64 

November 82 50 

December 80 49 

We spent several weeks at Charlotte Harbor and the 
Caloosahatchie river, and did not see a drop of rain dur- 
ing that period ; and found the climate invigorating and 
delightful. This section of the State is not affected by 
those sudden transitions of temperature which are so 
unpleasant farther north, or on the Atlantic coast. For 
the sportsman, Useppa offers many attractions, as the 
neighboring oyster reefs and low islands are frequented 
by countless numbers of snipe ; the adjoining islands are 
well stocked with deer, and the waters of the bay teem 



AMONG THE KEYS. 279 

with fish of a superior quality. On our return we called 
at this island to secure a supply of water. I engaged 
in capturing a mess of fish, and in a short time, with 
fiddlers for bait, landed the following : cavalli, sheeps- 
head, red and black grouper, porgy, sea- bass, angel-fish, 
and catfish. 

Soon after our arrival at Useppa, a fishing schooner, 
named the Breaker, came to an anchor, and we 
boarded her, as we fancied we might patch up some 
information. The captain was named William Smart, 
and resided at Key West. He had been navigating the 
south-west coast for twenty-seven years, and appeared 
thoroughly posted with regard to every island, key, 
channel, pass, bay, creek, river, and shoal on the coast. 
During the survey of Charlotte Harbor he had been 
engaged in the capacity of pilot, and during the last 
Indian war he was employed in the Quartermaster's 
Department. He informed me that he owned a fast- 
fcailing sloop of five tons measurement, in every way 
adapted to the navigation of the south-west coast. He 
stated that he would fit her up, so as to comfortably 
accommodate a party of six sportsmen ; supply stove and 
cooking utensils, and two Mystic-built skiffs. He and his 
son (an intelligent youth of sixteen) would sail the craft, 
cook, and render themselves generally useful. For all 
this fit-out and services, the captain would charge four 
dollars per day. One great recommendation, in my 
estimation, is the fact that Captain Smart is a teetotaller. 
A party of four or six could charter this craft, take 
steamer at Xew York, and on arrival at Key West take 
possession. The tourist could visit the keys, islands. 
Days, capes, rivers, creeks, harbors, passes, and mainland 
— in fact all the more important hunting and fishiug 



280 SOUTH-WEST FLORIDA. 

points between Key West and Cedar Keys— when the 
party could take the cars for liome. Having had a 
limited experience of climate and hunting and fishing on 
the south-west coast, I wish to continue it, and would 
only be too happy to join from three to five congenial 
spirits, in the fall of 1875, to charter the sloop referred 
to, and do up hi a thorough manner sections that I have 
merely prospected, and others that I have not visited. 

Leaving the fishing ranch on the north end of La- 
costa Island, and steering a course north-east by east 
eight miles, a deep bay, without islands, shoals, or mud- 
banks, will open up. From this point a course north *by 
west twelve miles will reveal the broad entrance to Peas 
creek, which stream can be ascended for eighty miles. 
Reliable parties, who have visited and who reside upon 
this stream, have assured me that its banks present a 
fine field for deer and turkey hunting. Crossing the 
head of the bay, six miles in a westerly direction from 
Peas creek, the Myokka river will open up. From state- 
ments received, I have reason to believe that the Myokka 
is the home of the alligator, the place where the big 
fellows live, exist, and have their being. The limited 
time at our disposal would not admit of our visiting 
these attractive streams, but we hope at some future 
time to examine them and perforate a few of those 
gigantic saurians. 

Leaving Useppa, a course south-east by east must be 
steered until the south-west portion of Pine Island is 
abeam and distant one mile, then east by north until 
pLinta Ilassa bears north by east three-quarters of a mile. 
From this point a northerly course will bring the dock 
at the telegraph station. Leaving Useppa four miles 
astern, we sighted a small ^'coon oyster" island. It 



METEOROLOGY. 281 

presented a singular appearance, and an examination 
with a glass revealed the fact that it was literally covered 
with snipe. Four shots furnished us with more than 
enough for an extensive snipe steAV, and an examination 
of them revealed the fact that we had bagged six distinct 
species. The tide was low and the island was surrounded 
by an extensive mud flat mixed with broken shells. The 
shallow water was literally alive with sheepshead, weak- 
fiah, red-fish, pompano, cavalli, grouper, etc. In the 
deeper water there roamed dozens of voracious sharks, 
who in pursuit of their prey would venture into the 
shallow waters until a portion of their bodies was 
exposed. Frank amused himself for over an hour in 
the water and mud, hunting sharks with a shot gun. 
They appeared to be unacquainted with man,and exhib- 
ited no fear. They were so intent upon securing a meal 
that they could be approached within a few feet. De- 
sirous of reaching our goal, we reluctantly left this 
piscatorial paradise, and made sail for Punta Rassa, 
where we arrived on the evening of the 24th of December, 
and telegraphed to loved ones — '^ Compliments of the 
season. All well. Depart for interior to-morrow." 



4. — Meteorology. 



Perso:s'S undertaking a boat cruise on the south-west 
coast should provide' themselves with the published 
charts of Charlotte Harbor. These show the sound- 
ings of Boca Grande and Caloosa entrances ; and San 
Carlos Bay to the mouth of the Caloosahatchie river. 
Outside of these localities the tourist will be com- 
pelled to pick his way, unless he is well supplied with 



282 SOUTH-WEST FLORIDA. 

this world's goods and can engage the services of a pilot. 
Occasionally an old coaster will be met with, from whom 
some valuable information can be obtained regarding the 
navigation of localities the wanderer may wish to visit — 
and such opportunities sliould be taken advantage of. 

We may remark at this time that we found our outfit 
deficient in several important implements. This being 
our first boat cruise in this section, and having a large 
amount of plunder to stow and transport, we were some- 
what excusable for leaving behind three important 
weapons, to wit : a harpoon, grains, and turtle peg. The 
two former are well known, and can be obtained in fish- 
ing-tackle stores ; but as the turtle peg is seldom seen 
in the North I may at some future time give a descrip- 
tion of it. In enumerating, on a former occasion, the 
articles composing our outfit, I neglected to mention a 
Spanish cast net. I purchased one before leaving the 
North, but found it entirely useless. It was made of 
cotton twine, eight feet wide, and with but six pounds 
of lead to sink it. For use m southern waters a net 
should be made of the best gilling twine, twelve to four- 
teen feet in diameter, and weighted with from twelve to 
fourteen pounds of lead ; a cast net of any other descrip- 
tion will prove useless, and had better remain in the 
North to decorate the window of some fishing tackle 
store. 

Punta Rassa has been very appropriately termed the 
''jumping off place of all creation." At this point the 
tourist will find two large wooden buildings and some 
palmetto huts, and a large and substantial dock. The 
first building is a large structure resembling a warehouse, 
and is the residence of two operators in charge of the 
Inter- Colonial Ocean Telegraph wires and station at this 



METEOROLOGY. 283 

point ; and also of two observers representing " Old 
Prob." North of the telegraph building is a large 
wooden structure belonging to Captain Henry, and used, 
as a post-office and lodging quarters for the employees of 
Capt. H., and those engaged in shipping cattle. The 
palmetto huts belong to a gentleman who has an exten- 
sive fishery at this point. This is the point where cattle 
are shipped from southern Florida to Key West and 
Cuba. The operators and observers at this point 
treated us with great courtesy and attention, and we are 
prompted to thus publicly express our thanks. 

Finding nothing to interest us at this very uninter- 
esting point, we left, on the morning of the 26th, for the 
Caloosahatchie river, and found the entrance a difficult 
priece of navigation. By advice we took the boat channel, 
and were favored with a head wind and ebb tide ; a nar- 
row, crooked channel, bounded and obstructed by mud 
flats and coon oyster bars. After one hour's beating we 
made one thousand feet, and surmounted the difficulties 
incident to the navigation. We ultimately reached the 
widest part of the river, and found it to be a grand 
stream, nearly equalling in size the St. Johns between 
Jacksonville and Orange Mills. We found the shores 
high, and clothed with pine timber of fair quality as far 
up as Fort Myers. At 6.30 we moored to the dock at 
the last-named place — 25 miles distant from Punta Rassa. 
This was an important military post during the first and 
second Indian wars. At the termination of the late 
unpleasantness some malicious persons destroyed by fire 
all the buildings but one. At the present time the 
place contains a population of about 100 persons, nearly 
all of whom are engaged in cattle raising or herding in 
south-west Florida. We found the residents courteous 
and hospitable, and ready to oblige us in any way. 



284 



tiOUTH-WEST FLOKIDA. 



As an evidence of the tropical character of the 
climate at this point I need but refer to the fact that 
the wanderer will find eleven cocoanut trees growing 
on the margin of the river and producing fruit. We 
see no reason why tropical fruits and plants should not 
be profitably cultivated on the banks of the Caloosahat- 
chie. If we were young and disposed to make ourselves 
a home in a new country, we would without hesitation 
locate on the banks of this stream. The winters are 
pleasant, and the summers not uncomfortably warm. 
Northern people entertain the opinion that *^the range 
of the thermometer in southern Florida must be much 
higher than in the North ! " but this is a mistake. To 
illustrate this position I select at random a few statistics 
from Blodgctt's excellent and reliable work on Climatol- 
ogy ; and for the purpose of comparison again refer to 
observations at Punta Rassa for the year 1874 — thereby 
illustrating the highest and lowest thermometric range : 

Lowest Thermometric Range. 



Place. 


Date. 


Ja 


n. 


Feb. 


March. 


April. 


May. 


June. 






o 


o 





„ 


o 


o 








o 


o 





New York City.... 


1822 


60 


1 


68 


10 


76 


22 


84 


24 


84 


34 


98 58 


Philadelphia 


1856 


40 


5 


46 


2 


48 


5 


80 


24 


87 


40 


98 48 


Washington, D. C. 


1855 


58 


17 


48 


3 


65 


16 


92 


23 


86 


35 


15 38 


St. Louis, Mo 


1855 


65 


3 


67 


5 


67 


14 


92 


32 


93 


38 


95 50 


Cincinnati, Ohio.. 


1854 


10 


5 


68 


16 


80 


22 


91 


28 


92 


42 


94 45 


Fort Snelling, Min 


1854 


45 


36 


45 


20 


58 


4 


85 


9 


84 


32 


93 41 


Key West, Fla.... 


1831 


82 


50 


82 


57 


89 


66 


36 


62 


88 


70 


87 72 


Key West, Fla.... 


1838 


79 


62 


80 


54 


81 


62 


82 


63 


85 


64 


87 73 


Key West, Fla.... 


1854 


80 


68 


81 


64 


84 


68 


83 


60 


60 


73 


90 78 


Punta Rassa, Fla.. 


1874 


79 


42 


81 


50 


85 


55 


87 


55 


90 


59 


91 70 



METEOROLOGY 



285 



Highest Thermometric Range. 



Place. 


Date. 


July. 


Aug. 


Sept. 


Oct. 


Nov. 


Dec. 






o o 


o 


o 





o 





o 


o 


o 


o 


New York City . . . 


1822 


100 62 


94 


60 


89 


50 


86 


37 


71 


33 


63 13 


Philadelphia 


1856 


98 64 


90 


53 


90 


44 


78 


35 


75 


31 


61 9 


Washington, D. C. 


1855 


95 52 


90 


47 


90 


42 


72 


25 


72 


24 


63 13 


St. Louis, Mo 


1855 


96 60 


91 


65 


90 


47 


81 


28 


71 


24 


65 4 


Cincinnati, Ohio.. 


1854 


95 64 


96 


58 


99 


46 


83 


35 


65 


24 


58 15 


Fort Snelling, Min 


1854 


93 55 


95 


50 


88 


39 


74 


28 


60 


11 


45 8 


Key West, Fla.... 


1831 


88 78 


87 


75 


89 


77 


81 


71 


82 


69 


80 60 


Key West, Fla 


1838 


88 73 


88 


75 


88 


75 


87 


71 


83 


66 


82 54 


Key West, Fla 


1854 


89 78 


89 


78 


88 


77 


84 


72 


83 


58 


80 54 


Punta Rassa, Fla. 


1874 


91 70 


91 


71 


91 


67 


85 


64 


82 


50 


80 49 



Land speculators residing at Bay Biscayne, who have 
axes to grind, and those who have visited the Indian 
river country, go into ecstasies over the superiority of 
the climate of the southern Atlantic coast, and spread 
their opinions broadcast over the land. Brinton, in his 
excellent work on ^'Florida and the South," remarks: 
*' The highest winter temperature observed anywhere on 
the mainland of the United States was at Fort Dallas on 
the Miami river, and at New Smyrna, some miles north 
of it, both on the east coast of Florida. Furthermore, 
their range is less than anywhere else. During four 
years that the army officers watched the thermometer at 
Fort Dallas, the highest point reached by the mercury 
was ninety-five degrees, the lowest thirty-five degrees ; 
a range therefore of sixty degrees in four years." The 
highest range of the thermometer for the last three years 



286 SOUTH-WEST FLORIDA. 

at Punta Rassa was ninety-five, and the lowest forty, a 
range therefore of but fifty-five degrees. From these 
data we are inclined to believe that the climate of the 
south-west coast will favorably compare with that of the 
Miami and Indian river sections. 

In southern Florida, calm, warm, and sweltering 
nights, during the summer months, are unknown, but on 
the contrary a refreshing breeze exists, and blankets be- 
come almost a necessity. During the nights of July 
and August, when northern people are suffering from a 
calm and sultry atmosphere and praying for a refreshing 
breeze to enable them to sleep ! the residents of south- 
ern Florida sleep soundly, and are refreshed by cooling 
and invigorating zephyrs wafted from old mother ocean. 

During the winter months in southern Florida rains 
are unfrequent, but in summer, when vegetation is active, 
moisture demanded, and frequent rain storms desirable 
and required to favor vegetable growth and cool the at- 
mosphere, such rains are of almost daily occurrence. 
From the time we left Sarasota Bay until we reached 
Clear Water Harbor on our return, we did not see a 
drop of rain. For the purpose of rendering our state- 
ments more clear and authoritative, we shall quote, from 
Blodgett's Climatology, some data showing the mean 
annual precipitation of rain and melted snow at a few 
points in the United States : 



METEOKOLOGY. 



287 



Mean Annual Precipitation of Rain and Melted Snow. 





STATIONS. 


Month. 


Fort Brooke, 
Florida.* 


Fort Meyers, 
Florida.! 


Charleston. 


Philadelphia. 


January. . . 


2.20 


3.90 


2.33 


3.00 


February... 


3.01 


2.16 


3.39 


2.94 


March 


3.37 


4.60 


3.02 


3.43 


April 


1.95 


3.14 


1.72 


3.64 


May 


3.24 


3.33 


3.66 


3.90 


June 


7.04 


14.59 


5.00 


3.51 


July 


11.10 


8.45 


6.15 


4.22 


August 


10.10 


8.51 


7.53 


4.67 


September. 


6.23 


9.45 


6.34 


3.53 


October, . . . 


2.40 


1.37 


3.04 


3.18 


November. 


2.00 


0.96 


2.23 


3.36 


December.. 


2.83 


2.27 


3.68 


4.03 


Spring 


8.56 


11.07 


8.60 


10.97 


Summer. . . 


28.24 


31.61 


18.08 


12.45 


Autumn . . . 


10.63 


11.90 


11.61 


10.07 


Winter. . . . 


8.04 


8.33 


9.40 


10.06 


Year 


55.47 


62.91 


48.29 


45. -6 



* Fort Brooke is at Tampa Bay, Florida. 

t Fort Meyers is ou the Caloosahatchie River, Florida. 



288 SOUTH-WEST FLOEIDA. 

To tnose contemplating a charge of location, more 
especially if they intend engaging in the cultivation of 
the soil, we would urge the advisability of considering cli- 
matic conditions, as tending to health, longevity, bodily 
comforts, and pecuniary results. We often hear the 
objection urged that the climate of Florida is enervating 
and debilitating, and that people settling there become 
lazy as a sequence of climatic conditions. We admit 
that an excessively high thermometric range associated 
with a close moist atmosphere, will relax and debilitate 
the human system, but these conditions do not exist in 
south-west Florida ; and the emigrant will not become 
indolent unless he is constitutionally lazy. The resi- 
dents of the South are often referred to as wanting 
energy and perseverance ; but when such references are 
made we must remember that, during the reign of King 
Cotton, to labor was unfashionable, and that slaves were 
plenty and ever ready to minister to the wants of the 
white, either adult or child. Cynics, who are ever ready 
to assail the South and Southerners, must remember 
that the male portion of our Northern population have 
been educated to some calling in early life — that labor 
and activity have become a second nature with them. 
Education has more to do with active habits than climate. 
We often hear ungenerous and censorious people refer to 
the "indolent nature of the Southern people," but if 
they bring into review the numbers engaged on the Con- 
federate side during the late unpleasantness, and the 
results attained by a comparatively small number of half- 
starved and half-armed men, they will be forced to con- 
fess that laziness and indolence did not characterize the 
Confederate armies from '61 to '65. In the South to-day 
the female portion of the population have accepted the 



METEOROLOGT. 289 

situation, placed their shoulders to the wheel, and indus- 
try and thrift are prominent. Cynical people, who wish 
to find indolence, laziness, and false pride among the 
female sex, need not extend their observations any further 
than the females of American birth in the Northern 
States — a portion of the world where industry and labor 
are considered disgraceful by a majority of those who 
were intended by a wise and beneficent Creator to 
become helpmates of man. In our many wanderings in 
the Southern States we have met with numerous Northern 
people wlio, after years of residence in the South were 
ass active, industrious, and enterprising as before they 
left a more inhospitable climate. I am prompted to 
write as I, do in consequence of having daily and hourly 
listened to the unkind, unjust, and censorious criticisms 
of Northerners — persons who should extend the hand of 
sympathy and speak words of kindness to a suffering and 
struggling people. I am a Northerner, but must confess 
that I am disgusted with the want of Christian charity 
that characterizes many bigoted people of my section : 
^^ Let us have peace," and to bring about this halcyon 
state let us treat the Southern people as we would be 
treated — extend to them the hand of brotherhood, and 
use words of sympathy and kindness, instead of censure 
and words of reproach and condemnation. To those 
who intend visiting the South as tourists or sportsmen I 
would say, ^' Be generous, be kind, be honest, and a * true 
Southern welcome ' and unbounded hospitality will greet 
you everywhere, from the mansion to the palmetto hut." 
In our Northern States we have thousands of persons 
who are suffering from rheumatic, pulmonary, and 
chronic diseases, whose health would be improved and 
lives prolonged, if they could be induced to settle in the 



200 SOUTH-WEST FLORIDA. 

genial climate of Florida. Independent of benefiting 
themselves, they would advance the interests of the ten- 
der branches clinging around the parent stem. 

The old Romans nsed this pregnant expression : 
J/iinn'cus senilihus liyems — ^* Winter, the foe of the 
aged." Modem research proves its correctness. An 
eminent statistician, calculating from nearly 55,000 cases 
over GO years of age, discovered the startling fact that 
the deaths in January were within a fraction twice as 
many as in July. Such a statement reminds us of the 
significant expression of another distinguished observer, 
who had closely studied the relation of mortality and 
temperature, and wrote : " Waves of heat are waves of 
life ; and waves of cold are waves of death." 

I am fully prepared to admit that some localities in 
the State are veiy unhealthy, and that malarious diseases 
occur to a great extent in certain portions of the State ; 
but I likewise contend that certain sections of the State 
cannot be equalled by any portion of the world for 
healthfulness ; and some of the latter localities will be 
found on the south-west coast. 

Army returns are generally the most reliable, and 
exceedingly important when we came to estimate the 
sanitary advantages of any given section. During the 
Florida war the soldiers were exposed at all seasons in 
various portions of the State, and only those who have 
visited the peninsula can form any idea of how terribly 
arduous must be campaigning through the swamps and 
everglades of the State. Yet, according to the army 
medical statistics, the yearly mortality from diseases in 
the army there, was only 26 per 1,000 ; and the average 
of tlie army elsewhere was 35 per 1,000 ; wliile in Texas 
it rose to 50, and on the lower. Mississippi to 44 per 1,000. 



PUNTA RASSA TO CALOOSAHATCHIE. 291 



5. — PuxTA Rassa to Oaloosahatchie. 

En" route we were repeatedly assured that we need 
not encumber our boat with a large stock of provisions, 
as a fresh supply could be purchased at old Lanier's 
store, at Fort Meyers. Early the next morning after our 
arrival I visited the store for the purpose of adding to 
our stock of hard tack, but found a total absence of the 
staff of life. Fearful that our supply of sugar would 
give out, I purchased four pounds, for which I paid one 
dollar. One of the residents kindly spared me one 
bushel of potatoes, and I paid therefor one dollar. 

At this point I met Dr. McCallam, formerly of South 
Carolina, but who has settled thirty-five miles farther 
up the river. This gentleman informed me that he had 
half a barrel of flour at his camp, and if I would accept a 
portion, it was at my disposal when I reached his palmetto 
hut. Here was an awkward position — a limited supply 
of bread-stuff to carry us through a long journey, and 
none to be obtained nearer than Manatee ; but we could 
not consent to impose on the Doctor, and leave him short 
of flour, so we concluded to go for the sweet potatoes, 
and hurry over our route. 

To any one attempting a trip to Charlotte Harbor, or 
up the river, I w^ould say. Carry, or have transported by 
the steamer Emilie to Puiita Rassa, a sufficient supply of 
provisions for the return trip. They can be stored at 
the telegraph station until wanted. Uncle Sam has 
not supplied the residents above Punta Rassa with mail 
facilities, and advantage is taken of every opportunity 
to forward letters and papers to persons residing on the 
river. Dr. McCallam requested us to take charge of 



292 SOUTH-WEST FLORIDA. 

the letters and papers addressed to persons at or near 
his settlement, and we of course consented. 

Anxious to reach our objective point, we left the fort 
at eight a. m. Commencing three miles above the fort, 
for a distance of nearly three miles the navigation is 
rendered difficult by islands and mud banks. At the 
lower, or west end, of the first island an extensive mud 
bank will be found, and the channel will be discovered on 
its north side, near the northern bank of the river. Soon 
after entering the channel several stakes will be noticed 
on the port side, and one on the starboard side of the 
channel. Opposite the upper end, and to the north of the 
first island, a small circular one will be discovered, which 
must be left to starboard. The next two islands must be 
kept to port, when a projecting point, studded, with tall 
cabbage palmettoes, will be sighted on the northern bank 
of the river. Beyond this point another island will be 
observed, which must be left on the port side. If atten- 
tion is paid to these directions, and the shallow water on 
either hand of the channel looked for, no great difficulty 
will be experienced in navigating this troublesome local- 
ity. Above the upper island, navigation is easy to Fort 
Thompson. The river in the neighborhood of the upper 
islands is famous for its well-developed alligators. We 
'devoted about an hour to their destruction, and killed 
eight — the smallest of which measured over ten feet. 
Above the islands the river narrows to a few hundred 
feet, and somewhat resembles the St. Johns above the 
Devil's Elbow. To within about Uvo miles of the tele- 
graph station the banks are low, and are covered with 
mtmgrove bushes, cabbage palmetto, and live-oak trees, 
with an undergrowth of ferns, some of the fronds meas- 
uring eight feet in length. If the tourist is a disciple of 



PUKTA RASSA TO CALOOSAHATCHIE. 293 

old Isaac we would advise him to drop a strongly geared 
spinner overboard after leaving the islands, for if disposed 
he can have his time fnlly occupied in landing cavalli 
ranging from two to twenty pounds. During our ascent 
of this stream we daily and hourly regretted the absence 
of a Grains (fishing spear), for we felt tempted to capture 
some of the large pompano that exist in countless num- 
bers in this stream. We have seen a dozen of these 
huge fellows " breaking water " at once within fifty 
yards of the boat, but as they refused a bait their cap- 
ture was impossible. 

Late in the afternoon we reached the Caloosa- 
hatchie telegraph station, forty miles from Punta Eassa. 
A-t this point the line crosses the river, and the wanderer 
can communicate with home for the remarkably low 
price of two hundred and fifty cents. We received more 
than a hearty welcome from the gentlemanly operator in 
charge. Disposed to keep our teeth moving, we pur- 
chased from this gentleman two bushels of excellent 
sweet potatoes. Here we met a son of old Ireland, and 
were favored with a true Hibernian welcome, and an 
invitation to visit his residence and see the *' ould woman 
and the bairns." He stated that he had two acres of 
superior sugar-cane under cultivation, and that he was 
about to make his first attempt at the manufacture of 
sugar. He assured us that if we would favor him with 
a visit he would present us with stalks of sugar-cane 
fourteen feet long. Ascertaining that his residence was 
two miles distant, we were forced to decline. The pop- 
ulation of the locality consists of three families, includ- 
ing that of the operator and our Irish friend. Irishmen 
are to be found everywhere, and are ever ready to ex- 
tend the hand of welcome to the wanderer. We deeply 



294 80UTH-WE8T FLORIDA. 

regretted that we could not visit oiirnew-made acquaint- 
ance and discuss at his ingie-side the merits of the Cove 
of Cork and the demerits of the Quid Head of Kinsale ; 
but the bareness (not of our exchequer) of our bread 
box stimulated us to push ahead. After supper, we 
fried a supply of sweet potatoes for the next day, and 
left our water keg with the operator. At this point the 
water was almost fresh, and we deemed it best to make 
room in our crowded boat. 

Dr. McCallam's clearing being twenty miles farther 
up the river, we made an early start the next morning 
after our arrival. During the day we amused ourselves 
beating and rowing up the tortuous channel. Above 
the Caloosahatchie telegraph station the banks of the 
river become higher, and are studded with live-oaks and 
majestic palms. For miles in many places the banks 
are nearly perpendicular, and range from ten to eighteen 
feet high. On each bank, rich high hammocks extend 
back from the river for a distance of one-quarter to one- 
half a mile. Back of the hammocks rich pine land will, 
be found, and beyond this the open prairie country, 
which will be described at some future time. Above the 
telegraph station the intending emigrant will find an 
admirable climate, excellent health, superior land, a 
noble river, and everything to induce a man to settle. 
The day is not far distant when this river will be bounded 
with happy homes, orange groves, farm and tropical 
productions, and the evidences of education, Christianity 
and civilization. We have at various times visited 
almost every portion of Florida, from the Appalachicola 
to the Atlantic, and from the Gulf to the northern 
boundary of the State, and we are forced to give this 
section our unqualified recommendation as the most 



PUliTTA RASSA TO CALOOSAHATCHIE. 295 

desirable place for the pioneer. T admit that the region 
is wild and unfrequented, but the time is near when the 
river will be navigated by steamers, and residences, 
sciiool houses, and ch arches vv'ill arise as if by magic. 

Xidit overtook us, and as we were anxious to reach 
Dr. McCallam's residence we furled our sail and resorted 
to an ashen breeze. We had rowxd but a short distance 
when we heard the welcome bark of a dog, and soon 
after, the pleasant sound of human voices. We hailed, 
and were met at the landing by five human beings. The 
welcome we received in this wild spot will long be remem- 
bered. We found one gentleman from Xew^ York, who 
had settled on a section next to that of Dr. McCaliam's, 
and four from Rahway, New Jersey, two miles above, at 
Camellia Point. We announced the fact that w^e carried 
the mail, and the joyous shouts that arose on that 
river wdien the settlers received letters and newspapers 
from home, beggars all description. Aware of the fact that 
Dr. McCallam and his companion in this wilderness had 
but a limited supply of the necessaries of life, we posi- 
tively declined a pressing invitation to stop and partake 
of the hospitalities of his backwoods home. As soon as 
w^e announced our intention of proceeding to the Jersey 
settlement, the Jerseymen pocketed letters and papers 
and followed us to the river bank. They took our boat in 
tow, and while rowing and paddling they yelled and 
laughed as joyous men never laughed and yelled before. 
After proceeding two miles we reached their camp, and 
landed. We found them comfortably settled in -a pal- 
metto hut, and apparently more than pleased with their 
new home. We started early the next morning, and 
were escorted for several miles by our new friends. It 
is a gratification to the wanderer to meet with a wel- 



290 SOUTH-WEST FLOKIDA. 

come in the \yilclei'ness, and annoying to refuse hos- 
pitality when kindly and courteously tendered. 

During the course of the forenoon we sighted a 
" 'gator " about seven feet long, reclining on a grassy bank 
enjoying the sunshine. I handed Harry my Winchester, 
and requested him to shoot. He did so, and the 'gator 
quivered and dropped his head. Harry expressed satis- 
faction at the result of his maiden shot, and wondered 
what effect had been produced by the ball. I suggested 
that we should land and examine the critter. We did 
so, and Harry seized the brute by the tail and attempted 
to turn him over. Like a flash the dead 'gator doubled on 
himself, and endeavored to seize him by the hand. As a 
result, the pair stepped into the river, and the celerity 
with which Harry scrambled up the bank will never be 
forgotten by those who witnessed it. Before the ugly 
customer could get away, I gave him a pill in his brain, 
and he turned 'his paws heavenward. Thus ended the 
only 'gator scrape worthy of record. 

As we proceeded, the river gradually narrowed, and 
above the former site of Fort Donaud the overhanging 
live-oaks gave us some trouble. Still farther up the river, 
we met with shallows and annoying sand-bars and drift 
logs. Having rowed all day, we found ourselves tired at 
five P. M., and came to an anchor. 



6. — Up the Caloosahatchib. 

The annual rain-fall of South-west Florida is about 
sixty-five inches, but during the year 1874 the amount 
was but a fraction over thirty-one inches. In conse- 



UP THE CALOOSAHATCHIE, 297 

quence, the river (Caloosahatchie) was nearly two feet 
lower than ever before known. ^ Under ordinary con- 
ditions the river can be navigated to the rapids by a 
stern-wheeler with a light draught of water. Above the 
Caloosahatchie telegraph station the wanderer can at 
all times fill his frying-pan with luscious trout (bass). 
Before leaving Philadelphia, Shipley & Son made for us 
an eighteen-foot bamboo rod, which we found admirably 
adapted to fishing in the streams visited. With such a 
rod, and a few feet of line, the piscator can fish around 
the tops, fallen logs, and lily-pads, without any danger 
of fouling his bob or spinner. 

As we were anxious to reach the rapids at Fort 
Thompson, the rising sun found us moving. Harry was 
aft, using the setting pole, and Frank and I manufac- 
tured an ashen breeze. Then we ascended the tortuous 
channel until night. Soon after camping we fancied 
that we heard a dog bark, and having seen no chasing, 
or evidence of settlement after leaving hospitable 
** Jerseydom," we were anxious to obtain information 
regarding our whereabouts. To attract attention, I dis- 
charged my gun, and Frank followed with his revolver. 
We listened, but no answer was returned. Early next 
morning my attention was attracted by the cracking of 
brush, and on looking shoreward, I noticed a white man 
peeping through the bushes. I hailed him, and on 
inquiry ascertained that his name was Cross, and that 
he had recently settled on a point a short distance above. 
He stated that he had heard the report of our fire-arms, 
but fancied '^ that it was the accursed Indians shooting, 
and in consequence he had not slept during the night." 
He expressed it as his opinion " that they would rise, 
and that another Indian war was in prospect." He 
13* 



298 SOUTH-WEST FLORIDA. 

favored ns with his views of the " pesky critters," and 
assured us that they were a hizy, dirty, treacherous, and 
thieving lot, and that the whole race should be extermi- 
nated." Our visitor informed us that the Indian camp 
at Fort Thompson was distant three miles by land, and 
nine by the course of the river. We bade our friend 
good-by, and applied our muscles to oars and setting 
pole. He preceded us by land, and unwisely informed 
the Indians that some white men were coming up the 
river, armed Avith sixteen-shooting guns, with the inten- 
tion of exterminating all the Indians about Lake Okee- 
chobee. At 9 A. M. we grounded the bow of the boat 
Spray on the northern bank of the river below the 
falls. A few minutes afterward we discovered four 
Indians approaching, armed with rifles and long butcher 
knives. From their manner we fancied that there was 
a ^' screw loose in their celestial machinery." As they 
neared the boat I landed and shook hands with all. To 
my surprise they manifested sullenness and an indispo- 
sition to be friendly or communicative. Soon after, a 
squaw, and several young feminine representatives of 
poor Lo, approached, to whom I presented ear-rings, 
beads, and breast-pins, costing II per half-dozen sets. 
These presents exerted a happy influence, and the 
masculine Los expressed a wish to inspect our fire-arms. 
We exhibited our breech-loading arms and ammunition, 
which seemed to surprise them. All seemed to be new 
to them, and they expressed their surprise by remarking 
*^ Indian's rifles holywagus" (no good). 

An examination of Drew's and Colton's maps will 
show a large lake existing at Fort Thompson, and another 
some miles east, named Hickpockee. These bodies of 
water only exist in the imagination of map-makers. As 



UP THE CALOOSAHATCHIE. 290 

far as South-west Florida is concerned, maps are to a 
great extent unreliable, and calculated to mislead tourists. 
Fort Thompson was a large and important station 
during the Indian wars, but at present only a few de- 
cayed stubs exist to indicate where a stockade once pro- 
tected scores of valiant men. Surrounding the falls, a 
rich prairie of 500 acres exists, covered with a luxurious 
growth of succulent and nutritious grasses — the site of 
a lake, according to the unreliable map-makers. We 
instituted many inquiries of Indians, settlers, and cattle 
drivers regarding Lake Hickpockee, but all scouted the 
idea of its existence. On the north side of the river, 
and about 600 feet therefrom, a grove of huge live-oaks 
exist, under whose protecting branches the Indians en- 
camp during the winter months, when on their annual 
hunt. The region is underlaid with a horizontal stratum 
of hard limestone rock, from twelve to eighteen inches 
thick, and beneath this a softer stratum containing an 
immense number of shells. The river has worn a pas- 
sage through the hard superficial layer of rock at this 
point, forming the rapids or falls of the Caloosahatchie 
river. We found the water to fall about five feet in 
two hundred. The channel at the rapids is about fifteen 
feet wide, and within a few inches of the surface we 
discovered numerous sharp-pointed rocks, over which 
we found it impossible to drag the Spray to the deep 
and smooth waters above. We noticed an Indian dug- 
out, above the rapids, and at once visited Lo's camp to 
make arrangements for an exploration of the river above 
the falls. By signs and words we communicated our 
wishes, but were informed that " canoe belonged to med-. 
icine man ; he gone Big Cypress. Indian no use him 
canoe." Here was an awkward position, and Harry an(i 



300 SOUTH-WEST FLORIDA. 

I resolved on an exploration on foot. We started on 

the south bank of the river, but after floundering for a 
mile and a half through mud, water, cane-brakes, and 
saw-grass, we were forced to retreat. On my return I 
took my Shipley rod and went for a mess of fish. In a 
few minutes I landed two cavalli averaging four pounds, 
and five trout from one to seven pounds. In the after- 
noon we were gratified at seeing the face of a white man, 
and found that our visitor was named Carlton, who 
resided about two miles to the north of the fort. We 
expressed a wish to haul our boat around the rapids on 
skids and rollers, and Mr. Carlton kindly volunteered 
his assistance, and assured us that he would induce two 
more recent settlers to aid us. During the latter part 
of the afternoon we took a survey of the difficulties to 
be encountered, and provided skids, etc., to transport 
our boat around the rapids. 

In the evening, one of the Indians, named Jimmy, 
visited us, and we eventually arranged with him to take 
the medicine man's canoe and paddle us up the river. 
Early on the morning of January 1st, in company with 
Harry and Indian Jimmy, I commenced an examination 
of the river above the falls. We had not proceeded over 
a quarter of a mile before we found a channel averaging 
sixty feet wide and six in depth. To say that it swarmed 
with numerous species of fish would not do justice to 
tiiis stream. On the shores large alligators occupied the 
banks, and ducks, coots, yellow-legged snipe, curlews, 
cranes, herons, water turkeys, and other birds existed in 
countless numbers. My imagination painted a channel 
leading into the Lake Okeechobee, and that I should be 
favored Avith a view of this body of water. But disap- 
pointment was ahead. We had barely proceeded three 



UP THE CAL003AHATCHIE. 301 

miles when we found the channel to end in a brotid 
expanse of saw-grass. A careful examination revealed 
about two inches of water and three of tenacious black 
mud overlying the horizontal layer of limestone rock. 
Pocketing our disappointment, we turned the bow of the 
canoe campward. From our own observations, and from 
such information as I could collect from cattle-raisers, 
herdsmen, and Indians, I am convinced that my pre- 
conceived opinions are correct — that the Caloosahatchie 
river is the main outlet of Lake Okeechobee. I am sat- 
isfied that the lake is not more than eight miles in an 
easterly direction from Fort Thompson, and that it 
can be reached by a light flat-bottomed boat at an ordi- 
nary stage of water. The Indians would not explain 
how the medicine man had transported his canoe from 
the lake to the fort ; but as no other route exists, he 
must have brought it by the course of the river before 
the water became as low as we found it. 

On our return, we found Mr. Carlton and his two 
friends ready to assist us in hauling our boat around the 
rapids ; but as we had explored the river, we politely 
declined accepting their kind assistance. Upon inquir}^, 
I found that Mr. Carlton had a wagon and a team of 
bullocks, and my first idea was to transport the Spray 
to Fisli Eating creek, a distance of fourteen miles, 
descend the creek, circumnavigate the lake, ascend the 
Kissimmee, and return via the St. Johns river to Jack- 
sonville. Upon questioning Mr. C, I found that his 
wagon was not broad enough for the Spray, and that 
it would be necessary to construct a new pair of axletrees 
for the purpose. The delay attending this arrangement, 
and our short stock of provisions, induced us to abandon 
it. Mr. Carlton had a pow-wow with the Indians, and 



302 SOUTH-WEST FLORIDA. 

ascertained that they had three canoes at Old Fort 
Centre, on Fisli Eating creek. Mr. C. finally induced 
Billy Osceola to accompany us, and we arranged to start 
the next morning for the lake. Mr. 0. returned home 
to prepare for the journey, and we amused ourselves by 
visiting the Indian camp. One peculiarity of the femi- 
nine Lo is a love for beads, and instead of decorating her- 
self Avith panniers, laces, furbelows, and false hair, she 
goes in for glass. After some persuasion, and amid 
peals of laughter, we induced a squaw of sweet sixteen 
to divest herself of her neck ornaments. When the 
operation was completed we had suspended on our arm 
fort3^-six strings of large glass beads, weighing, at the 
lowest estimate, ten pounds. The only article of dress 
worn by the juvenile representatives of Eve was a few 
strings of beads. The dress of masculine Lo was, to 
use a novelistic expression, picturesque and romantic in 
the extreme. Their head-dress consists of from four to 
five small woollen shawls, costing two dollars and a half 
apiece. To arrange this capital encumbrance, Lo folds 
a shawl four inches wide, places the initial end on the 
forehead, winds the folded shawl tightly around the head, 
and tucks the outer end under the first coil. This pro- 
cedure is followed with each shawl until the horizontal 
and ridiculous-looking structure is completed. They all 
wear calico shirts, with gray vests ; and these garments, 
with breech cloths, completed the dress of our new 
acquaintances. 

Early next morning found us under way for Lake 
Okeechobee, in company with Mr. Carlton and Billy 
Osceola. We followed an old wagon trail leading to Old 
Fort Centre, on Fisk Eating creek. This trail had been 
made during the Indian wars, since which time it has 






UP THE CALOOSAHATCHIE. 303 

been followed by settlers, cattle- raisers, and cattle^ Mid- 
day found us near the dry bed of a summer water-course, 
wliere we camped for dinner. I took a spade and dug a 
shallow hole, from which we obtained water for coffee. 
After eating, I seated myself in the centre of the trail to 
enjoy my old pipe. Frank laid himself down a few feet 
from me, and almost instantly jumped up, with an exclam- 
ation. His fright w^as easily accounted for, for we heard 
the warning rattle of the death-dealing snake, within 
reach of whose fangs he had reclined. He seized his 
rifle and fired, but excitement spoiled his aim ; he then 
used his revolver, and with the last chamber wounded 
his snakeship. In the interim one of the party pro- 
vided himself with a stick, and soon finished the rat- 
tler. Frank claimed the rattles, which, upon removal, 
numbered eight and a button. 

After our encounter with the snake we hitched up 
the oxen and started for the lake. Night found us four 
miles from the large mound at Old Fort Centre. Here 
we camped, and were favored with the bellowing of an 
ancient alligator in an adjoining swamp. Early next 
morning found us follow^ing the trail, and at 8 a. m. we 
reached Old Fort Centre. Leaving Mr. Carlton to take 
care of the bullocks, w^e soon found an Indian canoe and 
started for the lake, distant, according to the statement 
of our guide, four miles. We forced our way through 
several extensive beds of tlie floating lettuce, and after 
poling and paddling for two miles, reached a continuous 
bed of this plant. We w^ere provided with two paddles 
and a pushing pole sixteen feet long. The banks of tlie 
creek were perpendicular, and the water from twelve to 
fourteen feet deep. In this stream the lettuce was 
larger and more luxuriant than any we had ever seen in 



304 SOUTH-WEST FLORIDA. 

the state. The roots were very long and perfectly 
matted, and we endeavored to force a passage through 
the obstruction, but might as well have tried to paddle 
or pole our canoe through one of the New York docks. 
For many years I had looked forward with pleasure to the 
day when I should visit Okeechobee, and nothing but 
disappointment loomed up before me. To force a pas- 
sage for several miles through the lettuce we found to 
be impossible, and after considering the matter I re- 
solved to reach the lake by wading and wallowing 
through the water, mud, and saw-grass of the swamps 
between me and the lake, and accordingly hauled the 
canoe ashore. 

Had I been aware of the difficulties to be encoun- 
tered, I have reason to believe that I could have sur- 
mounted them, and reached the lake by the course of 
the creek. If I should again visit Fish Eating creek I 
would provide myself with two hooked sticks about 
twelve feet long. If one man was stationed on each 
side of the canoe, say ten feet from the stern, and the 
two to hook into the lettuce on each side of the stern, 
and make traction toward the stern, avc are convinced 
that such a manoeuvre would make a passage for a canoe 
and the force applied would propel her ahead. From 
our knowledge of the growth, and the difficulties to be 
encountered in forcing a passage through such an 
obstruction, we would advise tourists to test the mode 
suggested. 



VISIT TO LAKE OKEECHOBEE. 305 



7. — Visit to Lake Okeechobee. 

We left the canoe beached, or, more properly speak- 
ing, mudded, on the north side of Fish Eating creek, 
and steered a course for what we considered the bank 
of the lake. The walking we found excellent, although 
not equalling that of Broadway. Beginning at the 
surface we found one foot of water, and beneath the 
aqueous element fifteen inches of black, tenacious mud. 
Every motion of the legs was obstructed by lily-pads 
spatterdocks, lettuce, trailing vines, and fresh-water 
plants in endless variety. Above the water, saw-grass, 
reeds, and rushes seriously interfered with vision as well 
motion. Resolved upon reaching the lake, our grand 
objective point, we trudged on, and having proceeded 
about two miles reached a large floating island that had 
been drifted on the marsh during the hurricane of the 
preceding October. Frank seated himself on the 
island and vowed that he would ** proceed no farther.' 
When youth gave out and cried "peccavi," it was time 
for old fogydom to push ahead, so I laid a course for 
a small tree, on what appeared to have been a floating 
island, and after an unpleasant tramp of • two hundred 
yards I reached the oasis, and found growing upon it a 
swamp oalc fifteen feet in height. By signs and words I 
directed Billy Osceola to ascend the oak ; he did so, and 
shouted ''Okeechobee, Okeechobee." I claim no rela- 
tionship to the feline race, but the way I scrambled up 
that juvenile oak was a caution to the cat family. 
Reaching the upper branches, I was rewarded with a 
view of the mysterious lake, distant about six hundred 
feet. From the time of my first visit to the south coast 



306 SOUTH-WEST FLORIDA. 

of riorida,in 1874, 1 had been looking forward with pleas- 
ure to a period when I shoukl be favored with a view of 
the hike ; and here it was before me. My great desire 
was to navigate and thoroughly examine its various out- 
lets, and if possible discover a practicable boat route to tlie 
ocean ; but I was disappointed. At some future time, if 
we can find the congenial companions, we propose reach- 
ing the lake, via the Ochlawaha and Kissimmee rivers. In 
an ordinary stage of water we are convinced that a boat 
could be navigated through the marsh between the lake 
and the rapids on the Caloosahatchie. But to the 
uninitiated the great difficulty would be to determine at 
what particular point to leave the lake. 

About four hundred feet from the shore we noticed a 
very large cypress tree, which would prove a guide for 
persons searching for the mouth of Fish Eating creek. 
From wliat we could ascertain from the lay of the land 
(or, more properly speaking, swamp), and from the 
statements of Billy, the mouth of the creek is south of 
the large cypress half a mile. From our point of obser- 
vation the lake trended to the south, and we are con- 
vinced that in a direct line the shore of the lake is 
distant from Fort Thompson not over eight or nine 
miles. Having gratified our curiosity regai'ding the 
lake, and accomplished all we could, under the circum- 
stances, we started on the home stretch, and ultimately 
reached the canoe, tired and exhausted. We Avould 
most respectfully recommend a five-mile experience of 
such Avalking to Weston when he trains for one of his 
pedestrian feats. As regards ^^Al Fresco," he without 
the least hesitation asserts that he has had enough of 
Okeechobee swamp ex^Derience to last him a life- time. 
We have wandered in more than one section of the 



VISIT TO LAKE OKEECHOBEE. 307 

world, and have had some queer experiences, but our 
jaunt from the creek to the lake, and return, excelled 
anythmg in the past, and convinced us that hunting 
Seminole Indians must have been anything but an 
amusing and pleasant occupation. 

Eeaching the canoe, Billy paddled, and Frank and I 
amused ourselves ventilating the 'gators that exposed 
themselves on the banks of the creek. Arriving at Old 
Fort Centre, I visited the large Indian mound while Mr. 
Carlton hitched up our bovine friends. I found the 
mound to be four hundred feet long, one hundred and 
fifty wade, and about forty high. At a point where some 
former visitor had made a small excavation I scratched 
with a stick and found remains of human skeletons. In 
our opinion, this mound is worthy of being opened, and 
I trust that some future visitor will be amply provided 
with stores, so as to enable him to spend a few days in 
the locality and carefully examine it. With the excep- 
tion of one mound on the east bank of the Caloosahatchie 
river, this is the largest we have noticed in the south. 
Seating ourselves in our springless conveyance, we 
started for New Fort Centre, which we reached about 
dark. Feeling tired, I resolved upon having a good bed, 
and by the light of pine-wood fire gathered a large quan- 
tity of the Spanish moss (TiUanusia), hanging in luxu- 
riant festoons from every tree. After supper I carefully 
arranged my mossy couch and turned in. Old Somnus 
soon took possession of the man, and I have reason to 
believe that I was guilty of some responsible snoring 
until about midnight, when I was aroused by an unpleas- 
ant sensation of burning, smarting, and itching. For a 
few minutes I made the situation a practical study, and 
realized the fact that I had discovered something new to 



308 SOUTH-WEST FLORIDA. 

me under the sun. I soon ascertained that I was covered 
with insects. I went for the moss, threw it out of the 
wagon, and selected the softest board to finish my night's 
rest. I had on numerous occasions during my wander- 
ings suffered from the effects of seed and ordinary ticks, 
but here was something exceeding all my past experi- 
ences in bug operations. To sleep was impossible, so I 
devoted the remainder of the night to scratching. I have 
read of the patience of historic Job, but I have reason to 
believe that he never suffered from a visitation of Florida 
"red bugs." Upon inquiry, I was informed that my 
attentive and industrious visitors were called red bugs, 
and were only to be found on the Spanish moss in the 
southern portion of the State. Our earnest advice to 
future wanderers is to give mossy couches a wide berth. 

On our return to the boat we prepared a saturating 
solution of common salt, and with it sponged several 
times daily, and at the end of the second day dissolved 
our connection with Florida red bugs. We are at a loss 
to determine exactly what effect was produced on the 
bugs by the salt, but we discovered the fact, that wher- 
ever we had removed the skin by scratching, the effect of 
the solution was anything but pleasant. 

Starting before old Sol appeared above the eastern 
horizon, we reached our boats at four o'clock in the 
afternoon. South-west of the lake, nearly to the shore 
of Charlotte harbor, and from the Caloosahatchie river 
to Peas creek, a distance of sixty miles, the sportsman 
will find a beautiful prairie, clothed with luxuriant and 
nutritious grasses, different from those of the St. Johns 
and Atlantic sections. This vast expanse of hunting 
ground is dotted with "islands," that is to say, spots 
clothed with live-oaks and majestic palms. These 



VISIT TO LAKE OKEECHOBEE. 309 

islands vary from a few square rods to fifty acres, and 
here and there will be found small belts of pine timber, 
the islands and belts furnishing ample shelter for 
game. We were charmed with the country, and deeply 
regretted our inability to camp out and enjoy a few 
weeks' hunting in the neighborhood of Fish Eating 
creek. From our own experience, and the statements 
made by reliable parties, we have no hesitation in assert- 
ing that this section is unequalled by any portion of the 
United States, for deer hunting or turkey shooting. In 
crossing the prairie from New Fort Centre, large herds of 
deer were frequently visible on each side of the trail, but 
the effects of swamp journeying, and a night's exercise 
fighting i-ed bugs, prevented us from leaving the wagon 
and attempting to shoot a deer. Owing to the inequality of 
the surface, and the j^rotection afforded by the tall grass 
and patches of saw palmetto, deer can be apj^roached 
without difficulty. At the period of • our visit the 
Indians were on their annual hunt to Fort Thompson, 
and a large proportion of the deer had been driven to 
points a few miles distant. Since the removal of the 
Seminoles, deer have roamed and increased on the prairie 
undisturbed. As an evidence of the superiority of this 
section as a hunting ground, we need but cite the fact 
that the Indians residing on the eastern side of the lake, 
and in the Miami region, annually visit Fort Thompson 
for their winter's hunt. With the exception of the few 
annually destroyed in the neighborhood of Fort Thomp- 
son by poor Lo, deer roam undisturbed, the grasses are 
nutritious, climatic conditions favorable, and, as a con- 
sequence, the amount of deer in this section is fabulous. 
This locality is truly the hujiter's paradise, and must be 
visited to be appreciated. I have no hesitation in stating 



310 SOUTH-WEST FLORIDA. 

that tlie still hunter can kill from ten to twelve deer 
daily. If he desires variety, he will find numberless 
turkeys on the banks of the creek, or in the adjoin- 
ing islands ; or, if disposed to indulge in fishing, all that 
will be necessary is to use a bob, spinner, or fly, and he 
will soon tire of landing the largest and fattest trout in 
the State. 

If any one should contemplate a visit to this region 
we would recommend as a site for his camp a point on 
the creek ten or fifteen miles west of New Fort Centre. 
To reach this locality the sportsman can take steamer to 
Charleston, Savannah, or Fernandina, and railroad to 
Cedar Keys ; or steamer from New York to Key West. 
Punta Eassa can be reached from Cedar Keys or Key 
West by steamer Emilie, sailing weekly. From Punta 
Eassa sportsmen can ascend the river to Fort Thompson, 
or take a bullock dray from Fort Meyers. Mr. Carlton 
resides two milt^s north of Fort Thompson, and for 13 
per day will furnish a conveyance to the creek. But to 
find Mr. C.'s residence after reaching the fort would be 
the rub. If any person should desire his assistance, a 
fe*w simjile directions might prove valuable. Landing 
on the west side of the river below the rapids, a north- 
erly course must be kept, leaving the river to the right 
and the timber to the left. Two miles from the land- 
ing-place Mr. Carlton's residence will be noticed to the 
left, near some large pine timber. Mr. C. will be found 
to be a good guide — kind, sociable, attentive, and mod- 
erate in his charges ; in fact, a gentleman whom we can 
unhesitatingly recommend to the favorable notice of 
sportsmen. 

With regard to the Indians, we have only to state 
that, after the first few days we found them sociable and 



VISIT TO LAKE OKEECHOBEE. 311 

pleasant neighbors. The females are modest and retir- 
ing, and, from what we could learn, are remarkable for 
chastity. Those we met did not appear to have an 
appetite for intoxicating liquors, and with the exception 
of Johnny, a half-breed (part Indian and part negro), 
they seemed to be strictly honest. The Indians stated 
that Jimmy was '^ holywagus " (no good), and we arrived 
at the same conclusion. We missed a pocket knife, 
which we had reason to believe Jimmy approj^riated. 
Descending the river, we overtook Jimmy at one of his 
camps, and found one of our spinners attached to his 
fishing line. He assured us that he had found it ; 
but his statement was received cu7)i grano sails. To 
persons visiting Fort Thompson we can recommend Billy 
Osceola as a good and attentive guide, and, as far as our 
observation went, perfectly reliable. Curiosity appears 
to be a prominent trait of these Indians, and their desire 
to see and examine everything, at times proved annoy- 
ing. To escape their inquisitiveness we would anchor the 
boat in mid-channel, and they would seat themselves on 
the shore, and stoically wait for hours for us to get back 
with the boat. 

The Indians of Florida are so advanced in civilization 
as to shun politics, rings, and peculation, and are disposed 
to remain honest, and untainted by the intrigues of carpet- 
baggers. They are entitled to one representative in the 
State Legislature ; and this fact having been discovered 
by an aspiring carpet-bagger, he visited Spotted Tail and 
solicited his influence. Old Spotted Tail listened to his 
eloquent pleading, and rather abruptly ended the in- 
terview by exclaiming, *^ Indian no want politics ; go 
to h .» 



313 SOUTH-WEST FLORIDA. 



8. — In^dian Mouitds AiTD Can-als. 

We left Fort Thompson with reluctance, but our 
nearly-exhausted bread-box prompted us to reach Man- 
atee at an early day. We commenced the descent of 
the river, and resolved upon thinning out the 'gators. 
Before reaching Punta Rassa, we footed up our 'gator 
account, and found that Ave had settled the affairs 
of ninety-four on the Caloosahatchie, the best day's 
sport being thirty-six. We have done some little shoot- 
ing in our time ; but for excitement and amusement 
give preference to 'gator perforating, and can confidently 
recommend the Caloosahatchie to those who wish to 
engage in this description of sport. At this point I may 
remark, that we thoroughly tested the Winchester and 
Remington rifles ; and for penetration, convenience of 
loading, accuracy of shooting, and general usefulness, we 
are forced to give the decided preference to the former. 

Passing a bayou twenty miles below Fort Thompson, 
Harry noticed a woodcock, and we landed. In this re- 
tired and beautiful spot we started seven, the only ones 
we noticed during our wanderings. We have often 
thought that these birds have a taste for the beautiful 
in nature, for they are generally found where nature has 
been most lavish in her offerings. After leaving the 
Caloosahatchie telegraph station, and before reaching 
the islands above Fort Thompson, we towed our spinners 
astern, but soon tired of landing cavalli ranging from 
five to fifteen pounds. Reaching Punta Rassa, we 
steered across the Caloosa entrance, entered Matanzas 
Pass, and proceeded southward toward the Erastro and 
Corkscrew rivers. If time had permitted we would 



INDIANS' MOUi^DS AND CANALS. 313 

have ascended these streams and described an unknown, 
but, we have reason to believe, an interesting section. 
Eeluctantly we turned the prow of the Spray northward. 
En route we visited the northern end of Pine Island, 
situated three miles north of Useppi. Here we found a 
Yankee named Ham, who had resided there for twenty- 
four years. At the landing we found two luxuriant 
cocoa-nut trees in fruit, and back of the hut, roasting 
ears, garden vegetables, and several hundred lemon trees 
loaded down with their golden fruit. At this point will 
be found four of the largest mounds on the coast, and 
the archseologist will be pointed to something interesting 
and calculated to puzzle him. The island is three miles 
wide, and, with the exception of a few hundred feet on 
each side, is traversed by a canal forty feet wide and 
eight feet in depth. Mr. Ham assured me that a similar 
excavation existed on the main land, and could be 
traced in a direct line toward Okeechobee for a distance 
of fourteen miles. On the north side of Caloosahatchie 
river, near its source, a similar canal is found, and of 
about three miles in length. I was assured by a reliable 
party familiar with the locality, that a similar one ex- 
isted on one of the Thousand Islands. The question 
arises. Who excavated these canals, or for what purpose 
were they dug ? It is a well-known fact that the In- 
dians were too indolent to engage in such an under- 
taking. There cannot be a question regarding these 
excavations having been made by man, but why made, 
or by whom, is the question. An examination of the 
live-oak trees growing in and on the sides of the exca- 
vation negatives any argument that they could have been 
the work of the early Spaniards or the Seminoles. From 
our knowledge of the Indian tribes it is not probable 
14 



314 SOUTH-WEST FLORIDA. 

that these canals were dug by the Yamassees. We tliink 
that a thorough examination should he made of these 
ancient works by the Smithsonian authorities, as such 
an investigation might lead to interesting developments 
regarding the earlier races inhabiting the south-west 
portion of the peninsula. In addition to the canals 
referred to, the large Indian mounds on the ^outh-west 
coast deserve examination. Such an exploration would 
fall within the legitimate sphere of tlie institution re- 
ferred to, and the expense incurred would be trifling 
compared to probable results. During the trip, birds, 
fish, and murine and fresh-water algse could be collected^ 
and tlie institution benefited thereby. 

Leaving Pine Island, with its hospitable inhahitants, 
we made for Bird Key, one mile west of Useppi. This 
small island consists of about foi-ty acres, and is covered 
with large mangrove trees. At one time it boasted of 
inliabitants, for where we landed the shore had been 
carefully paved with large clam shells. It is the rookery, 
or roosting place, for the multitudes of birds that frequent 
Cliarlotte Harbor. On the island will be found pelicans, 
gannet, cormorants, water turkeys, cranes, and herons of 
all kinds, sizes, and descriptions. A person desirous of 
collecting ornithological specimens would find this a de- 
sirable locality. In the evening we amused ourselves by 
shooting white herons for their plumes, and the noise 
made by the birds after each discharge beggars all de- 
scription. We left Bird Key and adjoining coast islands, 
after devoting a cou2:)le of days to their examination. 

Wending our Avay homeward, we readied the north- 
ern end of Gasparilla Island, and came to a halt for a 
time. We had been sceptical regarding the fish stories 
that had been told us about the fish in this region, bat after 



IK-DIAIf MOUN-DS AND CAXALS. 315 

liaTing practically tested the matter, we are prepared to 
credit almost anything we hear stated, or see printed, 
reofarding fish and fishing on the south-west coast of 
Florida. I am somewhat of a veteran and energetic fish- 
erman, but for the first time in my life became surfeited 
with one hour's fishing at the inner point of Little Gas- 
parilla Inlet. At the young flood, Harry, Frank, and I 
visited the inlet and noticed a school of minnows being 
chased by a red-fish. To escape their pursuers, hundreds 
jumped on the sand, and with hands and feet we assisted 
many more to land. We commenced with rods and reels, 
but were forced to abandon these fancy implements ; for 
while we were engaged playing a large red, or other fish, 
he would be gobbled by a shark, and tackle would go by 
the board. I hooked a large red-fish w^hich was taken by 
a large shark, and to my regret I found that I had se- 
cured an elephant. I showed fight, the last foot of line 
left my reel, and my excellent and serviceable Shipley 
bamboo rod was soon in extremis. The rod bent like a 
bit of steel, but the braided line held — one joint after 
another was strained, and at last the line parted, and I 
was left alone in my glory, with a strained and dilapidated 
Shipley rod. Resolved upon having a little piscatorial 
amusement, I visited the boat and obtained three strong 
lines eighty feet long, attached an eight-ounce sinker 
and two large hooks to each, and again entered the lists. 
We baited with the minnows, and would throw our 
lines out their full length. Almost instantly the baits 
would be taken by red-fisli ranging from five to twenty 
pounds, cavalli, weak-fisli, bone-fish, grunts, or red and 
black grouper of large size. We unhooked the fish and 
returned them to their native element. At the end of 
an hour, Harry, Frank, and " Al Fresco " abandoned the 



816 SOUTH-WEST FLORIDA. 

sport exhausted and demoralized. Some of our readers 
will say that this was unnecessary slaughter, and not 
sport. I am prepared to admit the soft impeachment, 
but in extenuation enter the plea that we followed 
up the amusement in order that our readers could 
form an opinion regarding the kind of sport obtain- 
able on the south-west coast. Some will probably say 
that " this was equal to pot hunting, and that 
the piscator Avould only capture fish in an artistic 
manner, with rod and reel." To such we will simply 
say. Hook and play a ten or fifteen-pound red fish for 
a few minutes, and then secure an addition of from 
eight to twelve lineal feet of shark, and one such catch, 
and rods, lines, and reels would ^' go up." Inside the 
inner point, sheepsheadipg is excellent, the fish ran- 
ging from one to five pounds. With a stout nine-foot 
rod and three hooks baited with fiddlers, from one to 
three sheepshead can be captured at almost every cast. 
The water is very clear, and the bottom a white shell 
bank, and the fish are visible in dozens, slowly swimming 
along in search of food. Fiddlers of large size can be 
secured in quantity for bait on most of the sandy keys. 
To obtain them easily nothing more is necessary than to 
dig them out of the sand, where their holes are visible. 
If placed in an ordinary wooden pail they will live for 
many days. Red and other fish will readily take cut-fish 
bait, but seem to prefer minnows. 

I noticed numerous deer tracks on the island, and 
suggested to Frank and Harry that they should kill one. 
After their departure for the central portion of the 
island, I seated myself on an empty pail and engaged in 
catching sheepshead and throwing them in again, unless 
eo badly hooked as to render them unfit for anything but 



INDIAN MOUNDS AND CANALS. 317 

a frying pan; I was absorbed in the amusement, when 
I was startled by a large buck and doe plunging into the 
bay within a few feet of my person. When Harry and 
Frank returned they informed me that they had started 
a number, fired at two, but did not kill. All the larger 
islands are stocked with deer, and on most of them dogs 
are unnecessary ; in fact still hunting is the preferable 
mode. Coons in immense numbers exist on these islands, 
and their tracks are visible everywhere near the bay 
beaches. On the mud flats opposite our camping place 
thousands of snipe and curlews could be seen at any 
time, apparently waiting to be destroyed. In the centre 
of the island the sportsman will find a large fresh-water 
lagoon, where excellent water can be obtained. For the 
invalid who is piscatorially inclined, and who desires an 
excellent climate, we would say. Spend a few weeks or 
months on the northern end of Little Gasparilla. The 
air is pure, water excellent, frost absent, sea bathing 
unequalled, fishing beyond description, deer plentiful on 
the island and on the main land. To the sportsman this 
island- offers many inducements, and I would earnestly 
advise any one visiting Charlotte Harbor to spend some 
days here. Yesterday I received a communication from 
a gentleman residing in the interior of Pennsylvania, in 
which I find the following : 

" I have greatly desired to visit Florida for years 
past, but have feared the trip on account of fevers and 
bad water. I have also heard much of the insects of 
Florida, and am enough of an angler to have a whole- 
some dread of the woods in fly time." 

I proposed postponing the consideration of these 
subjects until the final communication, but as I find so 
much ignorance prevailing on many points, I shall take 



318 SOXJTH-WEST FLORIDA. 

advantage of this letter to ventilate these subjects. 
Excellent water can be obtained at any settlement, or 
from the rivers and creeks above salt water. On a few 
of the islands fresh ponds and lagoons can be found, 
where a supply can be secured. On Pine, Useppi, and 
Lacosta islands, a superior article can be obtained. On 
any of the islands a fair to good sample can be found by 
digging a well from two to four feet deep. At Punta 
Rassa and Fort Meyers, cistern water can be secured. 
From the streams and springs north of Clear Water Har- 
bor, water equalling the Croton can be found. If the 
sportsman carries with him one or two five-gallon water 
kegs he will not suffer. We could find room for but 
one five-gallon keg, and we managed very well. Aware 
of the suffering that results from a deficient supply of 
good water, I was induced in a previous communication 
to refer to the subject. 

I have visited nearly all portions of Florida except 
Indian river and Bay Biscayne region, both in winter 
and summer, and can safely assert that I have suffered 
more from mosquitoes in one day at the head of Lake 
Superior, and at Barnegat, New Jersey, than I have 
during all my visits to Florida combined. From what 
I have heard stated and seen published I have reason to 
believe that insects are troublesome on the Indian river, 
but this should not be made to apply to the whole of the 
State. I spent nearly two months on the south-west 
coast, traversed several degrees of latitude and longitude, 
visited most of the bays, rivers, creeks, and islands, and 
I can positively assert that I was really annoyed on but 
one occasion with sand-flies and mosquitoes, and that 
was one afternoon and evening when we were encamped 
in the spring of the Chisiowilski. We made it a rule to 



IXDIAN MOUjS^DS AKD CANALS. 319 

anchor a short distance from shore every night ; but if 
tlie sportsman encamps on hind he will be somewhat 
annoyed by mosquitoes in the early part of the evening. 
The mosquitoes of the south-west coast are lethargic, 
and not active and industrious, as are those of Lake 
Superior and New Jersey. We carried with us a full 
supply of mosquito netting and thin muslin to protect 
us from sand-flies, but the original packages were 
brought back unopened. I will admit that I was put 
through by the '^ red bugs," but my sufferings were the 
result of ignorance, and my dearly bought experience 
will benefit others. At Cedar Keys, Manatee, and 
Tampa, a few fleas will be found, but never away from 
settlements or hog nests. At Fort Thompson I thought- 
lessly entered one of Captain Henry's old palmetto-leaf 
shanties, where dozens of hogs slept nightly, and as a 
result I was literally covered with fleas. I secured such 
a supply that I was forced to strip* and sink my clothing 
to the bottom of the river, and drown the active cus- 
tomers. If tlie sportman steers clear of settlements and 
hog nests, he will not find a flea in the southern portion 
of the State. The last night I spent at Cedar Keys I 
foun?l that the bed contained a number of fleas, and that 
to sleep was impossible. I searched my coat, and removed 
from one of my pockets a box of insect powder. I sprin- 
kled a small quantity in the bed, a little in each shirt sleeve, 
and some on my neck ; a few fanning motions of my shirt 
and the top sheet, and peace reigned supreme. The 
Persian Insect Powder should be carried by every sports- 
man who runs any risk of coming in contact with Heas 
or bed bugs. If the latter prove troublesome, a small 
quantity sprinkled on the lower sheet will act like magic, 
and nearly every bug that enters the bed will be found 



320 SOUTII-AVEST FLORIDA. 

lifeless in the morning. My experience is that the 
yarns s])iin about insect life in Florida is, to a great ex- 
tent, " twaddle and stuff." I suffer more from fleas than 
any person I have ever met, and have received so much 
benefit from the use of the Insect Powder that I am 
induced to refer to it. 

With regard to fevers of an intermittent, remittent, 
or continued type, I believe they are unknown on the 
south-west coast during the winter months, and that, tak- 
ing the year through, it *is the healthiest section in the 
United States. I sometimes think that a man could not 
contract disease on the coast during the winter months. 
I am a medical man of many years' experience, and before 
leaving home filled my pocket-case with medicines, in 
addition to sundry bottles and pill boxes. Companions 
and self were frequently wet, and for nearly two months 
slept under a thin canvas cover open at the ends, and 
not a particle of medicine was required. The only 
article of medicine we were short of was pilot bread, and 
others may be benefited by our experience. In all my 
wanderings in the State, I have seen but one diminutive 
scorpion, and that I captured at Fort Thompson. I 
resided for twelve years in a portion of the world -vthere 
scorpions are plentiful, and I never knew any person to 
be seriously injured by their venom. With regard to the 
bugbear of snakes, I have only to remark, that during 
the period of my recent visit to the State I saw but four 
— a rattlesnake near Fort Thompson, a black snake on 
the Caloosahatchie, a garter snake on Gasparilla Island, 
and a water snake on the Chisiowilski. On one occasion, 
in passing through the interior from Tampa to Silver 
Spring, I noticed a large rattlesnake lying by the side of 
a log, and stopped the conveyance to destroy him, but 



TAMPA. 321 

found that some one had performed the duty before my 
arrival. Hence I have met with two rattlesnakes in the 
State, one alive and one dead. I am prepared to admit 
that they exist in the State, and that they are fully 
developed specimens ; but where one can be found in 
Florida, a dozen can be killed in the mountainous re- 
gions of Pennsylvania. My statement may differ from 
others, but I describe things as I found them. Before 
leaving the North I provided three large India rubber 
blankets to make leggings to protect the party from the 
fangs of rattlesnakes, and it affords m£ pleasure to state 
that I have the blankets uncut in my possession. 



9.— Tampa. 



A FAIR wind favoring us, we left Little Gasparilla 
Pass at 7.30 a. m., and reached Little Sarasota Inlet 
at 3.20 p. M. — a run of thirty-eight miles. En route 
we noticed two boats, and several objects moving on 
the beach. Examining them with our glass we dis- 
covered that the men were poling the boat against a head 
wind, and that the females had landed on the beach, and 
were keeping pace with their lords. A peculiarity of 
the south-west coast is a calm ocean and little, if any, surf, 
unless after a storm, enabling persons to land without 
inconvenience or danger. Having sailed over many 
oceans, and visited more than one coast line, w^e had 
formed an unfavorable opinion of shore lines and surf 
generally, but we returned to our northern home with 
changed opinions, as far as the south-west coast is con- 
cerned. Our first thirty-eight miles of sea navigation 
14* 



322 SOUTH-WEST FLORIDA. 

were undertaken with some reluctance, bnt the return 
voyage was simply viewed in the light of a pleasure trip, 
and was found to be most enjoyable. If I undertake 
another cruise on the coast, it is more than probable that 
I shall take the outside route, and thereby escape the 
annoyance of oyster bars and mud flats ; as a matter 
of course, if the bosom of old mother ocean happen to 
De lumpy, with an uncomfortable amount of dust flying, 
I would take the inside route. The entire coast from 
Cedar Keys to Charlotte Harbor can be safely navigated 
in a 16-foot Whitehall skiff. As proof that our opinion 
is not based upon a few miles of sea work or one day's 
experience outside of the islands, our voyaging at sea 
amounts to over 175 miles. 

Entering Sarasota Inlet and finding the w^ind favor- 
able we kept on our course, and reached the neighbor- 
hood of Anna Maria Keys, at the head of Sarasota Bay, 
at 10 p. M., where we anchored for the nis^ht. Starting; 
early next morning, we reached Manatee at 9 a. m. At 
10 A. M. the steamer Emilie moored to the dock, and 
the courteous captain (Lefferts) kindly offered to give 
us a tow to Tampa, forty miles distant, which we accepted 
with thanks. We reached Tampa early in the afternoon, 
and received a hearty welcome from many friends. 
Tampa is situated on the Hillsboro river, where it enters 
Tampa Bay, and is a pleasant town of about five hun- 
dred inhabitants. Society is excellent, and the inhabi- 
tants kind and hospitable in the extreme. The climate is 
good, and an invalid who is partial to quietness might 
spend a winter there very pleasantly. The town con- 
tains several boarding-houses, and from information 
gleaned from several parties I can recommend the house 
kept by D. Isaac Craft. I visited the house, and found 



TAMPA. 323 

everything neat and clean. Mr. Craft's terms are S60 
per month for two persons in a room. During the winter 
months the climate is pleasant, and the health of the place 
unexceptionable. At this place I made the acquaint- 
ance of Dr. Wall, and found him genial and courteous 
in the extreme, and, as a medical man, we formed 
a favorable opinion of his attainments, and we can 
assure invalids that if they should visit the place, they 
will find in the doctor a gentleman and an educated and 
skilful practitioner of medicine. I am convinced that 
Tampa would be more frequently visited if invalids 
could but realize the climatic advantages of the south- 
west coast. 

For the piscator, Tampa does not present many 
inducements. A few miles up the river, fair trout fishing 
can be obtained, and about the docks and in the channel, 
passable sheepsheading will be found. By taking a row 
or sail boat, and proceeding to the oyster bar, nine miles 
down the bay, superior sheepshead and drum fishing can 
be enjoyed. On the morning of our departure we were 
notified that a hunting and fishing party had been made 
up for our benefit ; that it was the intention of the party 
to take a boat and outfit, by a mule team, to a point on 
the river forty miles above Tampa, and to fish the river 
and hunt the south bank on the return trip. To have 
carried out the programme, from ten to fourteen days 
w^ould have been required, and as our time was limited 
we found it impossible to accept the invitation so kindly 
extended. At this point I made the acquaintance of Mr. 
Charles Moore, originally of Boston, Massachusetts, but 
a resident of Tampa since the war. Mr. M. informed us 
that he would furnish sportsmen with a boat, mule team 
and wagon and liis services, for $5 per day — truly a cheap 



324 SOUTH-WEST FLORIDA. 

hunting and fishing ontfit. He stated his intention of 
building, during the ensuing summer, a boat suitable for 
the coast, and that he would be prepared to fit out and 
accompany sporting parties on reasonable terms. In this 
connection we may remark that several parties residing 
at Manatee can supply boats adapted to the wants of 
coasting parties ; and to ascertain names and prices, tour- 
ists might address Edmund E. Lee, Esq., Manatee. 
Being acquainted with this gentleman, we feel assured 
that he would aid tourists and others in any way. 

We cleaned boat, aired clothing, and purchased a 
barrel of ''new and first-class pilot bread," and left 
Tampa, with its hospitable inhabitants, behind. "We 
reached the oyster bar at 8 p. m., and came to anchor. 
In the morning we laid in a stock of oysters, and pro- 
ceeded to the wreck of the H. M. Cool, to the south of 
Gadsden's Point. We tested the fishing about the reef, 
but, to our surprise, failed to capture fish enough for our 
dinner. Onward and northward being our motto, we 
steered for Big Bayou, where we found a safe anchorage 
for the night. 

But to the biscuit business. I have reason to believe 
that my readers will conclude that the crew of the Spray 
had an attack of biscuits on the brain, but when it 
becomes necessary to keep the teeth going and the staff 
of life cannot be obtained, the biscuit business becomes 
an important subject. We purchased our barrel of 
"fresh and first-class pilot bread" from a firm whose 
names we shall not mention ; for it is possible that the 
clerk may have made a mistake and delivered the wrong 
barrel. We opened the barrel, and the first thing that 
met our gaze were hundreds of well-developed cock- 
roaches. We carefully separated biscuits from roaches. 



TAMPA. 325 

fclie bread beino: consiofned to our bread box and the 
roaches to the briny deep. We made an attack upon the 
new biscuit, but discovered that eating them was a diffi- 
cult undertaking ; for each biscuit contained numerous 
slate-colored insects tasting like quinine. To eat such 
bread was impossible, so we were forced to fall back on 
sweet potatoes and fish until we could reach Clear Water 
Harbor. To intending tourists or sportsmen w^e would 
say : lay in an ample supply of pilot bread before leaving 
New York or Savannah, and not trust to luck, as did 
*^ Al Fresco" and his companions. It is possible that a 
supply of edible biscuit may be obtained on the coast an- 
other year, but if we ever visit the region again we shall 
lay in a larger stock of bread than we did on the occa- 
sion of our last cruise. 

Mullet Key, at the mouth of Tampa Bay, is a noted 
range for deer, and the still hunter will find it worth a 
visit. We were informed by a gentleman of the colored 
persuasion, who was in the habit of visiting the island, 
that rattlesnakes were plentiful and of a remarkable size ; 
this statement we give as we received it, but would sug- 
gest to hunters the propriety of w^earing leggings and 
looking out for "snakes in the grass" if they ever visit 
this island. Leaving Point Prunelles we steered a course 
for John's Pass, and landed on the island on the west 
side of the entrance, and in a few minutes captured a 
number of fine sheepshead. This locality is noted for 
its beautiful marine algae, and w^e deeply regretted the 
want of proper appliances to collect and preserve speci- 
mens. On the point of tlie island, at the north side of 
the entrance, we found a shallow^ lagoon containing 
fish, a matter of interest to sportsmen and tourists. 
An examination of tlie end of the island showed the ex- 



326 SOUTH-WEST FLORIDA. 

istence of deer tracks in every direction. We hoisted 
sail and steered a course for the northern end of Tampa 
Bay, where Ave found the bay to diminish in Avidth, and 
assume tlie appearance of a river. On our left, the shore 
of the sea island varied from six to ten feet high, and on 
right, or main land side, mud and grassy flats Avere fre- 
quently passed, and these Avere literally covered Avith 
ducks, snipe, and curlcAvs. As Ave approached the head 
of Clear Water Harbor Ave found the passage to become 
very narroAv, and ultimately end in a shalloAV mud-flat, 
where the Spray grounded. The tide w^as ebbing, so we 
deemed it best to apply a muscular breeze and reach 
deep Avater. Harry pulled at the cable, and Frank and 
I applied ourselves to the stern of the boat, and in this 
way we worked her for tAvo hundred yards in less than 
one foot of Avater. Soon after reaching Clear Water 
Harbor Ave sighted Mrs. Teemer's residence, and landed. 
From Mrs. T. Ave purchased a supply of the largest and 
most delicious oranges to be obtained on the south-west 
coast. It was the Sabbath when Ave reached the dock, at 
the flrst store in the harbor, and Ave deemed it advisable 
to secure a supply of crackers. We visited the store, 
and the old fellow Avho kept it being religiously inclined, 
at first positively refused to sell us anything to eat, but 
Avhen I assured him that Ave Avere in Avant he opened his 
heart and consented to sell us enough to last until morn- 
ing. I engaged him in conversation regarding oranges, 
climate, soil, and the advantages and resources of the 
locality, and before I left j)urchased all his soda and 
sugar crackers. My clothing was anything but attrac- 
tive, but Avhen the sanctimonious old gentleman saw mo 
open my pocket-book, and noticed that it contained the 
eincAvs of Avar, his Christian prejudices melted like ice in 



TAMPA. 327 

July. Before leaving, he induced Frank to purchase a 
small bunch of bananas, but when we attempted to etit 
them we found that they equalled a poor turnip in flavor. 
The land at this point is excellent, health unexcelled, 
and the climate all that can be desired by the settler. 
The land along the harbor is high, and the locality is 
rapidly settling up. At the passes the fishing is inferior, 
as compared with many points to the north or south. 
The residents of the main land occasionally visit the islands 
and drive for deer, and in consequence these animals are 
shy and difficult to approach by the still hunter. 

Finding nothing to interest or detain us at Clear 
"Water Harbor, we headed our boat for the Anelote river, 
ten miles to the northward. Leaving the northern end 
of the harbor, the tourist must follow the channel for 
two miles toward the Anelote Keys, so as to clear an 
extensive sand bank bounding the northern side of the 
channel. After rounding the bank a north-west course 
must be kej^t, leaving the shore two or three miles to the 
right. At this distance from land the water will be 
found to be about four or five feet in depth, and a look- 
out must be kept for *^ nigger heads," black rocks, in 
some cases covered with but a few inches of water. The 
water is very clear, and no difficulty will be experienced 
in detecting them if ordinary care is taken. After mak- 
ing a few miles of northing, a long point Avill be noticed 
covered with tall pines, and to the left several small 
keys. By keeping close to the point and following the 
channel next the main land, the Anelote river will be 
found a quarter of a mile north of the point. A short 
distance from the mouth of the river, on the north side, 
the tourist will notice some stakes, and if ho lands he 
will find a well of excellent water but a few yards from 



328 SOUTH-WEST FLORIDA. 

the beach. We found the river wide and shallow, and 
the navigation extremely difficult, in consequence of the 
existence of numerous and extensive oyster bars. Pro- 
ceeding up the river one mile, we noticed a house on the 
left bank, and came to an anchor. In front of the house, 
excellent red sheepshead and weak fishing can be 
obtained. 



1 0. — SUBTERRAKEAIT STREAMS. 

The morning after our arrival at the Anelote, we 
started for Salt Spring, two miles distant. Leaving 
the river to the left, we entered Salt Spring run, and 
soon found ourselves floating on the basin of the spring. 
We found the basin to be one hundred yards wide and 
eighty feet deep at the deepest place. The water of 
this spring differs from that of the many we have 
visited in the State, being dark in color, like that of 
the St. Johns river. The basin swarmed with fish, and 
large tarpum could be seen breaking water in every 
direction. It is named Salt Spring, but this is evidently 
an error, for the water in the basin is merely brackish, 
while in the run where the tide ebbs and flows the waters 
are salt. We have reason to believe that Salt Spring 
is the outlet of Lake Butler, distant two or three miles. 
This lake has several tributaries, but no visible outlet ; 
the water is dark colored, and it is at a much higher 
level than Salt Spring. The brackish condition of the 
water in Salt Spring is evidently the result of tidal in- 
fluence. Leaving Salt Spring and its outlet we entered 
the river and ascended it for three miles, where we dis- 



SUBTEEKAXEAX STREAMS. 329 

covered a stream on onr right hand twenty feet in 
width and ten in depth. This we followed for half a 
mile, when we came in sight of Salt Lake, an interest- 
ing and picturesque sheet of water one mile long and 
half a mile wide. At the entrance of the lake, snipe, 
duck, coot, and curlews were yisible in countless numbers, 
and large red-fish, sheepshead, and trout fled before the 
boat in hundreds. This sheet of water is worth visit- 
ing, especially if the day is warm and the sportsman fond 
of 'gator shooting. Lake Butler, a noted place for 
aquatic birds, is half a mile from the southern shore of 
Salt Lake. Deer hunting in this neighborhood is fair, 
and the region would be found worthy of a visit. 

Finding nothing of special importance to detain us, 
we descended the river and started for the Wiccawat- 
chee river, thirty-five miles to the northward. En route 
we sighted the mouth of the Pithlachestacootie river, 
but from information obtained we deem it unworthy of 
a visit. In steering a course for Bayport, at the mouth 
of the Wiccawatchee, we kept the main land from two 
to three miles to starboard, finding from four to five 
feet of water. In running along this section of the 
coast, it is essential that the tourist should keep a good 
lookout for *^ nigger heads." Baj^port is easily recog- 
nized by a large storehouse and a pile of cedar logs. 
"We reached the dock at three p., m., and went in search 
of soda crackers, and at the store laid in an addition to 
our stock. The storekeeper assured us that '' his 
oranges were the best on the coast." Upon his recom- 
mendation we purchased a supply, and regret to say we 
found them very inferior. The present population 
numbers about twenty. Before the war large quantities 
of cedar timber were shipped from this point, but of late 



330 SOUTH-WEST FLORIDA. 

years the trade havS almost ceased. Standing on the 
dock we noticed a hirge otter on the opposite side of the 
river, and tried the efiect of a Winchester cartridge. It 
proved to be a line shot, but the elevation was too great, 
and the ball passed about one inch above his head. As- 
certaining that the spring of the AViccawatchee resem- 
bled those of streams farther north, we deemed it best 
to forego the i)leasure of ascending the river. 

From snch data as we were enabled to collect, we 
have reason to believe that the country back of Bayport 
is ivell stocked with bear and deer, and feel assured that 
the sportsman may secure some excellent sport. The sec- 
tion referred, to can be reached by land, by taking stage 
from Gainesville, or by leaving Ocklawaha steamers at 
Silver Springs ; conveyance to Ocala and stage from Ocala 
to Brooksville. At the latter place a vehicle of some 
description could be obtained, by which Bayport, distant 
thirty miles, could be reached. The tourist will find 
the neigliborhood of Burkville an interesting locality. 
The immediate neighborhood is hilly, some of the 
highest points attaining an altitude of over four hun- 
dred feet. The land is of a superior quality, water first 
class, and the climate during the summer months unex- 
ceptionable. In the neighborhood the sportsman will 
find some crystal lakes, surrounded by hills, where he 
can catch quantum suff. of trout and Ijream. 

Leaving Bayport astern, we headed for the Chisio- 
wilski, distant ten miles, which we reached in the after- 
noon. Fortune favored us, and we found the mouth of 
the river without difficulty. Passing up the river for a 
distance of five miles, we found two branches, and as a 
matter of course selected the deepest and plainest, which 
soon headed in a mud hole, to the disappointment of all. 



SUBTERRAXEAX STREAMS. 831 

Returning, we tried the right-hand branch, and for half 
a mile poled the Spray through reeds and lily-pads, 
when we found the river to widen and deepen. AVe 
soon reached the head of the stream, and found an 
enchanting spot, one worthy of the pencil of an artist. 
The basin of the spring of the Chisiowilski is about one 
hundred feet in diameter, and tlie depth of the water in 
the spring thirty-eight feet. The water is as pelhicid as 
air, and the most minute object can be plainly seen on 
the clear wdiite bottom. From appearances, the water 
issued from an opening seven feet wide and four high. 
Looking over the side of the boat, we noticed hundreds 
of sheepshead, cavalli, bream, trout, and red and black 
groupers swimming in the basin. Being disposed to 
indulge in a fish supper, we went for the scaly customers, 
but before our bait reached the bottom the fish left the 
basin and disappeared in the subterranean channel. 
Disliking to be defeated, I lashed three hooks to a single 
gut, with the intention of hooking the fish in an unsports- 
manlike manner. Upon their return to the basin we 
quietly dropped our snatch hook, but before it reached 
the bottom the fish took their departure. We devoted 
two hours to our piscatorial efforts, and succeeded in 
capturing seven small fish. Here we were favored with 
a drizzling rain-storm, lasting several hours, the first we 
noticed from the day we left Cedar Keys. Leaving the 
spring, we followed an old trail for a few hundred yards, 
when we reached open piney woods. Here we met a 
gentleman from Texas, who had left Texan northers 
behind and located at this j^oint. He was engaged in 
the production of tropical fruits, and he appeared to be 
favorably impresed with the climate. He assured us 
that he could not be induced to return to his former 



333 SOUTH-WEST FLORIDA. 

home in Texas. "We reluctantly bade farewell to this 
romantic and beautiful spot, and directed our course 
toward Homosassa. 

A feature peculiar to the section of country between 
the Anelote and Withlacoochie rivers is the existence 
of a number of rivers that are formed by subterranean 
streams that issue from the earth at the base of an 
elevated region of land which follows the coast line at a 
distance of ten miles from the Gulf. To find the mouth 
of one of these streams is a matter of some difficulty to 
the uninitiated. For several miles from the shore the 
water is very shoal, and oyster bars and sand flats of 
great extent exist in troublesome numbers. Along the 
shore line the land is low, and is cut up by numerous 
bayous, bays, and blind rivers and creeks, and in conse- 
quence it is difficult to discover the entrance to some ©f 
the streams. If voyaging without a pilot, it is advisable 
to institute inquiries on every possible occasion, and pay 
particular attention to the existence of stakes. To enable 
them to find and trace the tortuous channels leading in 
between the oyster beds and sand flats, the coasters have 
planted stakes, which will serve as guide to the stranger. 
By following the course pointed out by the stakes, and 
paying attention to the set of the tide, as well as the deep 
water and the distances sailed, the wanderer will succeed in 
finding the mouths of the streams. But it need not sur- 
prise any wanderer if he should spend hours in vain search 
to find the entrance to some of the rivers in this section. 

A coaster informed us that we could readily distin- 
guish the entrance to the Homosassa river by the pres- 
ence of the wreck of a blockade runner. At two p. m. 
we reached a point where we expected to discover the 
entrance to the river, and looked for the wreck ; but 



SUBTERRAIs^EAN STREAMS. 333 

we squinted and quizzed in vain. We turned the prow 
of the Spray toward the shore, but could not determine 
which opening was the mouth of the stream. Here was 
a passage, and there was another ; openings in the salt 
marsh appeared to be innumerable. We entered a 
number, but soon found them to lead into shoal water. 
Night threw her mantle over the scene, and we anchored. 
About nine p. m. we heard the sound of voices, but 
soon after a boat containing four gentlemen hauled 
alongside. Upon inquiry we found that they hailed 
from Crystal river, and were en route to Jones', on the 
Homosassa. The pilot stated that he was unable to 
determine his position, but that the entrance to the 
mouth of the river was bounded to the north by a shell 
bank. We informed our new acquaintances that the 
shell bank they were in search of was but a few hundred 
yards distant, and if they would follow we would pilot 
them to the entrance. We landed at the shell bank, 
and after indulging in a bo}dsh-like freak of setting fire 
to the decayed foliage of the yucca and palm trees, we 
anchored and turned in for the night. 

Sportsman in search of Homosassa river will find its 
mouth ten miles south-east of the Crystal, and the same 
distance north-west of the Chisiowilski rivers. In 
approaching the mouth of the river a mass of rocks will 
be noticed a quarter of a mile north-west of the mouth, 
and a white shell bank from six to eight feet high on its 
northern side. For several miles in a westerly and 
southerly direction from the mouth of the river the 
water will be found to very shoal, and the navigation 
difficult in consequence of the existence of large beds of 
hard limestone rocks, extensive beds Of can oysters, broad 
sand-flats, and sundry nigger heads. To parties who 



334 souTn-ivEST Florida. 

attempt the navigation of this section witliout a pilot, 
we would say, Shorten sail, keep a good look-out, and 
"go easy over the rough places." 



11. — A Sportsman's Paradise. 

The morning after our arrival at the mouth of the 
Homosassa we were moving by daylight, and after 
breakfast followed in the wake of our new friends, as 
their boatmen professed to be acquainted with the chan- 
nel. AVe had not proceeded over one mile before we 
found the Spray to be hard and fast on a cove-oyster bar. 
As the boat belonging to our new friends was light draught, 
they left us alone in our glory. Finally we found the 
channel, and proceeded but a short distance when we 
discovered what appeared to be two rivers, and we nat- 
urally followed the widest. By the use of the lead we 
found the channel to shoal rapidly, so we returned and 
took the right-hand stream, and after sailing a distance 
of four miles Ave sighted a residence on a high shell bank 
and an attractive boat-house at the water's edge. As we 
reached the landing, the rain descended in torrents, and 
we pushed the stern of the Spray under the boat-house. 
We had barely secured the boat before a youth presented 
himself and invited us to accept the hospitalities of the 
liouse. We inquired for Mr. Jones, and were informed 
that he was absent, so we politely declined the invitation 
so liospitably extended. As it was blowing a gale we 
deemed it prudent not to light a fire in our stove, but 
indulged in a homoeopathic meal, consisting of throe red 



335 

herrings, a cup of lemonade, and a few soda crackers per 
man. Our frugal repast was barely finished when we 
received a pressing invitation to dinner, and as our cloth- 
ing was not very ornamental, we offered as an excuse 
that we had dined sumptuously. Soon after we noticed 
a lady running through the rain toward the boat-house, 
and her pleasant and smiling face convinced us that she 
was kind and hospitable, and, in words, she informed us 
that '' Mr. Jones was absent, but that she was chief of 
the establishment under the circumstances." Findins: 
that " no excuse would be accepted, and that we must 
make ourselves at home," we surrendered, and followed 
her to the dining room. Upon entering we found a 
large dining table groaning under a supply of edibles 
that would have gratified both a gourmand and a gourmet. 
For nearly two months we had not taken a seat at a 
table, and it was simply a caution to cooks to see the 
manner in which we deposited boiled and baked sheeps- 
head, roasted and stewed wild clucks, beef, vegetables, 
home-made bread, fresh milk and butter, an excellent 
dessert, and an indefinite number of the most delicious 
oranges. 

After dinner we expressed a desire to leave and reach 
the head of the river, but Mrs. J. insisted upon our re- 
maining until Mr. J. returned, and finding that excuses 
were useless, we accepted the invitation so hospitably 
tendered. Hbmosassa was the residence of the Hon. Mr. 
Yulee before the war, and the house is situated on a shell 
mound sloping to the river. Along the water's edge a 
permanent stone wall a quarter of a mile in length has 
been constructed. Near the stone- wall a row of gigantic 
fig-trees are growing, the spread of the branches of the 
largest being fifty-three feet. The river is about ten 



336 ' SOUTH-WEST FLORIDA. 

miles in length, and as soon as the weather permitted we 
examined it to its source, as well as the adjoining country. 
Two miles above Mr. J.'s residence we left the boat, and 
landed at the lower edge of the old sugar plantation. 
Here we found an old clearing of several hundred acres, 
which had been devoted to sugar culture in times past. In 
traversing the old plantation we noticed deer and turkey 
tracks in every direction. We readied in the river again 
at the old sugar house, and took seats in tlie yawl boat. 
Proceeding up the stream we noticed large fish in thou- 
sands fleeing before the boat. After a pleasant journey 
we found ourselves floating in the bosom of Homosassa 
Spring — truly an enchanting spot, a view of which re|)aid 
us for all our wanderings. Looking over the side of the 
boat we noticed a number of huge snapping turtles cling- 
ing to the rocky ledges, ahdcavalli, red-fish, bass, sheeps- 
head, weak-fish and red and black grouper in thousands 
leisurely swimming about the basin. In this spring all 
the species of fish are ever ready to take a bait, and the 
follower of Old Isaac can obtain a surfeit of sport at any 
time. Owing to the voracity of the fish and the clear- 
ness of the water the piscator can select the variety of 
fish he wishes to capture. In consequence of the pres- 
ence of a number of large turtles and such countless 
numbers of fish, the water in this basin is not as clear as 
it is in some others, thirty-five to forty feet being the 
limit where fish can be seen. We measured the deepest 
point in tlie basin and found the lead to reach bottom 
at forty-eight feet. 

Around the basin and along the banks of the river 
we found large numbers of water turkeys, cormorants, 
fish-hawks, and species of the heron and crane fami- 
lies, which were more easily approached than on any 



33? 

stream we have visited. Ducks, not to be enumerated 
by thousands but by square acres, were visible to the 
right and left, and before and behind us. The sportsman 
can find accommodations at Mr. Jones', and can fully 
occupy his time. Near the house excellent sheejoshead- 
ing exists, and these noble fish, of large size, can be cap- 
tured until the arms ache. By trolling with a spoon or 
spinner, red-fish can be caught ranging from five to thirty 
pounds, A 3^ear or two since, a gentleman from the 
Hub engaged in this kind of fishing, and pickerel fisher 
like, placed the line between his teeth. He secured a 
bite, the line fouled, and at the end of the performance 
he was minus a tooth but landed a thirty-two pound red- 
fish. By visiting the spring four miles from the house, 
the knight of the rod can land fish of large size as rap- 
idly as he can bait and secure his fish. If he desires 
larger and more clumsy game he can amuse himself cap- 
turing turtles ranging from eighteen to thirty inches 
in length. In the Homosassa and Salt rivers, and in the 
bayous and blind creek near Mr. Jones' residence, the 
shootisfc will find ducks by the square acre, and if he is 
disposed to engage in the destruction of larger game — 
such as pelicans, gannet, and an endless variety of herons 
and cranes — all that is necessary to be done is to lay in a 
stock of provisions, take a boat, and sail to one of the 
St. Martin's Keys — a few miles from the mouth of the 
Homosassa. On one of these keys the sportsman will 
find a rookery, where the sea birds, frequenting an area 
of probably forty miles, nightly collect to roost. 

At the old sugar plantation two miles above the 
house, good quail and snipe shooting is obtainable. Bears 
exist in the hammocks, and can be captured if the sports- 
man secures the services of a *' cracker " with his bear dogs, 
15 



338 SOUTH-WEST FLORIDA. 

Tlie neighborhood seems to be a favorite resort for deer, 
and for tliis description of the sport we can unhesitat- 
ingly recommend Jones' as a place of resort. The still 
hunter, by visiting the old sugar plan tuition on the edge 
of the pine timber, four miles from the house, will ex- 
perience but little difficulty in securing a pair of antlers 
worthy of gracing his Northern home. For miles west 
and south-west of the house large areas of low-lying land 
exist, covered with a luxuriant growth of rushes and 
coarse grasses, with here and there islands of timber, 
consisting of gum, live and swamp oak, cedar and cab- 
bage palms. The low lands furnish excellent feed, and 
the islands shelter for deer. Late in the year the rushes 
and grasses lose their vitality, and if a windy day is 
selected, thousands of acres can be burned over by the 
application of a single match. In a few weeks the flats 
will be covered with a luxuriant and succulent growth 
of grass, and deer will yisit the locality in numbers. 
These flats are comparatively dry, and would furnish the 
fire-pan hunter an excellent field for sport. If parties 
Avho propose visiting Homosassa would communicate 
with Mr. Jones a few weeks in advance, he would burn 
off a few square miles of marsh for the benefit of his 
visitors. If turkey shooting is desired, the sportsman 
can enjoy it by ascending the river to the spring, and 
proceeding to the edge of the pine timber. Mr. Jones 
nephew, a mere lad, informed us that he had killed 
sixteen deer within a short period, and in hail of the 
liouse, on a small clearing on the opposite side of the 
river. As Frank was unacquainted with fire hunting, I 
sug-gested that we should engage in the sport. After 
supper we provided ourselves with some fat pine, and a 
long-handled frying-pan. We landed on the opposite 



A sportsman's paradise. 339 

bank at tlie clearing, lighted our fire, and had not pro- 
ceeded over eighty yards before we noticed four fine deer 
within thirty yards. Fortunately for the deer, Frank 
had an acute attack of the buck fever and aimed at the 
Pleiades. While he was taking aim I heard voices at the 
house ; hence here was deer shooting within a reasonable 
distance from home. Next day I suggested another 
hunt, and intimated that I would try my luck. After 
supper, several visitors, Harry, Frank, Mr. J.'s nephew, 
Fifteenth Amendment Dick, and Al Fresco — seven in all 
— ^lef t for the clearing, truly a sufficient number to prevent 
the possibility of securing a deer. We lighted our fire, 
and had not proceeded over one hundred yards before I 
noticed four deer within twenty yards of the light, but 
owing to the noise made by the seven pairs of feet 
tramping through the dry grass, they were alarmed, and 
before I could step in front of the light to insure accu- 
racy of aim they bounded into the hammock. Look- 
ing to the right I noticed a j^air of eyes at a distance of 
probably eighty yards. I gave him both barrels, and 
although wounded he escaped. Those who are posted will 
remark that it was madness to attempt fire hunting 
with such a retinue, and I am prepared to admit the 
nselessness of the proceeding, but I dislike to be selfish 
and insist on engaging in the sport with but one com- 
pauion. On the first occasion our party numbered five, 
and on the last seven, and if deer can be so easily ap- 
proached by such numbers, what would be the result if 
the sportsman carried his own head light, or was merely 
attended by the pan carrier. 

Salt river is a tidal channel, extending from the 
Homosassa to the Crystal river, and is about ten miles in 
length, with its bottom literally paved with large and 



340 SOUTH-WEST FLORIDA. 

luscious-cooking oysters. The bars o2 the mouth of 
the Crystal river are covered with the largest and finest 
salt oysters to be found on the American coast. When 
he has visitors Mr. Jones visits these beds weekly, and 
obtains a boat load of these delicious bivalves for the 
benefit of his guests, who can have them cooked how or 
Avhen they like, or can open and deposit them when the 
spirit moveth. Having referred to the bivalve attrac- 
tions of the place, I may as Avell notice the host and 
hostess as well as the house and dietetic attractions. 

Mr. Jones is a Bostonian, and served with honor in 
the First Massachusetts cavalry during the war. Visitors 
will find him quiet, intelligent, unobtrusive, and ever 
studious of the comfort of his guests. Mrs. Jones is a 
native of Bloomfield, New York, and will be found to be 
intelligent, affable, kind, and ever ready to contribute 
to the comfort and pleasures of those who favor her with 
their patronage. She seems to anticipate every want of 
her visitors, and as a cook and housekeeper she cannot 
be excelled. Everything was scrupulously clean, and 
the table in every way unexceptionable. What the vis- 
itor to Florida seldom meets with, he will find at Homo- 
sassa — the best of home-made bread, fresh milk twice 
daily, and fresh butter at least twice weekly. In addition 
to a lavish supply of the necessaries and luxuries of life, 
the visitor is expected to deposit an indefinite number 
of the most delicious oranges after each meal, between 
times, and before retiring at night. The house is near 
the river, one story high, and surrounded by a spacious 
veranda. The rooms open on the verandas on two sides, 
the ceilings being very high, and each having a fire-place 
in it. The beds are such as visitors seldom find in Flor- 
ida. Owing to the limited number of rooms, Mr. Jones 



A sportsman's paradise. 341 

can accommodate but four couples in the main build- 
ing, but at a distance of one hundred yards from the 
house, is Liberty Hall, where from two to four stags can 
sleep and enjoy themselves. If justified (and I sin- 
cerely hope he will be), Mr. Jones will add to his 
present building. 

In my humble opinion no place in the State presents 
so many attractions for the sportsman, if we take into 
consideration the sporting advantages in connection 
with home comforts, excellent accommodations, sup^erior 
table, perfect cleanliness, and an admirable climate. 
Sportsmen who wish to enjoy themselves, and at the 
same time be accompanied by their better halves, will 
find this place to offer many attractions. If a stag 
party of from two to four wish to enjoy themselves for a 
few weeks or months, we would recommend them to 
engage Liberty Hall. What surprised me most was the 
moderate charge for the accommodations furnished — 
from $10 to $12 per week. Visitors will find an ample 
supply of boats, and for a trifling charge, negroes living 
on the plantation will keep the piscator supplied with 
bait. Mr. Jones is the postmaster, and the place is 
provided with a weekly mail. We spent a week at Ho- 
mosassa, and found bat one thing to annoy, that being 
the fact that we were compelled to leave. 

To those who propose visiting the locality we would 
say, provide a strong bass rod, a crab net^ and a full 
supply of strong hooks and lines. In this connection we 
may remark that we tested at this point as well as many 
others, a sheepshead hook manufactured by Shipley & 
Son, of No. 503 Commerce street, Philadelphia, and we 
can unhesitatingly recommend it as unequalled for 
strength and temper. The only fault of the hook is 



842 SOUTH-WEST FLORIDA. 

in the shortness of the shank, which should be twice the 
present length. 

Some of my readers will ask, Where is Homosassa, and 
how can it be reached ? which I will explain. It is about 
forty miles from Cedar Keys, and may be reached by 
two routes — one via Savannah, Fernandina, or Jackson- 
ville to Cedar Keys, and the other via Silver Spring and 
Ocala. The sportsman can easily ascertain upon what 
day he will reach Cedar Keys, and by addressing Alfred 
E. Jones, postmaster, Homasassa, Florida, in advance 
of the day of arrival, Mr. Jones will be found on the 
keys with a boat to transport visitors to his place free of 
charge. If unable to communicate with Mr. Jones, a 
suitable boat may be chartered at Cedar Keys for about 
$10 for the trip. If the sportsman is desirous of visiting 
an interesting and attractive portion of the State, he can 
take steamer from Jacksonville to Silver Spring, and 
back from the spring to Ocala — a distance of six miles. 
From Ocala to Homosassa the distance is forty miles, over 
a good road, and E. J. Harris, of the Ocala House, will 
make the necessary arrangements, for transportation of 
visitors to the hospitable ingle-side of A. E. Jones. We 
have at various times wandered over a large portion of 
the State, and in all sincerity can assure the readers 
that, taking everything into consideration, we found 
Jones', on the Homosassa, the most attractive point 
we have thus far found in Florida ; and if alive and kick- 
ing during the course of next winter we propose visiting 
there again, and it would afford me great pleasure to 
meet some of the sporting readers at the Jiospitablo 
home of Alfred E. Jones. 



SUGGESTIOlfS TO TOURISTS. 343 



12. — Suggestions to Tourists. 

Private business requiring Mr. Jones' presence at 
the settlement at CiTstai river, we took advantage 
of the opportunity and followed in his wake. We re- 
luctantl}' bade good-by to Mrs. Jones, and the un- 
bounded hospitality and numerous sporting attractions 
of Homosassa. This was our first visit to this sports- 
man's paradise, and we have reason to believe that it will 
not be the last. Crystal river is distant about ten miles 
from the Homosassa, and the two are connected by a 
cross stream, known as Salt river, the latter being 
parallel with, and distant six miles from the Gulf. 
Two years since, two Northern sportsmen were rowing a 
small Whitehall boat at the Homosassa end of the river 
when a tarpum weighing 125 pounds leaped into the 
boat. The result was ludicrous in the extreme. In his 
efforts to escape, the motions of the fish imperilled the 
hull as well as the shins of the occupants. Oars were 
tried, but the sportsmen soon discovered that they 
would run the risk of knocking a hole through the boat's 
bottom. Jack-knives were tested, but the huge scale of 
the fish protected it. As a dernier ressort, the two- 
legged occujoants sought refuge at either end of the boat, 
and waited until the fish became exhausted. For several 
miles after entering this stream, we found it to be liter- 
ally covered with wild ducks, but as we could not utilize 
them, we refrained from wasting ammunition. This 
river is tortuous and shallow, and presents numerous 
difficulties in navigation in the way of extensive oyster 
bars and mud flats. The bivalves are very large, fat, and 
and almost inexhaustible. Having no experience in the 



344 SOUTII-AVEST FLORIDA. 

canning business, we can form no idea of the effect of 
climate in interfering with the canning process ; but if the 
climate did not prove too warm, we fancy that this 
would be one of the best locations in the United States 
for a canning establishment. Wages are low, and 
oysters of large size can be obtained in unlimited quantity 
for a trifling outlay. The prepared oysters could be 
cheaply shipped to Ncav York, New Orleans, or Havana. 
We reached the settlement of Crystal river early in 
the afternoon, and received a hearty welcome. The 
settlement consists of about one dozen buildings, and 
has considerable trade with the interior. We entered 
the basin, and found a number of springs which we 
sounded, the deepest measuring but eighteen feet. In the 
afternoon, the residents arranged for a fire hunt for our 
benefit, but as the night was chilly and as I was suffering 
from an attack of inflammation of my right thumb, follow- 
ing an injury, I deemed it best to remain on the Spray, 
and allow Frank and Harry to represent the party. In 
this connection we may remind the uninitiated that 
before they engaged in fire hunting it might be advisable 
for them to examine and note the size as well as distance 
apart of the eyes of horses, cows, and deer, as mistakes 
are liable to be made. One of the gentlemen who was 
instrumental in getting up the fire hunt, has a tender 
spot ; and that is an error he committed in his first fii'e 
hunt. He sighted a pair of eyes, took deliberate aim, 
pulled trigger, and next day paid $25, the value of a 
neighbor's cow. Within a short period a Northern man 
settled not a hundred miles from New Smyrna, and 
resolved upon having some sport. He started with pan 
and double-barrelled gun, and after wandering several 
miles, succeeded in shining the eyes of two deer, and fired 



SUGGESTIONS TO TOURISTS. 345 

at both. They fell, and upon exammation of the ani- 
mals and the surroundings, he realized the fact tliat he 
had lost his way, was near his home, and in a sportsman- 
like manner had killed a heifer and colt belonging to 
himself. 

Finding nothing very attractive about the settlement, 
we departed for the Crystal river oyster bars. These are 
situated about four miles from the main land, and should 
be visited by every sportsman who is fond of superior 
bivalves. By landing on the bars at low water, large 
and delicious oysters can be gathered in any quantity. 
We found them to be fat, and of the most excellent flavor. 
Leaving the oyster bar, we headed for the Withlacoochio 
river, distant ten miles. The opening of this river can 
be easily detected by the presence of a large saw-mill at 
the westerly side of the river's mouth. We encamped 
for the night near the mill, and the next morning com- 
menced ascending the stream. We ascended for several 
miles, but in consequence of the height and density of the 
timber, we found our sail useless ; as we were not inclined 
to pull against the rapid current, and as the river did 
not seem to present any sporting attractions, we re- 
turned to the mill and encamped for the night. 

Next morning, at seven o'clock a. m., we hoisted sail 
and headed for Cedar Keys. Not being disposed to fol- 
low the trend of the coast and dodge oyster-bars and 
nigger-heads, we steered a course by compass, and reached 
the Keys at one p. m., at which point ended the cruise 
of the good boat Spray. We have wandered some little 
in this, as well as in other lands, but our trip, extending 
over a period of two months, we shall always review as 
the most pleasant one we have ever taken. Having 
found our tour so enjoyable and satisfactory, we feel dis- 
15* 



8-46 SOUTH-WEST FLORIDA. 

posed to try it again, visit the best fishing and hunting 
points, and examine the portion of coast lying between 
Punta Rassa and Cape Sable. 

In taking a farewell of the readers who may have fol- 
lowed lis in our cruise, I may remark that, however fishy 
some of our statements may appear, they can be relied 
upon. To day I received a letter from a gentleman resid- 
ing in Savannah, in which I find the following : 

" I have travelled considerably in Florida, m^re espe- 
cially in the eastern and western points of South Florida ; 
and I may here add, that wliile reading your interesting 
letters, I wandered in my memory over many familiar 
places with you, and I honestly congratulate you on the 
accuracy of your reports." 

I may also remark that I have become so much 
attached to Floridians, and am so much pleased with the 
climate, that I have permanently settled in Jacksonville ; 
and that it Avill, at all times, afford me pleasure to commu- 
nicate to sportsmen visiting the State, any information 
m my possession. Our good friend, the editor, is at 
hberty to give my name to sportsmen who desire it. In 
the future we propose visiting localities away from the 
beaten track of tourist travel, and shall briefly describe 
their sporting advantages, for the benefit of gunnists 
and fishermen. 

Having acquired some little knowledge of the outfit 
necessary for a trip to the south-west coast, we would 
advise those Avho intend visiting the region to lay in 
an ample supply of the best pilot bread in New York or 
Savannah. A portion of the stock could be forwarded 
by steamer to Tampa Bay, care of Miller & Henderson, 
and a portion to Punta Rassa, to care of telegraph operator. 
In a former communication, I stated that the steamer 



SUGGE5T10XS TO TOURISTS. 341 

Emilie, of Roberts' line, carried the mail between Cedar 
Keys and Key West, touching at Tampa, Manatee, and 
Punta Eassa ; but since that was written, the government 
has made a change, and the service is performed by a 
steamer belonging to Captain McKay, of Tampa. Sports- 
men will find the captain a jolly, companionable, courteous 
and obliging Scotsman — one who is ever ready to convey 
'information or confer a favor. 

In a former number we referred to our outfit for the 
expedition, and have but a few suggestions to make. We 
would recommend sportsmen to provide themselves with 
a harpoon and grains, as these would be found useful in the 
cai^ture of fin-fish and tarpum ; and if more noble game 
would prove desirable, the aspirant for sporting fame 
may fasten to a large shark or devil-fish, and, to say the 
least, enjoy a tow. We frequently experienced the want 
of" a light skiff ; and can assure the sportsmen that one 
would be found very convenient. A large frying-pan, 
with a long handle, would be found very useful for fire 
hunting. In a recent issue of the '' Forest and Stream," 
we noticed an advertisement of a lamp and reflector for 
night hunting, and from the description, have reason 
to believe that it might prove useful — or at least, we 
would like to give one a thorough practical test. Ammu- 
nition and fishing-tackle of good quality cannot be pur- 
chased at any point on the coast, and we would advise 
sportsmen to supply themselves with a suitable outfit. 
In this connection Ave cannot refrain from i-eferring to 
the fact that our fishing rods and tackle were supplied 
by Shipley & Son, of 503 Commerce street, Philadelphia ; 
and gun, rifle, and ammunition by Wilham Wurfflein, 
208 South Second street, of the same city. The ] rices 
were moderate and quality proved to be in every way 



348 SOUTH-WEST FLORIDA. 

satisfactory ; and from experience we can honestly rec- 
ommend the^e parties to the notice of sportsmen. 

A man Friday would be found very useful, and we 
would advise sportsmen to secure the services of a com- 
petent one. Any quantity of pilots and sailing-masters 
can be engaged on the south-west coast ; but nearly 
all of them have a weakness — that of raising the 
little finger too high and too often. If any party of 
sportsmen should conclude to follow in my wake, I would 
advise them to secure the services of Henry Austin, of 
Beverly, New Jersey, who accompanied me on my trip ; 
who is well posted as regards the difficulties of the navi- 
gation, and the best points for sporting. He is temper- 
ate, willing, industrious, and obliging ; a good shot, a fair 
cook, and perfectly at home in a boat. He is in posses- 
sion of a valuable amount of information regarding 
places visited, and would be found very useful as a guide 
and sailing-master. We unhesitatingly recommend him, 
and feel assured that if he should be engaged by any 
party that his services would be found valuable. 

In concluding our brief notes of a sportsman's para- 
dise, we may remark, that we have endeavored to be 
practical, and confine ourselves to data that would interest 
sportsmen; and if the end has been attained it will 
gratify 

"Al Fresco." 



V^ Ko. 1 Ci^RTLANDT STREET, ^^ 



NE^W^ YOKK. 



IiUpof tef of Gi;un^, &d. 



Agent for the celebrated Far-Killing Prize Guns of W. W. Greener. 
Has also in stock, or to order, a good assortment of Guns by W. & 
C. Scott & Son, and other makers. Also sole New York agent for 
Holabird's Shooting and Fishing Suits. 

TOURISTS SUPPLIED WITH COMPLETE OUTFITS 
AT REASOJ^'ABLE PRICES. 

L. H. Abbet. C. F. Imbrik. Andrew Clerk, Special. 

ABBEY & IMBRIE, 

Successors to Andrew Clerk & Co., 
NJEW YORK, LOIS^DON" .A-ND REIDDITCH, 

Importers, Manufacturers, Wholesale and Retail Dealers in 

.^ OF EVERY DESCRIPTION AND QUALITY, 

48 3IAIDEN LANE and 35 LIBERTY STREET, 

P. O. Box 1294. NEW YORK. 

We particiilarly call attention to our extensive assortment of fine eoods for sports- 
men; such as Salmon, Trout, and Black Bass Flies and J^nell Hooks, on^hand and tied to 
order; Cuttyhunk and Pasque Island Bass Line>j. Water-Proof Braided Silk Lines, etc., etc. 

Every genuine H. L. Leonard's Six-Spliced Bamboo Salmon, Trout and Bass 
Rod is marked '"H, L. Leonard, maker, Abbey & Imbrie, sole agents." Beware of imita- 
tions. 

Sole agents for the McCord Patent Celluloid Black Bass Reel, and Aiken Black Bai-s 
Rod. 

Proprietors of tbe celebrated Winchester Patent Braided Rods. 

Sole Importers of Joseph Warrin's Drill-Eyed and Egg-Eyed Needles. 

Parties fitted out with appropriate tackle for the Rocky Mountains, Pacific Coast, 
Canada, Maine, Adirondacks, etc., etc. 

Orders received by mail will receive the peisonal attention of the firm. 



J 







2 m 



i mm 



mm$'-'imi 



o 









o 

c 



^^. 






C^^-i 



OS 

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'5) 






a s o 









BARTON, ALEXANDER & WALLER, " 

IMPORTERS AND DEALERS IN 

(ili|i3, hebi Clitlery, llgMpg jscHe, etc, etc. 

Breecli Loaders of the Prominent Manufacturers, Split 

Bamboo and otlier Fine Fishing Rods, Lines, 

Reels, Hooivs, Artificial Flies, and 

EVERY ARTICLE REQUISITE FOR SPORTING PURPOSES, 

lOI and 103 Duane €*t., Hew York. 
Manufacturer s of United S tates Arms Co. Repeating Pistols, etc. 

•gALLOCK's Wishing |ourist. 

A Complete Guide for Trout and Salmon Anglers. By 
Charles HaUock, editor of Forest and Stream. Cloth, $2,00- 

It contains information relative to every salmon and trout region in America. It is 
the fruit of the author's own wandering?, and is replete with his adventures aid ex" 
periences. Written in a clear, unafiected, hearty style, it glows with the enthusiasm of 
a genuine sportsman, and will appeal strongly to the sympathies of every member of the 
craft.— J?0(0/i Journal. 

This \i} altogether the most comprehensive guide book which has ever been published 
for the especial benefit of Anglers. It takes the reader to all the game waters on the con- 
tinent, and communicates, in every ca^e, just the information desired by those who may 
be in search ol new fields for aport.— Albany Evening Journal. 



HARPER &, BROTHERS, Publishers. 

For Sale by Forest & Stream Publishing Company, 17 
Chatham St., and sent by mail, postage prepaid, on receipt of price. 

MAGNOLIA H"OTj"SE~ 

St. Augastine, Fla. 

W. W. PALMER, - - Proprietor. 

This house is one of the most popular and well appointed in 
the State. Its proprietor will be favorably remembered by the 
patrons of the Metropolitan Hotel, at Long Branch, last Summer. 

PRINTER AND STEREOTYPEa 

20 NOKTK WILLIAOT STREET, New York. 



Winchester Repeating Rifle 

MODEL 1873. 

W© BmtBF S &p&Ftsmm's Pmmlta 




This Gun is now the leading Sporting Rifle in the country, and 
is pre-eminently adapted to all the wants of the hunter or marks- 
man, amateur or professional. 

Its leading qualities are lightness, combined with strength and 
durability, efficiency, accuracy, and unparalleled rapidity of fire. 



Jacksonville, Fla., Nov. 6, 1875. 
Winchester Repeating Arms Co. : 

I have been hunting with one of your Rifles in this State for the last month. 
This gun was borrowed, and I could not buy It ; yet, I could have sold it many 
times. 

I wish you to send me two— one for myself, and one for a friend. 

With the gun I have, I have shot more deer and game than any other of our 
party, and made the best target shooting. 

^ ^' ^ s FRANK B. KNAPP. 

Extracts from Letters. 

''All that is claimed for it.'''' 

*' The 7iunter\<i true companion.''^ 

" The Ac Plus Ultra Sportiyig Gun.'''' 

" Extremely accurate ; cannot be better.'''' 

"■For rapidity, cannot be approacJied.^^ 

" TIndonbtedly tie finest gun in the world.'''' 

" A hard shooter, center shooter and beautiful gun.'''* 

" The best Repeating Rijle, now made, in the world.''^ 

" The best rifle now in use for hunting and sporting.''^ 

'■'■lam satisfied that the gun is the perfection of fire-arms.'''' 

" Will kill deer as far as a man can cover t' with open sights.''^ 

"■ Is sure fire and its killing qualities all that can be desired.^'' 

" In conpetition with guns of other makers has given p>erfect satisfaction.''^ 

" The most perfect of all breech-loaders for all practical at^d sporting purposes.''^ 

For illustrated pamphlet and price list, address 

Wiuchester Repciitiiij? Arms Co., 

NE\¥ HAVEN, CONN. 



TlIK 



^r^^W 



Unequalled for House or Camp Use. 

This Pipe supplies a Avant which Smokers liave long felt. It ia 
of Briar Wood, to which a S'em made of pure rag Paper is so at- 
tached, as to prevent the bowl from accumulating rank liquid, or 
giving off any unpleasant taste or order. The bowl and mouth- 
piece may be used indefinitely, and the stcn may be changed as 
often as desired. 

Extra Stems — long and short — accompany each pipe. 

The price of Stems, when not furnished with the Pipe, is as fol- 
lows: — 4 1-3 and 7 inch, 5 cents each; 12 inch, 15 cents each. 

Sold by Pipe and Cigar Dealers generally. A complete sample 
sent by mail for $1.00, by 

J. H. HUBBARD, Selling Agent, 
Cambridge, Mass, 



n0UI>KEN»S P ATE>T COMBLNATION 

aok and Fishing Lamp, 

HUNTING 

SUPPORT 

For NIGHT HUXTING Deer and 
other animals, SPEARING FISH. 
I. Indispensable on any Boating, Yacht- 
ing, or Camping Trip 
By the use of ihe support, the light is 
under tlie perfect control of the wearer, 
and leaves head and arms entirely free. 
iNot all'ected by Whid, Bain or Jolfing. 
Euri3S Iferosene safely without a chimney. 

Throws a powerful light 200 jeet ahead. As a DASH LAM P ibr CAR 
RIAGES it has no equal. Fits on any shaped dash or ou any vehicle. 








Fiih 




^, 



^^m^^^^jM 



M 



PRICE. 

Jack and Dash, 3 Attaclinients, 
Fi^sliing Lamp, Jack and Dasli, 
Supports, eacli, .... 



$6.00 
8.00 
3.00 



Sent C. O. D., with privilege of examination. 



^ack and Dasf Lamp 



White Manufacturing Co., Bridgeport, Ct. 

A liberal discount to dealers. Send for Circular. 



THE G R E A T S O VT HERN 

Freight & Passenger Line, 

TO ALL POINTS 

In the South & South- West, & Florida Ports. 



The Following Magnificent Side- wheel Steamships 

SA5L TRI-WEEKLY, AT 3 P. M., 

EVERY TUESDAY, THURSDAY AND SATURDAY, 

FROM PIER 29 NORTH RIVER. 



CHAMPION, 

Capt. R. W. Lockwood. 

MANHAMAN, 

Capt. M. S. VVoodhull. 



CHARLESTON, StiUTH CAROLINA, 



Capt. Jas. Berry. 

JAS. ADGEIi, 

Capt. J. T. Lockwood, 



Capt. J. T. Beckett. 

GEORGIA, 

Capt. S. Crowell. 



These Steamships have been handsomely fitted up for the convenience of passengers, 
and are unrivalled on the Coast for safety, speed, and comfort. They have large carrying 
capacity, and injure at tbe lowest rates. 



I^^SSAO-K R^TES WROIS/L ISrE^V YORK, 
Including First-Class STATEROOM and MEiLS, on Steamships to Charleston, viz.i 



APA.LACHICOLA, Fla $50 00 

AUGUSTA, Ga 22 00 

BALI)v\IN,Fla 27 75 

CEDAR KEYS, Fla .32 75 

CHARLESl^ON, S. C 20 00 

ENTERPRISE, Fla 35 75 

FERNANDIN a , Fla 27 75 

GAINESVILLE, Fla 30 25 

GREEN COVE SrRlNGS, Fla 28 75 

HAVANA 50 00 



KEY WEST, Fla $50 00 

LAKE ( ITY\ Fla 30 25 

MONTICELLO. Fla 31 25 

ORANGE MILLS, Fla 30 25 

PALATKA. Fla 2':^ 75 

PENSACOLA, Fla 41 00 

PICOLATA, Fla 28 75 

QUINCY, Fla 32 50 

SAVANNAH, Ga 22 GO 

ST. AUGUSTINE, Fla 31 75 



HIBERNLA, Fla 28 75 I TALLAHASSEE, Fla 3125 

JACKSONVILLE, Fla 27 75 I TAxMPA 41 50 

Passengers have the privilege of taking either RAILROAD or STE \MBOAT from 
Charleston to the FLORIDA PORTS and »T. JOHN'S PJVER LANDINGS. 

JAMES W. QUIMAI^I) & CO., A-e!i!s, 

NOi 177 WEST ST., cor. of Warren, New York. 
JAMES ADGER & CO., Agents New York and Charleston Steamtship Company, and 
WM*^A^ COURTNEY ^"^" ^^ \ ^8^°*^ N-'^'- ^ So. Car. Steamship Co., Charleston, S. C. 

To avoid delays, mark all goods — "Care of So. Ca. R.R. Agentj 

Cliarle^ton, S. C." 

Florida Freisltt, ^<Care of Raveuel &. Co., Cliarleston, S. C.*> 




^^1 




A Weekly Journal (of Sixteen Pages), 



DEVOTED TO 



Practical Natui^al History, 

Fish Culture, Protection of Game, Preservation of Forests^ 

YACHTING, BOATING, 

AND ALL 

IT IS THE OFFICIAL ORGAN OF THE 

AMERICAN FISH CULTUKISTS' ASSOCIATION. 

^I)e foxtBt anh Stream 

Is the only Journal published in this country that fully supplies the wants and 
meets the necessities of the 

Gentleman Sportsman. 

Send for Specimen Copv. Termrf ?5.00 a vear. Address Forect and Stream 
Publisliiug €o., n Chatham St. (City Hall Square). New York. Post Office Box '<>S32. 



THE UF-TOWN SPORTSUKi\'S DEPOT. 

CHAS. L. RITZMANN & CO., 
943 BROADWAY, (above 22d St,) Factory, I I 4 Centre St. 



IMPORTERS AXD MANUFACTURERS OF 



Guns, Rifles, Pistols, Fishing Tackle. 

Remington Rifles and Shot Guns, Holahird Shootii^g Suits, Cartridge Vest, Belts 
and Pouches. Implements for b^nh muzzle and hreech-loadiug gui:s. 

SPOR'l'SMEN'S GOODS AND AMMUNITION Oi^' ALL KINDS. 

We take muzzle loaders i:.' exchange for breech-loaderf, aud have always some fine 
secoiid-haud gans on hand, clieap. 

Goods s'^nt 0. O' D. to all parts of the United States. 

Ivory and Pearl Stocks put on Pistols. Repaiiin» of all kinds artistically executed. 

Cartridges for Breech-loading Shot Guns, ready loaded, put up in boxes ot fifty or 
loaded to order. 







a 
> 

(0 

m 


H 

o 

« 

■-I 

04 



JOHN'SCN SQUARE, 

Savannah., Ga. 

Facing South, with a Frontage of 273 Feet. 

S. N. PAPO T & CO., Proprietors. 

This well-known Hotel, which has always been considered tho 
leading Hotel in Savannah, and one of the best in the South, is 
pleasantly located in the central portion of the city, on Johnson 
Square, with a Southern front, which is a matter of no small im- 
portance in this climate. In consequence of the death of the late 
proprietor, Major W. H. Wiltbergsr, the Hotel has fallen into the 
hands of Messrs. S. N. Papot & Co., and now the new proprietors 
have made many changes and improvements. The whole house 
has been thoroughly painted, inside and out, and otherwise reno- 
vated, and such alterations have been made in the interior ar- 
rangements as must add to its attractions and conduce to the 
comfort of the guests. 

At this hotel every convenience is offered to the traveling public 
in the way of Ticket Office for the Railroads and Steam- boats, 
and here, also, Sleeping-car Tickets can be procured. 

The table is furnished with the best meats, poultry, and game 
to be procured in the Boston, New York, and Baltimore markets, 
and our corps of cooks is unsurpa-ssed by any in the country. If 
kind and courteous treatment, with comfortable rooms, which can- 
not be excelled, offer any inducements to our friends going South, 
either for health or jDleasure, we think we can safely recommend 
them to patronize the Pulaski during their sojourn in Savannah. 

WHIT NE Y^" 

"Florida Pathfinder." 

A Pocket Guide to Florida, for Invalids and Tourists, giving late 
and reliable information of the various routes — land and water — 
with Maps, Hotels on the route of travel. Hotels and Points of 
Interest in Florida. The " Pathfinder" is circula-ted among actual 
Florida Tourists in New York, Boston, and Philadeipbia. It hav- 
ing a larger circulation than any similar publication, its useful- 
ness as an adv^ertising medium is apparent. 



THE 

AZARB PoiTirBESR Co.^ 

MANUTACTUREKS OF 
FOK 

SPORTING, RIFLE, AND TARGET USE. 



Hazard's Electric" Powder- 

Nos. 1 (fiue) to 5 (coarss). Unsurpassed in point of strength and cleanliness. 
Packed in square canisters of 1 lb. ovU^. 

Hazard's "American Sporting." 

Nos. 1 (fine) to 3 (coarse). In 1 lb. canisters and 6i lb. kegs. A fine grain, quick 
and clean, for ujDland and prairie shooting. Well adapted to shot-guns. 

Hazard's " Ducic Shooting." 

Nos. 1 (fine) to 5 (coarse). In 1 and 5 lb. canisters, and 6} and V2k lb. kegs. Burns 

slowJy and very clean, shooting .remarkably close, and with great penetration. 

For field, forest, or water shooting, it lanks any other brand, and it is 

11^" equally serviceable for muzzle or breech-loader. „^3 

Hazard's *' Kentucky Rifle." 

FFFG, FFG, and " Sea Shooting" FG, in kegs of 25, 13i and Gi lbs. and cans of 

5 lbs. FI'FG is packed in 1 and ilb. canisters. Burns strong and moist. The 

FFFG and FFG are favorite brands for ordinary sporting and for 

Rifle Shooting. 

The special powder for this purpose, whether for muzzle or breech loaders, Is 
the "Kentucky Rifle Powder " FG and FFG. This powder is now made up to an 
invariable standard, burns strong, leaving a moist, though inconsiderable residu- 
um ; and for muzzle-loaders, in using a dry wad, the ball is easily rammed 
home. The FG and FFG are used by the majority of sportsmen and sharpshoot- 
ers. When metallic shells are used of a fixed size, for ordinary use, along range 
may be obtained, when lequired, by the use of Electric No. 4 "in the same shell ; 
but for an invariable result with suitable shells, hand and eye being true, no 
more satisfactory poij'der can be found than the FG Kentucky Rifle — the identi- 
cal brand used at both tlie great International matches. 

j;^" Their Ions; experience in the preparation of Gunpowder for Cartridges enitable 
for the diflerent Sporting and Governvnent arms, and for the various ranges which have 
now become usual amon^ experts, ensures to such as load their own cartridges, the 
certainty of securing the oe^t ammunition for their special use. 

®Ifi;c©, %^ Wall Sit ©®t, Hew ¥otfc 

THOS. S. POPE, Sec'y. A. K. DOUGL.ASS, Pr«*'t. 



THE MAGNOLIA HOTEL, 



ST. AUGUSTINE, FLA, 




"W". "W. r^almer. 



^Proprietor. 



This favorite house will open for the approaching winter season, 
November 1st. 

The "Magnolia'' is located on St. George Street — thq Fifth Ave. 
of St. Augustine — it stands upon the highest ground in the city, 
and commands a fine view of the ocean. 

Single rooms and family apartments en suite. The cuisine is in 
every respect unexceptional. 

GRAND NATIONAL HOTEL, 

JACKSONVILLE, Florida. 

GEORGE McGINLY, _ _ _ . Proprietor. 

<^4..00 TB'Jl DAT. 

This elegant and commodious Brick House of modern structure and furniiJhed with 
elegant furniture, is situated within two hundred yards of the Kailroad Depot, and is uu- 
Burpassed by any hotel in the South. 



/ 

CONROY, BISSETT & M/VLLESON, 

65 Fulton Street, JVew York, 

IMPORTERS AND MANUFACTURERS OF 

PIBB BmKS & FlBMim WAmS^B, 

TRADE ^ MARK. 



The attention of amateurs is particularly called to their stock of 

LINKS 



Of all varieties : Silk, Grass, Watbr-pboop, 
Flax, and Cotton. 

ALL DESCRIPTIONS OP 

FLIES, SNEL.LS, HOOKS, 
NETS, BOOKS, &c., <& c . 



RODS. 

Split Bamboo, Fly and Salmom. 

Ash and Lancewood do. do. 

The famed " McOinniss " Black Bass, and 
all other varieties. 

KEELS. 
For Salmon. Trout, Black Bass, Striped 
Bass. &c., in Rubber, German Silver, andi 
Brass. ! gW° FLIES of any pattern, tied to order. 

Parties fitted out for the Adirondacks. the Maine Woods, Lake Superior, Newport 
Cutthyunk. Pasque Island, West Island, &c., &c. 

|W° Orders by mail will receive careful and prompt attention. 

BELMOISTTYLE OIL. 

PREVENTS RUST OR TARNISH 

On Guns and all other Polished Goods. Every man who owns a gun shonld 
have a bottle of it. Send for circular. 

H. B. RIGGS, 150 Front Street, New York. 

}^° FOR SALE BY ALL GUN DEALERS. 

MOUNTED 

Game, Birds, and Mammals 

AL.SO, SPECIIUEIVS OF NATURAL HISTORY. 

The subscriber has on hand a larjje collection of Specimens of Natural History, con 
sisting of Mammals and Birds, Nests. Eggs, Reptiles, Insects, Crustaceans, etc., which 
are now offered for sale at reasonable prices. Complete collections of well identified and 
authenticated s;-ecimen>i (mounted or unmounted) of the above, furnished for Schools, 
Colleges, Public Institutions, and private individuals at extremely low prices. 

Special attention given to mounting Game. Mammalrf, and Birds, in life-like attitudes. 

Also, for sale, all works on Natural History as low, if not lower, than they can be pur- 
chased elsewhere. 

Please send btamp for catalogue, and state where you saw this advertisement. 
Address, 
Box 82. C. J, mAYNARD, Ipswicb, Essex Co., nTaM. 



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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




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